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Shotgun Picture Thread

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Yeah, bore and gauge are refering to the same thing, barrel diameter. In fact, sometimes both are used together as in '12-gauge bore shotgun'.

 

A rating of guage is determined by the amount of equal diameter solid (pure) leadshot balls that can be made from exactly one pound of lead. In the case of a 12-guage shotgun, it has a 0.729" barrel diameter, because 12 leadshot balls of that equal diameter weigh 1 pound.

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The term "bore" referes to the inside diamater of the shotguns barrel.

 

The way you work out how big "bore" means you get one pound of lead and split it into equil parts numbering the same as the bore rating. For example for 12 bore you split your one pound of lead into 12 equil parts. You take your 1/12 pound of lead and roll it into a perfect ball. This ball should fit perfectly into the barrel of a 12 bore gun.

 

By this method if you have a higher number, for example 20 bore, you end up with a smaller ball. In this case it would be made of a 1/20 pound rather than 1/12 pound of lead.

Ergo higher number means smaller size.

 

Guages are allways measurements that the higher number means a smaller size.

 

 

 

 

Historically shotguns have been "bore" for many centurys, and "guage" only in certain areas of the world for the last 30-50 years.

 

You can see the bore rating go the other way to. for example a 12 pounder cannon. A 12 pounder cannon will have a bore that matches a perfect ball made from 12 pounds of lead, and the ball it uses will be that size(though a different weight if it is different material)

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Any here tried installing one of those 1J springs in a Marui shotgun?

 

I installed a 1J spring in my shotgun (picture underneath) and it works fine with no chance of breaking... but I also installed a metal spring guide and steel plate on the back of the mechbox to stop it breaking lol.

 

DSC00074.jpg

 

DSC00078.jpg

 

DSC00077.jpg

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I installed a 1J spring in my shotgun (picture underneath) and it works fine with no chance of breaking... but I also installed a metal spring guide and steel plate on the back of the mechbox to stop it breaking lol.

 

Wow that looks almost as weird as my SPAS which I recently sold on! Was sawn off right to the cage with a M6 attached.

 

Notice any massive performance difference?

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would there be a market for metal bodies for the DE/TM m3 series? if so how much would you guys be willing to pay and what would be important to you?

 

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depending on the quality of it, i can see myself paying upwards of USD130. but id rather get a SPAS12 body.

You can make your own SPAS 12 cage out of sheet metal or PVC. People do it to build prop M41A Pulse Rifles.

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would there be a market for metal bodies for the DE/TM m3 series? if so how much would you guys be willing to pay and what would be important to you?

 

What would be important:

-fit & finish

-colour

-DE design not TM, i.e. not with the glued on piece on the underside.

-trades and markings

(pretty much everything is important to make it worth while)

 

P.s. I don't know how it could work anyways since the body has to be able to flex to stretch over the inner clamshell.

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I have considered finding someone/company to make me high impact steel parts for my TM M3.

 

 

"So what bits do you want made of metal?"

"Err.... how about all of them" *starts dismanteling M3 and handing parts over*

"Can do" *thumbs up*

 

 

 

Its allways just seemed so expensive, i have never gone so far as to get a quote, but i'd imadgine it would be lots more than getting some china'soft company to make 10,000 units of (probably pot metal) full metal m3s.

Edited by ED-SKaR

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from what i have heard the Clone M3s have a habbit of breaking the piston assembly so it wont cock at all(the bits the action bars touch break)

 

I have also heard one case of a trigger breakage causing the gun to be cocked and stay that way forever, and more than a few that the spring on the piston isn't strong enough so it misfeeds.

 

 

They are lower quality than the TM, but they are a third of the price. Either is fair game(i'd prefer a TM :P but then i am an airsoft snob)

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I have been considering using one of the single BB shotgun as a sniper rifle that looks like a shotgun.

 

What is your experiance with long distance shots? Is the hop any good?

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Beautiful G&P! :D

That wood is just gorgeous, and is that a real steel 870 mag tube cap with a sling swivel on it? I'd be really curious to know how you got that on there since the threading and size from real steel caps to CA870 ones don't usually match up. A 20 gauge cap perhaps?

 

I do agree with Kenworth that I think it would look better with a standard set of 870 iron sights mounted to the barrel rather than the red dot, but ya know, that red dot is pretty cool looking and really unique. It really looks quite good. ^_^

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ED-SKaR, Since the gun shoots about 365 with a .25g BB, my range isn't much greater than that of an AEG. That said, because the gun is so consistent (accurate), my effective range is a bit greater. I've made some pretty long shots with it.

 

The wood kit is from a real 870, everything else is stock fom G&P. I threaded a wood plug for the sling swivel, and pinned that plug into the existing magazine tube.

 

I do like the plain sights better too, but the red dot gives a great point of reference. It's downright deadly.

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ED-SKaR, Since the gun shoots about 365 with a .25g BB, my range isn't much greater than that of an AEG. That said, because the gun is so consistent (accurate), my effective range is a bit greater. I've made some pretty long shots with it.

 

Thanks for the reply. Thats very good news, a sniper should be consistant after all else. I would be doing 400-450 for it but just knowing the hop is good quality is nice.

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I did reply to that a few pages ago, i said that they are smaller than 12 and larger than 20.

 

I have managed to get a 20 brass to feed into my maruzen shotgun, it does not eject though because the brass rim is too small so the extractor dosent touch it.

I dont have calipers to properly measure the rims.

 

 

picture for proof, not that it helps really.

http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/E...aR/DSC00119.jpg

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What is that mark on the Maruzen shell all about Ed?

 

I had a couple of spare Maruzen shells like that a while back which I eventually sold to Rhino or somebody, one of them had the exact same 'markings' - a rim cut into the plastic that went right round the shell. Weird, could be a coincidence but I wonder if they are created inside the gun somehow?

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