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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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Alright, thanks.


How hard is it go about replacing the stock on a SOPMOD? I was going to pull the stock off of the SOPMOD and put it on one of my other ARs and put on a CTR - is that not possible? Does the SOPMOD use some special sort of stock type? Will I not be able to put the SOPMOD's stock stock on a different gun?

 

Also, where can I buy an EMOD stock for SOPMODs, then? All I've found is Dboys/King Arms

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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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I'm guessing lots of places. Just Google on Marui EMOD stock - for example http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Grips_and_Stocks_AEG_Tokyo_Marui_EMOD_Stock_Flat_Dark_Earth.htm

 

I don't own the SOPMOD, but I'm going to go with "Really easy" on installing the EMOD. Should just be a question of pulling down on the stock adjustment lever and sliding the whole thing off.

 

I'd have to re-read this thread for the standard stock answer. My initial response would be that you can't, although I know some people have. I *think* these were with SOCOMS though.

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If you front wire it, you can indeed put any stock you'd like on it. As before, the only compatible stocks for rear-wired guns are the original Crane (black, SOPMOD, or DE, RECCE) or the EMOD (black or DE, CQBR). Changing between stocks is ludicrously easy; pull the lever down (rather than pushing it up) to retract the pin all the way, and pull it gently off the stock tube (the bent plate friction connectors on the stock tube are easily broken, which is the primary reason for buying the gold connector kit - it includes solid alternatives).

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:D You can never be too careful when it comes to those connectors, according to my assessment of Japanese warning label I found in the bottom of my SOPMOD's box.

 

I've never tried it, but the front wiring is apparently easy apart from one thing; the SOPMOD doesn't have a clip or something like that which is supposed to hold the wires out of the way of the gearbox. Someone more experienced will be better able to explain it.

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Just to be clear, if you front wire the Sopmod you can change the stock to anything that doesn't come with a special buffer tube.

 

So the F93 stock is still a no go and so is the Magpul UBR, but the latter could be adapted if you have access to some appropriate tools and can shape the original Sopmod buffer tube to what its needed.

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I think it would be considerably easier (though not necessarily necessary) to unscrew the pot-metal SOPMOD buffer tube in its entirety and replace it with a nicer one if you're going to front-wire the gun, especially since the original is apparently prone to stripping its threads.

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Why would you buy the recoil-compatible one? In my mind, the stock tube is a stock tube much like any other, apart from the fact that it's got that removable strip on the bottom to hide the wiring and a mounting block for the contacts. If you aren't rear-wiring the gun, you don't need either of those features. Is the inner diameter special, or the threading? Do SOCOMs have a special stock tube like the SOPMOD? I've always assumed the SOCOM uses a regular Marui stock tube - am I wrong?

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Yeah, you're wrong :(

 

The stock tube is different:

1) it screws in the lower receiver and encases the gearbox

2) it actually closes the gearbox air group - if you look inside it has an inner wall on which the spring guide sits. The Sopmod / Socom gearbox is not closed in the back

3) it holds the recoil weight and separates it from the gearbox air group

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here's a quick but precise question.

 

I know that I require shims to pack out my new ACM Larue RIS and i know that laylax produce the right sized ones, however it strikes me as cost effective to buy some RC gearbox shims. Durango make many sizes, just wondered what the dimensions of the Laylax ones are, all i know is that they are .1mm thick.

 

Same goes for the dimensions of the barrel lock shims made by First Factory.

 

Any help is much appreciated.

Edited by sunburnthammer
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Because with a Micro-Fet around the size of a set of Deans connectors you can fit a wire-in fet just about anywhere, I'm fitting one up front on my SOCOM and will be fitting one in the stock of my CQBR.

 

I've applied an relatively recent mod (Frankentorquing) to my CQBR and will be doing more of them with my others. I took the stock TM EG1000 Armature, cleaned the comm, and then dropped it into an ACM Neodymium Magnet Motor Can with front and rear bearings (TM uses brass bushings), shimmed the shaft to TM spec end-play, and then bedded the brushes to the comm under low voltage free spin. The result is a fast, quiet, and powerful motor, that is made of parts you likely have laying about.

 

I did a comparison between the EG1000 and the EG1000M+ as I'm calling it, and the trigger response difference is beyond belief, ROF has a mild increase from the Magnet's increased torque but trigger response is literally instant on with a small 7.4v (2s 1800mAh 25c).

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Because with a Micro-Fet around the size of a set of Deans connectors you can fit a wire-in fet just about anywhere, I'm fitting one up front on my SOCOM and will be fitting one in the stock of my CQBR.

 

That's all well and good, but it isn't what I'm looking for. A small home/amateur-made 'FET is nice, but it still leaves you with TM's trigger contacts (boo) and none of the features enjoyed by, say, the NexGen-specific AWS Stealth which was supposed to come out two years ago...

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Because with a Micro-Fet around the size of a set of Deans connectors you can fit a wire-in fet just about anywhere, I'm fitting one up front on my SOCOM and will be fitting one in the stock of my CQBR.

 

I've applied an relatively recent mod (Frankentorquing) to my CQBR and will be doing more of them with my others. I took the stock TM EG1000 Armature, cleaned the comm, and then dropped it into an ACM Neodymium Magnet Motor Can with front and rear bearings (TM uses brass bushings), shimmed the shaft to TM spec end-play, and then bedded the brushes to the comm under low voltage free spin. The result is a fast, quiet, and powerful motor, that is made of parts you likely have laying about.

 

I did a comparison between the EG1000 and the EG1000M+ as I'm calling it, and the trigger response difference is beyond belief, ROF has a mild increase from the Magnet's increased torque but trigger response is literally instant on with a small 7.4v (2s 1800mAh 25c).

I am very interested in this modification though  I have no clue on what it really does to the motor. Would you mind shed more light on it and perhaps show some photos on how to mod it?

Edited by Berggy
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