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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG

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As far as Semi-Lockup, switch to a high torque motor and reduce resistance if you can.

 

As far as ROF lowering, likely your motor's gotten a bit dirty and burnt from usage, either clean the comm or replace. Cleaning the comm is easy IIRC Maekii on Youtube has an excellent guide.

Great tip!

 

Edit: I cant believe this thread is 5 years old

Edited by Honzo

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Yeah crazy that next gen guns have been out this long now and this threads been going strong since then.

 

The fact that there's still users running original internals after 3 plus years and some still on 8.4v really speaks volumes about this gun and this platform.

 

As with anything though there are many that have had issues with stock tm gears as early as 6 months to 1 year in.

 

As said above by mega, although the tm eg1000 is a great gun, the Sopmod is a torquey gun, I think it benefits more from extra efficiency upgrades like high torque motors and high torque gear sets, especially with limited bat space even when changing to lipo.

 

Ill make some more recoil springs soon, promise and I can certainly enquire about whether any Sirius sets are available .. The Cnc stuff can be limited availability sometimes.

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Never had any issues but there's always a chance of a manufacturing defect or damage on route. Might be stating the obvious but all new barrels need cleaning.

 

I find the actual cut to be a little small on the promy I enlarge it a little with a file, maybe there's burrs around the entrance. If you can drop a bb down it with it in your hand no reason why it shouldn't in the gun unless the hop unit or nozzle are introducing issues

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Hey, i got a problem. I just received my marui m4, shot semi first, no problems. Then i did some Full Auto Bursts, and after the 4th or 5th burst the gun stopped firing, the magazine was empty and the bolt catch jammed in place, and i cant push it back to normal position. I didnt open the gun yet, i only looked at the hop up entry where the bbs get into, and there seems to be the nozzle that blocks the entry. Wtf? Again, i never opened a marui next gen, and i dont want to break anything...

 

BTW, it's a front wired sopmod.

Edited by KyleKatarn

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It's a front-wired SOCOM, or it's a front-wired SOPMOD? If it was designed to be like that (SOCOM), fair enough. If you bought the gun second-hand and it's been front-wired by a previous owner (SOPMOD), that's different - it's quite a tricky job and messing it up can cause all sorts of problems.

 

My suggestion is to pull the upper and see what's up inside.

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Hey, i got a problem. I just received my marui m4, shot semi first, no problems. Then i did some Full Auto Bursts, and after the 4th or 5th burst the gun stopped firing, the magazine was empty and the bolt catch jammed in place, and i cant push it back to normal position. I didnt open the gun yet, i only looked at the hop up entry where the bbs get into, and there seems to be the nozzle that blocks the entry. Wtf? Again, i never opened a marui next gen, and i dont want to break anything...

 

BTW, it's a front wired sopmod.

Sometimes just pulling hard on the bolt catch via the mag well very hard is enough, failing that you'll have to go in do a visual inspection and reset all the parts back to normal.

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Sometimes just pulling hard on the bolt catch via the mag well very hard is enough, failing that you'll have to go in do a visual inspection and reset all the parts back to normal.

 

One thing i didnt tell yet, im using a 230fps spring (only way to legally shoot it full auto *sigh*) and a 7.4v 1300, could that have caused a motor overspin? Its already on its way to the seller, but when i pulled the trigger on semi (with no battery plugged in, because i didnt want to break anything), it made some click sound, and after selecting full auto, the trigger sounded normal when pulling it. The loading nozzle was blocking the BB entry. Did i damage the gun with that or what else could have happened? :/

Edited by KyleKatarn

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well it sounds like its pre modded with a spring at 230 i e the shop has done work before you got it.. theres now a million things it could be. could be a shim fell off when they put the top half on, ive seen pistons installed up side down and backwards...

 

as to the effect of a shorter spring sure.. could be introducing new issues.. though if others are running it then it should work only time and testing will tell from your end.

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So I bit the bullet and after meeting the eagle6 gun tech at urban assault I decided to take her in. After s couple of hours and a couple of teas she's all fixed up and firing lovely. He even fixed a couple of issues regarding the wiring and soldering, and threw in a rewire to dean's. I'm still using 8.4v batteries but even so the single shot is a lot tastier. Especially with the e6 recoil spring upgrade.

 

Now my one last desire is to get a Magpul receiver, however short of a custom job a while back, I've never seen this done..

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Has anyone had any joy retro fitting the ambi fire selector from the 416 into the m4? I think I recall reading that the relevant holes are there to allow the its to fit...?

 

As for a report on my SOCOM: it's about 4 years old now (I think it was may 2009 I got it...) it's undergone several cosmetic changes and was slowly upgraded bit by bit until about 8 months ago when eagle 6 did the full prommy internal upgrade. The OEM gars showed signs of wear as did the pinion but nothing you wouldn't expect from good use.

 

Guns shooting really well and accurately, some feeding issues, but I'm finding ts only with certain mags, tried cleaning them, improved some but still occasional misfeeds, just lets me replicate stoppages! Lol.

 

Currently about to fit one of the new madbull VTAC rails and shorten the barrel to 10.5". Already have a separate upper set us as a dimaco.

 

Also picked up the ARS buffer tube and and associated parts as the OEM buffer tube threads thinned out. I did order the up rated recoil parts also but they weren't in stock when I ordered, will hopefully gt hem one day.

 

Only thing left will be to replace the trigger contacts with which ever FET etc gets released first.

