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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG

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Also,

Is there a video or images to convert the contact bars to deans?  Am I still using the QD battery packs or strictly using the lipos with no mods to it. Couldnt I just cut off the whole conector on the tube and wire it all to deans or is that a bad idea?

 

 

 

 

Does this come with the connectors that I need compared to the prometheus? Or is it just the two bars in the photo? 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/diamond-ring-efficient-stock-rot-for-marui-sopmod-m4-cqbr.html

 

 

There are many many places listing the lipo convertors for the sopmods now... especially for those new top sopmods you dont want to be soldiering anything.. just buy a convertor and it will save you messing about.  Also soldiering devalues the gun for any potential buyer in the future.

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fyi - to fit the recoil spring you only need to remove the stock and unscrew the end cap on the stock tube and remove old spring and drop in new spring.. 5mins, its a worth while upgrade for anyone not running original 8.4v bats..

 

I'm gonna stop giving advice - wrong twice in two days! I've only ever done it the invasive way 'cuz we had to have the gearbox out anyway. I know that the Echigoya 'upgraded spring' is a lot softer than the Eagle6 one; will it still be worth it for zushiku?

 

There are many many places listing the lipo convertors for the sopmods now... especially for those new top sopmods you dont want to be soldiering anything.. just buy a convertor and it will save you messing about.  Also soldiering devalues the gun for any potential buyer in the future.

 

Definitely you don't want to solder connections to the buffer tube, but I don't agree that buying a converter is the best solution. With a converter, you have ten unsoldered connections between the motor and the battery's cells. If you pull the original QD system and set it to one side (i.e., so the work is completely reversible and won't affect any future value) and replace it with a soldered contact bar, you cut that to just four unsoldered connections. Quite a few people in this thread (myself included) found that the decreased resistance gave a worthwhile boost in rps.

Edited by PureSilver

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I'm gonna stop giving advice - wrong twice in two days! I've only ever done it the invasive way 'cuz we had to have the gearbox out anyway. I know that the Echigoya 'upgraded spring' is a lot softer than the Eagle6 one; will it still be worth it for zushiku?

 

 

Definitely you don't want to solder connections to the buffer tube, but I don't agree that buying a converter is the best solution. With a converter, you have ten unsoldered connections between the motor and the battery's cells. If you pull the original QD system and set it to one side (i.e., so the work is completely reversible and won't affect any future value) and replace it with a soldered contact bar, you cut that to just four unsoldered connections. Quite a few people in this thread (myself included) found that the decreased resistance gave a worthwhile boost in rps.

 

Theres a billion things you could do for more RPS .. more effciencey.. where do you draw the line. Hes a new player and even if he isnt not everyone wants to soldier there guns in fact very few do. I always have to think what can everyone do not what can a few do, not everyone is after every last ounce of effeciencey. Lesson learned the hard way for me im afraid, everything i sell now has to be plug and play ... easy fit.

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I have a few questions about upgrading. I have the 416 but it is pretty much the same as the sopmod internally:

- if I upgrade every part in the gearbox would the Eagle6 110 spring reach around 390-400 FPS?

- can the Eagle6 recoil spring be used with the stock gun or should I only put it in an upgraded gun?

- I bought the Lonex next gen gears. What motor would be the best? Would a Lonex A2 be too much?

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Can you change the spring guide by also just unscrewing the stock pipe end?

 

Nope youll need to take the stock pipe off by unsoldiering the wiring and feeding it through the spacer ring.. then unscrewing the stock tube.

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I have a few questions about upgrading. I have the 416 but it is pretty much the same as the sopmod internally:

- if I upgrade every part in the gearbox would the Eagle6 110 spring reach around 390-400 FPS?

- can the Eagle6 recoil spring be used with the stock gun or should I only put it in an upgraded gun?

- I bought the Lonex next gen gears. What motor would be the best? Would a Lonex A2 be too much?

Yeah sounds about right for an m110

 

i would only use the upgraded recoil spring with a lipo battery or 9.6v sopmod pack.

 

any motor will be fine.. high torque of course.

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Anyway to fix the sopmod if it is shooting full auto only?

 

new cut off lever.. new selector plate.. new gears if your still using tm ones..

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Yeah sounds about right for an m110

 

i would only use the upgraded recoil spring with a lipo battery or 9.6v sopmod pack.

 

any motor will be fine.. high torque of course.

 

Thanks. Im already using 7.4 lipos, so it should be okay.

 

does anyone stil have issues with mags not cutting off the guns or is this a thing of the past ?  TM mags by the way...

 

Never had that problem, however I had multiple mags have their BB followers stuck, but those were fixed by cleaning and lubing a little the magazines.

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does anyone stil have issues with mags not cutting off the guns or is this a thing of the past ?  TM mags by the way...

 

Actually i had this problem directly after my first dissembley. I did noticed that i had to do with the skrew that goes into the gearbox that holds the cutting lever thingy got worn out and dident lock tight.

So the mechanism that was suppose to catch the lever from the magazine was all loose. I fixed this by change the screw and put a rubberspacer under the head of the screw to get some extra downforce. Now that works like a charm!

 

 

The only problem that i can´t seem to get to work i the blowback slide that seems to scratch against the body inside. so when i pull the charging handle the metalslide locks in back position. U Guys got any tips for this issue? 

Please let me know if my explication is bad.

 

 

//zlappe 

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project almost done, but i still need some help on the stock.I´ve tried several models and none seem to fit properly.could anyone list options?considering that stock must hose a lipo battery on it.besides the recoil system on the tube.

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Actually i had this problem directly after my first dissembley. I did noticed that i had to do with the skrew that goes into the gearbox that holds the cutting lever thingy got worn out and dident lock tight.

So the mechanism that was suppose to catch the lever from the magazine was all loose. I fixed this by change the screw and put a rubberspacer under the head of the screw to get some extra downforce. Now that works like a charm!

 

 

The only problem that i can´t seem to get to work i the blowback slide that seems to scratch against the body inside. so when i pull the charging handle the metalslide locks in back position. U Guys got any tips for this issue?

Please let me know if my explication is bad.

 

 

//zlappe

 

on problem sopmods or ones with a front wire conversion id sand back the inside of the upper receiver and then just spray it with a touch of black paint. You prob dont need to spray it if its lubed up though. just freees that slide up a little for a smoother action.

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So current issue, 

The gun is not firing, it sounds like the motor is clicking but nothing shoots.

The only mod I currently did is change out the gold bars with prometheus ones.

 

Can anyone help me with this issues?

Edited by zushiku

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So current issue, 

The gun is not firing, it sounds like the motor is clicking but nothing shoots.

The only mod I currently did is change out the gold bars with prometheus ones.

 

Can anyone help me with this issues?

 

You reversed the contacts for the motor.

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I'd check your battery's charge (and, given the above, try various permutations of switching the contact bars/contacts on the motor around). If that doesn't work, try jumping the gun directly through the contacts on the stock tube to eliminate problems one at a time. Are the contact bars making good contact with the contracts on the stock tube?

Edited by PureSilver

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Battery charge is fine, tried it with a lipo nothing either

The contact bars are fine. I took the motor out to see if it would spin and it did, also attempted to lift up the anti reversal latch to fix the gears but nothing worked either.

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With a busted piston I'm not surprised nothing's working - yeesh! I would say that a broken piston could easily be the reason for your difficulties. Check for damage to the other components very carefully before reassembling - especially check for lumps of the ex-piston inside the 'box.

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