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Gunfighters808

Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG

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This is my point though 500 on a gun , hundreds on promy parts happily but sling plate .. 30 quid stuff thAt. It's because of the prolific amount there are from china for aeg, gbb rs .. It's forced the price down and players are used to it, but because there's limited makers for next gen there's high prices still. But this is why it's always a good thing to pimp out your love of next gens, the more players use them the more parts we get.

 

There is a point to the flat sides on the sling mount it stops the stock tube rotating more than a few degrees. They are there for a purpose and a round hole sling point doesn't have it, it's hard for me to ignore. Truth be told you probably wouldn't notice it and it probably wouldn't effect the conscious person working on there aeg ever, but it's that one time you forget the locking rings undone, or your locking rings loose and you twist your stock, that twists your stock tube which tears the wires just a little, enough for a short, and now your defused lipo modded Sopmod next to your face..

 

Though I have been told I over think things. What are the chances of an airsofter making a mistake.

 

I don't think it's wrong modding sling mounts, like it's not wrong fitting an aeg length spring in your next gen. It will work, usually. It's always been up to players what they do. But I can't say it's right either, I can't ignore a design feature even if I personally might choose on my own gun style over a purpose built part.

 

I garrenty not one single person making there sling plates fit was thinking about keeping the sling plate to the same specs as the tm spacer plate. It's basically is the hole big enough for me to slide this on, I know because I modded them my self and didn't think about it.

 

I'm simply saying designers sometimes make something for a reason. And for years I honestly didn't give it a thought till that one time I was twisting and thought .. I Am glad that sling plate stopped that turning.

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I have this but I still needed to file some on the inner sides to fit it on my gun.

Btw I have just installed a new spring(a cut Lonex 120) and noticed that my piston stays kinda in the back after shooting it on semi(instead of entirely in the forward position as it should be). I took the upper receiver off and looked inside where the blowback unit is to see this. The only way to get the piston forward as possible was to shoot it in full-auto and it would go forward enough randomly.

Now I use 11.1v so I was thinking is it possible that on semi the gears just overturn causing the piston to not be in the correct position?

 

Edit: and I just tested with a 7.4v and it works fine with it, so I guess I won't use 11.1v until I finally get a mosfet. :/

Always the chance of over run on 11.1v ..

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i did switcht out the original spring of the gun to a  m100 ( 350 fps now )

so the spring is not stuck on the piston anymore, but if i unscrew the stock tube cap en take out the recoil unit can i get the spring out to ?

or can it not pas the stock tube ?

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gallery_37787_1944_95561.jpg

 

Pretty much done with this (other than needing an inner barrel and wanting a BTC next gen mosfet). Sure, I'd *like* to convert it into a MK12 MOD 0, but that would be at least a couple of hundred quid and would make it less practical to use. Now directly wired and running at 350fps. Rate of fire is greatly improved and trigger spamming without worry of lockups. All it needs now is a field test to prove it.

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It required a custom buffer tube constructing. Shaving down the outside of an existing one, and building a stop ring around it. Go back a page and you can see it. I should point out that bit was done by someone who had access to the right tools and the talent to use them, of which I have neither. Then it was a case of feeding the wires directly from the gearbox to the rear and then soldering.

 

Another upside is it becomes a much quicker quick change spring. Remove stock, unscrew buffer tube, change spring and reassemble. No fiddling with wires or castle nuts.

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If your interested and I recall someone, possibly you, asking about a mk12 SPR outer barrel (dytac version) I have one or sale.

(Sorry for the shameless plug guys)

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Damnit I just found out that the ARS split barrel base wont fit unless the barrel/rail/foreend is kept stock. Anyone know of an Asian retailer that has the First Factory Hard Barrel Base in stock?

 

Also, bit of a shameless plug but since I no longer need it, I'm willing to sell my new in packaging ARS split barrel base for US$20 + shipping.

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Damnit I just found out that the ARS split barrel base wont fit unless the barrel/rail/foreend is kept stock. 

 

?

 

I don't think that's true? I've used both the G&P delta ring for Surefire M500, or the Madbull Troy TRX, with the ARS base, didn't have any issue. 

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so apparently i was a bit hasty with my last post. i was going through this thread yesterday and came across someone saying the ARS barrel base wont fit over aftermarket barrel nuts/rails. i went back to that post just now and whaddaya know, on the next page someone else said that it WILL fit.

 

i was quite off yesterday after i found out it wouldn't fit since i've been researching this build for a while now and couldn't believe i bought a wrong part. i am a happy camper once again. Sorry for potentially confusing anyone.

 

and now with that problem resolved, i think i pretty much have gathered all the necessary parts for this build :D

- TM SOCOM

- SHS hi-torque (although I am thinking about a franken torque since i have a spare TM EG1000 lying around...)

- new bushings

- new spring to up power to 1.5J

- Echigoya hard recoil spring

- prommy purple rubber with flat nub

- prommy EG barrel

- FET

 

Am I missing anything? I'm also wondering whether the SHS gear set a worthwhile upgrade. I'll be running a 7.4v lipo in a PEQ and more concerned with trigger response than ROF.

