renegadecow Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Fixed and refinished a beat up old 3" Kokusai Python. The boob that owned it last seems to have used WD40 or some other petroleum distilate which softened up the frame enough that the side plate pops out when the hammer and trigger springs are installed. I've also converted it to take Win Gun shells as Kokusai shells are pretty hard to come by. The gas route still leaks a lot though, probably from the frame flexing so is only doing a mere 192fps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatgutViolin Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 (edited) Got my hands on a pair of Umarex Single Action Army revolvers in 6mm. Â Â Also, they work with the homemade 'ratshot' shells: Â Â Which I originally built for my Wingun: Â Â The shells can hold up to six BBs and are intended for Wingun revolvers, but seem to work in the Umarex SAAs despite being slightly undersized for the chambers, so I suspect they'll work in a variety of revolvers. They're made from vinyl tubing sleeved inside deprimed .357 magnum cases with the primer pockets bored out. If anyone's interested I wrote a how-to guide on making them- have a read and let me know what you all think. Edited July 26, 2016 by CatgutViolin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Safeword Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Anyone here own a Tanaka Ruger Super Redhawk of any sorts? Thinking about maybe buying one soon but can't really find much info or pictures of it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Papaman Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 My latest projekt, Tanaka M19 2,5HW. Blued with Birchwood casey aluminium black. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 The zinc in the heavyweight ABS was able to take cold blue?!? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Papaman Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Yes but i diluted the bluing liquid a lot with water otherwise it will just turn black. i read a lot of Japanese blogs about model guns and they are experts on bluing heavy weight plastic and make it look like blued steel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Please.. PLEASEEEEE GIVE ME DETAILS HOW YOU DID IT. Â ? want to blue a Zeke slide and I don't know how! Â Â Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatgutViolin Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) A few days ago I got a pair of Well Webleys, because for $57 USD apiece I couldn't resist. True to form, one of them arrived already broken, and I had to take it apart and modify the hammer spring just to get it to shoot. Still, the build quality is otherwise on par with Wingun and the price can't be argued with. The one on the bottom is stock, while the one on top I have hit with a bit of steel wool, buffed with graphite, and sealed with a matte varnish:   So, one thing I found interesting is that the Well Webley's cylinder catch isn't the same as the real thing. When the frame is fully broken open, the catch is released:   Which allows the cylinder to come right out:   Now, the solution to this is pretty simple. You just tighten the screws on the catch plate to hold it shut, and then it keeps the cylinder in place. But, while inaccurate to the real thing, I have to wonder if this could be used to by keeping a spare cylinder handy, as opposed to using a speedloader. On that note, speedloaders for Wingun revolvers will not work. This gun is a duplicate of the .455 Webley MkVI, which has a larger cylinder than most .357 revolvers, but the shells themselves are .357 sized so .45 speedloaders don't work. I currently have a pair of Ruger Redhawk speedloaders on the way, so I'll see if those work- they're the largest speedloaders in .357 I've found. Anyways, because I can't leave well enough alone I went and made some homemade shells for this piece too:   These are the same method as I linked to earlier, but using cut-down .357 and .38 casings because the taper of the shells that come with the gun prevents unmodified casings from fitting, and reducing the length of the tubing by about 2mm since the cylinder is shorter than on .357 Winguns. Once so modified, they chamber perfectly in the cylinder, and it's easy to see if a shell has been fired or not:   And they extract easily:   I'm a big fan of the Webley design. The top-break and extraction/ejection system is easy and less prone to fumbling than swing-out cylinders, and it fits very comfortably in my hands. I haven't had the chance to test the fixed hop-up, but the gun is doing over 450fps with a single BB, so it should be able to do ~350fps with 3 BBs per shell and reach out to however far the hop will take it. Should make for a fun sidearm.  Oh, and I need to figure out how to strap five revolvers to myself for CQB games. And/or buy another four Webleys. I don't have a problem, I swear. Edited August 15, 2016 by CatgutViolin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Papaman Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Please.. PLEASEEEEE GIVE ME DETAILS HOW YOU DID IT.  ? want to blue a Zeke slide and I don't know how!   