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Shriven

AEG Sniper Thread

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That ^

 

But I have often wanted to shorten my 20 inch ar to carbine length. Honestly there is such a thing as an SPR rifle in the real steel world. Compact guns that have been tuned for DMR work. I think 18 inches or carbine length is where these guns fall in. Besides the optimal barrel length for bolt guns is supposedly between 400is-500ish. So you would be gaining something if you went with a short barrel.

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After watching a lenghty video on the field i play at, with players using the exact gun(Sr-12) i have indeed decided on the sr-10. Reviews said it shot the same as the 12, actually in some cases a little better.

SniperElite7^ SPR length is what i am looking for now that you mention it, and believe it or not for all of you who are into RS stuff, there are 18 and even 16 inch bolt guns that reach out to 1000 yards no problem(.308, using 155 grain scenars in a higher pressure load).

 

This should be an ideal workhorse gun for me, where i can employ it as a Short-medium range sniper rifle,a DMR should i be stuck with a squad, an Assault rifle should the Sh!t hi the fan, all while maintaining a nice size whithou comprimising anything.

 

And for all you RS buff's out there again, an SPR can be used in cqb if necessary(quoting from Tactical arms tv show), and should the opereator(player in our case) run out of specialized ammo they can use the same ammo as their teammates due to compatibility(everyone and their brother has an Armalite style gun out there)

 

Scar

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Going along with what scar has been considering. I have been looking into a shorter barrel for my dmr. Looking over at asgi and I see g&g 6.04mm barrels and recalled debates that the looser the bore the better. True and if so is g&g the way to go?

 

I'm also considering just cutting my prommy down to what is considered the optimal barrel length which is what exactly? I know the ball park estimate. Also, cutting a barrel yourself and recrowning. How. Or can I pay someone to do it for me?

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Cutting a barrel is literally a hacksaw job. If you've got a good deburring tool, that's great. I used a dremel grinding attachment. Really doesn't need to be perfect.

 

As for optimal length, there's no certain answer to that one. Depends on the cylinder volume, and other factors as well I'm sure. It's easy enough to generalize across VSRs, as they're all the same cylinder size, and generally the same piston and other bits too. But when you're talking about an AEG, there's so many variables. The best bet, would be to get an old barrel you don't much care for, and chop it 15mm at a time, till it starts to decrease in accuracy. This however would require lots of disassembling and reassembling. I guess if you're not willing to put in the effort though, you'll never know.

 

I wouldn't use a G&G barrel. I think the looseness can help some situations, but the consistency of the bore is very important, and G&G don't make the smoothest of inner barrels. Laylax and PDI seem about the best for this. PDI make a 6.05, and Laylax a 6.03. Both of which always seem to get great reviews.

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^ This

 

If your running a stock length M4 barrel (400ish mm), regardless of bore size as it makes very little difference, and you plan to use heavier ammo I'd advise getting a 0 type cylinder (ie one with no holes in) as the extra air within the cylinder will help propel the extra weight (its worth remembering that manufacturers tend to optimize their cylinder volumes with .2s in mind not .28s and above, regardless of fps output), and .3s are about the maximum I'd use in an ordinary sized cylinder AEG, the likes of the larger cylinders in the PSG1 and some of the SR25s could support heavier ammo but would require a correspondingly higher fps output to make it worthwhile.

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No I wasn't intending to bore holes in my own cylinder. Thanks for clearing that up though Banjo. Since I am going down from an m16 length barrel. My gun already has a type 0 cylinder so it all works out. Just need to cut the barrel. M4 inner barrels come out to around 370mm.

 

Outer barrel is on the way.

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Update, cut and recrowned the barrel. Note that it was easy on the old stock brass barrel I had lying around. But prometheous steel wore down several grinding stones for the dremel. Sanding with 1000 grit and polished. Everything was solid. Lost around 10-20 fps. However it is now shooting at 463 +/- 3.5. Consistent. Went out and tested. Hitting a board that is a little bigger than a torso at 250 ft no problem(Used landscapers tape measure). Would be more accurate but wind here sucks. Same performance as a 509mm just more manueverable. I am pleased with the results of my conversion to carbine length. :)

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Hey guys.

 

Anyone know what I'll need to do to a TM PSG-1 to get it to about 425 FPS?

 

The Systema FTK's seem a bit OTT for the job, if I'm honest.

 

Ben.

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To be honest with you, I really, really dislike the Systema FTK for the PSG. The Bore-up set is really inconsistant and has bad compression from my experience. The piston is great except for the fact that it will only accept Systema springs, and the MOSFET is downright horrible, every one of those will fry. The only thing it is good for is the spring, guide, gears, piston and the bushings. If I were you, stick with a non bore-up set up or find a way to fix the issues with the parts included in the FTK. Either way, you need to get the gears. Systema is the only choice for that. As far as spring goes, the 200% from Systema should do just the job for you.

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Metal bushings, systema 200% spring, Area 1000 spring guide, lipol.

 

That's all my dad's PSG has been running on without a hitch (apart from removing the electrical safety and he still uses a custom 10.8v 2000mah NiMh due to that being all their was at the time.) for the last 5 years.

