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gearbox.jpg

Hop Up:

thehop.jpg

Viewing the hop:

veiwingthehop.jpg

Top of Magazine:

topofmagazine.jpg

Mag next to a AK Mag:

2mags.jpg

Inside the gearbox:

gearboxparts.jpg

Picture outside in daylight:

mp44.jpg

 

Pro's so far:

 

it's a MP44

it's all metal and wood

The gearbox is a version 2 with modifications so most V2 parts will fit

Hop unit is 1 piece M4/m16 type with slight mod so a metal replacement can be fitted

 

Con's

Stock is loose but easily fixed with a bit of tape

 

Currently mines is double firing and the FPS is low at 290 but I will go into this a bit more later. Should be easily fixed but I'm too tired right now. :)

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Ok time for some more detail.

 

I might be slightly biased on this review as I have always wanted a MP44. The shoei model is way to expensive and hard to find so when I seen this come up for sale at gunnerairsoft i knew I had to get one.

 

The AEG is made from a cast alloy apart from the front handguard which is pressed metal. The casting are good quality and the pressed metal is also well done. Everything is painted black and the paint is as hard wearing as the finish on the AGM MP40. I don't think it will take long to get that "used look" and a scotch brite pad could speed up the process easily.

The RS finish is quite unique in the fact that some MP44's were Blued, some varnished over bare metal and some painted. Some MP44's even had all three types of finish especially later in the war.

The stock is cut from a solid piece of wood and is nicely formed. Again Mp44's had this type of stock as well as laminated ones. The finish is quite light but again this fits in with the RS ones which went from Blonde coloured to a deep red colour.

 

The stock also has a hole covered by a flap which was used for the oil bottle. The AGM model has this also but has no real use in airsoft unless you want to carry a pack of polo mints into battle. :)

 

If you want to fit a sling to the MP44 don't bother trying to find a MP44 sling as most MP44's used the Kar98 sling. A webbing sling was produced for the MP44 but was a lot rarer than the Kar98 sling. a decent Kar98 repro sling will set you back £20 and places like soldier of forture etc carry them.

 

The magazine is excellent. It's well made, holds 400 odd bb's and can be wound by the wheel on the bottom of the mag or by a allen key (supplied). It feeds BB's very well and is as tough as a TM AK47 mag. The mag is also painted black and matches the finish on the AGM MP44.

 

The cocking handle is functioning and you can rack it back and forth as much as you like without it breaking as it's pretty well made. It might be possible for the fake bolt to interfere with the hop up as the tolerances between the bottom of the bolt and the top of the hop are tight however 2 seconds with a file would solve this problem.

 

OK lets talk internals.

 

The gearbox is just a version 2 with a motor cage added to fix the motor to the gearbox. The motor is quite a high strength one. I'm unsure of exactly how strong but every screw, screw driver etc that is placed near it sticks to it like glue. XTY gears are supplied which have been proven to be strong and a selector chip is also present. The piston, piston head, selector plate, nozzle and cylinder are all well made but if needed could be swapped out with standard V2 parts. The spring guide is nothing special and i will be swapping mine with bearing one soon.

 

The spring fitted is quite short and can be seen in the photo below.

mp44spring.jpg

 

By fitting a larger spring I found that the AEG double feeds and I think that if I remove the selector chip this will stop and i will also see a rise in FPS. I will try this tonight and post the results.

 

I have heard that the FPS should be around 350 but mine was firing at 260ish so i fitted a J1 spring and it increased to 290 which is still about 40 FPS below what I expected. I tried the compression on the cylinder and it is excellent (enough to blow the cylinder head out the cylinder!).

This makes me think that either the nozzle needs swapping or the hop up needs looking at. i fitted a new hop rubber but it was still the same. I am going to fit a 1 piece metal hop and probably change the nozzle for a CA one and hopefully this will sort out the FPS.

The inner barrel is aroundabout 6.04 and is 450mm in length. A tight bore might be an advantage but I can't remember if a 450mm one exists. I might have to get a 456mm AK one and chop it down.

 

My feelings at the moment are that it is a good buy however be prepared to do a bit of work on it to get the best from it. For the WW2 guys it's good to have a thompson rival and hopefully midcaps will be produced soon.

 

i forgot to mention that the flash hider screws off like an AK and it's -14mm so if you really must you can fit a silencer however I may have to come and slap you about if you do. :D

*edit*

I knew I forgot something. the 2 pins that hold the stock on and hold the receiver to the front end are pretty loose. It could be possible to loose these quite easily.

They are held in place by friction using a rubber o ring on the end and they don't really grip too well. I tried a g36 pin but this is too thin so I will try a g3 one and see if that works. One other option is to increase the o ring size or pad up the pin with a bit of tape. I could even drill through the stock pin and fit a split pin and I will post up the results of the best method.

Edited by mightyjebus
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Hello, mightyjebus.

Thanks for the review.

I got one with cocking handle moving easily forward and backward, another one has handle returning to its position (with the help of spring I assume). I tried to disassemble the gun but failed. So here is my questions:

1. Do you know how does the handle operate and the easiest way to get to the mechanism?

2. How to remove the gear? I managed to remove the left cheek, and both left and right pistol grip parts. And can't remove the gearbox - it's blocked by hopup and barrel from one side and by the frame from the right side (see pic). Hopup and barrel could be moved to the left just a little bit - not enough to release the nozzle.

Maybe by removing gearbox I can get to cocking handle. Here is what I managed to do.

DSC01474.JPG

Appreciate if you could help.

Edited by Chill_ua
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push the hop and barrel forward and use a bit of force and pull the rear of the gearbox downwards. watch the wires as they may get trapped.

 

to access the cocking handle, remove the 3 pins that hold the front sight and gas block on. us a thin screwdriver and hammer to knock them out. Also you need to remove the grub screw which is hidden in the large bolt hole (the one that is in front of the hop up in your picture). once you have done all this the whole front end will come away from the shell. don't forget to remove the cocking handle as well.

 

Once you have stripped it once it soon becomes easy.

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Thanks to mightyjebus, I managed to disassemble the gas block and fixed the cocking lever. Tried to pull out the gearbox, like you told - did not succeed though, just managed to pull out it further, but the nozzle and the wires hold it, afraid to break nozzle - everything is so tight.. Well, may be will try later, as my main concern was cocking lever. Thank you again!

P.S. Mine chronoed 133-134 m/s with I'm not sure what kind of bbs and 136-139 m/s with bbs came in the package :)

Edited by Chill_ua
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OK quick update.

 

I replaced the hop up with a metal one and what do you know..everything is working sweet.

 

I put the original spring and selector chip back in and it fires brilliantly and with a FPS of 370.

 

Just need to lower it a bit and get some more mags :)

Edited by mightyjebus
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Do you (or anyone else who has one for that matter) have any problem getting the mag to click into the magwel? Sometimes mine's a bit finnicky. The mag only catches about half the time, and if it doesn't catch at first wiggling the mag back and forth a little bit will usually coerce it in. Anyone else have anything like this?

 

Great review btw. :)

Edited by Stangace
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