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G&P GBB M4A1 family


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Can anyone give a decent review on the accuracy past at least 100ft? After months of talk bout WA Inokatsu G&P and WE noone is giving good descriptions on range and how accurately this gun performs. Most info and inquiries I see are what RS parts and other cosmetics can be slapped on.

 

Ranges of 150-200ft would be awesome as well. I want to make sure this will be a "skirmishable" platform to work with.

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Many of the WA rifle failures have been due to user error, but if you scratch build a rifle say from an AGM m4 base; you'll soon realize the finickiness of the WA design. Buy a premade rifle and most

GoldenBall .3's are very good.

Yep, they will fit.  

I'm sure me and uscmcorps will examine that when we get ours and get out to a field. But it's really hard to do a 100ft test without having wind be a factor. I wouldn't expect anything special though. Short inner barrel in a GBB shouldn't yield great results without a heavy BB. I'll be looking at using .28g+ bb's primarily. And we will most likely be very distracted by doing 2-gun ipsc challenges.

 

My WA 1911 is all over the place with .25 and .20, but with .36's it's pretty accurate.

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I'm sure me and uscmcorps will examine that when we get ours and get out to a field. But it's really hard to do a 100ft test without having wind be a factor. I wouldn't expect anything special though. Short inner barrel in a GBB shouldn't yield great results without a heavy BB. I'll be looking at using .28g+ bb's primarily. And we will most likely be very distracted by doing 2-gun ipsc challenges.

 

My WA 1911 is all over the place with .25 and .20, but with .36's it's pretty accurate.

 

I'm not so much into if it is a laser in accuracy, but even my KJW 1911 can hit a man sized target @ 100ft & .25g. I'm more worried about if it can reach out 100ft, 150ft, or more. If this rifle is capable of hitting something at 150ft+ would make it worthy of skirmishing with IMO.

Edited by sadman
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Shooting 450+ using .2's and the g&p 370mm 6.08 inner barrel + hop-up chamber set. I use .3's or .36's when skimishing, the fps number was more of a guideline since everyone chrono's with .2's. As far as accuracy + grouping goes i did an accuracy test at 33ft and 60ft on gasguns.info and I also used this combination at the game i played and i'm pretty sure it can reach out to 150ft, but not with "laser accuracy" and to me that's more important than range with this gun. AEG's can spray that range so it will have more of an advantage. The WA systems best shine on semi while full-auto loses range by about half the distance probably due to the recoil.

 

edit: i should note though that some people are having problems with shots with probably 50fps force behind it on their WOC g&p guns.

Edited by shinhk
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the infamous "pissing shots" where the bb's practically roll out of the barrel. Gas paths in gbb guns go forward and back. When there's floating valve problems and more gas goes back instead of forward, the bb's either shoot with very little pressure behind them, or it doesn't get ANY pressure and ends up double feeding because no gas goes forward to propel the bb out. Sometimes when it does glitch, it fires so weak that it's probably just 50fps worth of pressure behind it.

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Sometimes that's true. The nozzle set that comes with the g&p's don't have the floating valve spring. The reason why others took it out was so that even if the bb was sitting a little bit forward, the float valve wouldn't have the pressure from the spring to close it and it "should" stay in the open position. There's still problems with the hop-up chamber in all my set-ups but i'm slowly getting it down to a good combination.

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Received my G&P SR16 GBB today. I installed an ambi-selector and it works nicely. Haven't had a chance to fire it yet. I have it setup the same as my other SR16 (Chris Costa style) except with all black furniture including a black Magpul MIAD, black Magpul CTR, black aimpoint rubber cover, and a black Surefire M900. I'll have to take a picture of it side by side with my VFC SR16 E3 URX, before I install the Magpul UDE furniture on it.

 

Overall finish feels the same as a regular G&P AEG. Not as nice as my VFC SR16, but I'm kinda spoiled by that now I realize. There is a little play between the upper and lower. It could be better, but to be honest, it's not the end of the world. It still functions and TBH, I've felt that much movement in real ARs I've handled.

 

So far so good.

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VFC SR16-E3 URX AEG on the left. G&P SR16 GBB on the right.

 

sr16comparisonsz1.jpg

 

I kinda wish I had a black replica PEQ-15 for the GBB... but it'd go to waste as this is probably the only time we'll ever see my GBB in this configuration. Tonight I'm ditching all the black accessories, and the Magpul/LaRue UDE furniture goes on it.

 

One of my teammates said that when he receives his, he'll probably polish the bolt to a near chrome finish. I might have to do that too. I'm not a big fan of the G&P finish as it is.

