hawaiianjuggernaut Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 @Zero I think that you should be fine running an 11.1, G&Ps internals are very strong. Maybe switch out the piston to SHS 14 tooth one for extended durability. As for 11.1 lipos, you should lose the firefox ones and get turnigy nanotechs. They are the best type out there and will last 250+ cycles with proper care. Link to post Share on other sites
Zero2Fear Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 @Zero I think that you should be fine running an 11.1, G&Ps internals are very strong. Maybe switch out the piston to SHS 14 tooth one for extended durability. As for 11.1 lipos, you should lose the firefox ones and get turnigy nanotechs. They are the best type out there and will last 250+ cycles with proper care. Thanks for the info. As there is a chance of changing to the PTW platform somewhere next year, I wanted to exchange them for 11.1v LiPo's. I have never heard of Turnigy Nanotech, but I will take a look and see what they are all about. As long as they fit a PTW stock tube, I'm more than fine with it. Thanks for your help Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__476__85__LiPo_LiFe_NiMH_Battery-Airsoft.html They have the whole list there If you want a good one for buffer tube: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17276__Turnigy_nano_tech_1200mah_3S_15_25C_Lipo_AIRSOFT_Pack.html That one should fit just fine. I dont have my guns wired to buffer tube, but when held up next to it it appears to fit with space to spare. Link to post Share on other sites
ariamark Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 so whats our opinions on what is the best fet out there then ? Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Homemade or ready made? Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 A little bump in the thread: I want a "PTW" like trigger for my Lonex M4. Programmable trigger isn´t a priority. Money is. I can always try to mock something up with a standard microswitch and superglue but I would like to consider other options as well. So what are the options out there at the moment: short trigger action with mosfet, cheap. B. Link to post Share on other sites
Zero2Fear Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 A little bump in the thread: I want a "PTW" like trigger for my Lonex M4. Programmable trigger isn´t a priority. Money is. I can always try to mock something up with a standard microswitch and superglue but I would like to consider other options as well. So what are the options out there at the moment: short trigger action with mosfet, cheap. B. Hey Bjorn, What is your budget? Most mosfets with trigger unit cost around € 100,- I have the AWS Raptor mosfet which is only a trigger unit with the mosfet in it. Works like charm and gives me "PTW like" performance. My team runs PTW's and I can keep up with them pretty easy. So depending on your budget, you can see what you can get. But remember, cheap isn't always the best choice Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Well that is the thing. Everywhere I look, I see the 100$ price tag that translates to about 100€ when ordered from e.g. the U.S. to an EU country. I am not sure I am ready to spend that kind of cash yet. I bet after ordering about 1 month later a chinese copy arrives for 20€ So - is there anything similar for about 50 eur? I do not need anything fancy. Just a nice trigger and a FET. Link to post Share on other sites
coolurjets Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 I've recently installed the infected one, got to say I'm very happy with it. Upped the rof by about 4 bps and reduced the semi time. Also the active breaking has sorted out the issue I had with my gun coughing out bbs on semi occasionally. Though its a shame the extended wires option only included one side as I am a sucker for neat wiring, my only beef really. Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 No need to buy a standard (or AB) mosfet. Can make one myself no probs. Was looking for a trigger unit with microswitch. I guess it won´t hurt to try and build one myself. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 ...Can make one myself no probs. Was looking for a trigger unit with microswitch... Like this you mean?... http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/185078-trigger-switch-replacement/?hl=%2Bpcb If you're fitting a MOSFET, there's no real advantage to using a micro-switch (over the standard trigger contacts). Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Exactly something like that. Advantage would be shorter and snappier trigger? More "PTW" like feel, no? The problem is that I do a lot of fast semi pulling when doing CQB and I feel that a shorter and "faster" trigger pull would benefit fine. Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I am planning on making about 10 mosfets for all my guns, My only problem is this: Some diagrams suggest using a 18v diode, and some say you dont need it. Planning on using: IRF3703 mosfet chips as per Maekiii's suggestion. 2.2k Resistors 100 ohm resistors I know how to do the wiring and such, I am just wondering if the diode is needed. I heard somewhere that the unconventional airsoft diagram is outdated, and you can simply wire it like this Is the 18v diode really needed? Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Not needed. Also, don't use that method of connecting to the Drain, solder it to the dedicated Drain leg for a proper electrical connection. Tom. p.s. your links don't work properly. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 It's still debated by some. Yes, under certain circumstances it can save the mosfet from dying, but most setups don't need it. It was an issue with some more "sensitive" MOSFETS and systema magnum motors that really needed it. I haven't seen a build in my shop lately that could have benefited from one.Regarding the connection to the drain... better than soldering to the drain leg, or connecting via a screw and bolt to the tab, you can just solder to the back of the mosfet, as that is the same connection as the drain leg. Adding extra conductive mass there works as a heatsink to some extent. I think in the diagram that was posted, that's why they used a screw and nut there (to have a physical connection and dissipate heat). Electrically, that can suck for a connection, so that's why I say solder to the back if you have a good soldering iron. If your soldering iron is marginal, then just solder to the leg where you don't need as much heat or time to make the connection. Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Havn't you got your Drain and Source connections mixed up? Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Havn't you got your Drain and Source connections mixed up? Tom. me or hawaiianjuggernaut? Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Ahhhh okay. That makes my life a lot easier. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 me or hawaiianjuggernaut? Hawaiianjuggernaut. Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Hawaiianjuggernaut. Tom. What do you mean? in the diagram? I just cut and pasted that one offline. -Hawaiian Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 The diagram is incorrect as the motor (-) should go to the Drain while the Power Source (-) should go to the Source. Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Yeah, whoever made that diagram got that bit backwards.That's why I was wondering who Tommygun was talking to. Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Ahhh I see: Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 It makes sense that the drain goes to the motor and the battery is the source... Woops. Link to post Share on other sites
Bluestripe93 Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Hey, I've just finished rebuilding my JG G36c with a G&P M120 motor, 7.4v 1800mAh 25-50c LiPo battery, M90 spring, 16 AWG wiring and XT-60 connectors and some other bits, So I was going to get a Mosfet (non AB), I'd rather make my own one than buying one and I've seen a few guides on forums but they are a few years old now so is there any newer/better Mosfets out now? And what would be the best one for me to use in this setup? Link to post Share on other sites
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