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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG

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Wait, if you screw on the tube fully the stock lock hole thingy won't be at the bottom. But the stock spring is partially compressed when the tube is inserted, much like in other AEG gearboxes.

 

I guess conceptually what I mean is this :-

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=190306&view=findpost&p=2380955

 

Not sure if I mentioned it before, but I used something I learned from plumbing when reassembling the gun: wrap the stock tube with vinyl tape. I used electric insulation tape. This will double as a thread lock and makes the threads mesh nice and tight, prolonging thread life.

 

When I get my lower receiver/buffer tube replacement, I've bought some loctite. Hmmm...wouldn't tape make it too thick? Maybe I'm misunderstanding you on how it's used.

Edited by AnakChan

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Re: stock tube, my bad. Didn't notice the part that you used a "normal" spring. But I still think it would be risky to use a usual spring in there.

 

When I get my lower receiver/buffer tube replacement, I've bought some loctite. Hmmm...wouldn't tape make it too thick? Maybe I'm misunderstanding you on how it's used.

I guess I haven't explained enough. When you put tape around threads of water pipes for example, you stretch the tape so that it will go between the threads. Same with the TM M4 EBB. It will indeed make the tube thicker, but it will depend on how thick the tape is before and after stretching. It's a trial and error process on how thick you need to lay it. Do this and you won't need Loctite. You can just give the Loctite to me so I can use it on my bike's disc brakes :D

 

This is also doable with rear-wired guns. You just have to cut the tape open after installing so the wires can go through the groove.

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There's a specific kind of tape designed for sealing/tightening threads - It's stuff plumbers use to seal threads, but it also makes them nice and tight and far less likely to come undone:

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=36175&C=Froogle&U=36175&T=Module

Yeah I'm aware of these. Just that I don't know where to get them in Japan and I already have the insulation tape on hand so I improvised.

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Okay. So I finally made my mind up as to whether or not I'm keeping the gun stock.

 

I ended up using a stock spring from a KWA M4 CQB. The KWA M4 CQB was originally shooting right around 350 FPS with .20g BBs. The spring is longer by half an inch at the most compared to the stock TM spring.

 

I also changed the shimming of the gun. At least I did so for the top part of the gears (the side where you look down on when the gearbox is open.

 

With my 7.4v 2100mah 25C lipo, the gun has a good ROF. I will chrono it tomorrow.

 

I did not replace the nylon bushings as they are durable enough for the setup I am running.

 

----------------

 

I had to rip out the stock spring as I did not want to cannibalize a perfectly good piston head. The only thing I did was to hold the spring with a pair of pliers and kept twisting. The spring always breaks off at the joint where its closest to the piston head nut.

 

I had not fired a single shot when the gun was stock. I just upgraded the gun right out of the box with the spring I had. I'm thinking that I should be getting 350 FPS out of it with .20g BBs as I should.

 

I had previously ran a Guarder SP90 in a TM AK74MN recoil shock AEG. That gun was shooting around 340 with .20g BBs. I had also stuck a Guarder SP100 in a TM AK74U recoil shock AEG. I had that gun shooting around 370 FPS with .20g BBs. I have since sold the guns and as far as I know, they are still kicking with just those spring upgrades. I feel confident that the M4 SOCOM recoil shock will hold up with the stock KWA M4 CQB spring as my old TM recoil shock AEG's from the past.

 

If I have any updates regarding the gun's performance, I will report back.

 

Thanks to RichardY and Anakchan for the links for the gun's take down. They proved to be helpful as I did everything in one shot. :P

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You should be good...glad it's working out for you and look forward to your report after you've done further testing/skirmishing.

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One of the things I noticed was that the bolt catch mechanism/trigger disconnect mech actually comes in contact with the tappet plate. On the last cycle, the bolt catch gets kicked up and the internal mechanism pops in to block the tappet plate from going forward. What this does I believe is that it keeps the nozzle from going forward so when you stick a new magazine, you get the first round chambered (after hitting the bolt catch which releases the tappet plate...allowing the nozzle to move forward) instead of having the nozzle forward to where the BB doesn't get chambered on the next shot resulting in a dry fire.

 

Very interesting IMO.

 

Has anyone on this thread busted their piston yet?

 

I know that AnakChan has busted a Magic Box "reinforced" piston. I'm just wondering if there are other alternatives to pistons that do not have a full metal teeth.

 

From experience, TM pistons are pretty darn durable. I use them all the time in my personal guns....guns that I take time to work on and tune up (like the Magpul PTS Masada ACR). If possible, I'd like to grab a spare one...just in case.

