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GHK GBB AKS74U Review


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russmilitary has russian aksu handguards from time to time (you just need to keep an eye out to see when they've got stock)

 

http://www.rusmilitary.com/html/c-deact_furniture.htm Around 50 quid plus postage

 

if you can get someone stateside to source and send them over then theres always bulgarian ones from K-VAR (however Im not sure if their current ones are as close a match to russian ones as they used to be - they diont look like a partcularly laminated construction these days and the bulgarian colour was never close to the russian finish - more brown than red)

 

http://www.k-var.com/shop/home.php?cat=296...on=0&page=3

 

around 60 plus postage plus shipping from whover buys them stateside to you

 

personally if I were yuo I'd just keep a look out for next time rusmil have any in stock

 

 

 

 

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I'm propably ordering this awesome gun this week! I was wondering if there are different version of this gun on the market (have they done any updates on it after the release)?. WGC is out of stock on the gun and magazines so I'm planning to order it from Uncompany.

 

Many people seem to have reported problems and parts braking. Would it be wise to order aluminium/steel replacement parts beforehand? What are the parts that are most likely to brake?

 

Does anyone have experience with the CO2 magazines?

Edited by altekh
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I'm propably ordering this awesome gun this week! I was wondering if there are different version of this gun on the market (have they done any updates on it after the release)?. WGC is out of stock on the gun and magazines so I'm planning to order it from Uncompany.

 

Many people seem to have reported problems and parts braking. Would it be wise to order aluminium/steel replacement parts beforehand? What are the parts that are most likely to brake?

 

Does anyone have experience with the CO2 magazines?

buddy of mine is selling 8x mags for 40$ a piece

shoot me a pm if youre interested =)

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justin over at daytona gun has:

 

all the firecontrol parts available in steel - hammer, trigger, trigger hook, hammer sear, valve knocker, selector

bolt carrier in steel

CNC'd hop up unit (anodized black)

CNC'd standard type bolt

 

Ra-tech have:

 

bolt carier in steel

CNC'd hop unit (plain silver)

CNCd adjustable NPAS bolt

 

GHK mags are available green gas and CO2 caplet versions

 

tightbore barrel? pick whatever you want - all the hop units (GHK RATech and Daytonagun) all take standard AEG barrels.

 

about the only parts you CANT get third party are:

 

recoil spring guide rod and cover latch

the various springs

the firecontrol pins

the little diddly bits for the hop unit (actuating lever, adjustment barrel, inner barrel clip)

pistol grip mounting block

rubber bolt carier buffer

 

which is actually a wee bit annoying - cos anyone wanting to do an all steel ground up build is stuck buying an entire GHK kit for those parts (or fishing around to see if they can snag those GHK parts individually from RA-Tech etc)

Edited by snorkelman
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grab the steel bolt carrier, adjustable npas bolt, CNC'd hop unit and steel selector paddle and it should be good to go - around 300 dollars of upgrades onto whats currently a 350 dollar gun.

 

if you wanted to go whole hog then full gun with all the parts would work out around 770

 

however 350 of that is price of the gun and dBoys are bringing there version out which might knock a chunk off the total

 

 

 

 

 

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Problem MK II. The gun is now shooting auto in the 'Safety' position. Can anyone help?

 

Sorry to revive this topic...

 

I have the same problem: GHK AKS74U fires full auto when safety is set to... safe.

 

I found out that the selector-lever has a cut-out profile that fits the internal selector-safety-"thing".

 

But the combination of the lever and the "thing", when the cutout on the lever fits nicely, is not OK. The "thing" (internal safety-selector-part) is not completely vertical but points to the fron of the gun a bit.

 

When thz "thing" could be vertical I think the selector and safety would work.

 

But, as the cut-out is there and so is the shape of the "thing" I can't get these parts fixed.

 

Anyone been there done that and has a working fix?

 

(Sorry about me calling it the "thing", but there was no manual and no exploded view with part-names or -numbers with my gun. Anyone has a manual / exploded view that could be shared?

 

But the most urgent is the selector / safety not working.

 

I hope someone will have a fix.

 

Thanks in advance.

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in safe all that matters is that the internal paddle of the selector prevents the two rear fingers of the main trigger part from moving - that stops the trigger pivoting far enough for the hammer to be released from the front trigger hooks

 

the rear trigger hook (the sprung loaded part at rear of the trigger) comes into play in auto and semi

 

in auto the selector paddle moves backwards far enough to clear the rear legs of the trigger, allowing the trigger to pivot and disengage the front hooks from the hammer, while maintaining pressure on the rear trigger hook finger so that part remains clear of the hammer

 

in semi the paddle is clear of both the trigger fingers and the rear hook finger so that when the trigger is pulled and held back the hammer gets temporarily caught by the rear trigger hook - when trigger is released the rear hook lets go of the hammer and the hammer is caught by the front hooks

 

the paddle is angled forwards from vertical, but by sounds of it theres enough play on yours to allow the trigger to tilt forward enough to release the hammer from the front hooks. most likely causes that spring to mind would be:

 

that the inner paddle isnt far enough down into the receiver eg the big 'e'-clip that holds it against right hand side of the receiver might not be seated properly in its groove, OR the small axis shaft that fits into left hand side of the receiver isnt located in its hole

 

other alternative is that the paddle is fractured at its mounting point (ie where its threaded for the outer selector lever screw to screw into it) and is just yeilding to pressure of the trigger being pulled

 

or its somehow got bent (though the cast material the paddle is made from is more likely to fracture than bend)

 

 

 

 

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If the steel selector plate is out of position, you can put it back into position by holding the paddle in place with a large flat-headed screwdriver, then rotating the selector arm in the appropriate direction to adjust the threaded part of the arm.

 

I have finally upgraded my AKSU with the RA Tech steel bolt carrier, aluminium hop unit and aluminium NPAS bolt. I am hoping it should be fairly indestructable now but I will try and skirmish next weekend and will let you know how I get on :)

 

All the RA Tech parts are top quality but the bolt carrier is kind of expensive (I think it was about 90 quid inc. shipping :()

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I just bought a used GHK AK74U with a tightbore barrel in it. I'll be ordering the complete NPAS bolt and aluminium hop up unit tonight.

 

I was going to order a few CO2 magazines, but I have yet to hear if they are actually worth it or not! Do they work at a lower temperature? Do you get less cooldown, or more shots per magazine? Why would I get a green gas mag over CO2?

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If the steel selector plate is out of position, you can put it back into position by holding the paddle in place with a large flat-headed screwdriver, then rotating the selector arm in the appropriate direction to adjust the threaded part of the arm.

....

 

I don't think that plate is "out of position'.

There is a cut-out form in the selector-lever which fits the threaded end of the plate. Those 2 parts can only fit in one position. And the position this assembly is in seems not to be OK in my gun.

 

Or do you change relative position of those 2 parts without them exactly fitting the 'cut out' (I hope you understand what I'm trying to tell)?

 

P.S. Seems your gun is rather 'very OK' ;-)

 

Where did you buy the Ra-Tech parts?

 

 

Thanks for the reply!

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checked the brass sleeve hasnt slipped on the trigger pin? - it should go thru left hand side of trigger and thru the spring loaded rear trigger hook, if its slipped out of place then trigger may not be sitting straight in the pin and be tilting downwards slightly on the right hand side - might give you enough free movement to release front trigger hook from the hammer

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