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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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For a rear wired m4 you could try the madbull battle ax it seems tho have good battery space!

 

How would this stock work with the contacts on the stock tube? Has anyone modded a non-TM stock to use with a Sopmod yet? If there was a way that still enables all stock positions to be used, I would be interested.

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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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Double check polarity, it that still fails remove the buffer tube to take tension off the spring, remove the pistol grip and use a small screw driver to move the gears and feel for problems.

 

If you've wiped the threads in the lower you can do what another user did, drill through the lower and make dimples in the tube, then tap and screw in set screws 3 is ideal to secure it, then replace with the castle nut with a proper locking ring from laylax.

 

How common is it for people to wreck the threads? I've had mine Fathammers apart dozens of times each and my threads are all still good. Slow down, don't just try and jam it in and turn it, apply pressure to overcome the spring (a bit of lube on the base of the guide helps), then gently turn anti-clockwise until you feel the threads line up, then start turnining in, I generally turn the tube in until it bottoms out and then back it out one full turn, lastly really lean on the castle nut with a well fitting wench to do it up tight.

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I just received my madbull DD RIS, but after installing the barrel nut the barrel wobbles. I need some washers but unfortunately those from echigoya are out of stock, so can i use washers for a normal aeg? Or is there a trick to eliminate wobble with something else, without buying extra washers?

 

had same with mine, thankfully i got some washers with it, don't know if they are bespoke or what.  I've also used rubber o-rings to tighten it up as well, can leave the barrle in a slightly movable state though :P

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I've been having issues trying to get the power up on mine. Stock it was as expected (280 ish?) and compression seems good when tested, but I'm not seeing the results expected from the springs in it.

 

I've had an Eagle 90, 100 and 110 in it and currently it's got the 110 (allegedly 380-400) doing 330fps. Sadly I think this is too much spring for a standard gear set (hornbill) as it keeps blowing fuses at a rate of knots. It's using exactly the same setup electircally as it has the last year or more, it's just the spring that's different. Ghetto fuse modded it in the field on Sunday with the driver from a removable screwdriver. This worked fine up til the point smoke started coming out. Fortunately wasn't a lipo fire, I suspect just the "fuse" getting so hot it started melting wiring/solder. Still fires fine though.

 

Obviously I'm going to downgrade the spring again, but I'd certainly like to get nearer to 350 with the 100.

 

Upgrades wise - standard hop/barrel, hornbill gears, prometheus cylinder head/nozzle/gold contact bars/spring guide.

 

Any thoughts?

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Check how well the gears move with the cylinder assembly out and the gearbox shell clamped down by the screw. I suspect a shim job that needs to be improved.

 

Ive been running my gun with a cut down spring. Currently shoots about 380-90 fps using the stock motor and a 7.4v lipo.

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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Check your shimming if you are blowing fuses, but it sounds like you need more torque, I'd ditch the fuse, upgrade the wiring, and clean the trigger contacts, and if you can drop in a MOSFET, then drop in a Lonex A1 or A2 or modify your EG1000.

 

Modern motors negate the need for Torque gearsets.

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Even though I front wired my SOPMOD to a PEQ to allow for slimmer stocks, a friend recently bought a TM HK416, made this for him out of my old and un-used quick change battery and it works great! and I'd like to thank Richard of Eagle6 for the idea!

 

I do have to add... it wasn't fun making it fit. 

 

battery-mod.jpg

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Cheers for the suggestions. I'll take another look at the shimming. I did spend a while on it last time round and followed the guide, but I'll freely admit it's probably not my greatest strength. Not certain what I can do if there's an air leak from nozzle to hop - I can't exactly move it closer. I did forget to mention I have a complete spare hop/barrel assembly that I also tested it with and got much the same fps, which is why I didn't suspect leaking hop, etc as a cause. Oh well, nothing on this morning, I'll break out the screwdrivers...

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Right. Have taken 1mm shim out. I think the shimming is actually largely ok, but we'll see. M110 downgraded to M100. More importantly, air leak identified between cylinder and cylinder head. Wrapped with PTFE.

Intermittent electrical fault when trying to fire, tracked down to the fuse holder having been stretched by the ghetto fuse, hence making intermittent contact. While identifying this also noted melted plastic in this area, which is most likely the smoke (judging by blueing on the fuse holder).

 

Reassembled and tested, 325-330 on stock barrel, 335-345 on 6.02 407mm barrel, which is much more like it. :)

 

The only issue I now have is I've managed to lose/mangle the two screws that hold the wire cover rail on (underneath the sliding stock). Can anyone advise on sizes/replacements for these?

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If you have that much of a variance you still have a leak somewhere (or you are using poor quality BBs), fuses shouldn't blow for no reason and the holder shouldn't get that hot, you have a massive point of resistance somewhere, bad shimming (both too tight and poor alignment), shimming isn't just about removing excessive end-play on your gear shafts it is also about properly alignment of the gears. Don't do it the old way look into bevel first shimming you'll get a better gear mesh and its a quicker process.

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Check your shimming if you are blowing fuses, but it sounds like you need more torque, I'd ditch the fuse, upgrade the wiring, and clean the trigger contacts, and if you can drop in a MOSFET, then drop in a Lonex A1 or A2 or modify your EG1000.

Modern motors negate the need for Torque gearsets.

mega may i ask if 7.4v batteries will handle a Lonex motor well? i have not tried theirs but have heard some strong motors will kill low voltage batteries easily. Not quite sure if it is true.

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hey all,

 

I'm in the process of making my sopmod into a dmr rifle.  Alls going well so far, just waiting on parts.  Trying to decide on what stock to go with though.  I'm front wiring it so no worries on battery. 

 

Now I'd love to get a magpul UBR stock on there, have been told that the ggb version would work.  Anyone know if this is the case?  I have a spare stock tube, so if i means taking off all of the protruding metal to make it a smooth cylinder then thats cool, just after some confirmation before i drop 140quid on a stock.

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Just deciding what to mod on my Sopmod. First thing to go is the grip as I find them uncomfortable. Can anyone recommend a good replacement please? Then next will be a Laylax ring and Asap if I can find one in stock at a reasonable price!

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you need to buy the metal bottom plate for the MOE grips. The plastic bottom it comes with has motor alignment issues

 

MIADs I believe come with the metal plate as standard if you buy the kit (as in the one that comes with various front/backing combos) but don't take my word as gospel on this bit.

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