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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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Any idea if the AATS system will work with the TM Sopmod platform?

 

 

Umm just from that brief video it doesnt appear to be out yet, and without seeing the actual equipment i couldnt tell you. The Tm sopmod takes 5 min to change a spring on... thats pretty adjustable already.

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Umm just from that brief video it doesnt appear to be out yet, and without seeing the actual equipment i couldnt tell you. The Tm sopmod takes 5 min to change a spring on... thats pretty adjustable already.

 

 

:blush: I know. But it``s a lot easier to ajust the fps if you don`t have to take the stock tube apart when you are in the field. In theory you can go from a cqb to dmr setup in no time at all.

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Nice effort on that. The PTW/WE version is better in terms of that particular issue when you compare it to the RS B.A.D., but I was still finding it caused the problem a lot of the time.

 

What tools did you use akira? Just pliers and some muscle power?

 

Yeah, I used two crescent wrenches and a towel (to prevent scratches) haha.

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My SOCOM's re-birth;

 

The SOCOM/SOPMOD SPR MOD 1

 

Enjoy.

 

IMG_0372.jpg

 

and with a bit of kit (my attempt at "photography", but bad lighting meant flash time!)

 

IMG_0371.jpg

 

 

The gun is shooting at 326 FPS to 320 FPS. and can't comment on accuracy as havnt fired it in anger yet, but my M4 length Socom was hitting accurately at 50 meters in decent conditions so with a logner barrel...?

 

Got an Eagle 6 M100 spring in there and a Promy bearing spring guide (could possibly squeeze an M110 in there and be ok!)

I have, sat waiting to install, a Promy piston head, air nozzle and aero cylinder but I'm holding off installing these until I go back into the gear box as I want to do everything at once and aswell as the promy parts (to increase fps consistancy) I want to change the wireing out (getting rid of the fuse and making it easier to take apart by making some of the wires longer) and install deans connectors to replace the tamiya ones.

 

Then Its time to polish the inner barrel and further secure it with ptfe tape (though to be honest the Dytac SPR barrel is a tighter fit than the TM)

 

The build quality of the Dytac barrel is as CKinnerly has described, good enough but could be better and it took a little fileing to fit it correctly into the upper but not a lot, also required 6 shims to give a good grip with the Madbull DD RAS 2.

 

The barrel is much wider than other barrels so little to no room for a bat, even a Lipo. I have a friend who has access to mill and lathe so Im thinking about attempting to chop out some of the material and fit a lipo in the RAS so I can get a working PEQ box (though it may be more hassle than its worth and its not like people use the working Replica PEQ boxes for much other than looks!)

 

Was thinking about a mosfet but not sure If I could rig one up which would allow me to swap out the upper without a load of hassle; any thoughts?.

 

Externally I have an SPR scope mount on order and will be picking up a Harris bipod Repro asap. then add my RIS/RAS panels and jobs done!

 

Not thrilled with having the PEQ box on the side but with out a higher mount (SPR mount) It sits in front of the scope.

 

I Also have hear a new TM upper receiver and PDI 10.3 inch barrel and a Star M18 Ris 2 so I can have a choice of gun lengths with a quick change! The PDi outer barrel is well made, but the gap which fits the 'C' shaped clip to fit to the upper reciever is a tight fit, so my Promy 'harden' 'C' clip wouldn't fit into the gap and I had to use the OEM one.

 

Just need RicharY to get some hopup units in stock so i can finish off my second upper!

 

Q; Can anyone recommend a type of Wire to replace the original wires!? thats an Area Im a little lost in!

 

Cheers

 

J.

Edited by Number5
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Seems like my TM sopmod buffer tube is becoming a little loose. I think it happened because I've been slinging it by wrapping the sling around the buffer tube where it meets the receiver and when it hangs, the width from the front of the crane stock is holding it from sliding/falling. I'm guessing over time all that "pull" on the crane stock while hanging vertically eventually made the buffer tube a little loose? The stock also wobbles a lot more since doing that. I see a little ring around the buffer tube. Should i try to tighten that clockwise and that would help a bit without being too invasive? I'm assuming that taking apart the crane stock and trying to tighten that screw that attaches to the back of the gearbox like on a regular aeg is harder with the sopmod since the recoil assembly is in the way.

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i tried to tighten it by twisting it hard to the right but it seems like it's very easy to unscrew that ring if i just turn it a bit to the left. What's a ring tool? if I dont have one, is there another remedy for it and make it stay tight?

 

edit: does the blowback also loosen it more if i dont tighten it before play? i got a game tomorrow and I'm wondering if i could just be consious of it and just turn it back to the right( tighten) if it starts loosening up again.

Edited by Honzo
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i tried to tighten it by twisting it hard to the right but it seems like it's very easy to unscrew that ring if i just turn it a bit to the left. What's a ring tool? if I dont have one, is there another remedy for it and make it stay tight?

It's not the sort of tool you can bodge together using a couple of screw drivers unfortunately. You want something which either looks like this, or has a part on it which looks like this:

 

large_131_PJART.jpg

 

That bit sticking out on the inside hooks in to one of the cuts in your buffer tube's castle nut. Only make-shift alternative I can think of would be to put a punch in to one of the slots in the castle nut and hammer it in the required direction, though that's a pretty unpleasant solution that I wouldn't recommend. If you do resort to something like that at least put a cloth in the way or something to try and prevent damage.

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Anyone else use a Madbull Gemtech "HALO" Supressor? Didn't seem to work at all with my flash hider, so I had to take a file to it and notch thr left side so that the flash hider would be centered and the Supressor would install.

 

dd7bb09d.jpg

Edited by akiraspeedstar
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if you use it with a loose cattle nut / buffer ring you will mash the threads in the stock tube and have to repalce the stock tube. simple as that. Its not the sopmods fault you need to tighten the stock locking ring when ever its loose. The laylax tool is my fav as it has the part on the front for tightening the front ring when that gets loose too.

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Thanks for all the helpful advice. I'm going to try and find that ring tool online and order it. I'm not sure if i want to treat my baby with that rough hammer suggestion :P

 

Until the ring tool arrives, for now it seems to be staying pretty stiff. I took a piece of cloth, extended the crane stock all the way then I just twisted as hard as i could to the right using the cloth for a grip. It stays pretty well now but I'm sure i will need the ring tool in the near future. Is there a possibility of overtightening the buffer tube and ruining something?

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Right then chaps , acquired a stock sopmod second hand a couple of mths ago but due to having a crash on my motorbike a few days after getting it I've only fired it for the first time this wk (batteries were in the attic and gun down stairs , both legs FUBAR'ed so couldn't get UP the attic to get them ! ) any way there both up-graded 9.6v 1600 batt's and after charging them and sticking them in the gatt to test it , it's got a hell of a rate of fire on it compared to my socom witch has had some work done on it (the spring was changed so it's doing 315ish and I think the gearbox was re-shimmed ) now question is do I need to do eny thing to the sopmod to 'beef it up' or would it be ok running it as it is with the stronger batteries ?

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