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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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What blam has said is correct, but the metal baseplate is a separate item. The MIAD grip comes with a plastic base. On the upside though, once you have the metal base plate you can sell your spare MIAD grip and plastic base plate and recoup the cost of the metal base (the MIAD kit comes with two grips).

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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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Stock closes all the way and also has full extension. I removed the contact bar and contacts and soldered the cable onto the ends (in case I wanted to reverse it). I made a hole in the middle of the stock big enough for the deans connectors to go through. The pods at the side were removed and then a 19mm HSS drill put down and finished off with a file so the batteries fit nicely. I cut a groove for the cables to go through and passed the deans connector into the "storage" area. Plenty of slack for extension and I can pull out the connectors from the little door.

 

 

 

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Ah - from the above photo I see why; the ACS is longer than most other stocks. The vast majority of stocks are designed to be as flexible as possible (that is, extendible from the shortest to longest length); they're designed so that when fully collapsed (the 'smallest' position on the receiver extension) the end of receiver extension hits the end of the inside of the stock, the limiting factor upon the smallest a stock can physically be. The last few centimeters of your ACS' internal cylinder is obstructed by those two rubber tabs sticking into it; there's no way the receiver extension can pass those, so it must be that the front of the ACS hits the castle nut before the receiver extension hits those tabs. With at least that length of the stock's internal cylinder never filled by receiver extension (even at full collapse) your wires have plenty of room to bunch up inside the cylinder.

 

A quick look at MagPul's site confirms this - at full collapse the ACS is over an inch longer than the CTR, and all of that inch is available inside for wires to bunch up. It's a shame that you couldn't get it so that the Deans connectors stayed in the upper portion (rather than the storage box) as I'm guessing that you now need a screwdriver to remove the buttplate to get at the batteries?

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I have nun chuck batteries, so I would have to remove the buttplate anyway. Having the connectors where they are means I can connect and disconnect easily.

First time out with it tomorrow and looking forward to it. Just ordered my Laylax spanner and lock ring from Fire Support today and received my ASAP today. Another job for next week.

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Zushiku: That is sweet, a really cool looking blaster.

I have been thinking of swapping out my Troy TRX rail for a Knights URX 3. Is yours replica or genuine? Which brand? And did you have any issues with getting it to fit?

 

Thanks

 

-

 

Edit: And for some reason I'm thinking the bottom section of the rail is removable. Is that right? Any chance of getting a small lipo on there?

Edited by SixtyNiner
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Just finished my SOPMOD  :D  Build as follows. Magpul MOE grip and trigger guard, Magpul ASAP, Laylax hard buffer ring, Magpul XTM handstop, Troy battle sights, Vortex RS Strikefire, Madbull VTACS 11" battle rail and Magpul ACS stock modded to fit the 7.4v nunchuck batteries in.

 

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Right so I'm having some (more) issues with my moneypit of a CQBR.

Having straightened out the stocktube the gun is still locking up in semi although running fine in auto (for info it is popping the standard 20A fuse every time it locks up and the motor can be heard stalled and trying to turn). The gearset is a brand new set of prommy balanced gears, the motor is a natty little handwound tanio koba number and at the same time as putting the stocktube back at a 15 degree angle my local airsoft shop apparently sorted out the earths on the wiring.

Any ideas?

 

Apologies for the thread hijack but i figured here would be the best place.

Edited by hunter512
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Having straightened out the stocktube the gun is still locking up in semi although running fine in auto (for info it is popping the standard 20A fuse every time it locks up and the motor can be heard stalled and trying to turn) [...] at the same time as putting the stocktube back at a 15 degree angle my local airsoft shop apparently sorted out the earths on the wiring.

 

Guns don't pop fuses for fun - there's something seriously wrong with yours! I agree with Megalomaniac - I think you have a wiring and/or shimming problem. I'd say that having your stock tube bent could have inflicted damage to the wiring and the tolerances of the gearbox.

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Popped fuses, rather than mechanical is probably a crossed wiring problem. I popped 3 prommy fuses before I figured my wiring problem out. Then I cut the fuse out and straight wired it!

 

It could be mechanical, but if the stock tube was bent, and your tech had no Idea what they were doing its probably wiring.

Edited by Number5
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Hunter your shimming had to be off and/or you have a wiring problem.

 

Re-Shim first you want about 0.1mm of endplay on the gears, clearance between the shells and the gears, clearance between the gears, and the pinion centered on the bevel.

 

 

Popped fuses, rather than mechanical is probably a crossed wiring problem. I popped 3 prommy fuses before I figured my wiring problem out. Then I cut the fuse out and straight wired it!

 

It could be mechanical, but if the stock tube was bent, and your tech had no Idea what they were doing its probably wiring.

 

Just a final question and i appreciate this could be me being stupid but wouldn't a shimming issue or indeed a wiring issue manifest in both semi and full auto? Once again thank you for your tolerance, It seems I can fault find on a gas turbine but apparently not a toy gun!

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Quick and easy tape fix for magazines with faulty bolt catch lever system:

 

The ghettofix does work, but once applied you cant push the lever down completely:

 

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And because of that, you cant push the Bolt catch entirely in, after all BBs were fired.

 

I then tried to put a small piece of rubber under one side of the the other lever (pic below), so there's nothing on the upper side that prevents the lever from getting pulled up completely. Unfortunately, it didn't work quite well, the Bolt Stop still didn't engage. It had to do something with the strenght of the spring...

 

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So i just put some tape around the appliance that holds the magazine spring in order to increase the "pushing force" of it:

 

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With only that applied, the lever goes down completely:

 

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Works like a charm now, with the Bolt Stop operating each and every single time.

Edited by KyleKatarn
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