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Regardless of loosening the hex-screw you have to leave it fixed in place, otherwise it'll just unscrew itself. I really cannot approve of this.

 

Also, as far as I know, the detonator kits also have this and don't require any modification.

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RWA Nighthawk steel 1911 with machined rs Heinie tritium sights, stainless threaded insert (to match this two tone oddness), grey Magpul grip panels!  

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I'll rephrase this for you Kenxin, I should have wrote some BBUs in custom installations don't function smoothly if over-tightened,

sometimes the smallest loosening of the hex-screw is enough to correct this, trust me I know I've built at least 40 1911s,

I was not trying to say leave it loose so its going to fall off !

Can we have your approval now :rolleyes: 

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I'll rephrase this for you Kenxin, I should have wrote some BBUs in custom installations don't function smoothly if over-tightened,

sometimes the smallest loosening of the hex-screw is enough to correct this, trust me I know I've built at least 40 1911s,

I was not trying to say leave it loose so its going to fall off !

Can we have your approval now :rolleyes: 

You can have it, the new NOVA design cannot. Also, I think you misunderstood me, I was referring to the design, not to your comment.

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Just made a new kimber warrior with the new nova kit, kind of like there old kits better without the extractor thingy, dont like the fact that some of the BBU has to be cut of in order to fit. Plus the nova outer barrels are a pain to fit, so much so I used a shooters design outer barrel I found and it work like a (wet) dream. The old kits were perfect except for the rear sight (which were not kimber warrior style), But if you make a 1911 using the new Nova kits beware of the outer barrel it will jam and cause problems.

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The Nova outer barrel looks the same as the SD outer barrel (slightly dif markings) but for some strange reason I cant get the Nova barrel to work and the SD barrel fits and works perfectly. Any suggestions please?

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The Nova outer barrel looks the same as the SD outer barrel (slightly dif markings) but for some strange reason I cant get the Nova barrel to work and the SD barrel fits and works perfectly. Any suggestions please?

 

The Nova outer barrel is the same rubbish they've been supplying for years, I usually replace them as fast as possible with anything from the original ABS to Shooters Design whatever.....

When I made Nova kits regularly I kept a spare Nova outer barrel to use when racking the slide for the first few times, because if you breath on them they mark, if your fit is not perfect from the word go,

the Nova barrel will scratch away like cheap rubbish, I basically consider it a freebie until you get up and running.

Unfortunately with the trend now for fake firing pins, its going to be hacksaw & file time for a while, until and if they come up with a better idea.

That was one thing I never had to worry about with the Hurricane kits, the barrels were very good quality for the price and usually fitted perfect every time.

Icolater unless the slide is moving effortlessly the lugs May be inclined to jam with a Nova outer barrel, I've experienced this before, you might be better off using the ABS barrel until its running very smoothly.

I made a Series 70 Nova kit last week, it went relatively easy, but I did get a heads up about the BBU needing a Trim-Job in advance, so knew what to expect.

I will also be making a Kimber Warrior next-week :)

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So far NOVA are just re-releasing old models with the new firing pin and extractor design...let's see if they decide to do new stuff.

 

 

I'd be even happier if Hurricane brought out a few new all-included type kits, I'm really surprised they haven't branched out a bit more.

With the amount Nova charges for their parts, I can't see them bringing out too much too soon, and if so it will be under the Prime label ;)

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The Nova outer barrel is the same rubbish they've been supplying for years, I usually replace them as fast as possible with anything from the original ABS to Shooters Design whatever.....

When I made Nova kits regularly I kept a spare Nova outer barrel to use when racking the slide for the first few times, because if you breath on them they mark, if your fit is not perfect from the word go,

the Nova barrel will scratch away like cheap rubbish, I basically consider it a freebie until you get up and running.

Unfortunately with the trend now for fake firing pins, its going to be hacksaw & file time for a while, until and if they come up with a better idea.

That was one thing I never had to worry about with the Hurricane kits, the barrels were very good quality for the price and usually fitted perfect every time.

Icolater unless the slide is moving effortlessly the lugs May be inclined to jam with a Nova outer barrel, I've experienced this before, you might be better off using the ABS barrel until its running very smoothly.

I made a Series 70 Nova kit last week, it went relatively easy, but I did get a heads up about the BBU needing a Trim-Job in advance, so knew what to expect.

