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Shotgun Picture Thread

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I did reply to that a few pages ago, i said that they are smaller than 12 and larger than 20.

 

I have managed to get a 20 brass to feed into my maruzen shotgun, it does not eject though because the brass rim is too small so the extractor dosent touch it.

I dont have calipers to properly measure the rims.

 

 

picture for proof, not that it helps really.

http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/E...aR/DSC00119.jpg

Sounds like it's about the size of a 16-gauge shell.

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I only have 12 and 20 bores, i dont know anybody at the gunclub who owns a 16 bore.

I love the gun club, its all those toff country types, the really steriotypical ones. Good fun :P

 

 

 

 

As i havent posted a picture yet, and this is a picture thread after all, behold, my maruzen m870, pathetically powered and broken!

 

DSC00123.jpg

Edited by ED-SKaR

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Love that Maruzen 870 Ed! Broken or not it looks fantastic with the mag tube and barrel extension from the 1100 on it :D

 

 

I recently did a little addition to my ACM 6mm M500 as well. I added a UTG top rail made for the real Mossberg 500, and had to re-drill the front mounting hole in the rail a little farther back to get it to line up with the Airsoft version's front hole the ghost ring sight normally mounts in. And on that little rail I put a HurricanE 552 replica sight ^_^

 

DSC00009-2.jpg

 

 

I'm often not too sure what to think of optics on shotguns, but in this case I think it works really well. Just put the EOTech reticle's big circle over the target and you're pretty much assured that at 25 meters and under all 5 BBs will hit somewhere inside that circle. I think for a shotgun it works much better than a standard red dot where you're usually left wondering "Hmm, will the BB spread hit to the left, right, above, or below the dot?". The EOTech reticle really takes the guesswork out, just put the target in the circle and you know it's going down. ^_^

 

I am going to make a few more very small additions to this shotgun in the not too distant future, but nothing too major. Just adding a Spec-Ops Master Blaster sling which will be connected to a swivel on the stock and a barrel/mag tube clamp swivel just infront of the pump. I think that'll be it for this gun.

 

 

Next up for me will be a Tanaka M870 14" Police Entry version with a Vang Comp ported barrel :D

I was thinking about a Maruzen 870 for a while but I like that the Tanaka can take a real steel trigger group and some chamber parts. So despite the fact that many of the stock Tanaka pins and rivets will need to be replaced within the first few months it seems like the best choice for long term durability since parts are slim to none for the Maruzen 870 and real steel 870 parts are cheap and easy to get in the US.

Edited by Jin15

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Not sure if I'll get a standard Tanaka or an Airsoft Surgeon yet, probably a standard Tanaka with Madbull shells though.

 

And yes, I've been doing my research on the problems. They're all regarding a few pins, rivets, and screws in the front set and receiver that need replacing. No biggie there. There is some concern over the durability of the hammer and hammer sear but those are both replaceable with real steel parts and I've worked on enough real 870s that I have no problem doing it. And if the firing pin breaks you can either get an Airsoft Surgeon milled firing pin set or make your own without too much difficulty.

 

So the Tanaka will have things that need work right out of the box, but the insides are almost identical to the real 870 with the exception of a few bits of the bolt and carrier, so for someone who is familiar with the innards of real 870s it shouldn't be much of a problem to tune up. ^_^

Edited by Jin15

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Easy, shortly after getting it drill out the 2 rivets that hold the outer barrel to the receiver, tap the holes M3, and replace them with screws. You will now to be able to access the innards and no longer have to worry about barrel wobble which eventually leads to the joint breaking from the flexing of the barrel against the receiver every time the gun is racked. Since the stock rivets that hold the outer barrel to the receiver are made of soft weak metal and come loose over time, and that's what causes front set wobble and eventual breakage. Drill them out, tap the holes, and replace them with screws and you're good to go.

 

Also, remove or glue in place the pin on the underside of the outer barrel that often falls out and jams up the pump. Lastly, replace the two plastic pins at the base of the front of the receiver (one on each side) with steel nails cut down to size and you'll be rock solid and good to go.

 

Then all you have to eventually worry about is hammer and sear wear which can be fixed by dropping in a real steel hammer and hammer sear, which will need to be slightly shimmed on each side since they're a tiny bit more narrow than the airsoft replicas.

 

The only other thing I know of breaking is the 3 part firing pin assembly which can be replaced with a Clarence Lai custom milled aluminum firing pin assembly.

 

 

So, I think I've done a fair bit of research and know what I'm getting into before getting my Tanaka ^_^

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Jin after hearing that all the problems can be fixed, your making me want a tanaka. Im still not liking how expensive the shells are though :angry:

 

 

I thought i already posted this, i guess not. Shotgun #4, TM SPAS 12

 

airsoftstuff002-1.jpg

 

airsoftstuff001-1.jpg

 

airsoftstuff003-1.jpg

Edited by airsofter0866

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That spas looks savage! I thought about gettign a shot gun but i didnt like the idea of having to take a shel out after like 10 shots, would get annoying and id probs get killed alot.

 

 

Once you learn how to, reloading a TM shotgun is very fast. Other shell shotguns like tanaka and maruzen take longer but given that they are true shotguns they make up for it.

 

Go watch some military or police training for the use of shotguns. I found some on youtube that where actually rather usefull.

 

I use a 9 shot stock holder (i have 9 shells so its convienient) and i can reload faster than slinging the shotgun and pulling a pistol.(probably cus i use two point slings :P)

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Full length

 

TM

 

M3

 

10 shells

 

shotgun bandolier

 

leave the gun bare and remove the shell door

 

= most awesome loadout I ever had.

 

Shame about the had :( part but no worries cus my full stock SPAS 12 & loadout is nearly complete :) , it'll be like the above but with one difference, an even cooler looking shotgun B)

Edited by Kenworth W900

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Anyone got a picture of an m500 with a wooden club foot stock ?

Have tried searching, as I have seen one on here before.. but the search on this place is awful. :)

 

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Anyone got a picture of an m500 with a wooden club foot stock ?

Have tried searching, as I have seen one on here before.. but the search on this place is awful. :)

 

whats a clubfoot stock?

 

google images just comes up with the vltor stock, and these arent wooden :D

 

got a link to one? (i realise the silliness of this question, as you are asking for pics :P ) as in a real one from a supplier.

 

ta.

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I'm sure you're all totally sick of seeing my Mossberg 500 at this point, but I think I'm going to have to do one last picture post of it for 2 reasons.

 

1) It's finally complete! Added the BHI sling swivels w/ Tac-Star barrel clamp front mount point and Spec-Ops Master Blaster sling :D

 

DSC00125-1.jpg

 

 

and

 

2) B****es dont know bout mah lazar B)

 

DSC00088.jpg

 

 

 

 

That is all. And those are the last pics, I promise :lol:

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ace, cheers!

 

am going to try to make one. after i finish the elephant gun which runs on mini moscarts. and after the serbu shorty begins. after i have moved house...

 

gah, no time!

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Well it shouldn't be too hard - just take wood stock and hacksaw and away you go.

 

Only thing to think about is making sure you get the stock bolt the right length.

Edited by Kenworth W900

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