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Review: G&P URX (sr-15) Front kit


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Background:

In the world of airsoft, it seems as if 90% of the replicas are based off the M4 platform, and rightfully so. After all, it retains the highest number of aftermarket accessories and arguably can be the most unique platform. However, it also seems that the majority of M4s all look alike, with little to differentiate them. Thus one enters my dilemma. I want something different from the rest of the herd, but it seems as if the normal KAC RAS is way too common and even the Troy rails too ordinary. After the release of the KAC IWS rifles, I was hooked – I wanted a URX. So, after many months of in-my-head debating, I bought it.

 

The Exchange:

The URX is quite expensive, with most places selling it at a price upwards of $200 w/o shipping. I found it on Ehobbyasia for $155, with $32 shipping and a 5% discount. Not too shabby. The whole shipping process took a week, with Ehobby being on Chinese New year for 3 of those days. Finally, on 2/06/09, it arrived

 

 

Initial Impressions:

The URX is a beautiful piece, the finish even better than on my G&P metal body. It has a somewhat rough texture and a very flat finish. It was pretty much drop dead gorgeous (in my eyes). However, I was quite disappointed (though I expected it from the online pictures) that it came with NO rail covers or KAC Vert Grip.

Package:

DSC_6669.jpg

 

Rail:

DSC_6667.jpg

 

Trades: You can see they sharpied? out the Knights. Sort of

DSC_6666.jpg

 

Installation:

The URX was a B**** to install. I mean that in it took 2 hours to install. First off, I had no specialized tools (nut wrench, etc) to even take off the old barrel assembly. Once it was off, I realized that the URX came with NO instructions. So I had to figure it out by myself. (Trust me, this wasn't very easy to install. There were two rings that went inside the RIS itself). Furthermore, I choose not to buy the $40 tool that is "required" to install the URX. Installation is quite complicated, requiring repeated tries to get the ring inside the rail to be at the right position so the URX would spin the right amount to be aligned to the upper receiver. (Ok, this probably doesn't make sense now; it makes sense when you see inside the rail). But at the end, it took me from 4PM to 6PM to install as well as some creativity and makeshift tools. If you want details of how I installed, PM me.

 

Tool:

1196072628999629514.jpg

 

Additional notes:

One thing I was really disappointed about was that I couldn't fit the wires through the URX. The G&P series have a weird plastic shield on the wire that won't fit past the URX. So I had to wire it through the "Mag catch" and I hope to use a redi-mag. Hint: WTB!

Also, It is somewhat heavy, but it is balanced out nicely by my PRS (thanks Duke). Center of Balance is at pistol grip.

 

Oh noes, now I need a $50 Redimag....

DSC_6681.jpg

 

Conclusion:

My biggest gripe is that it was near impossible to install. But I don't regret not buying the tool. $40 is not worth my 2 hours. And besides, it was very satisfying when it finally worked. However, $180 is a lot to spend on a rail kit, and so it's not a very good choice if all you want is a RIS system. $180 can buy you a lot of nice internal upgrades. But, it is beautiful and I can safely say now that my gun is probably the only one of its kind.

 

Installed:

DSC_6682.jpg

 

DSC_6677.jpg

 

Rating:

To the average person: 7/10

To me: 9.5/10

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Thanks!

 

Looks great. Good review and nice pics. I've always meant to do a G&P versus real deal comparo since G&P rails are popular and really great for the price, but, since there is already this thread, I'll just add a few things I've noticed about G&P rails versus KAC rails:

 

1.) The G&P finish is a much deeper dark. Though flat, it's still painted. KAC rails are anodized, so they look a bit more grayish. I wouldn't complain about the finish on either.

 

2.) The trademarks are correct, though, there are two minor points of complaint. The first is that the actual KAC trades are laser etched very thin, and in sort of off-white that isn't too noticeable from the grayish finish of the rail. The G&Ps are laser etched fairly thick, and in a good pure white, which stands out easily from the already dark finish of the rail. The second, even more minor complaint, is that all but the earliest URX IIs were made in Titusville, where KAC is now (and certainly all the URX IIIs, which is the G&P copy you have). The phone number on the LH side has also been replaced by their website URL.

 

I'll post some photos to illustrate my point later.

Edited by slu
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Whan, I am looking into buying one of these Purdy things to finish of my SR-15 IWS E3 build that was started so long ago. I tend to shy away from G&P rails as all my previous dealings with them have lead to non-milspec rails(ANNOYING!). Might you be able to illustrate to me how you installed it? Also, any barrel wobble?

 

@Slu: Have you ever seen any real Midlength URX IIIs for sale? I have only been able to find the URX IIs, which frankly I don;t want. If so, please tell me :P I Have been looking for more than one year to no avail.... I even emailed Op Parts,a nd he said he has no idea wen they'll come in....

