Jump to content

Official Photography Thread?


Recommended Posts

High iso and low aperture for shutter speed.

Continous shooting mode, tracking focus (if your camera can handle it).

Panning shots.

For rotor/propeller driven aircraft: low shutter speeds and panning (like 1/250 to keep the blades blurry).

 

 

20070820185458_bese1-sm.jpg

 

20070814040636_4mation2.jpg

 

20070813023742_1531breit2.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 526
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

High iso and low aperture for shutter speed.

Continous shooting mode, tracking focus (if your camera can handle it).

Panning shots.

For rotor/propeller driven aircraft: low shutter speeds and panning (like 1/250 to keep the blades blurry).

 

Exaclty but a high iso and low aperture rarely work unless its really dark, plus ISO looks bad on skys.

 

So I suggest putting your camera on shutter priority mode (P), with an iso on 200 or less. The shutter speed should be around the 1/250th range but you can speed it upor slow it down if you need depending on how pics are turning out so dont be afraid to test things out.

 

Put camera on continous shooting mode for sure, it helps alot, just hold in the shutter release halfway and when you wanna shoot the pic just click!

 

:) Have fun!

 

3787001664_f29a1e1824.jpg

 

3786198517_4559cc2285.jpg

 

3786112395_4a45b9bb7a.jpg

 

 

Just a few from when I went to an air show.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers guys, I don't think I've ever used Continuous Shooting mode on my Nikon before, so I'll read up on how to turn it on/use it.

 

I'll try stuff out. If all else fails (not sure on what the weather will be like), there's always the automatic 'Sport' program... :lol:

 

Ben.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Exaclty but a high iso and low aperture rarely work unless its really dark, plus ISO looks bad on skys.

Iso 400 (or 800) noise is hardly visible in daytime even on the cheaper DSLRs unless you are pixel peeping.

And it's real easy to noise filter the sky - like you did it on your pics. :)

 

Low aperture will not work if he has AF/lens issues.

.

Edited by Trasher
Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers guys, I don't think I've ever used Continuous Shooting mode on my Nikon before, so I'll read up on how to turn it on/use it.

Well, there is always a first time. :D

Pratice panning shots before the air show (on moving vehicles, people, etc)...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Iso 400 (or 800) noise is hardly visible in daytime even on the cheaper DSLRs unless you are pixel peeping.

And it's real easy to noise filter the sky - like you did it on your pics. :)

 

Low aperture will not work if he has AF/lens issues.

.

 

Well I am just guessing he has something like a d40, d3000, or something similar to those, which actually do have noticable noise at 800. Plus in daylight ISO 200 + slow shutter speed = will still give you an aperture around f11-f16 usually. So no use getting the aperture higher then that.

 

And I actually didnt use a noise filter, those were shot at ISO200, was bright as hell that day! I went home as red as a lobster cuz of the sun LOL :P

 

 

 

 

Oh and just to throw this out, try putting active D lighting on, and I highly suggest shooting in RAW if you arnt alraedy!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome! Photography is an amazing hobby! If you have any questions just post on here we all can help ya out.

 

Good luck at the event man! If you cant find something out just ask another photographer there I am sure they will be glad to help ya out!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks man!

 

Today I charged the battery, cleared the SD card, and read half the manual to find out how to turn on Continuous Shooting mode <_<

 

As for settings, I'll try the default 'Sport' program, as I don't know what the weather is going to be like on Saturday.

 

I memorised the settings you guys came up with though, so might try them out earlier in the day to figure out what to change on the day.

 

Unfortunately, I suspect the kit lens to be woefully inadequate at this type of thing, so I'm not expecting great results - who knows, maybe the static displays will be good?

 

:(

 

Ben.

 

EDIT:: Also, my lens has that Vibration Reduction (VR) feature. Pros and cons as to using it for panning shots etc.? Don't know much about what it does - manual isn't very clear on it.

Edited by L4byr1nth
Link to post
Share on other sites

The sport mode will completely freeze the subject so put it on "S" for shutter priority, then you ONLY have to change the shutter speed, and I know for a fact 1/125th, 1/200th, or 1/250th....will be the best settings for that.

 

So just remember those 3, take pics with each (1/200th will probably be the best), and zoom in on the picture after yout ake it and make sure the planes fully sharp, but the propeller(sp) is a tad bit blurry like the pics above :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

Image stabilizers generally have a "sweet spot" (a recommended shutter speed range, check the manual) where they are useful. If you are shooting at faster shutter speeds (outside the range), just turn it off - since they can decrease image quality (fine blur).

 

Some stabilizers also have a "panning mode" which you've turn on manually.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope most camera manuals wouldnt have it due to the fact that most kit lens dont come with VR untill you get into the higher end cameras. Plus its more of a lens based feature, has nothing to do with the camera body.

 

If you wanna buy a "For dummies" camera specific book, I think it woudl help you ALOT...when I was getting use to my Nikon D40 I bought the book and read it about 5 times and it was litearlly majority of the reason why I learned so fast, so you could buy the Nikon D5000 one! Only $20-$30 and its VERY worth it!

