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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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While we're on the topic of stocks... I know Marui was showing option parts for the SOPMOD in one of their catalogs for future catalogs and I saw a EMOD VLTOR stock (the one from the CQB-R). I noticed these stocks were less wobbly than the regular SOPMOD crane stock when I held a TM CQB-R the other day... Now the question is when are they going to release it? Also do you guys know of any alternative to stop stock wobble for the SOPMOD without having to replace the stock itself. mellow.gif

 

Most of us just cut to size small strips of tape and line the runner on the bottom of the stock tube on each side thus removing the gap when the play is.

 

Also the new stock peice from laylax "might" remove some too .. you never know.

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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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Tape FTW!

 

BTW! found these lipos:

 

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=6469

 

If you play with the stock fully extended, these ones can be stored in the gap between the end of the stock tube and the end of the stock, maybe making the batteries easier to swap :)

 

Sorry, cant remember the user name who already made this and posted in this thread, I just made the lipo search, so credit goes for him

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Figured it was about time I manned up and took my SOCOM to pieces, so today I finally installed the upgraded spring and a few other bits and pieces.

 

  • Firefly Soft Hop Rubber
  • Firefly Flat Hop Nub
  • Prometheus EG 603 Barrel
  • Laylax Piston Head
  • Laylax Sealing Nozzle
  • Laylax Cylinder Head
  • Laylax Hard Cylinder
  • Laylax Spring Guide

Wasn't sure what to expect from the Laylax parts as I pretty much searched for 'SOPMOD' and bought all the upgrades that showed up on a (very expensive) whim.

 

Chrono'd at stock with 0.20g it was consistently shooting 285-290 fps.

 

With upgrades and Eagle6 M100 it gets 380-385 fps. (Whoops.)

 

With upgrades and Eagle6 M90 it gets 360-365 fps.

 

I'll be leaving it until before the next skirmish to try and hit 345-350fps, just incase things need to settle in. Looking forward to seeing the range and accuracy improvement.

 

(The piston head upgrade turned out to be very useful, as it allowed me to use a hacksaw to 'dismantle' the piston.)

Edited by piggeh
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mid august they said, other than that... nothing :)

 

I dont think it will be anykind of DMR, its just a regular sopmod with a different rail/barrel/gas block/flash hider dry.gif im sure we can achieve the same results with a sopmod/socom

 

I know that it'll be the same as any other socom/Sopmod but I like the externals, plus it looks to have a longer outer barrel and free float barrel, which will be nice. If however its alot more expensive than a Socom/Sopmod i wont bother.

 

EDIT:

 

I've just changed out the pistol grip on my SOCOM for the original one (I'm going off magpul abit!) and I was spamming the trigger to test the motor depth (listening for the horrid scratchy sound you dont want!)and also to test trigger response (which is good!) and when I disconnected the battery i found that the wires inside the socom (forefrip) were very hot!

 

Now I've never notice this before and Im hopeing its not something Ive caused during the pistol grip replacement (which I highly doubt) but this may be something Ive just never encountered before!

 

Usually when I play I DONT spam the trigger, so I think it could be the spamming which is casuing the heat up! I noticed also that the motor felt hot, which I've never felt through the MIAD pistol grip before!?

 

Is this something other people are finding? any cures? better wiring perhaps? if so, which?

Edited by Number5
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TM said that they will try to keep price below 600$ so i think its going to be more expensive than expected, the only thing I can think of for this is the three piece barrel 7"/10"/14" and the DD rail, too expensive to be 150$ more expensive than a socom

 

Will wait for the clone

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I know that it'll be the same as any other socom/Sopmod but I like the externals, plus it looks to have a longer outer barrel and free float barrel, which will be nice. If however its alot more expensive than a Socom/Sopmod i wont bother.

 

EDIT:

 

I've just changed out the pistol grip on my SOCOM for the original one (I'm going off magpul abit!) and I was spamming the trigger to test the motor depth (listening for the horrid scratchy sound you dont want!)and also to test trigger response (which is good!) and when I disconnected the battery i found that the wires inside the socom (forefrip) were very hot!

 

Now I've never notice this before and Im hoping its not something Ive caused during the pistol grip replacement (which I highly doubt) but this may be something Ive just never encountered before!

 

Usually when I play I DONT spam the trigger, so I think it could be the spamming which is casuing the heat up! I noticed also that the motor felt hot, which I've never felt through the MIAD pistol grip before!?

 

Is this something other people are finding? any cures? better wiring perhaps? if so, which?

 

The last game I played I felt my pistol grip getting hotter than usual but I haven't played for a while now so I'm not sure if the problem still exists I'll see this weekend though. I hope it doesnt cuz I dont think a really hot motor is such a good thing xP

 

Btw the last couple games I played I was having problems shooting on semi, my mags would just stop feeding after a few rounds and then as soon as I switched it to full it was fine again. Anyone had this problem? You think it could just be my mags that need some cleaning or something?

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I never had that problem Kdawg, at least in my only lowcap, I use it for chronoing before the game and to "warm" a bit the hop rubber. Using it in semi and full auto, it allways fed nicely with 9.6batteries, will see this sunday with a lipo.

