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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG

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i dont dry fire my guns.maybe it was just a faulty gearbox. for the spring. my father works in the industrial suspension coil factory so he taught me how to cut the spring,clip the last coil with flier , heat the last coil with blue torch and grind the end of the spring so it looks like it was not cut :) i can provide i pics if somebody is interested this simple DIY. :P

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Just waiting on a prommy barrel....

Need to order a prommy cylinder head, prommy cylinder, prommy bearings and prommy gears...(shame these were not in stock when I ordered originally.... hey ho)...

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The markets pretty big for the sopmods....

 

You have 10% of v2 based gun owners buying an aws mosfet. Mainly limited by supply at the moment. But you will have near 100% of sopmod owners buying them becuase A: sopmod owners are happy to spend cash B: Any thing that makes the gun more effiecent with the propritary battery system is pretty much a must have C: Its even closer to being a ptw but with recoil. D: it removes the mechanical trigger switch which is prone to failing.

 

Regarding the pistons, i see MANY failed pistons, but not becuase of the first or last tooth but becuase the recoil weights screws become loose through vibration, the recoil weights two halfs separate and the recoil weight becomes jamed in the stock tube due to its tapered design, cuasing the gears to mash the piston half way up its teeth, or the end cap unscrews through recoil and the recoil weight pops of its runner and jams, either way same results different cuase.

 

Obviously i cant recommend the promy ones enough, as i like to support them for making so many good products for us, but the TM one is very cheap, lots available and under normal conditions it wont ever break.

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Cutting down spring is always a definate no-no, it will cause unbalanced strain on the spring which will eventually cause it to bend or break. There is a reason why spring ends are filed FLAT. Just use the springs designed for the gun, in this case eagle6 springs.

 

 

And what comes to the dry firing, the piston practically always slams forward before the BB exits the barrel, its tested & true, so in theory the strain is a little higher on the gearbox when dry fired.

Edited by Maekl

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Regarding the pistons, i see MANY failed pistons, but not becuase of the first or last tooth but becuase the recoil weights screws become loose through vibration, the recoil weights two halfs separate and the recoil weight becomes jamed in the stock tube due to its tapered design, cuasing the gears to mash the piston half way up its teeth, or the end cap unscrews through recoil and the recoil weight pops of its runner and jams, either way same results different cuase.

 

hehe, perfect timing :D The last blast today just before the whistle went, the recoil died on my sopmod. Stripped it down and the recoil weight was jammed to the rear of the tube. Thankfully the rear i guess otherwise i'm guessing i'd be after a new piston. unjammed it all, didn't think to check the screws on the weight though.

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Does this mean that every screw on the recoils should be thread locked as a precaution?

I've noticed that my stock buffer tube can be twisted left and right... I expected this is because the stock ring has loosened a little through play....

Will try that spanner later to tighten it up....

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yeah all screws, i use red on some and blue on others. Blue on the stock tube end cap, red on the screws in the guide rail on the stock tube, red on the top gearbox screw, blue on the motor hight adjuster, dont put any on screws which screw into plastic as the loctite will eat away the plastic, blue on the grub screw in the front sight, red on the screw in the top of the RAS and blue in the screw under the RAS in the outer barrel, red in the recoil weight screws.

 

And with regards the stock tube im not sure how many times ive said this in this thread but if you can twist the stock tube the locking rings not tight, if the locking rings not tight it allows the stock tube threads movment when the recoil shakes, thus creating wear. Its the single biggest reason for ruining the stock tube threads, ie playing a game knowing your locking ring / castle nut is loose.

 

Get it tight ! and keep it tight!

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Get it tight ! and keep it tight!

 

I could make quite a few comments with that statement... lol :D

I shall refrain to keeping them to Gun Porn.. haha

But yes, i'll be tightening them nuts.. actually i've a laylax one which I will replace with the Marui one...

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Nice delivery there TK, what's all there??

 

Hey buddy (or should I say TKxxxx lol)

 

Well from memory I ordered the following

 

1. Prommy piston

2. Prommy piston head

3. Prommy air seal nozzle

4. Sopmod wrench

5. firefly hop rubber

6. Guarder 50% rubbers (for other AEGS)

7. SOPMOD shims

8 laylax locking nut

9 Magpul PTS sling ring (will need to dremel to make it fit the sopmod though lol)

10 Prommy spring guide..

 

Already have:

Eagle6 M100

Eagle 6 recoil spring

Eagle 6 Lipo :D

 

On route:

Prommy 6.03 TB

 

WIsh list:

Prommy gears (guys someone show me a link please...lol)

Prommy bearings..

 

That should kinda do it for the SOPMOD...

Edited by TK4235
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Redwolf seem to do two sets for the recoil shock range as they describe them..

 

Set 1 Prometheus EG Double Torque Hard Gear Set for Marui Shoot & Recoil New Ver.1/2

 

Set 2 Prometheus EG Torque Hard Gear Set for Marui Shoot & Recoil New Ver.1/2

 

So what's the difference? Both are the same price @ $115

Edited by TK4235

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quick question,

 

If i buy the Magpul MOE Grip for my socom, do I need the metal base that is sold seperatly as well?

 

Thx!

You might get lucky, some people seem to have, but personally I've tried the MOE/MIAD on 3 different EBBs and they've never worked without the metal base plate. You can modify the plastic one, but I can't remember exactly where the guide is off the top of my head for the sake of a couple of $ you might as well get the upgrade, it's a lot nicer.

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Hey buddy (or should I say TKxxxx lol)

 

 

 

Lol yeah that's me in my avitar but I haven't got my TK, life kinda got in the way but I still have my armour and intend getting it finished to spec at some point.

 

Your sopmod sounds like it'll be spot on. Mine should remain stock till it breaks..... But I say that every time.

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Ones normal torque up the others double torque up, the singles close to stock ratio the doubles more torque either are good quite frankly for all setups and because of the balancing both will increase rof dispute them being torque.

 

I do do them but none in at the mo due to a big aws order coming up.

 

Magpull grip I found pushed the motor in to tight so you dremel the end grip so the motor fits in it better.

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Yes, yes they do. I did post about it a couple of times in this very thread, though admittedly that was a while back.

 

As mentioned, either dremel the plastic base plate or buy the metal upgraded version.

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Thanks Richard.... i'll may aswell get the double torque gears then...(when funds allow that is... :( )

 

On the hop front, I only have the firefly bucking and no firefly nub... is it worth putting the firefly bucking in (without the nub) or should I wait till the nubs become available?

 

I'm really keen to see how the sopmod will perform with the upgrades compared to the stock position.. hopefully it will not go above 350fps... but i'm more interested on the range.... will it outrange a PTW... that's my aim...

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