blobface Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) Blobface is hot on the case 3D printing me a sort of hollow version of the stock plug to match the Prometheus plug so the wires are covered and it looks like you have an original battery in there. I wouldn't say hot... more like.. lukewarm, sort of like comfortable drinking temperature.. for those with sensitive tongues.. Edited February 7, 2014 by blobface 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 370-80 fps with .20g bbs. Cut down a random spring. Prommy Nozzle, SHS Gear Set, Magic Box 5.9mm metal bushings, Tienly 3000 Torque Motor, 7.4v 1200mah 25c lipo. Trigger response is significantly better with the motor over the stock eg1000 motor. I did yank out the tienly steel pinion gear in favor of the stock tm pinion gear off of the marui motor. Result was a smoother sounding gun. With the eg1000 motor, I was getting about 11.8 rps at 370-80 fps with .20g bbs and the 7.4v 1200mah 25c lipo. Fyi... A guarder sp100 spring cut down to stock spring length with where the coils are tighter removed...I was getting 320 fps with stock everything else Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Trigger response is significantly better with the motor over the stock eg1000 motor. Awesome, I've been looking into the new Tienly motors as well, might get one for my SOPMOD too, mine's reached a point where I feel that my screw drivers are more magnetic than it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Yup. Its pretty good for people who like quick trigger response without jacking up the rof by a lot. With the marui pinion gear, the gun sounds like it was a stock marui...just a louder pop. Motor is supposedly rated for 20-22 rps with an m120 and 12 volts....possibly an 11.1v lipo. Pulls up to an m190 spring. The medium torque/speed supposedly puts out about 25-27 with an m120 and 11.1...pulls up to a 170 spring...or was it 150...hmm The high speed does 30-32. Newest torque/speed does 35-37 with an m120 spring. Same battery as the rest. Those are factory spec afaik. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Pretender Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hi guys, just after some advise on removing the front sight post, I have punched the 2 pins out however there still seems to be something holding it in place. I have looked at the bottom where there is normally a allen screw but there's nothing there. Could anyone help with with what I need to do to get the sight off? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I was stumped by that as well. I'm pretty sure that there is actually a set screw in the bottom of the FSB holding it to the outer barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Yank out the inner barrel. Stick the hex driver up the screw hole under the front sight. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Pretender Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Thanks for the answers guys. Worked it out in the end. Now have a urx4 fitted just need to sort out the shimming of it to the receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Manxmadman Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 So having read most of this monster thread (not all by any means), I'm pretty confident that this will work but could use some confirmation (diving into the recoil range for the first time soon). I plan on grabbing the SOCOM and the Madbull DD 12.5inch RIS II and then going for the following Lipo within the rail: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-25c-cranestock-battery.html Is this going to fit/work? Seen plenty of other rails with lipos within so I assume it'll work, but just looking for an experienced yes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Its on the thicker side for easier use. I had a similar battery in my madbull DD 9.5" rail, I was using a FF/Laylax 10.5" outer barrel. Check out hobbyking.com for some turnigy 7.4v 1200mah 25c nunchuck type lipo. They are about 4mm skinnier and would fit better. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Manxmadman Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Ah cheers for the advice. Something like this seems more ideal then: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__44772__Turnigy_nano_tech_1200mAh_2S_25_50C_Lipo_AIRSOFT_Pack_EU_warehouse_.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
christhesecond Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 After upgrading the spring in my 416D, I went to take the upper off the lower to change the inner barrel and the front body pin is stuck firm. It bushes about 1mm then does not move. I've put as much force into it as I'm willing to without risking breaking the receiver. I've tried pushing the receivers together, pulling them apart etc etc but it just won't budge. Anyone else had this problem/have a solution? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JCheeseright Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Yep, I had the exact same problem, there's a little c-clip on the pin to retain it and sometimes it slips. I sent my gun to fire-support to get it open and they broke the lower receiver removing the pin. Thankfully they replaced it free of charge! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
christhesecond Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Praying for other solutions! Lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Odd. Theres a metal ring around the middle area of rhe pin that acts as a stop. Hopefully you did t have some sort of accudent where the ring came undone and then wedging itself in between the upper/lower receiver pin holes. If thats the case, I dont think theres getting to the messed up ring to safely remove the pin. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
