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Korppi

G&P GBB M4A1 family

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Can anyone tell me if G&P AEG hand guards will fit on a WOC?

 

I tried to fit King Arms AEG plastic hand guards onto my WOC back then when I had one, it didn't fit. Don't know if that's any help to you...

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Depends on the handguard. G&P do sell their WA system handguards separate from their AEG line of handguards, and both are labelled differently for the relevant type of gun, so I'm guessing by that the barrel nut thread on a WOC vs AEG is going to be different. Of course if it's standard plastic handguards/KAC RIS/CASV/MOE handguard then you'll be fine, barrel nut makes no difference.

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Yeah, I'm planning on putting on standard plastic hand guards that have been taken off a G&P AEG. I'm told they fit on a real steel AR and WOCs can take real steel furniture so in theory they should fit....

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USGI type plastic handguards should be just fine, worst case scenario if the length is a bit off you can just get a different front handguard cap to change it slightly.

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Guys can I get some quick responses of your thoughts on the Magpul G&P M4 GBBR as far as the internals and build? Anyone heard good things about them? etc ......Link: MAGPUL G&P M4

 

I don't have experience with the X series but the standard WOC has been my favorite airsoft gun ever. 2.5 years and the only thing internally changed in mine is the innerbarrel/hop and the bolt carrier group! everything else is amazing!

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I'm expecting majority of GBBers will say "Prowin V2.0". I've not owned one of those myself but have 6xProwin V1.0 & 2-3x Bomber V1.0. I am either very lucky with my Bombers 'cos they have been holding their gas well for over 18 months. My Prowins OTOH, 2/6 leak.

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I just ran my GBB for an OP this past weekend.

 

My old GHK mags are still going strong... well... maybe not strong but they're still working as they did when I got them.

 

I have an EB mag (the ones that come with Viper guns) and it leaked out of the box. But it's a round seal design so I can fix it.

 

I tested out 2 new prototype mags that were promising. Round seals, lightweight, but the feed was not perfect. I had to modify the feed lips a bit to allow feed, but by that time they were just a bit loose for reliable operation. Other than that they were perfect so I'd expect them to make it to production.

 

I should note that I run semi-auto only and my gun is now more of a melting pot of parts than a G&P. Most notably, I'm running an RATech aluminum Bolt, Prime steel BC, RATech buffer spring, RATech inner barrel, RATech hopup rubber.

 

There are 2 parts of failure on mags.

1. Static seals. These are the structural components of the mags. For WA mags, this would be the large rectangular o-ring that doesn't hold up to the pressure.

 

2. Dynamic seals. These are the o-rings on the moving part of the output valve. In my experience, excessive use of the gun leads to the output vale becoming sticky. This is due to dust and debris getting into the moving action of the valve due to the open design and also due to the poor qualities of silicone oil as the lubricant.

 

This past weekend I tried out some MD Labs XF7 grease on those valves and had promising results. The thicker grease helped out with the seals and didn't leak out as much resulting in less debris getting into the valves. I did this on 1 GHK mag and that mag worked the best at the end of the day out of the 8 I ran with.

 

Next I'm going to try out Dow 55 o-ring grease which is supposed to be o-ring wizardry. My goal is to be able to grease all my seals with a low friction, low adhesion lube and then run pure propane with no silicone since it seems that silicone is the item that causes my failures.

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This is abit of a necro post

 

I took my Woc apart the other day to find that the big rubber disc from this pack ( http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/gandp-hop-up-rubber-set-for-wa-m4-gbb-series.html ) Had pretty much disintegrated, I had nothing to replace it with so i just put it back together with out it, What does this effect?

 

Cheers

 

John

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Current poll: what mags is everyone using? What are your favorites and your least favorites?

 

 

G&P PMags - I've used them in 5 games now; Not a single sign of a leak, they feed perfectly and activate the bolt catch every time without fail. I've used them without a hitch in 5 celsius 'n all. The paint is only wearing as a result of the mag catch - Other than that they're still jet black after several dings and being stored in fastmags. Silent fill valves and a decent gas capacity. I can't fault them at all really.

 

 

Anyhow - I've been using my WOC for said 5 games now, all in reasonably cold weather. It's been performing just fine. I've got 2 uppers for it, the stock one and another G&P one pre-built by Ehobby. The G&P upper has a G&P hop, the original upper has an RA-tech. I've chopped the barrel with a hacksaw in both uppers to bring the FPS down without an NPAS, and both are shooting 340-350 on .2's at room temperature. Both are laser accurate to insane ranges with a .28.

