Vercingetorix Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Well I dunno about measurements, but I know at least 5 people that have had their guns run flawlessly through 20 and bellow degrees Fahrenheit at multiple winter games, over the course of multiple years(2-3ish) whilst upgraded to 500 fps w/ .25s (SP150s usually, some only had it to 400 w/ .25s, but retained the full auto). I know more than that ammount of people who have done similar setups with V2s, and they cracked quite often. I would definitely say the V7 is strong ENOUGH..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Abelius Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Sounds better. It's still a flawed design especially because of the right side of the mech. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) I see. I have only taken apart two m14s, and those were quite some time ago, so forgive my apparent memory lapse.  Also, What size lipo(rc lipos hopefully, most airsoft lipos are poop grade) would fit in the stock? Links?  I found this awesome M14 site(RS): http://www.desertwarriorproducts.com/index.html  definitely gonna be ordering somethings from there(sling, vert grip rail, bipod, etc.) Edited January 30, 2009 by Vercingetorix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Sorry to double post, but can anyone measure their batteries or the space available in the stock? I need to figure out what lipo would fit.... Â Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 (edited) I would measure for you, but as of now, my gun is packed ready to ship back to the seller. So far my expirences with this gun haven't been so good. First of the gearbox is simpily a mess (on mine at least) simpily pulling back the chrging handle greats you with a veiw of the cyylinder because the two halves of the gearbox don't fit together properly, leaving a gap on the top of the GB. Also the front coner of the GB is realllllly screwed up, it looks like it has some major casting issues; one half of the GB is actually a different size than the other, so it actually is higher o one side, and the lower side seems to be much skinnier than the other. The problem with the front of the gearbox is pretty hard to describe but it looks liike there is something really wrong. Keep in mind I never even fired the gun!!!!!! Â On the other hand, when i ship he defective gun out and get a replacement, i'll keep you guys posted as to the quality of it. Â EDIT: also, does anyone know who makes the best magazines for th M14; or if any have trades on the bottom? or for that matter if the RS mags even have trades? i've developed a bit of a trademark obsession (although I think it kinda comes with the sport.) Edited February 7, 2009 by -=OGGY=- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Abelius Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 (edited) Uhh. Those gearbox "problems" aren't problems. My Marui and CYMA had a gap, from where you could see a blink of the cylinder (0,5mm-1mm gap). The difference on the right side on the other hand is a cut, to allow the operating of the charging handle and the main design flaw with the whole V7, because as previously stated, it cracks almost always there with high power springs. Â Edit: For magazines, I like TM and King Arms metal single stack 70 rounders. At least they feed. Edited February 7, 2009 by Abelius Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted February 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 irst of the gearbox is simpily a mess (on mine at least) simpily pulling back the chrging handle greats you with a veiw of the cyylinder because the two halves of the gearbox don't fit together properly, leaving a gap on the top of the GB. Â Wow! Â Well, I'm opening up my gearbox again this evening... I have no clue what is wrong, but with the new Prometheus MS100 spring, I'm only hauling 220fps (measured with 2 Guarder Chronies... and it shoots real bad too!) Â I wonder what the problem is; I'll make pictures of the inside for you guys too! Â I'll measure the battery compartiment for you Vercingetorix; I'm sorry for the delay! Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 ...The difference on the right side on the other hand is a cut, to allow the operating of the charging handle and the main design flaw with the whole V7, because as previously stated, it cracks almost always there with high power springs. Â wow, thats crazy. it really looks like that cut is a defect but i guess it not. im still not convinced about the gap though; none of my other AEG have gaps, and i dont paticularly like shelling out $300 for a gun with such *searching for word* 'low quality' problems. I also forgot to mention that the gearbox had a small crack in it as well; remember, this is after putting a grand total of 0, yes zero, BBs through the gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Ouch... Sucks... Still, for the price, I could get a brand new GB shell and all new internals(which I