druid799 Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 (edited) Afraid I had a similar event , the split ring had come out of its Chanel and jammed the pin in and I had to lump it out with a hammer and punch . What I did was get a scrap piece of wood drilled a hole the size of the pin head laid the reciever down on it to knock the pin out and support the whole reciever at the same time (to avoid excess stress on it and risk cracking the reciever) and luckily it worked ok ! Edited February 24, 2014 by druid799 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
christhesecond Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Excellent advice cheers. Will try that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 as druid says, brace the lower, it brakes usually from the hammer forcing one side away from the other side then a crack forms, so just try and hit it against something soft so the two sides of the lower don't split apart. This seems to be common on tm 416 .. weird as the frame body pin is the same as the sopmod one just a different pattern on the end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hatchet Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 I think I may have *finally* had a breakthrough in why my sopmod keeps locking the gearbox when using an upgraded spring. It's absolutely nothing to do with shimming, motor height, pistole grip, electrical supply, stock tube, etc. It's to do with the piston/piston head. This can be replicated by taking the gearbox all the way down, so you just have the piston and the empty half of the shell. Then, use your thumb to push the piston hard against it's rails as you slowly draw it back. There's a lip on the piston head that sets how far back it can go. However, on mine, with side pressure as above (like you'd get with an uprated spring, but not a normal one) it stops fractionally before that.This happens even if you have the cylinder in place. What this is doing is preventing the piston from being drawn back any further, so it can't clear the last tooth and release. Of course, when you use a lower powered spring, this doesn't happen. And when you test in the gearbox without one, it all seems fine. It also explains why I could sometimes get it working again with a sharp smack to the side - the sideways blow was making the caught piston head jump clear of the lip and allowing it to travel back that fraction further and release. The next step is to work out why this is happening. Is it something I've done with an aftermarket upgrade, is it wear to the parts, etc or do I just have a fractionally miscast gearbox shell or cylinder (which might also explain the below average fps readings). However I feel *massively* relieved and really think this might be the solution to my problems. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Not sure what part you mean, can you take photos and maybe point an arrow to where you mean, i have 2x gearbox's open here i will do are parts comparison. it probably still happens with a lower power spring its just the bat and motor have enough guts to move past it. Edited March 3, 2014 by Richard Y Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hatchet Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Will do. I should have some time on Thursday to dig out the camera, etc and try to get some decent images. Being the heretic that I am, it did cross my mind that it'd be nice if someone made a non recoil gearbox that would fit inside the shell so you still got to take advantage of the excellent hop, etc... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aod Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 (edited) Hey chaps, I reckon some of you might find this thread interesting; http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/212354-baton-sopmod-lipo-adaptor-internally-lousy/ I think I may have *finally* had a breakthrough in why my sopmod keeps locking the gearbox when using an upgraded spring. It's absolutely nothing to do with shimming, motor height, pistole grip, electrical supply, stock tube, etc. It's to do with the piston/piston head. Are you sure the piston teeth aren't catching on the cut-down sector gear teeth? I've found that that could happen depending on how you've shimmed your sector gear. Incidentally, what battery are you using when you experience the lockups? Will do. I should have some time on Thursday to dig out the camera, etc and try to get some decent images. Being the heretic that I am, it did cross my mind that it'd be nice if someone made a non recoil gearbox that would fit inside the shell so you still got to take advantage of the excellent hop, etc... You could just remove the recoil-weight from the stock tube to get a recoil-free Recoil Shock M4 Edited March 4, 2014 by Aod 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 A very tidy solution to a nasty, hidden problem; I like it! I wish you'd taken some photos before the modification so we could appreciate it in all its craptastic glory, but the little pile of discarded contact bars is close enough! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aod Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Thank you very much Those little contact bars are the only internals, they were loosly press-fit against the deans connectors on one side and loosly press-fit on the little tabs that came out of the contact pads that interface with the stock. Nothing else to it! O.o Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JCheeseright Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 £35 for that! someone somewhere is making a lot of money. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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