bjorn Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Yeah NICE! Thanks for the heads up. Questions: How good is the compression starting from the piston head and ending with the nozzle tip. I know it is not an air-seal nozzle, so how good is it? Comparison to something else? Next: No bearing spring guide right? Why change the piston head? The G&P standard 3-hole one is pretty good, is it not? Is the cylinder head metal or plastic? What is the FPS stock? And mainly - how good is the G&P M14 hopup? Is it comparable to the Marui version or is it worse? I can not see it being any better lol. B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Abelius Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 G&P stainless steel nozzles have an o-ring and in my experience give better airseal than Systemas for example. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Well this weekend a friend and me are gonna do some camparos. He has a completely upgraded Marui, with a revamped internal setup, pushing 400 fps w/ .25s, and a PDI 6.01 barrel I sold him. I'll use excel .2s and .25s if I can get them in time (I am all outta bs as I haven't played in a while, my primary is awaiting fixing/ a new piston from tokyo model that I've yet to order) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 The only reason i'd replace the piston head is because it already had a stress mark (where the plastic gets lighter from bending) after only a few test shots at the shop I bought it from. Spring guide is not bearing, just plastic/standard. Tappet plate could be ok i guess, but the plastic is just shiney and cheap looking. Nozzle is plastic Airseal b/w cylinder and piston head is Ok, easialy pushed in by myself (without any grease) Hop-up seems ok, never seen a marui.....i was planning on switching for the TM tho. piston head is plastic cylinder head seems to be made of much better plastic that the tappet plate. motor looks nice, the only differance from others (that i can tell) is that it is super long adn has to rings around the 'stock' i guess (the peice the pinon gear is on) like i said earlier, decent shim job, AWESOME GEARS!! I don't know *that* much about gears, but to the untrained eye they look relly good, very crisp and precise lines. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 (edited) How long is the motor compared to a standard "long" type motor? I want to swap it for a Systema Magnum, but it'll only work if the long type is either the same size or longer than the DMR motor (If it is longer I can cut down the pinion shaft). I don't plan on stripping the gun down that far 'till I order my upgrade parts. Edited March 20, 2009 by Vercingetorix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 ok update: I was test fitting a bunch of stuff and noticed that the 'cage' that holds the trigger and safety on the right side of the gearbox (selector side) in held in by a screw that is too long on it enters into the gearbox. This could easialy be fixed with shims, but i thought the safest way to remedy it was just to shorten the screw a bit. BTW it is the screw the one on the right (if you are looking stright down at the right side of the gearbox. Also watch out for the screw that hold in the selector assembly; they also enter the gearbox . With the current piston they are easialy cleared, but idk about an aftermarket one. If you are ever in your gearbox, I would take the time to test fit everything to make sure none of the screws interfere with any operation. Also, no one freakout because of this, this is not a big deal, and even if you ignored it, nothing would probably happen, but I like to do all test (not fireing mind you ) with no shims, to make sure even in the worst conditions everything would be fine. Vercingetorix, idk the exact length of the motor shaft but i can measure it later for you. If you have any questions about the gun, I pretty much know it inside and out now, so send 'em my way Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted March 22, 2009 Report Share Posted March 22, 2009 Any shooting tests done? How well does it shoot compared to a Marui M14 or Cyma M14. Also what kind of FPS fluctuation to you get? What FPS does it really comes stock? B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted March 22, 2009 Report Share Posted March 22, 2009 Well those questions I can't answer, i didn't buy a battery . gonna be an Mk14 so I figured why waste my money on a battery i'd use once Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted March 22, 2009 Report Share Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) Skirmished it yesterday. Don't know if it was the bbs, or I didn't play with it enough, but it seemed to me that it was underhoping w/ .2s. I probably didn;t fiddle with it enough though. It double shoots (i.e. two cycles) with an 11.1v 30c lipo, but the ROF on my 9.6v 1500mah elite battery was crisp and good. The trigger pull was light and crisp on semi and the trigger response was very god with a 9.6v (aforementioned). I really only took a few seconds fooling with the hop-up, so in reality it was probably me just being lazy and unused to the stiffness of M14 hops (that click wheel is pretty hard to turn, good thing). It was consistent and I am sure if I had set it right it would have had good range too..... BTW, Oggy: If you have a large battery or any battery with deans you can fit it in the stock to test fire it... My 9.6v