 

I mainly use a single hicap in games until I can afford to buy 4 or 5 more mags, and the hicap feeds nicely too in semi and full.

 

BTW: I got a Rhino lipo Battery, changed deans to XT60 connectors and im very pleased with the connectors and lipo, it feels a bit better than a 9.6v, much smaller, lighter and stupidly cheaper blink.gif not to mention the conectors are much more comfortable to plug and unplug. Only issue is that they are slightly bigger than deans, but they fit perfeccly in a KAC Rail.

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I never had that problem Kdawg, at least in my only lowcap, I use it for chronoing before the game and to "warm" a bit the hop rubber. Using it in semi and full auto, it allways fed nicely with 9.6batteries, will see this sunday with a lipo.

 

I mainly use a single hicap in games until I can afford to buy 4 or 5 more mags, and the hicap feeds nicely too in semi and full.

 

BTW: I got a Rhino lipo Battery, changed deans to XT60 connectors and im very pleased with the connectors and lipo, it feels a bit better than a 9.6v, much smaller, lighter and stupidly cheaper blink.gif not to mention the conectors are much more comfortable to plug and unplug. Only issue is that they are slightly bigger than deans, but they fit perfeccly in a KAC Rail.

 

What size battery did you end up using in your KAC rail?

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Well I just went out and shot a couple mags through my sopmod after finally getting everything upgraded and a working batt. I now have Richard's M100 spring, Firefly hop up rubber and nub, and Richard's custom 7.4v lipo. After charging up my newly fixed lipo i popped it in my sopmod and dry fired it some and it seemed to work fine although i noticed sometimes when i shouldered it it would stop shooting probably due to me bumping the battery in some way it didnt like but this didnt seem to happen again. So I put an empty mag in to check that the bolt stop was still working after I took it apart last and it was. So i took 2 filled mags and went out to shoot, at first everything went fine but then started to stop feeding. I would take the mag out and a couple of bbs fell out and then it might work for a few shots and then the same thing started happening again. Then when I had finished off the mag i tried dry firing after putting it back in and it took like 10-15 shots on semi before the bolt stop would engage but on full it engaged after a short pull of the trigger, although i managed to fire about 3 shots on full before it did. And when the bolt stop was working in the beginning it felt like it was a lot harder to push in, I thought I may have put it in wrong although I've taken it out several times now and done it the same way and never had a problem. And it felt like I was getting a little bit of semi lock up but this was probably cuz I wasn't pulling the trigger completely every time. And after shooting just 2 mags my pistol grip did start to get warm :S

Edited by KDawg
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These are the lipo type some users are using on their rails, KAC and DD, and this is the one im currently using in my regular handguard

 

Thats a pretty big batt your using! tight fit im guessing?

 

I have a G&P KAC copy coming, which according to the retailer will fit a small type 8.4 volt batt inside, which is about the size of the Lipo Im using. Im not entirely convinced it will fit in, but I have a smaller batt coming also, about the size of the 1200 mah batt you've linked to. Will let you all know the results!

Edited by Number5
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Could you please post a link to your KAC rail?

 

Yes, the bat im currently using is bigger than I expected so it doesnt fit in my KAC rail and Im back to use my old Dboys regular handguard unsure.gif

 

When Gunner listed this rail he stated that it could hold a battery into it. dont know if this is right or which kind of battery, never recieved an answer to my question... :(

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Hey guys, just a quick question I was going to add a 6.01 TBB and a bucking/nub (Prometheus), a ver.II spring guide and an m110 spring in it, would it be able to handle it? I have been looking thru this thread but man its way to long, still looking but if someone has a response for me, that would be great, and if there are any like recommendations on what size bb to use that would be helpful as well, thanks!

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ahadsz,

barrel and bucking no problem, spring guide and spring require a bit more research. (yes, I know this little thread ain't so little anymore.. :rolleyes: )

the spring guide is it's own design it's a floating guide -(for lack of a more technical term), also with the piston/piston head being different, you can't use many off the shelf after market springs, they tend to be longer than the gun will need to work properly. this will lock up the gun (which can be pretty frustrating) PM Mr. Richard Y he has done a lot of mad scientist planning for this gun and can help you. As well as many others here!

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Spring guide is not compatible and springs are shorter on the sopmod, so you need to cut them or the gun will die... quick :(

 

just install the TBB, firefly rubber and firefly nub, metal bushings and Richard Y M100 Spring for almost, if not more, 340FPS. Thats the setup most of the users run and the gun is scary. I will test it tomorrow with a guarder 6.02 TBB stock hop rubber, scs nub and Richards M100. Wish me good luck :lol:

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good point, wish the tm ak74mn had more battery space and wasnt sold out everywhere, I would get it, I also do like the g36k, but not sure if thats worth it either lol, it would be a better alternative (money wise, but not feature wise) but for some reason im addicted to this version. wide-eyed.gif Oh and what would be the max range of this rifle?

Edited by ahadsz
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