plan on doing ) and just the externals would be worth the price and the internals could be sold(the good parts) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 (edited) You see, the only reason I bought the DMR was for two parts; the gearbox shell and the body. Everything else I plan to sell to fund an EBR. The reason I decided to canniblize it was that for the price everything is just too good to be true. The body and shell would cost about $150 together; and by buying the DMR, I get everything i need plus a stock, steel barrel set, a scope, full set of internals(and motor + barrel), and RIS to sell. My hope is that I can sell all of the parts i dont need so that in the end this method costs less than buying just the G&P gearbox and body. Â Â EDIT: When I get my replacement gun, i'm gonna have to strip it down completly so if anyone what pics of the internals, let me know cause i'll post them here. Edited February 9, 2009 by -=OGGY=- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Draven Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 (edited) Edit: posted with friend's account by accident... Edited February 9, 2009 by Draven Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 EDIT: When I get my replacement gun, i'm gonna have to strip it down completly so if anyone what pics of the internals, let me know cause i'll post them here. Â Please do so, I'm having trouble finding time to take pictures... Â About battery space, Â 30mm x 40mm x 120mm should fit. Â batteries like 25mm x 60mm x 110mm should fit too... It's really difficult to say what exact sizes will fit. Â If I look at the "Hot power" 7.4V 3300mAh 20C, measuring 128mm x 46mm x 12mm, this should fit without any trouble! Â Â Â Oh yeah, I put the old spring back in... it's definatly better than the MS100 spring (maybe its a dodgy spring?)... I'll have to wait for my Chrono to come in. Â And oh... I broke my safety lever, yes, stupid me! Anyone know where I can get a replacement? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Just got my quote from Airsoft advantage, and I'll be buying the gun later today . Thanks for the sizing of the battery compartment... do this this battery: http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?...ELT&cat=E35 second battery down (elite 35c 3s 2200mah lipo), would fit easily? From what I read on your dimensions, it would, but I just wanted to make sure... I think you got the order on the dimensions wrong or backward , (length x width x height) or at least it would make sense that way..... Â Also, if you can get pictures of the broken part(I am rusty on V 7 terminology) maybe we can help you find a new one...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Not only will it fit, it will float inside the stock.. Â I don't think you'd want to put 35C 2200mAh 11.1 into a stock G&P DMR; mine even started to act weird full auto on a 3300mAh 9.6V NiMH! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 (edited) It won't be staying stock for long..... And I have minis for it until It is upgraded..... I'll mainly be using it for SEMI though. And on the bright side I get to endurance/reliability test it for you guys  I might just go with a 7.2v version of it though.... Edited February 10, 2009 by Vercingetorix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
UrPeaceKeeper Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 The trigger mech on the Marui design tends to wear down, at least it did for me. I asked because the classic army M14 copies the G&G, but its trigger design is like the Marui (I believe, I don't actually own one). I thought that perhaps the G&P might take a similar leeway, that's all. I still think that the v7 gearbox is great though . Â The only thing the CA shares with the TM is the fire selector portion. The rest of it (including how the gun shoots) is identical to the G&G which uses a heavily modified standard style wire switch block (like in a V2/V3 etc). Â The Marui V7 gearbox is hit or miss. I personally would not go over an M120 with that gearbox. It's about as fragile as the V2 is in my experience. If you want a solid gun that wont give you issues with gearbox failures use a CA or a G&G as a base. If you MUST have the DMR stock then I wish you luck with your G&P or TM convert! Failures have been pretty minimal, maybe a few handfull of cases. However I would imagine after time the TM box wont last nearly as long as the CA or G&G box. Â Good review though, I like G&P product a lot, if I wasnt so cost involved in my G&G (Too many mags!) I'd consider one of these to complete my USMC loadout, but I cant afford another 9 magazines for a TM M14 base Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I find this all very strange lol. I know a shiton of people in NJ(where I live) that have very highly upgraded TM M14s. I know, get this, NO ONE that has ever cracked a TM v7 shell(*knock on wood*), even in the cold NJ weather(I have played games with those guns in weather at 24 