I will also be making a Kimber Warrior next-week :)

Thanks Squad 701 for the reply, the SD outer barrel fits and functions perfect so ill keep that in place, but I have another 2 kimber warriors to build in the next week and only have 1 SD barrel left, so I have to find away for the Nova barrel to function, on closer inspection I noticed that the only visible differance in construction between the two (besides the barrel markings) is that the nova barrel has a narrower inner section were as the SD barrel has an openish inner section allowing more freedom to the inner barrel. So I think the problem is the inside of the outer barrel and not the lugs (which dont show signs of jaming). Im going to try filing out the inside with a cilinder file and see if that makes a differance. :busted_blue:

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Thanks Squad 701 for the reply, the SD outer barrel fits and functions perfect so ill keep that in place, but I have another 2 kimber warriors to build in the next week and only have 1 SD barrel left, so I have to find away for the Nova barrel to function, on closer inspection I noticed that the only visible differance in construction between the two (besides the barrel markings) is that the nova barrel has a narrower inner section were as the SD barrel has an openish inner section allowing more freedom to the inner barrel. So I think the problem is the inside of the outer barrel and not the lugs (which dont show signs of jaming). Im going to try filing out the inside with a cilinder file and see if that makes a differance. :busted_blue:

That is VERY unlikely.  The lugs are responsable 99% of the time. If you release the slide slowly  and it stops about .5 or 1 mm short of battery, it's the lugs for sure.

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Iv made a load of custom 1911s in the last 4 years using the marui meu as a base, hurricane kits, guarder kits and nova kits. I had to do so fitting hear and there but never to the lugs, the only other time I had a problem with an outer barrel not fitting was with a guarder trp kit but I just used a marui stock barrel from a night warrior which was silver and It looked the part. How do I resolve this problem with out buying more Shooters Design outer barrels, sand down the lugs?

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Hey Icolater,
You can have the outer barrel that comes with my Nova kit next week, as I have a spare Shooters Design barrel waiting for it.
You can experiment with the lugs then if you like, I know the lugs on the Nova barrels are very sharp, you could nearly shave with them ;-)
Maybe try a bit of smoothing around the edges of the lugs, won't do any harm.
Here are a couple of mobile-phone shots of the Nova Series 70 kit along with PGC MEU for comparison,

I was going through my spare-parts box the other day and came across an original PDI Delta hammer, it had been sitting there for a very long time,

so I decided it was time to get it on the MEU.

Cheers.

 

MEU-Series701911sB_zps36baed73.jpg

 

MEU-Series701911sF_zps06635910.jpg

Edited by Squad 701
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Very very nice, that series 70 is super slick, the delta hammer and grips look amazing, defo one of the nicest 1911s on this forum, are the sides polished are is the finish on the gun shiney all over ?. Thanks squad 701 for your really kind offer, Ill PM you about it as I have a load of 1911 bits and bobs you might want.

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the KJW is OK if you ultimately dont want to do anything and really want a metal body. but TMs are just in a world of their own. crisp blowback, great performance with heavy BBs, never complaining about anything, tight tolerances and i can go on. now, thanks to bush and obama, the dollar just isnt what it used to be and an MEU from marui can cost about $230. but they are still worth it IMHO.

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So I figured this would be a good place to ask. I'm in the market for a 1911 meu.

My question is kjw or marui?

Never owned a marui gbb but loved my old kjw glock

 

TM or not TM that is the question!

 

The answer is TM.

 

Always TM!

 

More reliable, better built, good quality construction. Millions of upgrade parts if you really need to change them.

Mine has been 95% stock since I got it and has been through 30k rounds on green gas with only one fault. I upgraded the plastic slide and frame with the plastic slide and frame from someone elses TM 1911 when they went mental and put a metal slide and frame on theirs!

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To be honest if you have the temperature for it (you think 10 degrees celcius is cold etc) then a KJ should be fine rocking on Green when at the coldest.

 

However in the UK unless you live in the south of the south you will get days that go down to zero degrees and need either the plastic frame or reliable CO2.

 

This is one of the reasons I stick with plastic TMs. Plus it isn't broken so really why fix it, they work everytime I draw and pull the trigger.

 

'FireKnife'

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