 

Things I would like to have made for the TM M4 Recoil Engine:

 

1. High quality gear set readily available (not sure if RiotSC still makes em but I'd like to see em in sites).

2. Reinforced Polycarb Piston.

3. Solid Metal Bushings (I don't like double oil channel bushings like the Magic Box ones).

4. Selection of Springs specifically for the Recoil engine (other than Eagle6 and Angel 0.9J springs).

5. Hard Auto Cutoff Lever (the stock one will eventually wear down)

 

Just ranting... :P

 

I know that people can get replacement Marui Parts if they know someone from Japan. Even then, I think it takes a while before receiving them.

 

-------------------------

 

Another thing...

 

The stock KWA M4 AEG springs are shorter than Systema and Guarder springs. Its as short as the stock CA AEG springs. However, the diameter of the KWA M4 springs are smaller than stock CA AEG springs. KWA M4 springs are similar in diameter (size of the coil) to the stock TM spring for the TM Recoil Engine AEG's. Just something for reference. For this reason, I went with the KWA M4 AEG spring instead of the CA AEG spring...length is almost the same (about half an inch longer than the stock TM Recoil Engine AEG spring)between the two springs but the coil diameter on the KWA M4 AEG spring is closer to the stock than the CA AEG spring (which is larger).

 

Hopefully, that extra 1/2 inch in length will keep me from having issues that I have read about like lock ups and such.

 

I have used the Blue Loctite on my stock pipe and stock pipe ring/ castle nut. My castle nut is a bit scuffed up from tightening it and loosening it. Oh well. At least the threads aren't stripped. LoL! Looking at the threads, they are pretty beefy to begin with. I don't see how people could ac

tually strip it. I mean if you're mindful as to what you're doing, you should be able to find the corresponding threading before you tighten down things.

 

Hopefully the only time I will need to take the gun apart would be when I have made my mind up about using a mosfet.

 

Will report back with findings when I get to put BBs in the air as well as Chrono readings.

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Battery: Hyperion 7.4v 2100mah 25C lipo

Spring: KWA M4 CQB stock spring

BB 1: Javelin .20g chronoes at 332-339 fps

BB 2: javelin .25g chronoes at 296-299 fps

*hop has been set for the Javelin .25g BBs before chronoing with .20g bbs.

ROF: ~15 per second

Chronograph: Xcortech X3200 shooting chronograph.

I am gettting my shots out to about 180 feet with .25g bbs. The gun shoots straight with none of the bbs hooking left/right.

No fliers were observed.

 

IMO, the spring tension/length is just right. Its a good balance between performance and durability along with a respectable rate of fire. With this setup, my gun should last a long time. :)

 

 

---

 

Update: upon closer inspection. The bolt catch mech does not actuate the tappet plate to keep the nozzle back when the gun shoots on the last round. Sorry for the disinformation.

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py

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[snip!]

I know that AnakChan has busted a Magic Box "reinforced" piston. I'm just wondering if there are other alternatives to pistons that do not have a full metal teeth.

[snip!]

Rules the King Arms one out then since that is full metal teeth. Laylax is coming up with a piston soon. Dunno if it's full metal teeth but I'm guessing it'll just be version like their Promy but for this mechbox version.

 

1. High quality gear set readily available (not sure if RiotSC still makes em but I'd like to see em in sites).

2. Reinforced Polycarb Piston.

3. Solid Metal Bushings (I don't like double oil channel bushings like the Magic Box ones).

4. Selection of Springs specifically for the Recoil engine (other than Eagle6 and Angel 0.9J springs).

5. Hard Auto Cutoff Lever (the stock one will eventually wear down)

1. Yes. RiotSC does. A 20:1 ratio. http://www.siegetek.com/images/products/GS-B-SR.jpg

2. KA & upcoming Laylax

3. Laylax coming up soon.

 

I have used the Blue Loctite on my stock pipe and stock pipe ring/ castle nut. My castle nut is a bit scuffed up from tightening it and loosening it. Oh well. At least the threads aren't stripped. LoL! Looking at the threads, they are pretty beefy to begin with. I don't see how people could ac

tually strip it. I mean if you're mindful as to what you're doing, you should be able to find the corresponding threading before you tighten down things.

Pot metal. Doing quite a few times, you can unfortunately.

 

Battery: Hyperion 7.4v 2100mah 25C lipo

Spring: KWA M4 CQB stock spring

BB 1: Javelin .20g chronoes at 332-339 fps

BB 2: javelin .25g chronoes at 296-299 fps

*hop has been set for the Javelin .25g BBs before chronoing with .20g bbs.

ROF: ~15 per second

Chronograph: Xcortech X3200 shooting chronograph.