degrees farenheit for 6-8 hr games) and I've never seen one break in the way you speak of. I don't mind having to replace the shell every so often anyway, I do my own internal work so that shouldn't be a problem. I order 7 G&P Mids to complement the 1 that comes with it, and that should be more than enough for DMR work..... I have decided if I am gonna go DMR I only need the trigger response, not the ROF, so since the same lipo but only 7.2v would be less taxing but have the same discharge rate(and same trigger response if I am understanding it correctly) I'll go with that instead and if need be upgrade later on but I doubt it..... Paypal was sen to AA tonight, hope I get it soon I plan on adding a bipod, vert grip, working PEQ, sunshade and butler creek covers for the scope and then calling it a day(externally). Internally, we shall see..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted February 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2009 (edited) 314fps, with 0.20gr and the original spring... Â This is not what I was hoping for (it shot through both sides of a Pepsi can...) Â I'm waiting for my XCortech X3200 Chrono to come in before I made any modifications. Edited February 15, 2009 by Schaap Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 Did you rip the hop-up rubber or crack a nozzle perchance? I could see that as a quick way that could be overlooked t loose a lot of FPS. Â And as for my G&P M14, the waiting game continues I ordered it from AA, so its going to take a WHILE to get here Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted February 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 The hop-up bucking has been replaced, so I don't think the problem lies there... Â I haven't checked for a cracked nozzle, but it seems unlikely to come out of the box cracked.(?) Â I hope you receive yours soon! Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Thanks dude, hope you find out what is buggering up your gun. BTW, think a 7.2v lipo would be more than enough in ROF and trigger response (again, 35c discharge)? I think it would be fine even if I do stick an M150 in there, right? Â Thanks again! Â Maybe an O-ring needs stretching? or Lubricating? Did the cylinder come gunked up/full of lubricant when you got it? If so, the o-ring might not be sealing correctly once you re-lubed it... Or maybe those explosive piston heads suck lol.... I'll probably take mine apart soon after I get it, I'll see if I find anything abnormal in mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TANGO91 Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 G&P springs are pretty inconsistant, some shoot 320 others 400, so that may explain the low fps, G&P O-rings tend to be a little undersized too, so id recomend replacing that, as for the explosive piston head, I find it to be one of the best piston heads ive ever used. One thing I would recomend doing if your going to stick a spring that is more powerful than an m120 is removing the washer/nut thing that G&P uses to hold the piston head on, it adds alot of weight and may leed to cracking. But as a whole this guns looks amazing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 I'm thinking it is the O-ring, as it makes the most sense in this case.... If you were to remove the factory lube that makes it compress well and re-lube with not so much lube, the O-ring would achieve less than optimal seal. You need to do the compression test(take cylinder assemble, cover the hole/tube on the cylinder head and attempt to force the piston/head through. If it goes through like butter there is your problem..... Hell, if you are even able to push it through there is your problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 Did you rip the hop-up rubber or crack a nozzle perchance? I could see that as a quick way that could be overlooked t loose a lot of FPS.  And as for my G&P M14, the waiting game continues I ordered it from AA, so its going to take a WHILE to get here   Still havent received yours? Would really like to know if you have any similar problems to the ones that Schaap had.    B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 (edited) No I would have posted immediately had I already got it.... I'm ordering an Xcortech Chrony soon too, so we'll be able to compare FPS very well (as Schaap has said he is getting one too ). I am gonna completely overhaul it with better parts(mostly prometheus internals), and when I do, I'll test all of the G&P compression parts to see which one is loosing seal... I am pretty sure its just an o-ring that needs stretching or a cylinder head that needs teflon taping though. Â Gotta remember I didn't order through WGC, rather I did it through Airsoft Advantage's Special Order program FROM WGC. So its gonna take like another week But then again, I saved $50+ Edited February 24, 2009 by Vercingetorix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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