Jump to content
junior

Shotgun Picture Thread

Recommended Posts

i dont know about the maruzen, but on the ACM gas pump shotty, there is a slide lock button, which when cocked, stops you cocking it again until youve pulled the trigger.

 

im guessing your button is a similar affair, and sounds like something has worn or broken inside. maybe if you pull it apart, it will become apparent. it shouldnt need gas to use the loading mech, they just use the gas to fire iirc.

 

unless the gas operates this button/pump-locking mech by tying into the trigger mech?

 

again, sorry i cant help you directly, but this may shed some light on the matter!

 

cheers,

 

shmook

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet jebus that's a lot of shells Shmook! :o

 

How are those M1100s treating you? Had to make a custom brass extractor to stop the stovepiping for either of them yet?

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ha, i know! wont be keeping all of those bad boys though...

 

as for the extractor, the 1100 i just got has issues with this, so am going to make a new one from brass hopefully tomorrow, when i swap the receivers... it seems to have had a lot of use. my first doesnt get used much, so its almost like new. i might just fab 2 up though, and do them both while i have them in bits.

 

anywho, no promises, but i will take pics when i start, and stick them up here.

 

cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good plan!

 

I've had a few M1100s but ended up selling them after they started stovepiping shells since I unfortunately lack the tools to make a new brass extractor. If I could find someone that could make a new extractor and drill and tap the holes for it I'd certainly consider getting another M1100 though. Really fun guns with decent range, just a pity they made the extractor out of such weak pot metal.

 

I'll be really curious to see how your extractor making process goes, so please do keep us updated! ^_^

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

will do!

 

tell you what, if i get it right and working, i will knock a few up for people here, how does that sound? no promises i can get it right, but i will endeavour, as i dont want a pricey, rare-bodied wall hanger!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can someone please disassemble their Maruzen 870 and take pictures of the trigger mech? I got mine apart, but I don't have any references as to what it should look like. I would really appreciate it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

again, may not be much help, but got one of my m1100's in bits in front of me as i type. i can put a pic or 2 up if you want, im guessing they have similar trigger mechs...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not my picture, but the best pic I could find of the Maruzen M870 trigger mechanism...

 

CIMG0501.jpg

 

Probably not much help though, since your problem is likely on the other side of the trigger mech.

The Maruzen M870 trigger mech looks pretty darn similar to the real Remington 870's, and while I'm not too familiar with the Maruzen M870's trigger mech I am somewhat familiar with the real 870's mech so hopefully this advice will apply.

 

On a real Remington 870 the problem would likely be with a small plunger that sits behind the hammer or the action bar lock itself.

Normally when you pull the trigger and the hammer drops forward there is a small plunger behind the base of the hammer that raises up to press against a piece of the action bar lock, then the rear section of the action bar lock raises up and engages the hammer sear while the front section of the action bar lock (that actually presses against the action bars to hold them in place when the action bars are cycled all the way forward) will drop down out of the way of the action bars.

 

 

Here's some pictures for reference...

 

 

ActionBarLock1b.jpg

 

ActionBarLock2b.jpg

 

ActionBarLock3b.jpg

 

 

Mind you this is for the real Remington 870, but the Maruzen shell ejecting replica does seem to have a very similar trigger mechanism so hopefully this helps!

Edited by Jin15

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a question for any Maruzen 870 shell-ejector owners.

I recently purchased a broken 870 (I knew it was when I paid). Aside from the normal gas leak, there seems to be something up with the pump. It can load shells just fine from the magazine tube into the chamber, but to rack the pump, I have to push on the button in front of the trigger guard (forgot the name). Even when there are shells in the chamber and the trigger has been depressed, I still have to push this button/lever to unlock the slide. Any help on this? It doesn't need to have gas for this to work, does it?

 

This has happend to me a couple of times, pull out the trigger mech, one of the prongs of the hammer spring should be resting in a groove on the hammer. Sometimes it pops out creating the problem you described. There may be something else wrong but give that a try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got that pistol grip stock I was talkin' about getting for my Mossy!

Got it set up just the way I want it now :D

 

JinsMossy1.jpg

 

JinsMossy2.jpg

 

JinsMossy3.jpg

 

 

ACM 6mm M500

- Surefire 623FA Flashlight Forend

- Mossberg 500/590 Factory Blued Steel Heat Shield

- Knoxx SpecOps NRS Stock

- Hogue HandAll Grip Sleeve

- Private Parts Steel Action Bars

- Front Sight Post Painted Red

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet setup Jin!

 

I run the Knoxx SpecOps on my RS M590, it's a wonderful unit.

 

I really dig the Surefire setup you've got, I may need to invest in one for my RS.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Vicious! :D

 

I sure like the way mine turned out. I went through much deliberation over what kind of stock to put on it, and I probably could have picked a prettier better looking stock but when I tried out a Knoxx stock on a real steel Mossberg I just liked the way it felt and it's adjustment options a lot more than anything else I tried. So perhaps not the best looking, but certainly the best handling for my my body size and it feels extremely high quality and durable. The 5 LOP adjustment options are quite nice and the price was very reasonable too.

 

The Surefire forend... well, it's just awesome :lol: If you look around on eBay you can find them for about $215 shipped new in box, which is quite a good price for the quality of the unit. It does add quite a bit of weight to the front end but you get used to it quickly after a little practice. The pistol grip on the stock helps you balance out the front end weight as well. I'd definitely recommend the Surefire 623FA for any real steel or airsoft Mossberg 500, it's a wonderful bit of kit.

