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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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You'll more than likely need to upgrade a few things.

 

To get to 25rps, you could always short stroke the piston....adjust the angle of engagement. That should allow for the recoil system to catch up with the addition of a stiffer recoil weight spring.

 

With a high velocity setup, I'm questioning reliability myself. Personally, I've never considered going high rof. I'd like a better trigger response more than anything. Point of the recoil shock aeg series for me is realism

 

 

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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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Yes I have the AOE corrected in my 416 so there is a little bit of less travel time for the piston. Im using a Lonex A2 with an Eagle6 M120. The reason I was trying 11.1v lipos is because with 7.4v the semi sometimes stuck(particulalry when I don't pull the trigger entirely or switching from full-auto with an unfinished cycle), on 11.1v I had no problem. Im planning to buy a heavier recoil kit that might lower the ROF on 11.1v to a reasonable level.

 

I have a question about cylinders. Now I just read(altough it was an old thread so I don't know if its outdated) that certain barrel lengths paired with the right type of cylinders give better accuarcy. Now I have a Lonex full cylinder with a 275mm inner barrel(well Im actually using a 363mm one right now but plan to have a quick swap barrel). Would it be in anyway more efficent to install a ported cylinder?

 

Also does anyone have any news about the BTC mosfet?

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You'll more than likely need to upgrade a few things.

 

To get to 25rps, you could always short stroke the piston....adjust the angle of engagement. That should allow for the recoil system to catch up with the addition of a stiffer recoil weight spring.

 

With a high velocity setup, I'm questioning reliability myself. Personally, I've never considered going high rof. I'd like a better trigger response more than anything. Point of the recoil shock aeg series for me is realism

 

 

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cheers snoopy. i was more curious than serious about increasing rof to 25rps. i had a chance to fire a stock recce on the marui 8.4v the other day and rof was more than acceptable. trigger response was a bit lacking though.. what sort of mods did you install to get a better response in the trigger?

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I have not received the nunchuck 7.4v lipos to transfer into the marui battery casing.

 

For my other recoil shock aeg's I use lipos to kick up the trigger response. I use a Hyperion 7.4v 1800mah 35c lipo for my scar-h....for the mk18, I use a 7.4v 1300mah 25c...

 

Mk18 uses a g&p m170 motor. Gun shoots about 390 fps at 17-18 rps.

 

Scar-h is using the stock marui motor...shoots 340 fps at 17-18 rps.

 

I'm running lonex 5.9mm metal bushings, and shs next gen gear sets.

 

 

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Hope someone can help me.

So I have like 10 mid caps and I load them all up with .20 and when I fire semi a bb shoots out every like 5 pulls. On full auto on ebb comes out like every 3 seconds of holding trigger.

This is the issue on all the mid caps and holding it into magwell doesn't work either.

However all the hi caps work flawlessly.

 

Can anyone help me resolve the issue?

 

Sounds like your springs have become compressed, easy enough to fix.  Remove the spring from the magazine, give it a stretch and put it back in.  Thankfully the recoil shock mid caps are really well designed and removing the spring for a stretch is as simple as undoing 2 screws!

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Also is there a way to get a replacement of the fake bolt assembly plate ? I lost mine

 

I'd also be interested if anyone sells these as a standalone spare part. Mine got dented by a very close range BB impact and now it sticks during the cycle. Not a big problem but if I can get a replacement that'd be great.

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I wonder if anyone can help me, my sopmod was working totally fine yesterday and today I put in the battery, it shoots on semi and like 5 shots on auto then completely shuts off without any reaction. put in different mags, put it upsidedown played with the bolt catch nothing works. Now it won't shoot at all. What could be the issue here?

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This worked all the mags work 100% now thanks!

 

Also is there a way to get a replacement of the fake bolt assembly plate ? I lost mine

 

http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/upgrade-part-s/original-tm-parts/tokyo-marui-m4-recoil-series/tokyo-marui-blowback-assembly-dust-cover-for-m4-recoil-shock-series.html

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raryqumy.jpg

 

Brand new marui 8.4v 1300mah nimh sopmod battery...charged/topped off after taking it out of the packaging (6 hours before I chronoed). Bbs used were toytec .25g.

 

py4edyde.jpg

 

Same 8.4v battery. Using marui .20g bbs.

 

 

 

4ame4yhe.jpg

 

Turnigy 7.4v 1200mah lipo fitted in the marui sopmod battery casing. Used toytec .25g bbs.

 

amu5abaz.jpg

 

Same lipo. Used marui .20g bbs.

 

Trigger response with the lipo is quicker. Not by much but the difference is audible. Was it worth modifying for the lipo to fit? To me, it was because of the improved trigger response.

 

If you're not mechanically inclined ,do not have steady hands, and below average hand eye coordination....I would advise against modifying a lipo to fit inside the case. Extra care is needed to do this mod. One slip and as my friend said "nevermind your hand...you may burn your face".

