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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG

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Shim first. Remove the fuse later after testing your gun.

 

Do check your whole system though. I'm sure it's a combinatio of a lot of things. If you do that at least you will have every base covered.

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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Even though I front wired my SOPMOD to a PEQ to allow for slimmer stocks, a friend recently bought a TM HK416, made this for him out of my old and un-used quick change battery and it works great! and I'd like to thank Richard of Eagle6 for the idea!

 

I do have to add... it wasn't fun making it fit. 

 

battery-mod.jpg

Edited by blobface

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Cheers for the suggestions. I'll take another look at the shimming. I did spend a while on it last time round and followed the guide, but I'll freely admit it's probably not my greatest strength. Not certain what I can do if there's an air leak from nozzle to hop - I can't exactly move it closer. I did forget to mention I have a complete spare hop/barrel assembly that I also tested it with and got much the same fps, which is why I didn't suspect leaking hop, etc as a cause. Oh well, nothing on this morning, I'll break out the screwdrivers...

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Right. Have taken 1mm shim out. I think the shimming is actually largely ok, but we'll see. M110 downgraded to M100. More importantly, air leak identified between cylinder and cylinder head. Wrapped with PTFE.

Intermittent electrical fault when trying to fire, tracked down to the fuse holder having been stretched by the ghetto fuse, hence making intermittent contact. While identifying this also noted melted plastic in this area, which is most likely the smoke (judging by blueing on the fuse holder).

 

Reassembled and tested, 325-330 on stock barrel, 335-345 on 6.02 407mm barrel, which is much more like it. :)

 

The only issue I now have is I've managed to lose/mangle the two screws that hold the wire cover rail on (underneath the sliding stock). Can anyone advise on sizes/replacements for these?

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If you have that much of a variance you still have a leak somewhere (or you are using poor quality BBs), fuses shouldn't blow for no reason and the holder shouldn't get that hot, you have a massive point of resistance somewhere, bad shimming (both too tight and poor alignment), shimming isn't just about removing excessive end-play on your gear shafts it is also about properly alignment of the gears. Don't do it the old way look into bevel first shimming you'll get a better gear mesh and its a quicker process.

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Check your shimming if you are blowing fuses, but it sounds like you need more torque, I'd ditch the fuse, upgrade the wiring, and clean the trigger contacts, and if you can drop in a MOSFET, then drop in a Lonex A1 or A2 or modify your EG1000.

Modern motors negate the need for Torque gearsets.

mega may i ask if 7.4v batteries will handle a Lonex motor well? i have not tried theirs but have heard some strong motors will kill low voltage batteries easily. Not quite sure if it is true.

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hey all,

 

I'm in the process of making my sopmod into a dmr rifle.  Alls going well so far, just waiting on parts.  Trying to decide on what stock to go with though.  I'm front wiring it so no worries on battery. 

 

Now I'd love to get a magpul UBR stock on there, have been told that the ggb version would work.  Anyone know if this is the case?  I have a spare stock tube, so if i means taking off all of the protruding metal to make it a smooth cylinder then thats cool, just after some confirmation before i drop 140quid on a stock.

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mega may i ask if 7.4v batteries will handle a Lonex motor well? i have not tried theirs but have heard some strong motors will kill low voltage batteries easily. Not quite sure if it is true.

 

I've never heard of that happening ever,

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Does anyone know where I can source a replacement stock tube? Everywhere I've looked either is out of stock or doesn't sell them.

 

Cheers

 

Nvm: turns out echigoya had one left in stock.

Edited by Krazeh

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Just deciding what to mod on my Sopmod. First thing to go is the grip as I find them uncomfortable. Can anyone recommend a good replacement please? Then next will be a Laylax ring and Asap if I can find one in stock at a reasonable price!

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you need to buy the metal bottom plate for the MOE grips. The plastic bottom it comes with has motor alignment issues

 

MIADs I believe come with the metal plate as standard if you buy the kit (as in the one that comes with various front/backing combos) but don't take my word as gospel on this bit.

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What blam has said is correct, but the metal baseplate is a separate item. The MIAD grip comes with a plastic base. On the upside though, once you have the metal base plate you can sell your spare MIAD grip and plastic base plate and recoup the cost of the metal base (the MIAD kit comes with two grips).

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Thanks guys. Managed to pick up an MOE grip with metal plate from the bay.

Also have managed to fit, with a bit of modding, a Magpul ACS stock and fitted it with 7.4v LiPo battery.

 

20130530_173951_zps85094562.jpg

 

20130530_173702_zps31c2d42d.jpg

 

20130530_174009_zps0f36e502.jpg

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Stock closes all the way and also has full extension. I removed the contact bar and contacts and soldered the cable onto the ends (in case I wanted to reverse it). I made a hole in the middle of the stock big enough for the deans connectors to go through. The pods at the side were removed and then a 19mm HSS drill put down and finished off with a file so the batteries fit nicely. I cut a groove for the cables to go through and passed the deans connector into the "storage" area. Plenty of slack for extension and I can pull out the connectors from the little door.

 

 

 

20130530_173806_zpse831881f.jpg

20130530_173738_zps95083ee6.jpg

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Ah - from the above photo I see why; the ACS is longer than most other stocks. The vast majority of stocks are designed to be as flexible as possible (that is, extendible from the shortest to longest length); they're designed so that when fully collapsed (the 'smallest' position on the receiver extension) the end of receiver extension hits the end of the inside of the stock, the limiting factor upon the smallest a stock can physically be. The last few centimeters of your ACS' internal cylinder is obstructed by those two rubber tabs sticking into it; there's no way the receiver extension can pass those, so it must be that the front of the ACS hits the castle nut before the receiver extension hits those tabs. With at least that length of the stock's internal cylinder never filled by receiver extension (even at full collapse) your wires have plenty of room to bunch up inside the cylinder.

 

A quick look at MagPul's site confirms this - at full collapse the ACS is over an inch longer than the CTR, and all of that inch is available inside for wires to bunch up. It's a shame that you couldn't get it so that the Deans connectors stayed in the upper portion (rather than the storage box) as I'm guessing that you now need a screwdriver to remove the buttplate to get at the batteries?

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I have nun chuck batteries, so I would have to remove the buttplate anyway. Having the connectors where they are means I can connect and disconnect easily.

First time out with it tomorrow and looking forward to it. Just ordered my Laylax spanner and lock ring from Fire Support today and received my ASAP today. Another job for next week.

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