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Hello all. As a part of the club :) (Got Scar CQC and M4 CQB-R) I encountered some jamming issues with my scar Hornbill gears and Prommy Piston. I changed them to Wii tech high speed gears (was really surprised about the good quality) and they gave me much smoother run and 1000 RPM. Anyone got any info about them  and other WII tech parts (besides hop up that is ######).

 

System specs

 

- Prommy piston

- prommy piston head

- prommy cylinder head

- prommy nozzle

- M110 spring

- prommy guide 

- Wii tech speed gears and anti reversal

 

My output is 380 fps with hop set up and black systema rubber (I think I change it to purple prommy rubber and bridge nub). ITs all in the SCAR but the gearbox except the other way of creating the recoil is the same as SOPMOD. 

Cheers
Rafal 

Edited by Krawata

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I need to repair my old Sopmod, and might also thrown some extra stuff in - so I was wondering, is there a mosfet available for this yet / anymore?

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so apparently i was a bit hasty with my last post. i was going through this thread yesterday and came across someone saying the ARS barrel base wont fit over aftermarket barrel nuts/rails. i went back to that post just now and whaddaya know, on the next page someone else said that it WILL fit.

 

i was quite ###### off yesterday after i found out it wouldn't fit since i've been researching this build for a while now and couldn't believe i bought a wrong part. i am a happy camper once again. Sorry for potentially confusing anyone.

 

and now with that problem resolved, i think i pretty much have gathered all the necessary parts for this build :D

- TM SOCOM

- SHS hi-torque (although I am thinking about a franken torque since i have a spare TM EG1000 lying around...)

- new bushings

- new spring to up power to 1.5J

- Echigoya hard recoil spring

- prommy purple rubber with flat nub

- prommy EG barrel

- FET

 

Am I missing anything? I'm also wondering whether the SHS gear set a worthwhile upgrade. I'll be running a 7.4v lipo in a PEQ and more concerned with trigger response than ROF.

The SHS gear sets are excellent value for money. SHS's MIM techniques are very very good so their MIM parts like the whole recoil M4 gearset are good and strong.

 

A word of caution, a Neo-magnet can + an EG1000 armature (22-tpa) is a very powerful motor, but the rotational speed isn't that fast, certainly, it's faster than a "proper" frankentorque made with a 32-tpa Chaoli armature, but it's still pretty slow on a 7.4v battery. I upgraded an old CA G36 for a customer just yesterday, with a very high speed 13:1 gearset and an EG1000+Neomagnet and the trigger response and RoF were very good, I suspect you might be a little disappointed with the results on the high-torque recoil gearset's ratio.

 

The last Recoil M4 I worked on had a straight SHS High-torque (16-tpa) in it and it worked very nicely, the one before that had a G&P M170s Devil-Jet (I think 17 or 18-tpa) which worked excellently too.

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The SHS gear sets are excellent value for money. SHS's MIM techniques are very very good so their MIM parts like the whole recoil M4 gearset are good and strong.

 

A word of caution, a Neo-magnet can + an EG1000 armature (22-tpa) is a very powerful motor, but the rotational speed isn't that fast, certainly, it's faster than a "proper" frankentorque made with a 32-tpa Chaoli armature, but it's still pretty slow on a 7.4v battery. I upgraded an old CA G36 for a customer just yesterday, with a very high speed 13:1 gearset and an EG1000+Neomagnet and the trigger response and RoF were very good, I suspect you might be a little disappointed with the results on the high-torque recoil gearset's ratio.

 

The last Recoil M4 I worked on had a straight SHS High-torque (16-tpa) in it and it worked very nicely, the one before that had a G&P M170s Devil-Jet (I think 17 or 18-tpa) which worked excellently too.

 

TBH I can't seem to find much info on the SHS gears. Are high torque gear sets? What is the main reason to swap the stock gears for the SHS set? Will there be a noticeable step up in trigger response when using SHS gears + SHS hi torque vs stock gears + SHS hi-torque?

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The SHS gear set is a 100% copy of the stock TM gear set, so is an identical ratio of ~21:1. Trigger response and rate of fire will be unchanged when using it.

 

You should swap to the SHS Gearset because the stock gears are very weak, made of cast zinc and weakly MIM'd steel. They withstand the force of the stock spring without issue, but on 1J+ springs, they can fail quite quickly.

 

The SHS gearset is 100% strong, tough steel and should handle 1.5J+ springs without issue.

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Recently just purchased one of the new batches of ARMY R50's.  Gun came without bolt stop parts and no recoil weight or spring!

 

I thought that the bolt stop issue was fixed on the older batches of the ARMY clones?  And to my knowledge all of the other ARMY recoil's have at least come with the recoil weight and spring? Now it's time to source parts.

Edited by MarsdenH

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bit odd like you say you would have thought it would come with the recoil weigh, i know they have lead inside, maybe it was taken out for rohs reasons.  But at about 100 quid delivered cant complain to much ;) literally 1/4 the price of a tm. 

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Yeah, I think I've discovered the problem.  ARMY now markets two different versions, the Next Gen AEG and the Next Gen recoil.  The regular AEG version is what I received, being slightly cheaper.  No recoil weight or bolt stop, but apart from that, identical.  While I assume the "recoil" versions have the bolt stop and recoil weight.

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If your forward pin fails on your next gen you can make it back alive by using a paperclip bent and trim to fit to the little gap the pin has....

 

Edited by VIPER-GR

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