druid799 Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Cheers Ego , was hoping for a reply from some one with experience over time . Banshee , as oppressor said it's from under the buffer ring , stops the wires getting shredded when you un-screw the stock so better get it back in sharpish ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
druid799 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 it's from under the buffer ring , stops the wires getting shredded when you un-screw the stock Corona and posting don't mix , had intended to say it protects the wires but some how I posted this gibberish sorry ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Honzo Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 so i'm ordering the ring tool to tighten my loose buffer tube concerning the problem I've mentioned earlier. How do I know how much more to twist it so i dont damage or over-tighten anything? sorry for the noob question Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 How do I know how much more to twist it so i dont damage or over-tighten anything? sorry for the noob question As always when tightening threaded components, by finger-gefühl and common sense. You can do the cloth grip thing first, then tighten a little bit more with the tool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Honzo Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 Thanks for the advice!! So, after experiencing this sopmod, i just love it so much and i have enough to pick up another AEG. I'm definitely picking up another TM EBB, it has made me a believer. I feel like such a hypocrite since i always thought the EBB was a gimmick. Anyways... I'm thinking about getting the TM SOCOM. Do you guys think it's worth it to have two m4s? Is the SOCOM more robust than the sopmod with the issues ironed out (since it was released afterwards). One advantage i can think of is that it can use a standard battery so i can still play throughout the winter if my sopmod battery dies. I thought about the TM g36k but it's seldomly available in the U.S. Also, it uses the same plastic from the original TM g36c body. At least the socom has a full metal body. SCAR is a little expensive and the AK blowbacks seem weaker than the sopmod blowbacks? Come to think of it, the g36k blowback seems a little weak also because of the plastic portion of the bolt? Anyone have shot these side-by-side and have an idea? I didnt want to create another thread so ill just add to this insanely epic thread since it's still relevant to the sopmod discussion by comparing them! Please help me decide!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
druid799 Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 (edited) i have enough to pick up another AEG. I'm definitely picking up another TM EBB, it has made me a believer. I feel like such a hypocrite since i always thought the EBB was a gimmick. Anyways...I'm thinking about getting the TM SOCOM. I have both mate (sopmod&socom) the sopmod has all the bells and whistles on it ; PEQ , torch , AFG , reflex site and single sling point at the base of the stock . the socom is old school , no torch , laser or any bolt on's bar an Acog on the carrying handle and a bog standard two point sling on it . Edited July 28, 2011 by druid799 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 I always advocate the SOCOM myself, more reliable battery system. Plus you can use whatever stock you like. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BerserkDS Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 likewise, sold off my cqbr because the socom beats it by a long shot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 likewise, sold off my cqbr because the socom beats it by a long shot. Due to the battery and accessories options? Or performance? To my understanding all of the m4 ebbs are exactly the same internals wise, with the only exeption being 3.5" of inner barrel length (SOPMOD/SOCOM vs. CQB-R). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 To my understanding all of the m4 ebbs are exactly the same internals wise, with the only exeption being 3.5" of inner barrel length (SOPMOD/SOCOM vs. CQB-R). You understand correctly good sir. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jeronimo Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Hello, I own a socom since a couple months now and i love it. (duh) But, i would like to replace the original front handguard with a ris rail. It should be able to take a split lipo battery because of the front wiring. So i've put my mind on one of the following rails, either the madbull DD RIS II MK18 9,5" or the Madbull lite rail 9". Madbull DD MK18RISII Madbull DD Lite Rail Can anyone who has one of those rails give any advice concerning battery placement? I know the MK18 has a lower that can be removed so i can replace the battery but i don't know if the lite rail can do the same.. Put to basics, i need a rail that can take a lipo in it, and isn't a pita to replace. And i prefer one of the 2 mentioned above. Thx in advance!! J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number5 Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Hello, I own a socom since a couple months now and i love it. (duh) But, i would like to replace the original front handguard with a ris rail. It should be able to take a split lipo battery because of the front wiring. So i've put my mind on one of the following rails, either the madbull DD RIS II MK18 9,5" or the Madbull lite rail 9". Madbull DD MK18RISII Madbull DD Lite Rail Can anyone who has one of those rails give any advice concerning battery placement? I know the MK18 has a lower that can be removed so i can replace the battery but i don't know if the lite rail can do the same.. Put to basics, i need a rail that can take a lipo in it, and isn't a pita to replace. And i prefer one of the 2 mentioned above. Thx in advance!! J. You can fit a split pack lipo in there, 7.4v about 1100 mah. If you have access to any milling type machines you may consider altering the barrel to allow a larger mah batt to fit, but I wouldnt recommend it for stability reasons. I run a Madbull Mk18 ris2 12.5 inch ris and use a peq 15 and lipo, but also have a split pack lipo as a back up for inside the rail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BerserkDS Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 (edited) Due to the battery and accessories options? Or performance? To my understanding all of the m4 ebbs are exactly the same internals wise, with the only exeption being 3.5" of inner barrel length (SOPMOD/SOCOM vs. CQB-R). Because of the battery wiring. I didn't want to deal with my cqbr and its battery options nor did I want to rewire it. Edited July 29, 2011 by BerserkDS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Honzo Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 so many advocates of the socom... im so tempted to get it now. It sucks that the socom is only 10-20 $ cheaper than the sopmod on airsoftatlanta (will be ordering from the US.) consider that the sopmod has the extra rail and everything (SOCOM was about 560$, sopmod/CQB-R is 570). I wish there was an american retailer that sold it for a bit cheaper... I looked at some HK retailers and some sold it close to 500$ even but then add shipping it's only a little cheaper. Airsoftatlanta would get it to me in 2-3 days as opposed to overseas shipping and possible customs issues seizing and burning out the trades. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 Hey could you guys post up your mods and FPS? I'm going to be placing an order soon for parts and kind of wanted to see what everyone else had. I was considering purchasing full Prometheus parts (piston, piston head, cylinder head, air nozzle, spring guide, gears, and 6.03mm barrel). Then either a m100 or m110 spring from eagle6 to finish it off. Hoping to keep my gun under 400fps, as that's the average limit for most places here (except for the occasional no limit games). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blablabla Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 (edited) Hello, I own a socom since a couple months now and i love it. (duh) But, i would like to replace the original front handguard with a ris rail. It should be able to take a split lipo battery because of the front wiring. So i've put my mind on one of the following rails, either the madbull DD RIS II MK18 9,5" or the Madbull lite rail 9". Madbull DD MK18RISII Madbull DD Lite Rail Can anyone who has one of those rails give any advice concerning battery placement? I know the MK18 has a lower that can be removed so i can replace the battery but i don't know if the lite rail can do the same.. Put to basics, i need a rail that can take a lipo in it, and isn't a pita to replace. And i prefer one of the 2 mentioned above. Thx in advance!! J. look for PM bro Edited July 30, 2011 by blablabla Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Banshee_Will Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 My TM sopmod........... bit of a WIP. Still need some BUIS and maybe a sf torch. It was sunny so I got the rattle cans out........ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robi Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 (edited) very cool M4! Did you modify the RAS II to fit the Marui? Edited July 30, 2011 by robi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Banshee_Will Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 The RAS II fits without any modifications needed. Just have to take the castle nut and follow the instructions........ I found it very easy to do and I'm rubbish at tech stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 I had gotten rid of my old TM New Gen M4 SOCOM with the FF 10.5" outer barrel a whiles back (maybe 8 months ago). Started tinkering with high speed setups and what not and I think I'm done with that phase now and am back to regular AEG stuff. Anyhow, I decided to get another TM New Gen M4 SOCOM. Right now, the only thing I have done to it would be the following: 1. Removed the fuse assembly. 