Wolf It takes some time but start with sanding the slide with 400,600,800 and 1200 grit sandpaper until you have a really smooth surface and then polish it too mirror like shine. mix around a third of a bottle of aluminium black witch ca 1l water, clean the slide with degreaser, dip it in the solution for a couple of minutes and wash it of with water, let it dry, brush of the blackish sooth with a soft brush. re-do the dipping at least three times, at first you will get a blueish, black color and after a couple of dips it will turn to a more almost chromed surface, at this time the HW material won't absorb more bluing liquid and it is time to rinse it properly with water again. let it dry for a day! Now you will hopefully have something that is looking like blued steel :-) it takes a lot of trial and error before you get a good result and the color also changes over time so don't be afraid if it not is as dark as you want it the first day, it will get darker over a long time after you finish the dipping ( a couple of months according to the blogs i have read)  have a look at http://nakablue.exblog.jp to get some inspiration!  Good luck/ Papaman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Thank you very much. I really appreciate your help . Â Â Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paranoiddroid Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 (edited) Is there a source for well Webley shells yet? And are the WG Wembley shells undersized like the well ones or are they a true .455? I want to get a Wembley and want to know if my speedstrip trick will work? Â Something I picked up from competition revolver shooters using 45acp revolvers or the 9mm guns pre speed loaders being common. Â Buy a magazine that will feed the rounds so for 357 a desert eagle mag could work I guess or a Coonan arms for 45acp or .455 a 1911 mag will work afaik since you can shoot 45 in a Webley and there have been 455 1911s. Â Basically you hold the mag in your hand and thumb cartridges from the magazine into the cylinder. It isn't as fast as a speed loader but it's faster than loose rounds or speed strips. May not work great on the Webley being break action but could be worth a go Edited August 20, 2016 by paranoiddroid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatgutViolin Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 The Webley shells have the same dimensional base as the regular Wingun shells- meaning, they're .357, not .455, so you'll need .357/.38 speed strips to load them, which is what I do. If you want a speedloader, I bought a pair of speedloaders for the Ruger Redhawk that work great. Don't try using 'generic' speedloaders, the Webleys are using .357 shells in a .455 cylinder so you need a speedloader specifically designed for a very large revolver to function. Â Using a magazine to feed loose rounds definitely works. I have an AMT Automag III whose magazines serve double duty as speedloaders for my airsoft single actions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingman Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Speed loaders for S&W mod 27/28 .357 revolvers might work as they are built on the N frame that is the same sized frame as used for the mod 29 .44 magnum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clockwork_O Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Custom Engraved Umarex SAA c02 Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paranoiddroid Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) That's really disappointing that they didn't either do the 38version or the full .455 shells version I mean all that time on a gorgeous set of externals ruined by that niggling detail  That saa is pretty but isn't it a pellet gun?   Also does anyone know of a speed loader that fits the normal Dan Wesson branded revolvers? Edited August 27, 2016 by paranoiddroid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doc_Glock Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 (edited) Yes! Search for HKS 10-A speedloader it works fine and is even cheaper than the ASG original one.  I've tried them and I bought three of them at £9 a piece. Edited August 28, 2016 by Doc_Glock Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 Tanaka SAA with Zeke metal kit. Â Â Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigAl Posted August 29, 2016 Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 Should get rid of those medallion grips and get some period appropriate ones on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted August 29, 2016 Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 To be honest I kinda like them. If I replace them I might get pearl grips. Â Â Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Take a look of how time affects brass.. This is my Prime brass single action army. Time come for me to give it a nice polish. The fingerprints are oxidation can't be wiped !! Â Â Â I thoughtI could get away with the gun disassembled like this but in the end I took it down completely. It was a much harder and time consuming process when compared to polishing a 1911. Â This is how it looks the end result make up for the hours lost . Â Â Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Put clear coat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 No I haven't put any clear coat on. I'm thinking to wax it. Â Â Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaZero Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Personally I think it looks better slightly oxidised.. Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 It's brass, so it's not going to corrode. I would just polish it up whenever I needed to take it somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Surely gold-plating it would preserve the finish and remove the need to keep polishing it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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