large (sub-c) 1700mah Nicad battery fits if you slant it in the stock, even with a large tamiya to deans adapter. When I get my new parts (I'll order em sometime this week) I'll clean up the GB screws and since I'll be ordering a chrony with the parts, I'll be able to get some god FPS testing done. Edited March 22, 2009 by Vercingetorix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 (edited) Might need a AB FET. The G&P M120 motor is quite powerful, we have that particular bug on all our guns equipped with the motor and good batteries Also we have found G&P hop up parts to be utter ######. Replace the bucking and rubber with Systema bits and degrease it thoroughly. We have had to shave the adjustment arm of some excess flash as well, dont know the particulars of the m14 hopup but i would take it apart and set it right. Edited March 27, 2009 by Azulsky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted March 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 (edited) Don't know if it was the bbs, or I didn't play with it enough, but it seemed to me that it was underhoping w/ .2s. Yes indeed, the standard hop-up bucking just doesn't do the trick... it might work with 0.20, but you're doomed with 0.25! I wonder what kind of velocities you guys get! Oh yes, one more thing: the safety doesn't cut the power like a TM does... Edited March 27, 2009 by Schaap Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 Huh? My safety works fine..... It doesn't require quite as much force to move as the TM does. But for the price and small niggles I would moist definitely say it is worth it. Now I am back from gettysburg, so I'll be placing my upgrade parts orders soon (also getting a chrony with the order). I'll do a chrono when it is still stock (also some rudimentary accuracy tests of before and after with excel .25s), a chrono with a rubber change, a chrono with a barrel and rubber change and then finally(edgi barrel, ported, and either a firefly hard bucking and hard nub ort prometheus purple and shredder scs). I'll then replace ALL the internals and see how it holds up (the shell is gonna stay, same with the switch and bearings for the moment, hopefully I'll be able to replace the motor with a magnum) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 (edited) What Schaap means is that the G&P has a mechanical safety, not electric. A big thing about the TM M14 was that when the safety was engaged it literally stopped power from reaching the motor, so the gun could not be fired. On the G&P the safety only blocks the trigger so it can't be moved......not a big deal, just a difference. EDIT: And vercingetorix, when I said I didn't buy a bettery, I forgot to say that I also don't have ANY batteries I am currently in the middle of a mass aitsoft clearout to fund my MK14 project, and trust me, NOTHING can stay, I need all the $$$ I can get, primarily cause I plan on buying my EBR direct from Japan (apperantly the Japanese version has trades on it). (and yes I am that much of a trademark junkie......i love them Edited March 30, 2009 by -=OGGY=- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Huh? My safety works fine..... It doesn't require quite as much force to move as the TM does. But for the price and small niggles I would moist definitely say it is worth it. Now I am back from gettysburg, so I'll be placing my upgrade parts orders soon (also getting a chrony with the order). I'll do a chrono when it is still stock (also some rudimentary accuracy tests of before and after with excel .25s), a chrono with a rubber change, a chrono with a barrel and rubber change and then finally(edgi barrel, ported, and either a firefly hard bucking and hard nub ort prometheus purple and shredder scs). I'll then replace ALL the internals and see how it holds up (the shell is gonna stay, same with the switch and bearings for the moment, hopefully I'll be able to replace the motor with a magnum) Hey, How far are you with ordering the chrono and the upgrade parts. Would really like to get some more info about tuning it and test firing with/without the upgrade parts. Cheers, Bjorn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Most of my parts and chrono got ordered last weekend(ie yesterday/saturday) I already have some of it. I still have to place a WGC order (paying tonight) and an EdGi order(once I measure the length). Pcs when I have it all. Oh and an update. EPIC FAIL!!!!!!! I have put less than 1k rounds through this gun and it already died. The Spur or sector gear lost a tooth after like 800 rounds. I was skirming it yesterday. it performed admirably until I heard *zing*. I opened her on the spot (only up to the removal of the motor cage) and found both bevel and pinion untouched, but the bevel moved freely, and there was a chunk of metal tooth there, and the bevel wasn't missing a tooth, so either the spur or sector died... Now I used a 9.6v 1500mah nimh for the first 500-600 rounds, so only 300 was on the Lipo and it went caput..... Also, when I opened her at home before this, I tooth them motor cage off, and when i was removing the trigger spring, I pulled it just a tad bit and it seems it is irreparably stretched out. The gun now no longer works on semi. Looks like I'll have to head to my nearest airsmith and pick up a spare (hopefully he'll have one ). On a good note, the motor is just a long type motor without the motor "tower" or "cone" and bearings on the shaft instead. I ordered a Magnum, so we'll see how easily/well it adapts/works. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Really want to know about the motor as soon as it arrives. Besides the gear failure - how did the hopup work and the longer range accuracy. Which weight and brand bb where u using? If you have ever shot a TM M15 before - did you get similar very long and flat floating bb trajectory with the hopup tuned in? Best to you, B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Oh my god... that IS EPIC FAIL. One brand after another is seriously letting me down. Come on, what is wrong? Though the DMR was cheap, you expect quality to a certain level. Not totally junk parts, gearboxes sculped out of butter and worthless everything... I hope you can fix it soon.. about the hop-up unit, it does not function as well as a TM SOPMOD.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Abelius Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 G&P gears are known to have serious flaws. At least you were lucky, usually the axles fail, taking bearings with them. Another weak part is the piston head with the awfully havey weight it screws into. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Well I bought the gun for the spoare parts and externals really, so I don't really mind the gears breaking too much. What ###### me off is the tigger spring as I can't find a replacement of that for my life. If anyone knows where you can get one, I'd be greatly indebted to said person. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Alright update: DMR build starting today.... All parts except for tbb in, and I found that the tappet spring is a perfect replacement for the trigger spring.... I'll take pictures of everything upon disassembly. When I finish this DMR build and have my primary back together, I plan on finishing this review/writing it for real. I'll be focusing on upgradeability.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 Alright update: DMR build starting today.... All parts except for tbb in, and I found that the tappet spring is a perfect replacement for the trigger spring.... I'll take pictures of everything upon disassembly. When I finish this DMR build and have my primary back together, I plan on finishing this review/writing it for real. I'll be focusing on upgradeability.... So hows it going? B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 UPDATE! Finally got to getting her apart today. LEt me say, the V7 GB is a work of art meant to befuddle all newcomers. There are soo many goddamn external springs and levers and screws!!!! The inside of the GB was COVERED with grease (the outside was too, only that was some high viscosity silicone oil or something, it too was EVERYWHERE!). Not the good kind either, that yucky green goo that CYMA likes to use. BAD! It was as if someone decided to fill the inside of the gearbox with the stuff. Anyway, most of the gearbox was pristine. The Spur gear(as I'd suspected) was COMPLETELY shot. It was missing like 10 teeth all over. The thing is, everything else in the gearbox was unblemished and untouched. The bevel gear, piston, spur gear, etc showed NO signs of wear or stress. When I degreased everything it was clear(I compared it with a TM spur and a Promy spur) that the spur gear was NOT good quality metal or the adverted steel. The Bevel and Sector on the other hand appear very well made out of some heavy steel(definitely steel, compared it with my promy sector, my RIOTSC sector, my CA sector, etc.). Even though I had pulled the trigger multiple times after the gear blew out, the myriad of little tooth pieces didn't damage anything else (again probably because they are made out of ###### soft metal). The Spring guide is a plastic staid affair. It is super shiny as is the tappet and nozzle. The cylinder head is a more matte black and is probably made out of a better plastic(as I'd hope). I don't think the nozzle, tappet and spring guide are all that great, but there was no wear on them insofar. Since the spur was gone I couldn't check the shimming, but there were a LOT of shimms (like .3mm ones, 3-4 on the tops of the bevel and spur gear a piece). It sounded quite nice when it worked though Not to many shimms on the bottom of the gears. The sector had zero shims on the top(which could or could not be fine). The bears were usual G&P 7mm ones, pretty nice ones at that. The piston was a G&P Polycaetal white and there was an "explosive" piston head. There was petroleum grease all in the cylinder. Not good for the o-rings. The cylinder was a regular old V7 non-ported brass type thing. The spring is probably like an m110 or something akin to that. I never got to chrono it stock because it broke before then Any other questions while I have it open (I'll probably only close it up sometime the end of this week so ask away). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Double post, sorry. Just noticed this: http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=5009 Perfect and cheap(if you know your way around a GB) way to fix a G&P m14 nice n good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Weird...my GB was bone dry... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 ...that yucky green goo that CYMA likes to use. Nothing green here, just plain grease.... not bone dry either! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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