 

Anyhoo, 2 main reasons I'm posting...

 

Firstly - I'm finally starting to suffer a failure; The feed nozzle has worn a little, and occasionally slips over the BB rather than chambering one. I'm intending on a new nozzle obviously, but will filing it to a flat face again help at all, or just prevent any feeding at all? Basically the bottom edge has rounded, allowing it to skip the BB's. Is it better to deal with one or two missfeeds, potentially at an awkward moment, or shave the loading tab flat to try and fix it?

 

Secondly - I keep hearing about G&P hops, or the WA hop design in general, being useless... Out the box, both my RA tech hop and G&P hop didn't really apply enough pressure to send a .28, and were a little inconsistent. Has anyone else tried putting a spring in the little hole above the hop arm and sliding the barrel collar over it to keep it in place? I've found this puts pressure down on the arm above the BB, which is counterracted by the pressure of the adjustment wheel. Since doing this, I've got a gun that outranges everything at my site with a .28, and it's the most accurate thing I've ever owned.

 

Overall I'm baffled, I thought WOC's were meant to be unreliable and fiddly. So far all I've found is that using G&P parts and G&P mags has given me a stunning looking, unbelievably fun, ultra reliable, hard hitting and laser accurate supergun. I'm the only exclusive GBBR user at my local site other than a couple of guys who bust out G39's occasionally, and people are utterly terrified of this thing. It's taken 12,000 rounds to suffer any ill effects, and if I don't manage to fix it for free it's going to cost me about $30 for a new nozzle... Am I just lucky, or have all the reports of anything WA based being useless been immensely exaggerated?

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Immensely exaggerated, Admittedly ive had some issues with mine but nothing that i haven't been able to fix. On my nozzle the crowning went all weird so i got a round bit of metal heated it up and re-made the crowning

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I bought a vpr magpul sniper and I love its look !

First bad new, ehobby shipped it to me with the bolt carrier / nozzle plastic clip broken...

Second bad new the bolt stop has a little part moving that completely locks my bolt backwards and I have to press on it through the window to reset...

Third bad new, only my g&p black pmags fit to the magwell !

I can't understand why my FDE pmags and g&p standard mag are not fitting !

 

That's a lot, but since I always had issues with GBBR before using them and since this G&P has a great finish and is nearly ready to play, I'm happy.

 

I have leaky wa mags, 1 g&p mag and 6 g&p pmags

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Hey guys, so what's the NEED to replace parts for the G&Ps?

 

If I don't get a LM4 in my Evike box I'm thinking about picking up a G&P to build.

Edited by akiraspeedstar

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Many of the WA rifle failures have been due to user error, but if you scratch build a rifle say from an AGM m4 base; you'll soon realize the finickiness of the WA design. Buy a premade rifle and mostly you will avoid most if not all of the problems of a scratch build but there are always lemon rifles.

 

I have a 2011 Viper m4 (similar to a WOC except for the steel BC and aluminium nozzle), I've had it for over year and put through around 4000-6000 rounds(during skirmishes; MANY more if you count dry firing and plinking) through it and no problems. The only hiccups I dealt with were the e-clip jumping out during a skirmish and a torn Hop-up bucking. The bucking tear was entirely my fault and not the guns; after having replaced the bucking the gun is shoot like a laser with .28s once again.

 

For a WA system rifle to be skirmishable you need: Full Steel LPK, Quality BC(does not have to be steel), Aluminium nozzle or a plastic one with a metal nozzle tip, NPAS if your fps is high, AND PROWIN V2 mags(do not leak)

 

Hop-up chambers are personal preference but I would say either G&Ps or Vipers

 

and for the bucking; I would go with RA-Tech but right now i have a guarder 50 degree bucking installed

 

As long as you function check and make sure no parts are catching or grinding against each other, your rifle WILL be skirmish ready!

 

Been free from sewing machines for a year and not going back

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Hello, I have a quick question.

 

Does the G&P Magpul GBB magazine for for the WA/G&P WOC? Do they peform well? leakage? wear? fitting? reliability?

 

Thanks

Rob!

Edited by Robinio

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