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The motor is fine, it's made for high torque applications, but if you desired to, you can replace it. Also if you're using a stock cylinder set, I recomend changing it. There is going to be a small problem with the Systema gearset/piston if you buy it seperatly. It does not come with the piston lug that you need to secure the piston head to it, dumb move on Systema's part. Unless you obtain one, nothing else will fit. So you'll need a new piston, the Systema gears will shred the metal tooth on the stock piston. So I recomend either G&P or Guarder for a good piston replacement. You'll also want a ported piston head, I personally recomend Prometheus for that. Go with a metal one, the PSG gearbox is reinforced so it can handle that extra stress. I also say metal because if you do a full plastic combo, it becomes too light and then gives you rebounds. You also want to change your air nozzle for one that has a nice tighter fit and seal. From me experience, Deepfire metal nozzles are the best. Don't forget metal bushings not bearings, go for machined types not sintered steel.

 

These are really just the minimum upgrades you need to do, to get the most out of it, you'll want to do a full overhaul.

 

Here's a list of parts that are available for the PSG so you can consider what to do with it as you go along. I'll list in top 3's.

 

Air nozzles- (G3 Types)

Deefire

KM Head

Promtheus

 

Tappet Plate-

King Arms

Guarder

 

Cylinder Head-

Guarder

Modify

 

Cylinder-

KM Head

Deepfire

Guarder

 

Piston Head-

Prometheus

Modify

Guarder

 

Piston-

Systema (If you can)

Guarder

G&P

 

Spring-

PDI

Systema

Guarder

 

Spring Guide-

Modify

Guarder

Systema

 

Gears-

Systema (Only ones for now.)

 

Thats as far as the really important parts. This is purely my suggestion as far as parts go and you can choose any of your own, but I own 97% of the parts ever made for the PSG, so I think I have a good idea of what does what. You will also want to do something about your sector cam somewhere down the line. It will eventually wear away your tappet plates and your only cut-off lever. I can list the mod if needed. The PSG is an expensive gun to run and to get shooting decently or good, there will be far more that you will do with the gun.

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Hi guys. Hopefully someone here is able to help me.

 

I am sorting out my mates G&P sr25, it has a really annoying problem of shooting two shots, then jamming up before shooting again.

The gearbox doesn't seem to be able to complete a cycle without the nozzle moving in a strange manner.

Its hard to describe, but it doesnt just go to its resting place where it should be for the next shot.

 

Its a stock g&p short gearbox ( not long ). The only upgrades appear to be the spring and a Systema Magnum motor. Its been running from a good LiPo battery, so there is tonnes of power being pumped out.

 

If I am being a bit vaugue, let me know and ill try elaborate a bit more and explain further.

I really need some help on this one. Its a beast of a rifle and I'm dying for a shot as much as its owner.

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I know your problem, I had the same exact thing with my PSG. Your battery is too powerful for your gun, it is making it cycle and over rev so fast that it will double fire and set it in a weird position. Either you can find a lower powered battery or get a special AB MOSFET with speed controls like mine. For that exact job I recomend AWS Airsoft Sentry Controller.

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Be warned, even if your MOSFET has active braking, there's no gaurantee that it will solve the problem. For example, my PSG runs a 11.1V 2200 Mah 20C LiPo battery, even with active braking, I had to set it to 70% power for it to function properly. However, chances are you have a lower torque set than I do, so perhaps it may be fine.

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It's definatly recomended but requires you to do permanent modifications. Basically to remove the tabs at the front of the body and have that block replace it. Do it right and it'll make it very steady, do it wrong, then you have a disfunctional PSG body. The mod is easy though, this is just something to consider if you really want to do it.

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Is it 100% necessary for the rifle? I might see what it's like without the chamber block, and then perhaps do the mod if I can't stand the apparently obvious wobble.

 

Ben.

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The G3/PSG-1 series really suffer from the front assembly wobbling, in the case of the PSG it's more of flexing that happens. If you rest the PSG on the bi-pod you get a good half inch of movement at the tip, even without, it still moves if you hold it normally. So unless you can find yourself a metal body, or you intend to hold it by the magwell, I would say it's a pretty neccessary addition to the PSG if you want to keep it accurate. Also did you change your inner barrel? For some reason Tokyo Marui decided to cut the top of the barrel where the hop-up sleeve sits, so there is a good amount of air being loss with it.

 

 

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I haven't got my hands on one yet - just planning the upgrade path for when I inevitably do.

 

RSM: What FPS does your dad get on that setup?

 

I'm probably going to do the easiest stuff first. Tightbore, new HOP rubber, possibly a new nub (will a H-HOP nub fit?), and then look at the more difficult stuff like the chamber block, spring & spring guide, bearings and gears.

 

Possibly, to buck the trend a little (and to ensure I can use it at all UK sites ;) ), I'm going to keep it at 350 FPS. I was thinking a TK Twist barrel might be ideal for this, and help with any accuracy issues from the body flex?

 

So, I'm looking for a parts list.

 

TK Twist tightbore barrel (what length? 590mm?)

HOP rubber - I thought under 350FPS the TM one should be pretty good? It needs to lift 0.25's or 0.28's a fair distance to be useful to me.

HOP Nub?

Spring?

PDI Chamber block (possibly)

 

Anything else I desperately need? Shouldn't need to change too much to get 350 FPS, as I thought these came out of the box about 300 - 310?

 

Of course, my ideal scenario is that installing the new barrel ups the FPS to 350 straight away - if this is the case, I can then just think about the chamber block, and leave everything else.

 

However, I've no experience with TK Twist barrels. Not sure what kind of boost you'd get, if any, to your FPS from installing one? So I'll probably have to change the spring as well, not sure what for though.

 

Ben.

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