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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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Thank you for some great advise. and will pass it on to my store. would you recommend that i get a stronger spring and cut the coils to get it down to 330fps.

About the stock tube strains, So the tread goes. I'm guessing this will cause the tube to be lose. And effect the recoil functions.

 

Don't need Electric safety, would that mean the gun can't go on safe?

ECU upgrade? When will this come out?

 

Thanks again... if i have problems still, are you able to sort it out, and if so. how.

Thanks again dude.

 

 

 

 

 

err id recommend you buy an eagle6 spring as its ready made to fit and only 10 pounds.. it comes in m90, m100, m110 m120... take your pick.

 

The threads will get lower and wont grip the inside of the lower recievers threeads... youll get symptoms like missaligned stock tube, stock ring not tightening up no matter how much you tighten it, or worst case the stock tube will pop out even if youve screwed it in all the way.

 

I lie worst case would be the stock tube poping out mid game as a team mates walking behind you... HEAD SHOT!

 

 

I guess you could say it would affect the recoil at this point as there wont be a back to the gearbox..

 

Im super busy developing new stuff for the sopmod platform and clearing a current backlog of guns so im not taking anymore repairs on in the future, i need to concentrate on fullfilling sopmod lipo pack orders.

 

Theres two safterys, electric and physical, you will still have a physical saftey which is more than enough.

 

 

There will be more info on the ecus when.. well i have more info.

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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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On the whole SOCOMs with rails and lipos thing I've got another question. I've got my newest SOCOM sitting here now all new and stock, and I'm thinking of putting a King Arms MRF up the front. Main reason for this, over any other freefloat, is that you can pop the lower quadrant off with 1 screw which will make battery changes a whole *suitcase* load easier. Far as I'm aware part from the KAC RAS no other rails have this feature.

 

However, I'm pretty sure it's not going to fit the gun as it is now. The weird 'barrel nut' (the bit that actually hold the outer barrel on, not the smaller part with the cog teeth in front of it) that the SOCOM uses has an extra ring of metal all the way round that normal barrel nuts don't feature, so I'm thinking I'll either have to grind this down flush, or fit a normal barrel nut and cut a hole in to it to allow the wiring through, anyone have any thoughts?

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Which rail are you talking about? Point it out here http://www.kingarms.com/showproduct.asp?subcatid=37 ?

 

Re - the one screw take down - I've used both the Madbul DD RIS II and the VFC URX 2 Mid Length - both of them have removable bottoms that can be easily fixed with 2 screws. For the DD I'd prefer 4, though.

 

Also I'm currently using the URX II and its ok, but fitting the battery in is a PIA each time :D

 

Regarding the barrel nut, I'd advance you won't have any issues, normally all rails come with their own barrel nuts anyway.

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This is the one I had in mind:

 

http://www.kingarms.com/productpage.asp?prodid=878

 

I'll take a look at the Madbull option, though the main issue is finding these rails in stock anywhere quite often, they tend to sell out a lot and buying just 1 item from a store in HK isn't preferable.

 

I suppose the other options would be the DD Omega, should be a fairly easy drop in fit as the extra materials on the off-spec TM barrel nut won't interfere with it and I believe you can take off the bottom rail with a few screws, then again I'm not seeing there being a whole lot of battery/connector space inside one, even for a 2-part lipo. Internal space wise I'd have said the DD Lite would be good, but then it's definitely going to take some chopping/drilling to get the wiring through the proprietary barrel nut on one of those.

 

As I mentioned though, with the barrel nuts, yes most rails do come with them quite right, but the TM one has a hole in it for the wires to go through, after-market ones will take some modding and it's a question really of how much material can you take away and still maintain the strength.

Edited by CKinnerley
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DD lite shouldn't need any extra chopping. The barrel nut just replaces the normal one, so you can still pass the wires through the cap in the semi-circular barrel clip. Think there are pictures earlier in the thread. Very tight for space though.

 

Edited to add picture.

 

post-37787-0-36777600-1302460104_thumb.jpg

Edited by Hatchet
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Hmm, blimey I'd never thought about that I must admit, I was thinking about normal AEG barrels which obviously have a base all the way around and don't leave a gap; whereas, as you say, the system on the TM creates a space since the base clip only goes part way around. Thanks for that guys that helps a lot, very much appreciated, +1s all round.