 

A better alternative would be attempting to add another 2/3a cell so you end up with a 9.6v 1300mah battery. It is much safer and a lil bit easier to do. Also, the rof improvement will most likely be even more significant!!!

 

Even then, I will be modifying the 8.4v battery I just got so I can use another 7.4v 1200mah lipo in the marui casing so I have matching batteries.

 

Depending on how im feeling, I may opt to get two more 8.4v sopmod batteries and attempt to turn it into a 9.6v.

 

TM HK416 Devgru had a cut down Prometheus 6.03mm barrel. It is approximately 280mm in length. The spring was also a cut down aeg spring. All other parts are stock.

 

I just paid for a Kobayashi Torque Up motor hoping to improve the trigger response further. Hopefully I get it over the weekend

 

On my SOCOM, trigger response is without delay using a 7.4v 1300mah 25c lipo. I am using a G&P M170 motor in it however.

 

I was going to get another one, but after factoring shipping/taxes, I figured that its almost the same as getting a kobayashi motor. Hopefully I'll get favorable results with it even though im only using a 7.4v 1200mah lipo.

 

 

 

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Edit....looks like the kobayashi motor is out of stock.

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py
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Sounds like you gave it a good charge snoopy, just so everyone knows TM Sopmod 8.4v standard quickchange packs need to be slow charged 0.1 - 0.3a over night.  The reason is so todays modern auto detect chargers sometimes cut off off before a full charge is put in, as they are naturally high resistance cells.  Not to mention those little c/d cells dont like fast charging.  

 

Your battery options are varied....

 

1. Standard 8.4v quickchange pack

 

2 . Standard quick change pack but remove all the cells and solider in 8 brand new 1600 c/d cells.  This will now make your sopmod pack a 9.6v 1600mah, cells are on ebay or at component shop, youll want to stick with branded cells.  Many companys / shops will do this for you one in particular if you are uk based is http://www.componentshop.co.uk/  If you email they can arrange this service.  "so i hear"  ROF will be up in the 15 - 16s on a standard unchanged sopmod which is more than 7.4v lipo

 

3. Convert the sopmod pack to a lipo, there's many different ways, from cutting the pack to hollowing it out, some using normal lipo, others using lithium ion cells, the key aspect here is that it simply involves taking a original pack and depending on the users own preference modding it into havinga  lipo attached to the quick connectors.  The pros of this is its lipo so much more forgiving when it comes to charging ie faster and easier.  and like snoopy mentioned an easy improvement over a 8.4v pack which isnt playing ball "ie seems to have rof but no GUTS to it"

 

if you want to pay for this service, a link might be http://airsoftaddicted.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/jcs-custom-tokyo-marui-sopmod-lipo.html  at the bottom is john curries email  jcurrie1979@gmail.com he can make the packs ready made, at a cost of course.

 

4. a lipo adaptor - using this retains the quick change connections but allows you to go lipo without mods and attach a normal 7.4v lipo.  an example might be http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/accessories/tools/triggertalk-battery-adaptor-for-m4-recoil-shock-series.html

 

5. Directly wiring, you can simply soldier wire onto the terminal bars and fashion something to stop the bars sliding out, or remove them entirely to fit wire directly to wires ( warning the second option makes the stock very loose ).  To make this option a little more professional you can buy this http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/prometheus-gold-stock-terminal-custom-for-marui-next-generation-hk416d-ebb.html  When you install this kit the bar on the end has a cut out and hole, you can thread wire through and soldier with ease and fit is much cleaner as its inside the stock out of sight and has a pre made block, you then simply soldier on deans or mini deans.  Theres no other use for this kit that i can think of.

 

6. Your own battery solution, some front wire, some fit there own stock and batterys, some peq, some do full stock and large battery.  Players are comfortable enough now to pretty much do anything with the sopmod platform as shown in this months issue of ai by ben.  

 

7. Upgrades - You can fit upgrades to get around the low power issue.  If the guns easier to cycle then it will be less strain on the battery pack, so you wouldn't need to upgrade said pack.  This can be in the form of many different ways like a reshim, high toqure gears, high torque motor, internal upgrades for smoother operation, a mosfet, gold termainal bars and stock block.  You could even go as far as a gold plated blade for the swtich set! or graphite paste from progress for better transfer of electricity.  

 

Example might be this mosfet in a sopmod,

 

 

standard 8.4v pack but with a high torque motor and mosfet.  Making it sounds very useable for a skirmish and much more lively.  Yet no battery upgrade has been done, again youd have to way up effort, skill to perform and cost.