I am gettting my shots out to about 180 feet with .25g bbs. The gun shoots straight with none of the bbs hooking left/right.

No fliers were observed.

 

IMO, the spring tension/length is just right. Its a good balance between performance and durability along with a respectable rate of fire. With this setup, my gun should last a long time. :)

That's pretty good!

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1. Ive got 5 sets of the promy gears coming my way

2. The TM piston is epic... The magic box is rubbish it requires a lot of filing and modding to get working smoothly and not catching on the gear set. The promy pistons coming soon.

3. Fit the promy 6mm bearings.. and use bearing oil on oil channel bearings and bushings.

4. Whats wrong with my eagle6 springs ?

5. ARS do a hard cut off lever.

 

P.s for althoughs concerned about the threads you SERIOUSLY need to buy the new locking rings from laylax, i had a stock tube that was completely threads and it gripped the threads and locked it tight.. its much tighter than the stock TM one and doesnt twist or bend.

 

Apart from lower reciever and stock tube.. for me every single part is now covered for the sopmod... i know some want cheaper versions but even if there was id still buy prometheus...

 

 

 

 

 

One of the things I noticed was that the bolt catch mechanism/trigger disconnect mech actually comes in contact with the tappet plate. On the last cycle, the bolt catch gets kicked up and the internal mechanism pops in to block the tappet plate from going forward. What this does I believe is that it keeps the nozzle from going forward so when you stick a new magazine, you get the first round chambered (after hitting the bolt catch which releases the tappet plate...allowing the nozzle to move forward) instead of having the nozzle forward to where the BB doesn't get chambered on the next shot resulting in a dry fire.

 

Very interesting IMO.

 

Has anyone on this thread busted their piston yet?

 

I know that AnakChan has busted a Magic Box "reinforced" piston. I'm just wondering if there are other alternatives to pistons that do not have a full metal teeth.

 

From experience, TM pistons are pretty darn durable. I use them all the time in my personal guns....guns that I take time to work on and tune up (like the Magpul PTS Masada ACR). If possible, I'd like to grab a spare one...just in case.

 

Things I would like to have made for the TM M4 Recoil Engine:

 

1. High quality gear set readily available (not sure if RiotSC still makes em but I'd like to see em in sites).

2. Reinforced Polycarb Piston.

3. Solid Metal Bushings (I don't like double oil channel bushings like the Magic Box ones).

4. Selection of Springs specifically for the Recoil engine (other than Eagle6 and Angel 0.9J springs).

5. Hard Auto Cutoff Lever (the stock one will eventually wear down)

 

Just ranting... tongue.gif

 

I know that people can get replacement Marui Parts if they know someone from Japan. Even then, I think it takes a while before receiving them.

 

-------------------------

 

Another thing...

 

The stock KWA M4 AEG springs are shorter than Systema and Guarder springs. Its as short as the stock CA AEG springs. However, the diameter of the KWA M4 springs are smaller than stock CA AEG springs. KWA M4 springs are similar in diameter (size of the coil) to the stock TM spring for the TM Recoil Engine AEG's. Just something for reference. For this reason, I went with the KWA M4 AEG spring instead of the CA AEG spring...length is almost the same (about half an inch longer than the stock TM Recoil Engine AEG spring)between the two springs but the coil diameter on the KWA M4 AEG spring is closer to the stock than the CA AEG spring (which is larger).

 

Hopefully, that extra 1/2 inch in length will keep me from having issues that I have read about like lock ups and such.

 

I have used the Blue Loctite on my stock pipe and stock pipe ring/ castle nut. My castle nut is a bit scuffed up from tightening it and loosening it. Oh well. At least the threads aren't stripped. LoL! Looking at the threads, they are pretty beefy to begin with. I don't see how people could ac

tually strip it. I mean if you're mindful as to what you're doing, you should be able to find the corresponding threading before you tighten down things.

 

Hopefully the only time I will need to take the gun apart would be when I have made my mind up about using a mosfet.

 

Will report back with findings when I get to put BBs in the air as well as Chrono readings.

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I am trying to decide between the cqb, sopmod, and socom version of the TM ebb m4, can anyone tell me which has the best reputation? I know the sopmod has battery issues, but do any of the others have similar worries?

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@ Caelas

All 3 will have the same internals, and the same power relative to barrel length.

 

The CQB and the SOPMOD both have the rear proprietary battery that will lock you into it, or the option that Richard and Eagle6 have created.

The CQB and SOPMOD, being rear wired, will be easier to open and do barrel swaps, hop-up experiments, etc.

Unless you swap the wiring, you will be stuck with the stock that comes with the weapon.