 

 

 

 

 

OR if you wanna save money you can just ask me and Trasher, we both can help you out greatly.

Edited by ChrisWPA
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm all set - the show is tomorrow, I turned on Active D-Lighting (set it to 'Normal'?), etc.

 

It's probably all for nothing anyway, as with my lens they'll probably just be pictures of huge expanses of sky with a tiny speck flying in the middle, but hoping to get close to the runway for some take-off and landing shots to practice my panning technique.

 

Unfortunately, it's definitely going to be overcast, and there's a strong possibility of rain.

 

Ben.

Link to post
Share on other sites

was in farnborough recently on trade days

 

biggest tip is to get a bloody long lens. for anything flying thats smaller than bloody big airliner - ie. jet fighters - they are small and very far away.

 

200mm, which i was toting, is too short.

same tips as above, fast shutters, on props vary it a bit to see prop motion.

 

i used a D2X and D700.

d700 and 20mm was fine for indoor stuff though.

 

active d lighting is ok if: you use nothing but matrix metering [doesnt work otherwise], and you shoot jpeg only, or you shoot jpeg as well as raw, but use nikon's own editing program with raw to get the active d settings in.

if you only shoot raw it wont make a spec of difference other than actually slow your continuous shooting mode.

 

i might go again as work got in the way of actually enjoying it...

Edited by oikoik
Link to post
Share on other sites
if you only shoot raw it wont make a spec of difference other than actually slow your continuous shooting mode.

 

Wow thanks for the tip, I never knew that! Just the D300 and on the D40 I never used active D lighting, so I am very new to active D lighting. I shoot in raw 24/7 so I guess theres no point in having it on:D

Link to post
Share on other sites

actually, i was technically inaccurate - as its nt the fps that slows but the buffer writing and card writing - if you keep your finger on the shutter you get less shots, and the camera takes longer to process the pictures [bit like waiting for noise reduction]

 

you might find this useful:

Thom Hogan's Complete Guide to the D700 on page 336 he says:

 

"NEF shooters beware! Only Capture NX2 can apply the proper linearization curves automatically to get essentially the same effect as what the camera does for JPEGs and TIFFs. If you use another raw converter, though, consider not using Active D-Lighting. The reason for that is simple: you're going to end up with images that are underexposed, and you may have to manually apply corrections to the shadow area, mid-tones and highlights simultaneously. Because of the decrease in exposure, noise presence tends to be increased when you do this (especially if you do it aggressively and don't use a post processing noise reduction after conversion). Personally, I'd say you're better off - even Capture NX 2 users - to simply make sure that your exposure doesn't have channel blowout rather than using Active D-Lighting."

 

so, the general concensus is that if you feel you are fine without ADL, fine, dont bother with it :)

 

i didnt go to farnborough again because of work, and didnt go today becaause the vulcan isn't flying :(

Edited by oikoik
Link to post
Share on other sites

Farnborough was great!

 

Had loads of fun. Got sunburnt though - the weather report lied. Also, the F22 Raptor decided not to show up (bloody Americans :bleh:).

 

Oikoik is right - the planes go quite high, and thus a normal lens won't do. Knowing this, and only having said normal lens, I decided to set up at the start of the runway, and managed to capture some decent pictures of planes landing.

 

The static displays were pretty awesome as well - finally got to see an AH-64 Apache Longbow. The Airbus A380 was HUGE!

 

I'll show you some pictures I took when I can be bothered to upload them.

 

Ben.

 

EDIT:: Also, this - http://www.parkcameras.com/9775/Tamron-AF-18-270mm-f-3-5-6-3-Di-II-VC-LD--IF--MACRO--Nikon-.html

 

Any good?

Edited by L4byr1nth
Link to post
Share on other sites

its ok as a do-all-walkabout.

if you go for that, as 270 is still a bit short, shove a AF teleconvertor on it?

 

otherwise, the nikkor 200-400/4 af-s VR would be the one to get.

basically something longer than 300, and the sharpest possible.

a prime would be good but its hard changing bodies when a bird is zipping over your head at 100ft, 300mph.

 

[i was ok as i had my long D2X strapped to one shoulder, and my wide D700 to the other - no lens swapping - hard getting through doors though and several women looked at me oddly when i walked past from behind..]

 

in general, short of the A380 poppin gover my head, i ws ok with 80mm side of it, just the 200 side needed 200 more mm.

mine was 2.8 as well, so i didnt have to worry about the sweet spot setting a slower shutter speed, or more noise if a higher shutter speed. a slower lens would get you to consider the trade offs in speed, noise and depth of field, and overall quality of picture.

 

thing is, i'm not a wildlife photographer and i believe the gear a wildlife photographer specialiser has might be more geared to this kind of shoot.

 

rather than buying a lens, look at renting instead - i was looking at this option with another photographer for sharing a return trip to the airshow [helps if you both shoot the same brand lol]

Edited by oikoik
Link to post
Share on other sites

General rules: the wider the zoom range (and 18-270mm is laughably wide) the cr*ppier the lens.

 

I'd also avoid anything but Nikon, Canon, and maybe some Sigma lens.

 

Renting is a good idea.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.