sjaak Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Cant find them on the diagram, they fell out when removing the upper receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Im going space Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Might be an old diagram tbh. Put up a pic? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sjaak Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 The Pic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Those go on the sides of the gearbox close to the buffer tube. It is there to prevent any movement of the gearbox, tough they fall out easily when you remove the upper. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Hahaha love the pic. I have to find a day to do a video. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brock0 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) Just wrapping up my first season with my TM recoils - a 416 and a SOPMOD. I went full retard on the 416: prometheus everything, firefly rubber, and a spectre while the SOPMOD remains stock (albeit wired to deans for regular lipos). Aside from the obvious difference the spectre makes, there isn't much of a performance gap between the two. Maybe I need to bump up the springs and start shooting something heavier than .28s to see the difference. With that in mind, I'm going to build the SOPMOD into a MK12 and am looking for the fewest possible upgrades to get to a reasonably accurate shooter at 400fps. I'd like to use some .32s or heavier - they are popular here for cutting through brushy cover and steadiness in the wind. Recommendations for this build? New spring for sure (eagle6 120) Motor? Gears? Inner Barrel? Appreciate your recommendations. Edited October 24, 2015 by brock0 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 SHS hi Torque motorSHS/WiiTech Gearset Prometheus 6/05mm barrel plus an R-hop or a flat hop Mosfet and Deans connectors Should do you well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Megalomaniac Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Who is still making outer barrels for these guns, I have a few uppers I want to build.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SixtyNiner Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 New upper and lowers coming from Laylax… http://www.popularairsoft.com/news/cerakote-de-receivers-tm-m4-negs It has been a while since I've tinkered with my SOPMOD, I might have to get a set. I can't read the Japanese Laylax site the story links to but I'm assuming they come in other colours as well as the Magpul approved Dark Earth. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Looks like everything players have custom-made is eventually released by a manufacturer. I note that the uppers are drilled for a gas tube, unlike the TM ones, but aren't cloverleaf-drilled. You can tell I'm trying to justify the massive expense I had to go to to get effectively these exact items custom made, right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 When you're busting out the phrase cloverleaf-drilled.. probably. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bladerunner168 Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Has anyone actually non Japanese or unable to read/write in Japanese, tried ordering directly from Laylax before? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Vader Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Has anyone had problems with the bolt stop mechanisms and found a working solution? Mine is behaving quite strange, first it sporadically failed to activate, then it didn't activate at all and then it activated when the mag was full! I use the Pmags, but the originall mags don't work either. I tried the shrink tube method (shrink tube on magazine lever), which at first made the empty mags activate the bolt stop again but worsened the problem with fulls mags activating the bolt stop. I thought maybe the recoil makes the lever jump up even when the mag is full, so I put a small magnet (5x4x1 mm) under the shrink tube on top of the lever and another one beneath the lever part (under the outer magazine shell), so the lever was always pulled down while the spring was still strong enough to lift the lever when the mag was empty. Unfortunately that did not solve the problem and now the mags were not activating the bolt stop when empty and at the same time! activating the bolt stop when full (I don't even know how that is possible). I have to note that the gun works without problems without a magazine and the gearbox lever can be easily activated with the finger, so I'm sure the problem is not related with my Specter mosfet. Now after closer inspection I feel that the gearbox lever is bit short and there is very little contact area between the gearbox- and magazine levers. But I'm not sure what to do about it or whether this is even the real problem and I'm getting out of ideas. I was thinking about buying a new gearbox lever, but mine looks fine with no visible defects and I'm not sure if a new one will make a difference. Has anyone had similar problems? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Did you disassembled it recently? A reassemble might help. I put a shrink tube on the lever (on the part) that contacts with the mosfet as it wasn't working right for me before. I have also noticed that in very cold weather (0 celsius or lower) the bolt stop would not work for me pre-mosfet. The small alloy levers might change size slightly in the cold which causes the problem or so I am thinking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Vader Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 I think I found the problem. The lever on the gearbox that needs to be pushed up got caught on the little cubic part that is hanging from the gearbox. This part is needed to keep the lever forward once it was activated and before that the lever is resting beside the cube part. But due to the sharp edges there was some resistance to the lever which could be overcome with a finger but the magazine lever was not strong enough. Some filing and sanding took care of that problem and now the bolt stop is activating fine without any shrink tubes. I guess the shrink tube that I had on the magazine levers before was the problem, as it slightly pushed the gearbox lever upwards even when the magazine lever was down (and that with more force than the spring of the lever when it was activated), even more so with the added 1 mm magnet. I also suspect that the magnet on top of the magazine lever was preventing the gearbox lever from being pushed forward, thus creating the paradox situation of the mag lever engaging the bolt stop in the down position but preventing it from activation in the up position. While I was at it I also added the shrink tube to the second gearbox lever that is activating the microswitch on the Spectre (as you suggested), but I don't think this had anything to do with my problem since that lever is only depending on how far forward the first lever is pushed and not on how far up it is pushed, yet the bolt stop was always activating when the first lever was pushed up enough. But I guess I will see how my sanding method will work with my firends Sopmod, since he has the same problem. Anyhow, thanks for the help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrezzy Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Anybody knows the screw size for the retractable stock bar for the buffer tube? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CALLAHAN_88 Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) Thinking of buying the Daniel Defense RECCE model but hov bad is the wobbel in the front of this gun? Or should i go for the Scar L instead? The M4 has moore appealing and has moore modified options! Edited February 28, 2016 by CALLAHAN_88 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 What have you heard about the RECCE being wobbly? I've never been made aware of any issues with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hatchet Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Anybody knows the screw size for the retractable stock bar for the buffer tube? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Think they're M2x4mm with a countersunk head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CALLAHAN_88 Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 What have you heard about the RECCE being wobbly? I've never been made aware of any issues with it. In the Airsoft International magazine! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CALLAHAN_88 Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 I went ahead an ordered one anyway! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pdubyuh Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 if you are talking about the tm Recce M4 its solid as a rock no wobble what so ever! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CALLAHAN_88 Posted March 2, 2016 Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 Great to hear! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CALLAHAN_88 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Is the buffert tube Mil spec or commercial on the Recce! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 The whole line uses the same parts largely, normal airsoft TM spec, which is somewhere close to Mil Spec; generally a smidge slimmer. There aren't many ARs in airsoft that use comm spec, comparatively speaking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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