 

 

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God how I envy you Corps..just pure envy. Its like the good and bad side of Chris Costa, the good side goes with the lighter gun, and the bad evil side with the darker gun..kinda like spiderman and venom. Although the black PEQ-15 would add the final touch and what not. Still, very very nice guns bro. Hope to see them together at the shop soon! ;)

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Added the LaRue Urban Dark Earth Accessory kit and a KNS Precision Gen 2 MOD 2 Low Profile Non-Rotating Hammer & Trigger Pins.

 

Sorry for the crappy lighting... it was kinda cloudy out today.

ude01sd4.jpgude02az4.jpg

 

Unlike the Gen 1 pins that look similar, the Gen 2 MOD 2 pins use a slot joint to hold the hammer pin in place rather than screws. Thanks to that slot joint there's a certain amount of lateral adjustment which is good because the trigger and hammer pics are a little closer together than a real AR (by about 2mm). As a result, the Gen 1 pin set won't work (I've tried) but the Gen 2 and Gen 2 MOD 2 work fine. The trigger pin was easy to insert as it comes with a screw on attachment that makes pushing the old trigger pin out using the new trigger pin very easy. The hammer spring has the extruded pieces on either end (like a flat head screw driver) which makes pushing the old pin out with the new pin not as easy as the trigger pin... but not too painful either. Either way it's a small addition that I see a LOT of RS users starting to use, and I personally like the looks of it.

 

One thing I noticed that no one else seems to have mentioned is that the rail on the upper receiver seems slightly out of spec. It's not a problem mounting optics the screw on mounts, but mounts with throw arms seem to have considerable difficulty locking down. Anyone else noticed this?

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I have a few questions regarding the G&P system, addressed to uscmCorps or anyone who knows.

 

1.) What is the front receiver thread? Can you install front ends/rail systems using barrel nuts designed for real AR15s?

2.) What is the stock buffer tube width? Commercial, military, or neither?

3.) Can you install grips intended for real AR15s?

3.) Would you consider this a good skirmish weapon out of the box?

4.) If not in 3, what do you think needs to be upgraded/changed?

 

And pertaining specifically to the G&P body

 

1.) There are dimensional differences between the G&P receiver and the real deal/Prime's WA bodies/WE's M4 body. What are they?

2.) What particular aftermarket accessories are compatible with the G&P receiver? In particular, what bolt carrier/nozzle setups and what hop-up/hop-up conversions to allow use of AEG inner barrels?

 

Thanks to anyone who answers.

Edited by slu
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1.) What is the front receiver thread? Can you install front ends/rail systems using barrel nuts designed for real AR15s?

I do believe it's RS spec.

 

2.) What is the stock buffer tube width? Commercial, military, or neither?

Mil spec stocks fit it perfectly

 

3.) Can you install grips intended for real AR15s?

Yes. I've installed RS MIADs and RS TangoDown Pistol Grips

 

3.) Would you consider this a good skirmish weapon out of the box?

It's much more so than the out of the box WA GBB M4 was. Skirmishable? I'd say so. I and two others on my team will be using them during a team practice session next weekend.

 

4.) If not in 3, what do you think needs to be upgraded/changed?

One thing that is noticeable is the wobble between the upper and lower receiver. It wasn't horrible... but it was there. One of my teammates read on a RS forum that a lot of RS gun owners get rid of wobble by slipping on a #7 O-ring onto the front pin lug on the upper receiver. I tried that and it worked like a charm. No wobble now.

Another issue I noticed was the recoil spring in the buffer tube. I can hear it bounce around in there after every shot. I'm not sure if that's because the spring is too short resulting in the spring being under less tension, or if it's because the spring is too narrow relative to the buffer tube's inner diameter. I'll probably try both the regular WA spring from my other WA and my Airsoft Surgeon spring and see how they compare. Now that this has all steel components, I'd imagine it'll handle the AS spring much better than the stock WA did.

 

And pertaining specifically to the G&P body

1.) There are dimensional differences between the G&P receiver and the real deal/Prime's WA bodies/WE's M4 body. What are they?

Not sure.

 

2.) What particular aftermarket accessories are compatible with the G&P receiver? In particular, what bolt carrier/nozzle setups and what hop-up/hop-up conversions to allow use of AEG inner barrels?

The G&P is pretty much a high end WA. Any product made for the WA will more than likely work on the G&P. The Inokatsu guns and Prime bodies are much more finicky from what I understand.

AFAIK, there are currently two HopUp assemblies made to allow you to use AEG inner barrels:

Prime Hop Up barrel Guide for WA M4A1 Series with AEG Inner Barrels

PGC Hop Up Kit for WA M4 Series

I have no idea how either one is, or if they are compatible with the G&P. The Prime Hop-up seems more promising.

 

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