I'm considering getting a Malkoff M60 MC-E drop in lamp for mine. The price is a bit steep at $125 but the thing should last just about forever and puts out a true 500+ lumens, making the lamp just about as much of a weapon as the shotgun in a tactical scenario.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lol, I was thinking of getting a malkoff M60 MC-E too, and putting it into a 623FA too :P Emulation of the shotgun guru without even knowing it lol.

 

You have a shock isolating bezel on yours, right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LoL! Shotgun guru? You flatter me too much :P

Although... I think I am the only one to ever put real Trijicon sights and a Surefire 618FA on an airsoft single shot spring powered 870. Won't be a "guru" though until I get a gas powered shell ejecting Maruzen 870 and find a way to upgrade it to shoot 100 feet with a full load of .12s like Clarence Lai can :lol:

 

But... ahem... yes, the M60 MC-E looks like one helluva lamp. And indeed I do have the shock isolating bezel in my 623FA, so I'd need to get one of those $1 brass ring adapters to fit the lamp.

I'm really torn between the M60 MC-E and the standard M60 though. While the M60 MC-E does put out 500 lumens it's got a 20° reflector that makes the light flood so wide there's no hot spot at all. It does light up a dark room like daylight, but it's not very effective outdoors and with no hot spot at all I fear it might not be very useful as an offensive tool for temporarily blinding oppenents.

 

The standard Malkoff M60 on the other hand is less than half the price and while it does only put out 230 lumens rather than 500 it's 8° angled reflector condenses the light into a pretty tight beam that creates what is probably the single most blinding flashlight I've ever seen. Very effective as an offensive tool. But, since it has a fairly tight beam it's not going to be the greatest thing ever for room clearing (although the beam still has roughly twice the flood effect of the standard Surefire P60 bulb) and indoors it can be very easy to accidentally blind yourself with it if you look directly at a nearby wall with the beam pointing at it. On the upside though it's fantastic outdoors and gives you roughly 150 yards of visibility, and as stated before it's one helluva offensive tool.

 

 

So it's just a matter of deciding if I want (and can afford) something that will turn night to day in close quarters or if I want something that will be extremely effective as an offensive tool in any scenario and can give you massive range of visibility outdoors, but with a rather tight beam and the potential to blind yourself accidentally in close quarters.

Edited by Jin15

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW Jin, how does the ACM M500 work after you added the PPA steel cocking arms? Is it consistent FPS wise, leaky at all?

 

Think it'd be possible to replace the rear ghost ring site with a docter MRD on a very small section of rail (cut down '36 rail)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

10 months of hard use and counting on my stock arms...

 

no one handed terminator cocking though, htis will bust them up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BTW Jin, how does the ACM M500 work after you added the PPA steel cocking arms? Is it consistent FPS wise, leaky at all?

 

Think it'd be possible to replace the rear ghost ring site with a docter MRD on a very small section of rail (cut down '36 rail)?

 

My PPA action bars work great, the action feels a bit smoother now and I know I won't have to worry about them breaking. They did need to have a few small bits cut out of them to fit the ACM M500 though. You can see where they need to be cut in the 3rd picture I posted. The problem is that the cutout in the action bars near where they attach to the pump is not long enough to clear the end of the pump attachment. So you just have to take a dremel tool and a grinding disk and and lengthen the cutout a bit. No biggie really. Sounds complicated but if you install them yourself you'll quickly see what I mean about a small section needing to be removed.

 

As far as leaks go, it did have slow leaks from 3 of the 4 places gas can escape from the reservoir when I bought it new from Evike. Fortunately the shotgun came with a set of replacements for all the o-rings in the gun. After replacing a few o-rings, PTFE taping some of the threads, and giving the whole gas reservoir a good lubrication with silicone oil it's holding gas perfectly now. No leaks at all on duster gas or propane.

 

FPS isn't all that consistent, 350-400 on duster gas at room temperature and 500 to 550 on propane at room temperature when loaded with a single 0.2g BB. While that may seem like a lot of variation keep in mind that that was with a single 0.2g BB. When firing 5 BBs at once as it was meant to do you get about 300 FPS on propane and a consistent range of 90 to 110 feet with 0.2g BBs. Not too bad at all considering this gun has no hopup! The max range on duster gas drops to about 60 feet, not too sure what the FPS is but I'd imagine it's around 180 to 200.

 

 

As far as putting an optic on goes, I'm quite happy with the stock ghost ring sights but I'm sure you could put a small rail and red dot on the receiver if you wanted. There are already 2 holes drilled in the receiver for the rear sight so I'm sure you could fit some rail that could match up to those holes. A short M4 handguard rail seems like it would work pretty well. Or you could just get a rail for a real Mossberg 500 and see if it'll fit.

Edited by Jin15

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, it seems some people's will fit with zero modification and others will need a section cut out. I know T-Bone on ASB put Private Parts steel action bars on his 6mm ACM M500 with zero modification, but mine required a few bits cut out for them to even fit on the gun.

 

I'm guessing PPA has just done a few different runs of steel action bars in different sizes, so some will fit the ACM 6mm M500 with zero modification and others will require some dremel work. For reference I got mine from Airsoft GI.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, I searched the whole thread but I didnt find much info on what I was looking for...

 

I'm looking to pimp my TM M3 super 90... want to put a 1014 style stock on it with a long rail along the top of the gun, a smokeys ris pump grip with flashlight, vert grip and shell holder on the front.

 

Im just wondering, does anyone have the opportunity to compare the sliding G+P stock with the DE one? Only I read a way back in the thread that the G+P is a bit loose and rattly, so if the DE one is better I could pick the whole gun up for spares for less than the price of the G+P.

 

Also, what to people think of the RIS pump? As I was worried that using a vert grip on it might intefere with the pump action somehow?

 

If anyone could give me any advice on I'd really appreciate it :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.