Edited by Number5

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As far as I'm aware, Number5, the relevant holes (dirty great circular cutouts in the sides of the lower receiver) aren't there in the SOPMOD, but I'd be happy to be proven wrong (my gun's at my tech's, far, far away from me and my camera). The gearbox doesn't look any different so fingers crossed on that one not needing attention (I'm also investigating the retro-fit). Did you order the ARS stuff from Echigoya? I want to try someone's SURUS before I lay down £200 for one...

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It'd be a shame if the GB didn't have the required cut outs for the ambi selector, ill have to have a look.

I did get the ARS stuff from Echigoya. There was a sale on buying the buffer and SURUS stuff at the same time, but the SURUS parts were out of stock, good service though from Echigoya. The buffer tube and bits are very well made.

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sounds like pauls been working his magic again ;)

 

He had indeed :)

 

--

 

On a slight downer however, one issue we noticed when she was layed bare was that the trigger was sticking.. the issue was solved with some lubricant however it seems to have reared its ugly head again.

 

Essentially, squeezing the trigger gently all the way back will not fire the gun, you have to pull the trigger to get the contacts to meet. Any quick fix for this issue?

 

Cheers.

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Anyone knows which wrench tool besides the one from laylax (which is a bit pricey :/) is compatible with the sopmod? I got some AR15 tools here, but none of them fit unfortunately  :( Would appreciate some advice here.

Edited by KyleKatarn
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He had indeed :)

 

--

 

On a slight downer however, one issue we noticed when she was layed bare was that the trigger was sticking.. the issue was solved with some lubricant however it seems to have reared its ugly head again.

 

Essentially, squeezing the trigger gently all the way back will not fire the gun, you have to pull the trigger to get the contacts to meet. Any quick fix for this issue?

 

Cheers.

you can try and just work it back and forth until its free moving, however if it keeps persisting then they will need to be opened up. Used to happen all the time when i was doing it. Too the degree i used to never play with the contacts ie try and make them tighter for a better connection. All it would do was tempt fate.

 

roll on the mosfets is all i can say lol... if any company ever truely did a decent one for sopmodm4 they would get a whole bunch of my monies..

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Anyone knows which wrench tool besides the one from laylax (which is a bit pricey :/) is compatible with the sopmod? I got some AR15 tools here, but none of them fit unfortunately  :( Would appreciate some advice here.

 

 

They are all pricey.. its like a right of passage for sopmod owners..

 

Seriously though i stock mostly laylax becuase 1. They support the sopmod platform more than any other brand so i support them.  2. They have much better availability of stock than most brands .. i can usually always keep stock of there stuff.  Other brands are harder to source and keep stock of.  The lonex for instance.. pain in the butt.  3.  They are high quality so theres less chance of 2 in 10 being broken if i order in bulk.

 

The way i figure it the more sales laylax see specifically for next gen stuff they more they will want to create and its a pain in the butt trying to source original tm.. so even one extra part from laylax no matter how small helps us out.

 

example they released a pack of screws for the tm scar.. for the outside of the gun... i mean im sure with some effort some one could probably get some from ebay but its the ease of it.  having it on a shelf ready.  Every part you need for a years softing with a next gen.. thats what i wanna see.  with good availability.

Edited by Richard Y
  • Like 1

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Anyone knows which wrench tool besides the one from laylax (which is a bit pricey :/) is compatible with the sopmod? I got some AR15 tools here, but none of them fit unfortunately :( Would appreciate some advice here.

The G&P stock tube wrench fits.

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Lol I'm not holding my breath for the fets !!! I've already emailed about being a dealer a week ago and shock !!! I've been ignored. Not exactly a good start is it. Especially since I would be ordering 100 - 200 units. That's not chump change and he can't manage a reply or eta.

 

Looks like if they do come out you'll have to source from the states.

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well it sounds like its pre modded with a spring at 230 i e the shop has done work before you got it.. theres now a million things it could be. could be a shim fell off when they put the top half on, ive seen pistons installed up side down and backwards...

 

as to the effect of a shorter spring sure.. could be introducing new issues.. though if others are running it then it should work only time and testing will tell from your end.

Okay, just stripped the SOCOM and solved the problem. It now runs with a standard Marui Next Gen spring and I did the energy reduction in another way. The problem was that normally a 7,4 V LiPo is not to strong... in this case it was. The complete wiring was set to minimum resistance including Deans connector and I even removed the fuse resulting in a GBB like response time. But in combination with a 0,5 joule spring this is the same as running a standard Next Gen on 10,8 or  even12 Volt.

 

I knew about this, when I built the weapon for my own purpose but I am normally using 8,4 NiMh batteries and only fire short bursts or semi.

 

Now what happened? After some magazines the piston teeth where massively stripped and even the sector gear had some wear-off. The weapon was so fast it stripped teeth number 3, 4 and 5.... number 4 was the most damaged one. If it ha been just a little bit to fast it should have effected number 1 and 2.

 

The Socom will be of to Kyle tomorrow or so :)

 

And I agree with Richard: Get the Laylax tool. Fits perfectly and the price is no match compared to a broken stock tube or front set ;)

Edited by Boba_Fett

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its handy becuase it does the front and back of the gun.  You never know if you want to change or tighten the front end.  The best solution for RIS wobble is often to completely remove said front end. And in the process of putting it back on youll fix any wobble.

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