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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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Cant remember seeing these before - 90rd magazines with bolt lock available on Ehobby: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/battleaxe-90rd-m4-mid-cap-magazine-for-marui-recoil-shock-aeg.html

 

12$ a piece and they seem well done, except for the cutout in the baseplate - suppose its something leftover from a hicap winding wheel?

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I may be wrong so don't hold me to this but to my understanding it depends on what you're looking for. The double torque will give you a quicker trigger response, though you're ROF will lower. While the single torque will still increase trigger response (just not as much) yet not affect your ROF as much as the double.

 

For my play style, I rarely used full auto unless it was for cover fire or there were just too many people rushing me at once, so I went with the double.

Edited by akiraspeedstar
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Dearest gentlemen of superior knowledge,

 

I'm strongly drawn to the Army R47 as the base for a Nam build (either an M16a1 or xm177e2) but am concerned about fitting a new outer barrel. Will stock AEG type fit or is it a new design? Also are there any parts on the Army version that NEED upgrading or can I run it stock ish.

 

Thanks

 

Dave

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Speaking of FETs which ones are people running as I'm get sick of waiting for the AWS FET.

 

I am running extreme-fire Cheetah mosfet on my tm sopmod. Rewired to the front. Installation is such a pain in the *albartroth*. You need to file down the left side of the hop up so that all four wires will fit through.

I have it sitting in a PEQ-2 Box along with the 7.4V lipo.

 

I am in dire need of a small spring that i lost while reassembling the sopmod. It is the spring that holds the ping pong paddle components together on the gearbox. It looks kind of like a anti-reversal spring, but beefier. As of now i modified an Anti-reversal spring to hold it together, but it is not strong enough to return the parts after i smack the ping pong paddle.

 

Does anyone here have an extra? or know of anyone who carries these springs?

 

spring.jpg

Edited by mrezzy
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According to RichardY from Eagle6, you can't get a replacement for that spring. I too lost that spring and replaced it with a anti-reverse latch spring as well, though I didn't have any issues.

 

Did you mod the anti-reverse spring in anyway? and any specific brand?

 

It seems like for mine, there is not enough spring tension for the metal arm to release the tappet plate when i smack the Ping Pong Paddle WITH the mag in. WIthout the mag, it returns with no problem.

 

My work around is to hit the ping pong paddle before inserting new mag.

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Did you mod the anti-reverse spring in anyway? and any specific brand?

 

It seems like for mine, there is not enough spring tension for the metal arm to release the tappet plate when i smack the Ping Pong Paddle WITH the mag in. WIthout the mag, it returns with no problem.

 

My work around is to hit the ping pong paddle before inserting new mag.

 

I did bend a couple of sections and also made a cut some where on the spring. Wish I could help you more but I sold the gun and can't get any pictures for you.

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Right.. question... how do I get the bloomin recoil end bit off the stock tube... I tried using a steel rule but that knob is screwed on real tight! What have marui done used somesort of super loctitie? I could have sworn the SOPMOD was easy to screw off.... but this SOCOM Ahhhhhhhhhh

 

I know this has been covered before, but I just cannot get the stock tube cap to budge. I've tried steel rules, shaped bits of metal that fit perfectly in the slot (from a stapler weirdly enough), mega screwdrivers and yale keys. I've put blood, sweat and tears into getting that thing shifted (literally) and it hasn't moved in the slightest.

Does anyone have any further tips? I've thought about heating it up but I'm not sure what's inside and how it might be effected by the heat.

 

Thanks for your advice.

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I know this has been covered before, but I just cannot get the stock tube cap to budge. I've tried steel rules, shaped bits of metal that fit perfectly in the slot (from a stapler weirdly enough), mega screwdrivers and yale keys. I've put blood, sweat and tears into getting that thing shifted (literally) and it hasn't moved in the slightest.

Does anyone have any further tips? I've thought about heating it up but I'm not sure what's inside and how it might be effected by the heat.

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

The nail pulling end of a hammer is what I used on my gun, I was pretty shocked by how good it fit into the slots. Other then that, you've just named all the techniques that everyone else has used.

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Thanks for the advice.

I have since spotted a thin strip of metal at the edge of the mezzanine floor in the office, I think it will be a good fit. I'll take the buffer tube to work and stay late one evening. I think I can get enough pressure on the tube to stop it slipping while at the same time trying to turn it.

And if that doesn't work I'll make a visit to Homebase.

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