SixtyNiner Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 What blam has said is correct, but the metal baseplate is a separate item. The MIAD grip comes with a plastic base. On the upside though, once you have the metal base plate you can sell your spare MIAD grip and plastic base plate and recoup the cost of the metal base (the MIAD kit comes with two grips). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Curly68 Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Thanks guys. Managed to pick up an MOE grip with metal plate from the bay. Also have managed to fit, with a bit of modding, a Magpul ACS stock and fitted it with 7.4v LiPo battery. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Very tidy! How far can you close the stock? Using the Recoil Shock PMAGs, I assume? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Curly68 Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Stock closes all the way and also has full extension. I removed the contact bar and contacts and soldered the cable onto the ends (in case I wanted to reverse it). I made a hole in the middle of the stock big enough for the deans connectors to go through. The pods at the side were removed and then a 19mm HSS drill put down and finished off with a file so the batteries fit nicely. I cut a groove for the cables to go through and passed the deans connector into the "storage" area. Plenty of slack for extension and I can pull out the connectors from the little door. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Ah - from the above photo I see why; the ACS is longer than most other stocks. The vast majority of stocks are designed to be as flexible as possible (that is, extendible from the shortest to longest length); they're designed so that when fully collapsed (the 'smallest' position on the receiver extension) the end of receiver extension hits the end of the inside of the stock, the limiting factor upon the smallest a stock can physically be. The last few centimeters of your ACS' internal cylinder is obstructed by those two rubber tabs sticking into it; there's no way the receiver extension can pass those, so it must be that the front of the ACS hits the castle nut before the receiver extension hits those tabs. With at least that length of the stock's internal cylinder never filled by receiver extension (even at full collapse) your wires have plenty of room to bunch up inside the cylinder. A quick look at MagPul's site confirms this - at full collapse the ACS is over an inch longer than the CTR, and all of that inch is available inside for wires to bunch up. It's a shame that you couldn't get it so that the Deans connectors stayed in the upper portion (rather than the storage box) as I'm guessing that you now need a screwdriver to remove the buttplate to get at the batteries? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Curly68 Posted May 31, 2013 Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 I have nun chuck batteries, so I would have to remove the buttplate anyway. Having the connectors where they are means I can connect and disconnect easily. First time out with it tomorrow and looking forward to it. Just ordered my Laylax spanner and lock ring from Fire Support today and received my ASAP today. Another job for next week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Very pretty! Front-wired to the PEQ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mad-Larkin Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 aye, very sexy! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Berggy Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 OMG , hw did u do those colours?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SixtyNiner Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) Zushiku: That is sweet, a really cool looking blaster. I have been thinking of swapping out my Troy TRX rail for a Knights URX 3. Is yours replica or genuine? Which brand? And did you have any issues with getting it to fit? Thanks - Edit: And for some reason I'm thinking the bottom section of the rail is removable. Is that right? Any chance of getting a small lipo on there? Edited June 6, 2013 by SixtyNiner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Honzo Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Zushiku, its so beautiful.... A knights replica WITH the TM blowback system? My life would've been complete. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Curly68 Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Just finished my SOPMOD Build as follows. Magpul MOE grip and trigger guard, Magpul ASAP, Laylax hard buffer ring, Magpul XTM handstop, Troy battle sights, Vortex RS Strikefire, Madbull VTACS 11" battle rail and Magpul ACS stock modded to fit the 7.4v nunchuck batteries in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hunter512 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) Right so I'm having some (more) issues with my moneypit of a CQBR.Having straightened out the stocktube the gun is still locking up in semi although running fine in auto (for info it is popping the standard 20A fuse every time it locks up and the motor can be heard stalled and trying to turn). The gearset is a brand new set of prommy balanced gears, the motor is a natty little handwound tanio koba number and at the same time as putting the stocktube back at a 15 degree angle my local airsoft shop apparently sorted out the earths on the wiring.Any ideas? Apologies for the thread hijack but i figured here would be the best place. Edited June 13, 2013 by hunter512 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Curly68 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Are there any alternatives to the FIrefly backing and nub as I can't find anywhere in the UK that has them in stock?? Is it the 363mm Prometheus 6.03 TB that is the one to go for? Many thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hunter512 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) Prommy do a flat bucking and smooth rubber, been having reasonable results with it in my galil. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/206414-prometheus-new-fangled-hop-up/ Edited June 13, 2013 by hunter512 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Megalomaniac Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Hunter your shimming had to be off and/or you have a wiring problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Having straightened out the stocktube the gun is still locking up in semi although running fine in auto (for info it is popping the standard 20A fuse every time it locks up and the motor can be heard stalled and trying to turn) [...] at the same time as putting the stocktube back at a 15 degree angle my local airsoft shop apparently sorted out the earths on the wiring. Guns don't pop fuses for fun - there's something seriously wrong with yours! I agree with Megalomaniac - I think you have a wiring and/or shimming problem. I'd say that having your stock tube bent could have inflicted damage to the wiring and the tolerances of the gearbox. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hunter512 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Brilliant, note to self do not use a certain combat shop in the south near Portsmouth again. So realistically rewire and hope for the best? Which is annoying as I paid for the techs time to fix the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Megalomaniac Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Re-Shim first you want about 0.1mm of endplay on the gears, clearance between the shells and the gears, clearance between the gears, and the pinion centered on the bevel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number5 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) Popped fuses, rather than mechanical is probably a crossed wiring problem. I popped 3 prommy fuses before I figured my wiring problem out. Then I cut the fuse out and straight wired it! It could be mechanical, but if the stock tube was bent, and your tech had no Idea what they were doing its probably wiring. Edited June 13, 2013 by Number5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VIPER-GR Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 TM Socom and Madbull NRS rail.....anyone? will it fit or is a no go? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Berggy Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 madbull NSR will fit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hunter512 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Hunter your shimming had to be off and/or you have a wiring problem. Re-Shim first you want about 0.1mm of endplay on the gears, clearance between the shells and the gears, clearance between the gears, and the pinion centered on the bevel. Popped fuses, rather than mechanical is probably a crossed wiring problem. I popped 3 prommy fuses before I figured my wiring problem out. Then I cut the fuse out and straight wired it! It could be mechanical, but if the stock tube was bent, and your tech had no Idea what they were doing its probably wiring. Just a final question and i appreciate this could be me being stupid but wouldn't a shimming issue or indeed a wiring issue manifest in both semi and full auto? Once again thank you for your tolerance, It seems I can fault find on a gas turbine but apparently not a toy gun! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Megalomaniac Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Semi is generally more energy intensive than F/A especially on motors that lack torque. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KyleKatarn Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) Quick and easy tape fix for magazines with faulty bolt catch lever system: The ghettofix does work, but once applied you cant push the lever down completely: And because of that, you cant push the Bolt catch entirely in, after all BBs were fired. I then tried to put a small piece of rubber under one side of the the other lever (pic below), so there's nothing on the upper side that prevents the lever from getting pulled up completely. Unfortunately, it didn't work quite well, the Bolt Stop still didn't engage. It had to do something with the strenght of the spring... So i just put some tape around the appliance that holds the magazine spring in order to increase the "pushing force" of it: With only that applied, the lever goes down completely: Works like a charm now, with the Bolt Stop operating each and every single time. Edited June 15, 2013 by KyleKatarn 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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