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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG


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hello!

i just finished reading the whole 94 pages of this thread. it took me 4 days wide-eyed.gif , but most of my questions are now answered.

 

being the first post here, let me tell you my story :)

 

i've been using my cqb-r for almost an year. i bought the gun from wgcshop.com together with a few upgrades- ball bearing piston head, ball bearing spring guide, air nozzle, trigger pin all from Prometheus. i installed those parts after about 1k bbs.

initial velocity was 83 m/s

after upgrading and using a pdi 120% spring (it's the same lenght as the original one, i measured them), stock barrel, stock hop rubber- 86 m/s :(

i changed the barrel with a madbull v2, 6.03 tight bore and the hop-up rubber with a soft firefly. the velocity increased to 88 m/s, using 0.20 excel, zero hop and 91 m/s with hop-up set-up for optimal flight unsure.gif using tokyo marui 0.20 bbs the velocity is 96 m/s, with hop-up ON. i don't plan to upgrade it any further, i'm very pleased with the way it shoots.

 

_____

 

using a battery cap- or how it's called that plastic blank connector that comes with sopmods- given free of charge to me by elanaiba (thank you! ) i've modified an EP 1500mAh 9.6v NiMh battery to use it on my sopmod. the rof raised from 11 rps to 13 rps, and the trigger response is almost instant. the only thing i'm afraid is that it can damage trigger contacts. i plan buying a trigger switch from echigoya-guns this month, just in case.

_____

 

after about 5k rounds the buffer tube started to get loose. i used threadlock but then the whole buffer tube started to unscrew while the buffer ring stayed on place . as i've read here, the only solution will be changing the buffer ring with a PROMETHEUS/LAYLAX hard one. this isn't on stock on Richard's Eagle6 shop.

 

@Richard Y can you please tell me when will you re-stock it?

_____

 

from what i've read here, some essential upgrades/spare parts i should have in order to be prepared for an inevitable failure are:

1. prometheus gold connector sets

2. hard cut of lever- is ARS one good?

3. hard buffer ring

4. metal bushings- 6mm guarder or systema steell bushings should be ok for max 100 m/s, right?

5. piston- a tm one one is a lot cheaper than a prometheus one, and for my setup should be enough, am i right?

6. gearbox case- it's not that expensive, but it takes almost 3 weeks to arrive from asia and i think it's better to have it and not needing it, than to need it and wait a month - if it'll be on stock then

7. buffer tube- it's so expensive, i hope that buying a better buffer ring i won't damage mine

 

is there anything i forgot? :)

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While fiddling about with my SOCOM recently I noticed an expected benefit of using a Magpul MIAD grip. The swappable backstrap means you only need to remove the pistol grip base to get access to the a

Oh PureSilver, you do spoil me rotten sometimes.   PureSilver dropped half his SOPMOD off with me last weekend with some new goodies to install. Before we continue, you should note that the gun had

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CNC buffer tube? where?? =)

You mean you are going to make one? That would be great. Any details yet? Will it have anodized finish? Because the paint on the marui one strips very fast.

 

Also, did you consider making a Sopmod battery with the original A123 LiFePo cells? Don't know if thats necessary, I never tried a high capacitiy 8.4 Volt Lipo, though in our team we had very good results with the 1100 mAh 9.9 volt batterys in our tuned socoms (400 fps).

 

Also while I'm at it, what is up with the increased recoil weight you mentioned some time ago? I'm still waiting for that one ^^

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Finally got to use my SOPMOD for a few games. With the Lipo I like it even more then my G36k. Never thought that I would say that. the difference between the battery that TM supplies and a Lipo is incredible. It is a tight fit with the gun wired to the front. I will never look back as stated earlier.I recommend this mod to anyone that wants the SOPMOD.

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The dimensions of the weight i designed in steel wouldnt have produced enough weight increase to be worth while other than a shiny nice cnced weight unit. maybe 10% i couldnt justify it at the time, i may look again this year has been hard slog with all the repairs and what... ill get back to designing stuff in a month or so when the repairs stop.

 

The cnc lower and upper and buffer tube will be sold at echigoya, first 200 units will be japan only though, you can try and get one but youll have to wait till they sell then they will probably be available from me after that. About 600 usd for all 3. Which is why im still getting the tm ones lol i suppose it depends on how much you love your sopmod!

 

we already constructed a cnc a123 pack, video here...

wasnt good enough in the 2s2p config.... lasted forever though and super fast recharge, like 10 min... lol
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The dimensions of the weight i designed in steel wouldnt have produced enough weight increase to be worth while other than a shiny nice cnced weight unit. maybe 10% i couldnt justify it at the time, i may look again this year has been hard slog with all the repairs and what... ill get back to designing stuff in a month or so when the repairs stop.

