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BennyBaker

DMRs

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The last bits of work on my L129. A working ambidextrous mag release.

 

Nice work on your build! I went for an AR-10 base for mine. I'll get some nicer pictures up later, but here's one from a game yesterday:

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I used an Element 12" Noveske rail, a 16" knights barrel and a Battleaxe 7.62NATO break. I'm going to put on a G&P LMT Ergo pistol grip soon, along with a SOPMOD stock to replace the IMOD.

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My 10/22 collection

Top to bottom

Tanio Koba 10/22

KJW KC-02 W/RA-Tech sniper kit full steel internals (my current project)

KJW KC-02

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I've installed a custom made real carbon barrel to teh KC-02 and I have a stock but I can't find a friend carpenter to mod it for me! I really don't want to screw that thing and I don't trust my skills!

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Wolf

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I'm going to be fitting an Ergo pistol grip as soon as i can spare £20 to buy one from Hong Kong. ....... & i'm still tempted to paint it Tan. Tempted but i can't bring myself to do it yet as it will cover over the trades.

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OK chaps, after some advice about upgrading my son's A&K SR25. Playing in the UK, this type of DMR must be locked to semi-auto and is generally limited to a maximum of 450fps, so that applies some limits to what we can do.

The current plan is for a tight bore barrel - 6.03 or possibly even 6.01 - of about 430mm, R-Hop, M130 spring, Element Silent piston/cylinder head combo, high torque motor and 11.1v LiPo. Replacing the gears is also a possibility, although they do look to be in decent condition, but what ratio would be most appropriate - there seems to be a variety available? By the way, the gearbox is the A&K extended V2.

The idea is for these mods is to improve consistency and power, to go with the whole idea of a DMR - the only problem we have been having is a tendency for it to lock up after a few shots. It's the usual V2 issue that is generally solved in the field with a quick flick to Auto, which of course isn't possible if you're locked to Semi... Improved trigger discipline will no doubt help (allow it to fully reset after each shot, don't snatch when going for double taps), and these mods may also help, but any advice/suggestions gratefully received!

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Locking is a common problem with version 2 gearboxes so some sort of MOSFET would definately help. I fitted an ASCU v2 in my gun & changed the selector lever so it only fires of semi.I've never had any problems with my gear box locking up. It doesn't have to be an ASCU there are other types of MOSFET out there people will recommend.

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OK chaps, after some advice about upgrading my son's A&K SR25. Playing in the UK, this type of DMR must be locked to semi-auto and is generally limited to a maximum of 450fps, so that applies some limits to what we can do.

The current plan is for a tight bore barrel - 6.03 or possibly even 6.01 - of about 430mm, R-Hop, M130 spring, Element Silent piston/cylinder head combo, high torque motor and 11.1v LiPo. Replacing the gears is also a possibility, although they do look to be in decent condition, but what ratio would be most appropriate - there seems to be a variety available? By the way, the gearbox is the A&K extended V2.

The idea is for these mods is to improve consistency and power, to go with the whole idea of a DMR - the only problem we have been having is a tendency for it to lock up after a few shots. It's the usual V2 issue that is generally solved in the field with a quick flick to Auto, which of course isn't possible if you're locked to Semi... Improved trigger discipline will no doubt help (allow it to fully reset after each shot, don't snatch when going for double taps), and these mods may also help, but any advice/suggestions gratefully received!

 

Replace the selector to lock it to semi auto, first off.

 

Barrel wise, I'd go for a 6.05mm tightbore for accuracy. I have several 6.05mm tightbores in AEGs and they will very slightly outperform 6.03mm tightbores with regards to accuracy. You have two choices - Prometheus ASH barrels (coated brass) and PDI 6.05mm barrels (stainless steel). The PDI will be more expensive, but more stable and perform better - though how much better versus the increase in cost is the pertinent question. The Prometheus ASH is cheaper and easier to cut for an ER-hop, if you want to go down that route.

 

IIRC the stock A&K motor is a neo motor - Black body and blue endbell? If so, leave it, it's already a monster torque. If not, Go for an SHS high torque or a Guarder Infinite Torque neo motor.