2. Replaced the male Tamiya battery plug with a male Dean's plug 3. Adjusted the hop for .25g BBs. 4. Installed a Magpul BAD lever (for ease of use whenhitting the bolt catch as I am a lefty shooter) I know. Nothing out of the ordinary. Those who have come across my previous entries however would probably know how I try to be fairly detailed when it comes to writing something up. I guess I just want to write these things down for posterity's sake. LoL! Moving on...Previously, I never bothered chronoing my first TM New Gen M4 SOCOM. I just went on ahead and just slapped an upgraded spring and re-shimmed that sucker. This time around however, I decided to chrono the gun after charging up the battery. I was using a Hyperion 7.4v 2100mah 25C lipo. Aside from the deans plugs, everything else in the gun is stock. Out of the box, the hop up was set to zero. Using some Tokyo Marui .20g BBs, I proceeded to chrono the gun. After 10 shots, my XCORTECH chrono registered FPS in the neighborhood of 307-316 FPS. After setting the hop for Javelin .25g BBs for max effective range (with the BBs sailing up a little before dying), FPS reading for the said BB registered around 252-259 FPS. Thinking it was on the low side, I chronoed it again using Tokyo Marui .20g BBs (hop was still set for Javelin .25g BBs). The chrono read FPS in the 290's. I ran out of .20g BBs so I couldn't set the hop for that weight of BBs to get the stock velocity readings for that weight. Maybe next time. Anyhow, I just thought I would check in with this little bit of info about the TM New Gen M4 SOCOM that I got today. Next time I change things up, I'll report back with my findings --------------------- I wish ARS would make a Sorbothane padded cylinder head specifically for the TM New Gen M4 series. Then we won't have to worry about cracked gearboxes (granted that replacement gearbox shells are already available). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) Did you have to mod the BAD lever? I put a real steel version and had to bend it slightly, then file down a section so that it wouldn't touch the body. Edited July 31, 2011 by akiraspeedstar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Did you have to mod the BAD lever? I put a real steel version and had to bend it slightly, then file down a section so that it wouldn't touch the body. The Magpul BAD lever I installed was for RS. I had mounted it originally on my KJW M4 GBBR. It worked well on the KJW M4 (though I did have to slip a piece of shrink tubing onto the bolt catch as the "paddle" was not to RS spec). On the TM New Gen M4 SOCOM however, the angle of the lever needed adjusting for it to work. Without adjusting the angle (by bending it) of the lever, the bolt stop feature will be non functional. I bent the BAD lever enough so as there's maybe less than a millimeter's worth of clearance between the lever and the lower receiver when the bolt catch is actuated. In the process however, the anodization started to show some creasing. ------------------------ Here's a photo of the Hyperion 7.4v 2100mah 25C lipo. No modifications were done on the handguards. The battery fits in the battery bay and has minimal clearance under the outer barrel. The battery could slide around with a touch of a finger but holds itself in place. IMO its like the battery was made specifically for the gun as the battery's dimensions are near perfect for the handguards' space. Photos aren't the best of quality as it was taken using my MyTouch 4G phone and uploaded on photobucket. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Yeah pretty much like my BAD lever, I jus sprayed a light coat of satin black over it and it looks as good as new. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) Would this be the area where you had to file down your Magpul BAD lever (the area in the middle of the picture}? That pic shows the clearance of the BAD lever after the bolt catch is actuated by the lever of an empty mag. Also, notice how an area on the bolt catch (where it pivots) has line that goes across it? Is that a just a cast mark? Edited July 31, 2011 by sacairsoftsn00py Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Interesting, for my B.A.D. lever it would rarely work even after I bent it and I had to take a file to get it to operate correctly. This is after bending and filing and you can see how close it sits up against the body when a magazine goes dry. There's still a bit of space, but just the slightest touch and it's up against the lower. Also yeah, that line is also on my catch as well and it does look like a cast mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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