 

The SOCOM is front wired so you are able to use any battery, and can use any stock you like.

It is harder to make changes to the front end because of the front wiring that has to be taken out when you separate the receiver.

 

Personally, I have had both the SOPMOd and SOCOM. I liked the SOPMOD, but didn't like the cost and limitations of the custom battery.

I sold it and bought a SOCOM and have been able to add a Magpul stock, VLTOR front end, and am happily using Li-Po batteries in the front.

 

Hope that helps.

 

oh, It might be worth holding off as there might be a few new models announced next week at the Japan Hobby Show.

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ran with mine today

 

went with the socom m4, masada, then back to the m4

 

zero hiccups

 

spent approximately 900 rounds shooting full auto, bursts and semi auto...

 

as with the recoil shock ak's, this puppy performed well

 

gun was shooting around 332-339 fps with just the spring upgrade

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went with the socom m4, masada, then back to the m4

 

A lot of people looking to buy one or the other, the current joint toasts of the airsoft scene.

 

Heard much better things about the TM than the Ares in terms of performance, but much better things about the Ares than the TM in terms of externals.

 

Which would you choose as your primary, sn00p?

 

Edit: clarity

Edited by Bishamon Tiger

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When you need somethin to shoot, choose a TM, if you need it to look good on the wall, choose... well, choose a G&P(shoots well, too), Ares is allways out of the equation =)

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A lot of people looking to buy one or the other, the current joint toasts of the airsoft scene.

 

Heard much better things about the TM than the Ares in terms of performance, but much better things about the Ares than the TM in terms of externals.

 

Which would you choose as your primary, sn00p?

 

Edit: clarity

 

I have both the Magpul (ARES?) PTS Masada ACR and Tokyo Marui M4 SOCOM Recoil Shock.

 

My Masada shoots farther as it shoots 360-70 FPS with .20g BBs where as the M3 shoots 330-340 FPS with .20g BBs. I used .25g BBs on both guns.

 

I also have a Guarder Clear/Soft Hop Bucking in my Masada which helps with range.

 

Its really a toss up between the two.

 

Upside of the PTS Masada is that it is more powerful, it has a little better range, magazines hold 120 rounds. I could also change the spring in a few seconds to bump my power output up a little bit more.

 

Upside for the TM Recoil Shock M4 is that it sounds super smooth (absolutely zero distinctive AEG whine). Semi auto shots go off almost instantaneously. The gun gets good range and goes toe to toe with my Masada. I have a 430rd hicap mag for it (which makes up for having only FOUR 82 round mags). Then there's the feel of the rifle...something the Masada will not be able to match.

 

---------------------------------

 

TM M4 SOCOM Recoil Shock

-TM Piston/Piston Head

-TM EG1000 Motor

-KWA M4 CQB stock spring

 

*Recently chronoes at 338-343 FPS with Javelin .20g BBs

 

 

Magpul PTS Masada ACR

-TM Piston/Piston Head

-TM EG1000 Motor

-Guarder Clear/Soft Hop Bucking

-Guarder SP100 Spring

 

*Shoots 360-370 FPS with Javelin .20g BBs

 

 

-----------------------

 

IMG_2414.jpg

 

4x 82rd Standard Magazines

1x 430rd Hi-cap Magazine

 

IMG_2411.jpg

 

*Fuse Removed. Hyperion 7.4v 2100mah LiPo Battery in place. Battery fits nicely. It does not pinch in between the outer barrel and handguards and does not slide back and forth/side to side. Pretty much a perfect fit IMO.

 

-----------------------

 

 

I did order a First Factory CQB outer barrel for the gun. However, after fitting a 285mm inner barrel, I lost about 10 FPS from when I had the 365mm inner barrel installed. Both 285 and 365mm inner barrels have a bore of 6.08mm.

 

The cylinder is a type-0 (designed for longer than 365mm inner barrels)

 

----------------------

 

 

Quick Q to the SOPMOD owners who have worked on their guns. Does your gun have a Type-0 cylinder or Type-1?

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py
  • Like 1

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The store exchanged my SOCOM for a SOPMOD because they were out of stock of the former, they even rewired it to fit a butterfly battery instead of the crappy SOPMOD battery. Customer service is great....

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yeah ive got 5 sets of the standard on route, i say standard its still higher than the normal sopmod gears in torque.

 

At least now i can develop my stronger range of springs. safe in the knowledge people will have gears that can pull them.

 

everyone should invest in the laylax locking ring espeicially those running longer springs. It will save your threads life one day. i had a sopmod come in for repair with completely worn stock threads and it brought it back to life..

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