 

That will certainly make the fitting process a lot easier, just to pick a rail now. I'm presuming a bog standard USGI AR-15 barrel nut will still leave the gap for the wires? In which case I should be able to fit just about any rail. The MRF is certainly winning in the respect that the bottom rail comes away with one screw (easy battery changes) and I could order it with a load of other stuff that I'll be buying at the same time to save costs, plus it should be alright in terms of space on the inside.

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I don't think a standard USGI barrel nut would work at all (assuming you're talking real steel). Real ones are a one piece job and that on the sopmod/cqbr are entirely different (almost like a second castle nut). As you pointed out earlier, the "cog" part of the delta/barrel assembly has a cutout to allow wires through. I think I'd want to see close ups of how it all goes together before I spent any cash on a rail.

 

Edited to add - anyone know the translation of the screw sizes in the manual. Specifically those going in to part NGM4-39 (the stock position notch rail). Shows as 2x4 and some symbols. It probably says "Loctite these" in Japanese too...

Edited by Hatchet
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Well I meant a G&P one to be honest (they do make ones for the TM threads), but they are the same shape as the RS. I'm pretty sure it should work, if you at that picture you posted before and where the gap is in the barrel base clip, the standard style nut doesn't cover that gap any more than than the DD one does.

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Well I meant a G&P one to be honest (they do make ones for the TM threads), but they are the same shape as the RS. I'm pretty sure it should work, if you at that picture you posted before and where the gap is in the barrel base clip, the standard style nut doesn't cover that gap any more than than the DD one does.

 

G&P Delta ring's are a straight drop in. work fine, no shimmign required.

 

Also, I've been running a Madbull Mk18 Ras 2 (M4 length) for a while now, was also a straight drop in, required about 5 of the shims though.

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Depends on the price of the TM one, but the laylax one is fantastically well made. The machine work is amazingly smooth and the anodising is beautiful, it may not be cheap but you get a bloody well made outer barrel. Far higher standards of work than I've seen from any other airsoft manufacturer.

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The tm is actually the same price, so basically it comes down to quality rather than price. but i've noticed both have different notches cut out from them. This will be going onto a socom, since the cqbr barrel wasnt made for front wiring im wondering if it will be a problem. And i've seen the dytac barrels, but im not sure on their quality. I noticed on those the hard barrel ring is fixed rather than a seperate piece. Basically the end result, the barrel has to be able to free float while allowing wires to run through it

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Well the TM components are pretty well made on these new guns, but the laylax barrel is still a lot nicer than the standard ones on my other EBBs. It also has the same cut underneath as the stock 14.5" barrel the SOCOM comes with, so you're sorted on the batteries side of things. The dytac will be a bit cheaper (I think) but the quality won't be as high, having purchased one of their outers for standard M4s I've found that yes they're perfectly ok, but really nothing special, fairly standard for airsoft.

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I have used 2 of the laylax barels in my rifles, highly recommended. Am using them with longer barrels, one of them with a 300mm TK brarel, the other one with a 363mm one.

 

Double nice is the inner o-rig-something that keeps the inner barrel centered / not moving.

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Regarding the previous pages' dilemma with the rails, I went for the KA MRF in the end since WGC had a sale on (the 10" rail with an m4 outer barrel, gas tube and gas block for less than just the rail on its' own, makes sense eh?). Will report on whether it all fits together in a couple of weeks when it arrives and I get an opportunity to attach it to my SOCOM.

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On a whole different subject ... Richard... maybe you should market your springs also for the AK74 series? I have one spring for that weapon and its the same length as the Sopmod spring!

 

I thought i already did ?? lol

 

Yeah they fit every single next gen gun, hence the name on the packaging is for recoil guns only, and the website should say the same thing.

 

I assumed its becuase there wasnt as many aks out there, but all i see is spring order i never know what its going in :P

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I noticed today that my socom's bolt catch sticks out more and has a more positive click to it, versus my cqb the bolt catch feels really light to the touch to engage it. when i look inside the magwel of the cqbr, i cant engage the lever deep enough like the socom. Either way the bolt lock works, its just strange to find this inconsistency in a marui

Edited by BerserkDS
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