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RWA Nighthawk steel 1911 with machined rs Heinie tritium sights, stainless threaded insert (to match this two tone oddness), grey Magpul grip panels!  

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oh god.. what am best gun/1911.

ok.. go and look at places like:

 

rsov.com

gunnerairsoft.com

to LOOK at things like the MEU.

http://www.fpsbanana.com/skins/screens/526...rends/38402.jpg

is that what you are after?

If you want something like that, you can get the MEU and then some standard GI grips as well.\

 

failing that Tercel make an apparently good one.

AND check the user reviews in these forums. :)

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oh god.. what am best gun/1911.

ok.. go and look at places like:

 

rsov.com

gunnerairsoft.com

to LOOK at things like the MEU.

http://www.fpsbanana.com/skins/screens/526...rends/38402.jpg

is that what you are after?

If you want something like that, you can get the MEU and then some standard GI grips as well.\

 

failing that Tercel make an apparently good one.

AND check the user reviews in these forums. :)

 

I try to stay away from places overseas. Shippings crazy. So any sellers US based are desired. I've decided to sway away from any MEU and just get a classic model. So far I'm looking at

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=1729

Comes with a free mag and free shipping. Apparently pretty decent quality.

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i got the 1911 from here a i did the work myself

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/pistols-gbb-smg...gbb-pistol.html

 

Great job!

 

I think what many folks are interested in specifically, and have asked you, is how you did the chrome finish...

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

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Great job!

 

I think what many folks are interested in specifically, and have asked you, is how you did the chrome finish...

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

Yeah how did ya ?? and does Tercels have engraved trades on slide?

Edited by k.a
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Polishing a 1911 isnt hard, thats if he polished it.

 

To polish a 1911, sand the paint off, get busy with the polish, or, the best way, use desk/pedestal mounted machine polisher.

 

To chrome a 1911, send it to an electroplaters, they remove the paint, polish the living bejeebus out of it (chromes very thin, any imperfections show) then either brass dip then chromium plate it or they may just chromium plate if off the bat.

 

Ok, its not a 1911 but heres a glock I polished w/ machine polisher:

 

Polished2.jpg

Edited by Stealth1911.
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How often do you have to re-polish that Stealth?

 

Once in a blue moon! use motorbike metal polish and it protects it, I used it for 3 skirmishes and it was just as shiny, then sold it.

 

And one more question, If I had used... say 600 sandpaper, can I still polish it and make it look that good like your glock?

 

yes, but you will then want to flat it all down with 1200/1500, then polish it.

 

I did my glock slide in college in half an hour, that was from painted to shine, and I didnt have any decent sand paper there (one grade of emery cloth, lovely) if you use nitromors you can get the paint off hten polish it straight up, so consider that!

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not a hope with 600. that would only be a starting paper and you'll gradually work up to 2000 or higher. then buff with a metal polish. :)

 

You'd be suprised what a machine polisher can save :P it wont be perfect but you'll get a good shine with it, but will take alot longer than if you got it to 1500 or 2000 grit

 

P.s. metal polish is ######, use a metal compound, will cut thru it far quicker, for final polishing use a metal polish, motorbike polishes are good generally

Edited by Stealth1911.
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I'd use Blue Magic Metal Polish....it leaves it shiny for longer....

 

I usually starts from ~320 if the slide has a layer of paint on it, or if it comes "polished" or brushed, I start from something like 600. wet sand, then 800, 1000, then 2000....then use the Blue Magic to finish the job...

 

If you want you can get brushed finish if you sand straight in one direction with something like a 600...

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There are usually 2 types of sandpaper you can get, both are available in many grades. The dry sand paper which is usually available in coarse grades(60-400 ish), and in US they are usually yellow or tan in color. And wet sandpaper, usually available up to much finer grades. These are usually black in color. The dry sandpaper are used primarily in wood working, with much softer material to remove. They take lots of material off and the final finish doesn't matter as much. The wet stuff is usually automotive use, you use it to sand and prep painting surface or refinishing paint. Or sometimes refurnishing lacquered wood. You use these with water and wet surface, which helps to lubricate paper and lasts slightly longer than the dry ones which clots up quickly and loses abrasion...

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