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Okay, I'll answer the easy one first. There is absolutely no barrel wobble when installed on a g&p metal body, and I doubt you will get any wobble on others either. Then again, my G&P commando front end had no wobble either... Furthermore you'd never notice, as it is freefloat, and the URX has no wobble.

 

As for installation, there were two rings that went inside the URX threads. One was to attach to the threads of the reciever, the other was to stop it from spinning. The problem was that you had to spin those rings far just the right distance into the threads of the urx so that the ring of the URX that is meant to attach to the Reciever threads is the correct distance that it will tighten down with the URX aligned to the Reciever. If that made sense. Also, the $40 required tool is used only to tighten down those rings inside the urx, but you can create a similar tool out of a metal stick cut down to the right size. You'll know what I mean if you buy it.

 

Also, I recommend you take off the bottom part of the URX when installing, as I think it's impossible to install it without doing that. But taking off the bottom is easy, just 3 screws on each side of the URX, as it was meant to be able to do that.

 

All in all, this explanation probably doesn't make that much sense, but it will if you get the kit. It's a nice looking piece, but takes a while to install and figure out. However, a lot of the 2 hrs I spent were trying to figure out how to dissasemble the original barrel assembly (I know, stupid, but I haven't done it before) and to figure out where I want to wire my gun (which involved taking off the upper reciever, etc.). With guidance, you can probably install the URX in a half hour.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i just installed my URX without the tool, i just put on the outer barrel with the inner screw over it, screwed on the rail to line it up, took off the bottom and hand screwed in the other screw as much as i could, since i dont have the tool i cant fully tighten it so to hold it in place i just linked my madbull RASfix over the two rails and it's very secure

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@Slu: Have you ever seen any real Midlength URX IIIs for sale? I have only been able to find the URX IIs, which frankly I don;t want. If so, please tell me :P I Have been looking for more than one year to no avail.... I even emailed Op Parts,a nd he said he has no idea wen they'll come in....

 

I have no idea, actually. Last I heard, for the "general public" at least, you had to get one of their SR-15 IWS complete rifles to score a URX III. The URX I have is a URX II, so I didn't have too much trouble finding it. I would imagine it helps to know someone at KAC, but, I really don't know anyone.

 

C. Reed Knight III actually posts in some firearms enthusiast forums, maybe send him a PM asking?

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i just installed my URX without the tool, i just put on the outer barrel with the inner screw over it, screwed on the rail to line it up, took off the bottom and hand screwed in the other screw as much as i could, since i dont have the tool i cant fully tighten it so to hold it in place i just linked my madbull RASfix over the two rails and it's very secure

If you need to get the nut down further at some later date, you could try: (1) strap wrench, or (2) flat head screw driver pushed up against the recess holes of the nut and a hammer tapping on it to make it turn. Worth a try anyway.

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Hi all,

 

Installation instructions are on the G&P website :D

 

Mine didn't come with the large shims for the receiver nut and although the nut fit OK (on an ICS upper receiver) I couldn't get the spacing right no matter how much I fiddled with it - I ended up filing a small amount off the rear of the URX until the top rails lined up without a gap. The rail spacing is still about 1mm out (as it was before I made any adjustments) but it's solid as a rock :) (just tightened by hand - I haven't got the G&P tools either).

 

Cheers

 

H.

Edited by Hilts
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You can also make a el-cheapo tool for the URX with some PVC plumbing pipe. A piece of 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe is just the right size to fit over the barrel but inside the RIS, and lines up nicely with the diameter of the nuts. Line up a nut with the end of the pipe, then mark the position of the nut's four slots on the end of the pipe with a marker. Cut away the excess pipe around your marks. When you are done, you will have four "prongs" sticking out of the end of your pipe that will fit nicely into the nut's four slots. Drill a hole straight throught both sides of the pipe at the other end, big enough to pass a bar or long bolt through to act as a "T" handle. Look at the official URX tool, and you will see what I mean. Presto - really cheap URX spanner wrench, for a grand total of about $3.

 

Sorry about the old-style measurements for you guys across the pond. I'm not sure what metric sizes pipe comes in, but I'd bet you can find one that's equally as close to the nut size (around 2.5cm ID / 3.3cm OD).

 

Hope that helps,

 

-Tuthmose

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You can also make a el-cheapo tool for the URX with some PVC plumbing pipe. A piece of 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe is just the right size to fit over the barrel but inside the RIS, and lines up nicely with the diameter of the nuts. Line up a nut with the end of the pipe, then mark the position of the nut's four slots on the end of the pipe with a marker. Cut away the excess pipe around your marks. When you are done, you will have four "prongs" sticking out of the end of your pipe that will fit nicely into the nut's four slots. Drill a hole straight throught both sides of the pipe at the other end, big enough to pass a bar or long bolt through to act as a "T" handle. Look at the official URX tool, and you will see what I mean. Presto - really cheap URX spanner wrench, for a grand total of about $3.

