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I did a mini review on another site. I've just ordered the extra shells since thier release yesterday. I'll post a few quick comments until I can really sit and write a review. Build quality is superb. Wood furniture, metal mag tube, trigger, hammer, heat shield, bayonet lug. The receiver and barrel are heavyweight plastic. The shells fire three bbs at a time, but they all use the same barrel. Very solid feeling, no wobble or rattles except the sling hooks. It took a few cycles to smooth the action but now it operates fine. The shells are on the delicate side so I wouldn't eject them onto concrete. I dropped a loaded, gassed shell and it shot off the plastic piece with the o-ring that holds the bbs in place. By a stroke of luck I found the piece on the other side of the yard the next day. It's probably as skirmish-able as any other gas, shell-ejecting, shotgun. I ordered a shell catcher as well, it may not fit due to the design, but maybe I can work with it. I haven't tested it's range or power yet, but it does take green gas.

Edited by Duke Togo
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Ok, at lunch time I went home and did a quick poor-man's chrono. I followed the method the best I could remember. I used green gas and 134 with .2 Airsoft Elite bbs. The temperature outside is 85?F (California in November) :P . One note first, the shells can only be loaded with three bbs, any less and they roll back breaking the seal against the o-ring. I fired at the first can from 5" away. The power from the gas blows the can about 6 feet back and the bbs went cleanly through both sides of the can. I then went for the bottom, following the above conditions. It made a deep dent with a faint hole. No penetration but close. The next up was the top of the can. It made a dent but not as much as the bottom. After this I tried 134 just to see what it was meant to do "stock". It made a dent in the side, but not much more. I didn't bother with the top and bottom after that. I may have not filled enough 134 into the shell, since my can is quirky sometimes. So the results are in and I'd venture to say that the gun fires about 400 fps with green gas. I went back and read the poormans chrono and it looks like I was a few inches farther than what it calls for. So I bumped up the fps by 10%. I've included pics of the cans. Next time I'll try to test the range, but my yard's not very big.

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Someone asked if the gun is worth the money. That question is always subjective. What's worth $300 to one person isn't worth $200 to another. Just as $300 is one person's weekly wage where it may be pocket change to someone else. I'll preface my answer with a short bio. I rarely skirmish, I make a decent living but I'm not rich by any means, I've been a gun freak since pre-school. I love older and unique guns opposed to the XM8 and shrikes of the world. Of the dozen or so guns I own, two of them are aegs, the rest are classics and/or gbb. To me the gun was worth it. I would have liked it to be less, but I respect the fact that this gun is essentially unchanged since it's original release over ten years ago, the original selling easily for twice the price of this one. Would I use it as a primary weapon? No, I'd rather use a pistol or smg for cqb. As a field gun I'd rather use a lmg or long gun. At best it would be a backup gun for my Thompson. It's mainly a showpiece that will hang over the fireplace that may get used once in a while.

Edited by Duke Togo
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the rear stock was the easiest to modify. the top portion where it meets with the receiver, I sanded it down a few milimeters for a good fit. The fore end however, required the GP front end and a little guessing. The stock magazine tube isn't long enough to fully stroke a full length fore end. You could extened the magazine tube by about 1.5 inches, for an estimated total of 11 inches, but then you'd also have to deal with the barrel being shorter as well.

 

Since the GP front end kit came with a synthetic fore end, it was easy to determine where I need to dremel. both the wood and synthetic fore end are similary in dementions.

 

When my winter break arrives, I may have time to write up a DIY for it. It's reletively simply and doesnt compare to what other have been doing (that shorty was just awesome), but I don't see a lot of examples or picture when I was first researching the topic. I found one, but that took me awhile.

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Finally I got round to photographing some of my toys!

 

From the left going clockwise (-ish);

 

TM SPAS 12

Marushin M500 Shorty

TM Benelli M3

Marushin M1887 `Guards Gun`

Maruzen M870

Marushin M500 Mariner

Maruzen CA870

 

_shotguns.jpg

 

The Marushin range of shotguns rules as far as I'm concerned (in case you couldn't tell :D ) I'm just dreading the day when the M500s inevitably break (apparently it's inevitable :( ) so I may have to get another M500 shorty, just in case.

 

Just an M1100 and a Tanaka Tench Gun left and that's the full set!

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I'm just dreading the day when the M500s inevitably break (apparently it's inevitable :( ) so I may have to get another M500 shorty, just in case.

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...HOTGUN01_srch_1

 

Apparently this is the part that fails usually. (From what I've read on this forum) I'm guessing it's not gonna fail again if you install these steel bits :)

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