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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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charge your battery.

 

also when shimming....remove the cylinder set and anti reversal latch...shim the spur gear....then tighten the gearbox screws...spin the spur gear....

 

open the shell up...shim the sector gear...make sure it clears the spur gear...tighten the gearbox screws...spin the sector gear (interacting with the spur gear now)

 

open the shell up...shim the bevel gear...make sure it clears the spur gear...tighten the gearbox screws...spin the bevel gear (interacting with the spur gear...and in turn spins the sector gear)

 

open the shell up and install the cylinder set with the piston...

 

check and make sure the piston teeth sides clear the sector gear teeth...if it does...you should be good to go

 

 

dont forget to reinstall the a-r latch. Its also a good idea to install sorbo padding.

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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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Thnks for the responses. Here are my replies:

 

I have 4 different magazines and its been the same for every one. Never changed the barrel at all.

 

Megalo, if the air nozzle is out of alignment what do i do? how can i check and what causes the air nozzle to be damaged and what would it look like? I've had about 5000 rounds down the pipe through this one as the original owner

 

thanks everyone!

 

If you can twist or turn it,it may have popped out of the notch in the tappet plate that holds it in. If it is damaged the front section of the nozzle that seats against the BB will not look correctly. I found this while working on a SOCOM, that with the nozzle mis-aligned and slight damaged it only fed on full-auto, as the nozzle rested forward slightly blocking the next bb from entering the chamber on full the cycle was delayed slightly and would allow the BB pop passed the nozzle.

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snoopy, those instructions scare me! Ive never tampered that much with the socom!

 

Megalo, i think this may be the problem im experiencing. Any idea why this happens and how i can prevent it from happening? Will i have to open it up to fix this issue of the nozzle ? I'm not very savvy with these tech things! yet i call myself a sopmod owner, ugh!

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Honzo, Snoopy's post was aimed at the shimming issue not the feeding issue, it depends you may only have to separate the upper from the lower and re-seat the nozzle or file the tip as I did to remove damage. As far as preventing it, if you have to open the gun might as well replace the nozzle, I did mine up with a Prometheus nozzle.

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Been too lazy yet to fit it, waiting for a few little things to come (Piston Head, MOSFET, etc) to come then I'll test it with the 120 spring, then I will fit the R-Hop and compare. I'm really only stepping up to the R-Hop because the current set ORGA + Hardest Flat-Hop + TM Bucking, can barely hop the .3s that I run now and I'd like to step that up to .4s if I can.

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Been too lazy yet to fit it, waiting for a few little things to come (Piston Head, MOSFET, etc) to come then I'll test it with the 120 spring, then I will fit the R-Hop and compare. I'm really only stepping up to the R-Hop because the current set ORGA + Hardest Flat-Hop + TM Bucking, can barely hop the .3s that I run now and I'd like to step that up to .4s if I can.

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charge your battery... etc

I've been meaning to say thanks for the advice - thanks!

 

I opened up the gear box yesterday and while I couldn't see anything obviously wrong I went back to basics and reshimmed from scratch following your steps and the very helpful Eagle6 tutorials on YouTube. I haven't had a chance to do a proper test yet but everything spins smoothly and the piston does what it's supposed to when I turn the gears by hand.

It also occurred to me that the way I have the battery connected is very bodged at the moment so it could be that stopping enough juice getting to the motor. Hopefully I'll get time to wire in my mosfet and finish the build soon and test it properly.

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Without reading the whole 130 pages can anyone confirm if this version gearbox can hold a 400fps tuneup fine in minus Celsius in the winter as well?

 

Regular Ver.2 gearboxes go like sandwitches even at 328FPS when played under 0C.

 

Anyone heard of these broken as well?

 

Bjorn

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The gearbox shells break and will break with an m120 spring at below 0C.

 

If you want to keep that from happening, look into sorbo pads. I'm not quite sure how those sorbo pads hold up in the cold however. I'm sure you can google up properties of sorbothane for more info about them.

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I have tried sorbos.

 

Please be more specific - do you mean that in general gearbox shells break or THESE (M4 EBB) shells break in winter time? Because ver.3 gearboxes hold up rahter fine in harsh environments.

 

B.

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I have tried sorbos.

 

Please be more specific - do you mean that in general gearbox shells break or THESE (M4 EBB) shells break in winter time? Because ver.3 gearboxes hold up rahter fine in harsh environments.

 

B.

 

Just out of curiosity, why do you need to upgrade it to M120? Even at stock levels, a well tuned hop up setup can really reach out and touch somebody. Don't think it's worth the failure rate when upgrading to M120.

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Been too lazy yet to fit it, waiting for a few little things to come (Piston Head, MOSFET, etc) to come then I'll test it with the 120 spring, then I will fit the R-Hop and compare. I'm really only stepping up to the R-Hop because the current set ORGA + Hardest Flat-Hop + TM Bucking, can barely hop the .3s that I run now and I'd like to step that up to .4s if I can.

 

Meglo,

Are you using the pin that came with the Namzu? If not, that will help you get more hop.

If you are still having trouble getting hop with heavier BBs, you might be able to glue a thin piece of rubber to the flat side of the hop to make it thicker. ORGA does this with the Magpul ACR hop, and it seems to work well.

 

We can't get much heavier than .28BBs here in Japan so it is hard for us to test withthee heavier weights.

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Just out of curiosity, why do you need to upgrade it to M120? Even at stock levels, a well tuned hop up setup can really reach out and touch somebody. Don't think it's worth the failure rate when upgrading to M120.

 

Why M120 instead on M100? Well the answer is the same as why a VSR rifle should have a 150m/s upgrade instead of a 120m/s one. A little bit of extra range and extra speed.

 

However I ofcourse agree that a big failure rate is not worth it. That is why I asked about the shells braking.

 

Bjorn

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Looks like both of my SOPMOD batteries are dead... Any one else experienced little life-times of these?

The standard Sopmod batteries are well known for their short life cycle, and their dislike of low temperatures. Recomend you to change to custom Eagle6 batteries, or rewire and use lipos in the stock(7,4v).

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Looks like both of my SOPMOD batteries are dead... Any one else experienced little life-times of these?

 

Yeah the only good thing about those batteries is the quick change ability. Like arne71 said, either use the LiPo batteries from Eagle6 or just do a quick and easy swap to a deans connector and run some Crane stock style batteries. When I owned a SOPMOD I just did the deans conversion as it took only a couple of minutes and can easily be converted back to the OEM setup.

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Thanks for your replies :) I just ordered enough cells to convert the Marui ones to 9,6V 1.600mAh NiMH batteries. The cover of the Marui batteries is easy to open and I like the fast and simple way to change the SOPMOD battery. A local battery expert will deliver the cells pre-configured. I will post some pictures when configuring. Stay tuned :)

 

Good to know the batteries are "not so good". That explains why I had nearly no increase in performance when changing to the Echigoya custom motor :angry22:

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