 

Gears wise, it becomes a little interesting. The A&K gears are fine, but have 19 teeth as opposed to 15. The longer piston/gear set up is to provide enough cylinder volume to lob heavier bbs further, but you have the carbine version of the SR25 and so that extra volume will not be needed, and will lead to overvoluming unless you ONLY run 0.43g bbs through it. Overvoluming will reduce your accuracy and increase the muzzle crack, which as a DMR you do not want.

 

My advice is to go with a 15 tooth piston and gearset. This will give you a more balanced cylinder/barrel volume and increase your rate of fire and trigger response.

 

There are two ways to do this:

 

1) Get a standard 15 tooth piston and piston head, then pop a 10mm spacer in between them so the piston is the right length.

 

2) Get a 19 tooth piston with a full metal tooth rack or a 7 tooth rack. SHS make one.

 

Whichever piston you get, you'll need to remove the second tooth from the back for AOE.

 

Then, pair that with a set of SHS 16.1 or 13.1 gears. The 13.1s will be faster and give you better trigger response, but are more likely to fail at M130 levels.

 

Speaking of which, I'd recommend holding off on the spring until you've done all of other mods. The V2.5 gearboxes are a bit odd when it comes to spring ratings and output power as a result of the longer cylinder. IIRC an M140 will get you around about 450.

 

Finally, I'd avoid the silent piston head set. It doesn't really silence all that much. Go for a steel cylinder head (SHS, ELEMENT, Guarder, whatever) and a standard polymer piston head (Element orange is cheap and damn good). Put a sorbothane pad on the cylinder head (this will adjust your AOE, reduce noise and make your gearbox last longer). Radius the gearbox shell at the front of the cylinder window. Seal the cylinder to the cylinder head with silicone sealant or liquid gasket.

 

Finally, install an airnozzle with an oring. CA make one, as do SHS.

 

And of course, any mosfet will do. I'd avoid Active Breaking ones though, as they'll eat your motor quicker and are only really needed to stop overspin, which will not be a problem in your set up.

Edited by DarkLite
  • Like 1

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Thanks for that comprehensive reply! I replaced the nozzle recently. I couldn't find a dedicated one, and ended up using one for an Aug as that seems to have the correct dimensions, etc. and has proved to work so far.

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Which Harris bipod is that?  They seem to have a few on there, not too bad price either.  If you come across an extra in your stash, I'd be more than happy to talk to you about taking it off your hands.  Thanks for the heads up

 

Edit: Failed to read the word "adaptor", was this the part you were referring to? http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/Harris-Bipod-Adapter-US-Made-187p909.htm#.UssI6mRDu-o

Edited by Seraphim989

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Sorry. I've just double Derped. The one I was thinking about was on a different site, AND it was just another picatinny adaptor lol! When I pop back to see my parents I havea root around for another bipod.

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Finally one of my KC-02 is almost ready!

All steel internals, the only stock parts are the hop up housing, some screws and the actual receiver!!
The only think I might do is to polish the sides of the receiver as it's on the TK 10/22!
But I'll do that at much later time...!

The scope is too big... I've my 3-9x40 on a SR25 and it's at my home, I'll take some photo's again when I have more time.

The stock is a Magnum Research Barracuda and the barrel custom made carbon barrel by Woogie! Again thank you mate!!

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Wolf

  • Like 4

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Salute!

 

I have been lurking around here for a long time so time to participate eh?

 

Here is my DMR`ish WE M4:

 

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Edited by Parzi

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Is the accuracy better/worse with the ra-tech barrel? Stock accuracy on these rifles are supposedly pretty good already. I'd upgrade barrel length primarely for more energy.

Edited by jal3

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Yes it was slightly improved... Till I installed the Falcon bucking!

That thing is way too sensitive and over hops .40g bb too easy!

I can't tune it properly!

 

I can't find a good bucking for the RA Tech barrel and this is the main reason I went towards the VSR conversion.

 

 

Wolf

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