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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG

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Those go on the sides of the gearbox close to the buffer tube. It is there to prevent any movement of the gearbox, tough they fall out easily when you remove the upper.

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Just wrapping up my first season with my TM recoils - a 416 and a SOPMOD.

 

I went full retard on the 416: prometheus everything, firefly rubber, and a spectre while the SOPMOD remains stock (albeit wired to deans for regular lipos). Aside from the obvious difference the spectre makes, there isn't much of a performance gap between the two. Maybe I need to bump up the springs and start shooting something heavier than .28s to see the difference.

 

With that in mind, I'm going to build the SOPMOD into a MK12 and am looking for the fewest possible upgrades to get to a reasonably accurate shooter at 400fps. I'd like to use some .32s or heavier - they are popular here for cutting through brushy cover and steadiness in the wind.

 

Recommendations for this build?

 

New spring for sure (eagle6 120)

Motor?

Gears?

Inner Barrel?

 

Appreciate your recommendations.

Edited by brock0

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SHS hi Torque motor
SHS/WiiTech Gearset

Prometheus 6/05mm barrel plus an R-hop or a flat hop

Mosfet and Deans connectors

 

Should do you well.

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New upper and lowers coming from Laylax…

http://www.popularairsoft.com/news/cerakote-de-receivers-tm-m4-negs

 

It has been a while since I've tinkered with my SOPMOD, I might have to get a set. I can't read the Japanese Laylax site the story links to but I'm assuming they come in other colours as well as the Magpul approved Dark Earth.

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Looks like everything players have custom-made is eventually released by a manufacturer. I note that the uppers are drilled for a gas tube, unlike the TM ones, but aren't cloverleaf-drilled.

 

You can tell I'm trying to justify the massive expense I had to go to to get effectively these exact items custom made, right?

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Has anyone had problems with the bolt stop mechanisms and found a working solution?

 

Mine is behaving quite strange, first it sporadically failed to activate, then it didn't activate at all and then it activated when the mag was full! I use the Pmags, but the originall mags don't work either. I tried the shrink tube method (shrink tube on magazine lever), which at first made the empty mags activate the bolt stop again but worsened the problem with fulls mags activating the bolt stop. I thought maybe the recoil makes the lever jump up even when the mag is full, so I put a small magnet (5x4x1 mm) under the shrink tube on top of the lever and another one beneath the lever part (under the outer magazine shell), so the lever was always pulled down while the spring was still strong enough to lift the lever when the mag was empty. Unfortunately that did not solve the problem and now the mags were not activating the bolt stop when empty and at the same time! activating the bolt stop when full (I don't even know how that is possible). I have to note that the gun works without problems without a magazine and the gearbox lever can be easily activated with the finger, so I'm sure the problem is not related with my Specter mosfet. Now after closer inspection I feel that the gearbox lever is bit short and there is very little contact area between the gearbox- and magazine levers. But I'm not sure what to do about it or whether this is even the real problem and I'm getting out of ideas. I was thinking about buying a new gearbox lever, but mine looks fine with no visible defects and I'm not sure if a new one will make a difference. 

 

Has anyone had similar problems? 

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Did you disassembled it recently? A reassemble might help. I put a shrink tube on the lever (on the part) that contacts with the mosfet as it wasn't working right for me before.

I have also noticed that in very cold weather (0 celsius or lower) the bolt stop would not work for me pre-mosfet. The small alloy levers might change size slightly in the cold which causes the problem or so I am thinking.

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I think I found the problem. The lever on the gearbox that needs to be pushed up got caught on the little cubic part that is hanging from the gearbox. This part is needed to keep the lever forward once it was activated and before that the lever is resting beside the cube part. But due to the sharp edges there was some resistance to the lever which could be overcome with a finger but the magazine lever was not strong enough. Some filing and sanding took care of that problem and now the bolt stop is activating fine without any shrink tubes. I guess the shrink tube that I had on the magazine levers before was the problem, as it slightly pushed the gearbox lever upwards even when the magazine lever was down (and that with more force than the spring of the lever when it was activated), even more so with the added 1 mm magnet. I also suspect that the magnet on top of the magazine lever was preventing the gearbox lever from being pushed forward, thus creating the paradox situation of the mag lever engaging the bolt stop in the down position but preventing it from activation in the up position.
 

While I was at it I also added the shrink tube to the second gearbox lever that is activating the microswitch on the Spectre (as you suggested), but I don't think this had anything to do with my problem since that lever is only depending on how far forward the first lever is pushed and not on how far up it is pushed, yet the bolt stop was always activating when the first lever was pushed up enough. But I guess I will see how my sanding method will work with my firends Sopmod, since he has the same problem. 

 

Anyhow, thanks for the help!

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Thinking of buying the Daniel Defense RECCE model but hov bad is the wobbel in the front of this gun?

 

Or should i go for the Scar L instead?

 

The M4 has moore appealing and has moore modified options!

Edited by CALLAHAN_88

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Anybody knows the screw size for the retractable stock bar for the buffer tube?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Think they're M2x4mm with a countersunk head.

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The whole line uses the same parts largely, normal airsoft TM spec, which is somewhere close to Mil Spec; generally a smidge slimmer.

 

There aren't many ARs in airsoft that use comm spec, comparatively speaking.

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Well, depends how seamless you want the end result to be and how good you are with various tools.  Also MFT offer many stocks so that doesn't give me anything to work by.  If the stock was a primary concern you'd have been better off with the SOCOM since all the rest are rear wired.

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