 

The cnc lower and upper and buffer tube will be sold at echigoya, first 200 units will be japan only though, you can try and get one but youll have to wait till they sell then they will probably be available from me after that. About 600 usd for all 3. Which is why im still getting the tm ones lol i suppose it depends on how much you love your sopmod!

 

we already constructed a cnc a123 pack, video here...

wasnt good enough in the 2s2p config.... lasted forever though and super fast recharge, like 10 min... lol

Richard,

 

R U referring to the BumbleBee one? I knew about the whole receiver (upper/lower) but not the buffer tube too!!

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this ones done by t for echigoya. oh ok you twisted my arm heres a picture...

 

 

lr2XPROTO.jpg

 

 

 

prices

the price of the buffer tube may to range $90-$110depends on the usd rate during the selling time

 

 

the lower may range to $190-$210

 

the upper may range to $110-$130

 

I realy didnt want to post the info as apart from sean in japan we wont be able to get any for a while and price wise its more expensive than the tm lower which was already expensive. If i order them in they will be selling for about 180 quid for a lower reciever... which is expensive...

 

 

 

I would rather buy a whole tm and split it into its different parts...

 

 

 

 

Edited by Richard Y
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More messing about with spraycans and parts.

 

cqbr-camo.jpg

 

Looks pretty similar to how it did a while back in the thread, but it's a lot more solid. I put some electrical tape round the base of the barrel where it goes into the receiver and this firms things up a lot more than just shims can. Everything has been threadlocked, the DD rail has done up without the need for shims on the six bolts (probably because I bought some...). Replaced the magpul buis with G&P ones, etc.

 

Actually, the most fiddly bit was probably this:

 

cqbr-gasblock.jpg

 

Dytac low profile gas block and King Arms M4 gas tube. The Madbull DD rail doesn't have a hole for the gas tube, so I had to use a 5mm metal drill bit to put one there. I then had to put another in the underside of the RIS to enable access to the grub screw that holds the gas block in place. All of this for something purely cosmetic that most people won't see. If I had to do it again I'd probably start with getting the 9.5 inch MK18 ris instead of the 9 inch lite one.

 

The bipod is QD as is the Gemtch G5 silencer, so it can go back into CQB mode in about 10 seconds. Only thing I fancy doing next is the stealth mosfet trigger when it comes out.

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Bloody hell, sounds like a right hassle. I'd say there's a lesson for everyone there, definitely go with rails that have an easily detachable lower quadrant in future if you want to fix a low-pro gas block inside it. It's pretty much pure luck I've not had that issue before myself I have to say.

 

Though could you not have loosely put on the rail, fixed in your gas tube/block, then slid the rail forward slightly along the tube until one of the holes in the bottom allowed you to get at the gas block securing screws? The madbull Lite might be different I suppose but my G&P has various holes along the underside.

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Bloody hell, sounds like a right hassle. I'd say there's a lesson for everyone there, definitely go with rails that have an easily detachable lower quadrant in future if you want to fix a low-pro gas block inside it. It's pretty much pure luck I've not had that issue before myself I have to say.

 

Though could you not have loosely put on the rail, fixed in your gas tube/block, then slid the rail forward slightly along the tube until one of the holes in the bottom allowed you to get at the gas block securing screws? The madbull Lite might be different I suppose but my G&P has various holes along the underside.

 

Sadly the Madbull DD lite doesn't have holes on the bottom. You are also limited in how you can move it due to how it attaches. In order to run the gas tube all the way through you'd also have to go through the hex mount that's secured by the barrel nut. This wouldn't give you much more advantage anyway, since you have the fake gas tube prong behind that anyway (the one that the little silver piece goes on to give the illusion of a continuous gas tube on the normal sopmod/cqbr).

 

Forgot to mention the Marui scope mount. Pretty good as it's QD and has removable inserts so you can use it for 1 inch or 30mm scopes.

 

But yeah, I'd do a MK18 ris and the "correct" KAC suppressor if I was doing it over.

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If this link has been posted already, I'm sorry. Having just changed the forgrip of my socom to a sopmod ris I needed to find a lipo battery that would fit in the ris, found this one and it's a perfect fit. Although it's only rated 15 discharge it works perfectly in my slightly uprated (320fps) socom.

 

http://www.vapextech.co.uk/acatalog/airsoft.html

 

Airsoft 7.4v 1200mAh Cranestock L2 LiPo battery Vapextech

 

Hope it helps others who are searching for similar.

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Unless you've got some pretty extensive technical expertise, plenty of cash and a whole lot of high quality tools I'd honestly recommend just going for a CTR instead. In terms of airsoft it'll give you the exact same functionality while being quick and easy to fit, the UBR would requite a lot of cutting, chopping and other custom work.

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