 

Theres no one perfect solution, some are personal preference wanting to stick with the quick change packs for instance, or for others its simply a cost issue, ie they just scraped the pennies for the aeg its self, and the thought of 70 quid for a battery solution is not a keen prospect.. your choice could also be based on what you are capable of etc as snoopy mentioned.  Lots of options, none really considered the ultimate option.  Just many ways to skin a cat.

Edited by Richard Y
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To make this option a little more professional you can buy this http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/prometheus-gold-stock-terminal-custom-for-marui-next-generation-hk416d-ebb.html  When you install this kit the bar on the end has a cut out and hole, you can thread wire through and soldier with ease and fit is much cleaner as its inside the stock out of sight and has a pre made block, you then simply soldier on deans or mini deans.  Theres no other use for this kit that i can think of.

 

I've been meaning to ask - if you install that into a SOPMOD stock, with the stock cover (the one that mimics the end of the battery) fit over it? Obviously I don't want exposed wires when running LiPos.

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se5ehe3y.jpg

 

A better picture of the spare tm sopmod4 battery I had. Decided to bin the nimh cells on my second marui 8.4v 1300mah sopmod battery pack in favor of the turnigy 7.4v 1200mah 25c lipo.

 

The three wires used for balancing had to be clipped to fit the lipo. I can reattach the connector if need be. I doubt I'll need to anyway as its just a 7.4v battery.

 

Rich...I have an older battery charger. Its the first gen triton charger which charges and tops off slowly.

 

No real write up for a how to and detailed pictures as far as steps to take when doing the mod. I think the end product kinda gives you the idea as to how to go about it.

 

Things of note when doing the mod...

 

1. remove the middle posts that are used for screws to go into to clamp down on the casing.

 

2. Remove the cells and wiring. Be careful when removing them from where they are attached.

 

3. Note the polarity...maybe this should have been number two. Lol

 

4. Clip excess wiring...solder the red/black wiring into the connector first.

 

5. Apply solder on the ends of the metal piece that runs up the "bridge".

 

6. Clip the black wiring to length and solder em to the ends of the metal piece that runs through the bridge. Do the same for the other.

 

7. Close the casing. You'll only be using 4 screws.

 

You may or may not want to use super glue to seal the battery into the casing.

 

Im not responsible for what happens to those who attempt to do the same mod that I performed for my gun.

 

The write up above is just not an FYI. Its a short cut guide on how to go about the mod. It is actually relatively easy to do.

 

Now im waiting for a tienly high torque (green label) motor. That should improve the trigger response without jacking up my rof way high. Anything over 13rps and below 20 rps is perfectly fine with me. I actually want it in the 15-17 rps range. Will report back when I install the motor.

 

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The three wires used for balancing had to be clipped to fit the lipo. I can reattach the connector if need be. I doubt I'll need to anyway as its just a 7.4v battery.

 

As a player who knows how to charge and use lipos but b****er all else about them I thought balancing them was the big thing when charging them to keep them working efficiently ?
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The three wires used for balancing had to be clipped to fit the lipo.

 

Hadn't realised you did that, there's actually space for it in there, if you looked at the bad picture of the one I made, you can just about see the white connector on the top of the black plug. I'll see if I could get my friend who I made the battery for to take a picture from that angle. 

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One of the wires wasn't long enough to be rerouted on my batteries. I decided to just scrap it. Didn't want to modify the casing further more.

 

My buddy told me that if I notice the batteries not lasting longer than before...that I should get the battery balanced. I've been using Hyperion lipo batteries the past 4 years and have never used a balancer on them with no ill effects that has been noticed.

 

Edit:

 

Looking at the photo of you pack, I can see your balancing plug now.

 

I'll have to look into doing more mods on the pack to allow for the balancing plugs to be accommodated. It may not be any time soon but I'll definitely look into it.

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by sacairsoftsn00py
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I've been meaning to ask - if you install that into a SOPMOD stock, with the stock cover (the one that mimics the end of the battery) fit over it? Obviously I don't want exposed wires when running LiPos.

 

to install the block which comes with the kit you would have to remove the quick change connector block on the end of the stock ngm4-112 if memory serves.  so if anything you now have more space.  Obviously on the sopmod.. theres now a gap in the stock though.. so you can see wires where the quick change bat would normally cover.  Unless you fashion A cover, or half inch one from a trigger talk adaptor maybe.

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Yep, I figured that block would replace the entire QD assembly. Once you've screwed the block into place, completely covering the slot where the contact bar tray slides into, where do the wires emerge from? Is the block hollow and the wires emerge from the top edge of it, or what?

 

I figured that even if you could reseat the stock plug (i.e., if the Prometheus block is thinner than or equal to the original QD assembly, so the plug fits as normal) the plug obstructs any attempt to put wires through. Blobface is hot on the case 3D printing me a sort of hollow version of the stock plug to match the Prometheus plug so the wires are covered and it looks like you have an original battery in there.

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