 

Sorry about the old-style measurements for you guys across the pond. I'm not sure what metric sizes pipe comes in, but I'd bet you can find one that's equally as close to the nut size (around 2.5cm ID / 3.3cm OD).

 

Hope that helps,

 

-Tuthmose

 

I don't know how easily PVC deforms, but I bought the G&P tool, and after using it a few times, there is quite a bit of wear on the (steel) teeth, especially if you want to tighten the nut to anything near 50ft-lbs.

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I don't know how easily PVC deforms, but I bought the G&P tool, and after using it a few times, there is quite a bit of wear on the (steel) teeth, especially if you want to tighten the nut to anything near 50ft-lbs.

 

Oh, to be sure the makeshift PVC tool has a short lifespan. It worked quite well to install my G&P URX-based "Fighting Cat" front set, though. Considering I got 6 feet of pipe for $3, and I won't be taking my URX front on-and-off very often, I found that it beat the heck out of the $50 Redwolf wanted for the real deal. If. . . no, WHEN it breaks, I'll just spend ten minutes and make a new one from my remaining 4' of pipe :D .

Were I a shop or an armourer, the tool would be a logical buy. For something I may use a handful of times, not so much, IMO. Actually, hearing that the real tool wears that easily makes me even less inclinded to buy one . . .

 

-Tuthmose

Edited by Tuthmose
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Hi all,

 

Installation instructions are on the G&P website :D

 

Mine didn't come with the large shims for the receiver nut and although the nut fit OK (on an ICS upper receiver) I couldn't get the spacing right no matter how much I fiddled with it - I ended up filing a small amount off the rear of the URX until the top rails lined up without a gap. The rail spacing is still about 1mm out (as it was before I made any adjustments) but it's solid as a rock :) (just tightened by hand - I haven't got the G&P tools either).

 

Cheers

 

H.

 

GAH! Why didn't anyone tell me about that :angry:

 

I didn't do it that way (PVC pipe way would have been much better than what I did. I think I will reinstall using that.

 

I pretty much did a trial and error blunt force method where I tried to get the nuts inside the rail just right so that when I screwed it on the reciever, it would align itself. That's why it was so hard for me....

 

And yeah, I will post pictures of the wire blocking thing tomorrow.

 

 

Edited by Whan
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GAH! Why didn't anyone tell me about that :angry:

 

I didn't do it that way (PVC pipe way would have been much better than what I did. I think I will reinstall using that.

 

I pretty much did a trial and error blunt force method where I tried to get the nuts inside the rail just right so that when I screwed it on the reciever, it would align itself. That's why it was so hard for me....

 

And yeah, I will post pictures of the wire blocking thing tomorrow.

 

Great thanks abunch, if u end up using the PVC pipe method mind posting how it works, im kind of interested in this rail system after seeing the pics of your gun.

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GAH! Why didn't anyone tell me about that :angry:

 

I didn't do it that way (PVC pipe way would have been much better than what I did. I think I will reinstall using that.

 

I pretty much did a trial and error blunt force method where I tried to get the nuts inside the rail just right so that when I screwed it on the reciever, it would align itself. That's why it was so hard for me....

 

And yeah, I will post pictures of the wire blocking thing tomorrow.

 

Great thanks abunch, if u end up using the PVC pipe method mind posting how it works, im kind of interested in this rail system after seeing the pics of your gun.

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temp.jpg

 

Hope that makes sense. There is very little space between the URX where it attaches at reciever and the barrel (they are pretty much same width, but there are small slots in the barrel, but that big plastic thing (fuse inside?) doesn't fit through the grooves on the barrel. So I had to get a redimag. I could cut the wire and resolder it once i get it through the urx, but the wire isn't very long, and so if I had to swap inner barrel, it would be a big inconvience. So, Redi-mag for me.

 

Oh, and I won't be doing the PVC method. I took off my URX and readjusted it so now it perfectly aligns and is rock solid (probably 25 lb-ft) of torque on it. You just have to get the nuts inside the URX perfectly aligned to make it work.

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Dude, I am pretty sure there are connectors on there as is to disconnect the fuse(under the shrink wrap)and thus wire to front..... Why wouldn't PVC work?/Why didn't you use it?

 

Oh, PVC would have worked, except I don't have the spacers. Also, I was too lazy too, as it wasn't too much trouble to readjust the urx, as it was almost perfectly aligned already. Just had to readjust slightly.

 

As for the fuse, I could have done that, but the problem is that every time I wanted to open the gun up I would have to disassemble the fuse (G&P's don't break open like Echo1s). Little hard to explain, but didn't work out for me. Besides, redi-mag isn't so bad....

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