HOPPERSAN Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 (edited) EVIKE HAS THE 2ROY POM:: Any one have a link to the bolt stop mod it was something about clipping coils off the bolt catch spring and adding a buffer to the catch Edited June 17, 2009 by HOPPERSAN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 Well according to 3vi1-d4n; Â "Its actually very easy. The lever that the magazine follower pushes is just too wide to push through the hole beside the Magazine lip. I first removed the magazine top, identified the problem area dremelled it a little on the left side of the area of the lever that fitted through the hole. Â Else you can just bore the side hole out on the magazine lip. Thats the other solution." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOPPERSAN Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 THAT IS NOT THE MOD I WAS TALKING ABOUT BUT THAT WILL HELP THANKS .. ANY ONE ELSE? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 (edited) Thats the mag mod, but not the bolt catch mod. Â My bolt catch mod is simple also, and it creates a spring loaded bolt catch rather than an indent locked bolt catch. Â It involves a little eproxy putty and a 2mm dremel bore/drill bit. Basically I removed the spring loaded indent that locks the bolt catch, and I took the bolt catch off the firing pin assembly. Â Underneath the area where the bolt catch sits, is enough space to put a small amount of eproxy putty, I create a channel small enough to fit the spring from the indent into it, and wait for the eproxy putty to set. Then I clipped 2 coils off the spring, and place it into the eproxy channel I created. Â Under the bolt catch where it pivots on the firing pin assembly, I drilled a small hole with the bore bit, 1mm deep, so the newly positioned spring can sit there without slipping off the bolt catch. Â Reassemble and you should have a spring loaded bolt catch. Edited June 17, 2009 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOPPERSAN Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 Nice thats more what i was looking for thanks . Now before I do all the drilling I want to wait and see if anyone else is reporting the same problem with the bolt not traveling back far enough to catch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 About 18x124mm externally. Â cheers for that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kalmar Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 Just got the AGM 2 hours ago and it's already laying around in parts I was able to put a mag through and I've been very satisfied so far. There are some interesting little quirks but nothing I don't already know how to fix and certainly nothing to detract from the overall quality of this rifle.  The first little oddity is a liking to the same issue on G&P WOC guns - that is to say the firing pin doesn't retract all the way inside the firing block unless the hammer is cocked. This is simply because the hammer spring is of extra strength and continuously pushes the hammer out farther than it needs to go. I noticed this when trying to insert the mag - because you can't. There are two solutions: replace the hammer spring, or just rack the charging handle before loading a fresh mag. Problem solved  Next when field stripping I found the same problem mentioned previously regarding the lock pins. In short the rear divot is too narrow to keep the pin tight and erect, instead it just flops wherever like a limp.. well you get the picture.  Finally, I've got to say that the receiver IS A BRICK. Seriously, I don't know what metal it is constructed of but it is hefty. Definitely more so than the G&P metal body and almost as solid as my Prime MBK. I took some weights of various parts to show the differences.  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 The firing pin won't retract in any of the guns, even in GBBs or the WE GBBR.  When the hammer is released and the mag is out, the firing pin sits in a forward position. However most GBBs and GBBRs also allow the firing pin to be pushed upwards by the new mag if the firing pin is sitting forward.  In the case of the AGM and the WOC, looks like the firing pin just moves foward and backwards, and doesn't allow it to be pushed up, hence you have this problem with the mag not being able to be inserted into the gun when hammer is down/uncocked. Unless someone redesigns the hammer mechanism, it isn't possible.    The first little oddity is a liking to the same issue on G&P WOC guns - that is to say the firing pin doesn't retract all the way inside the firing block unless the hammer is cocked. This is simply because the hammer spring is of extra strength and continuously pushes the hammer out farther than it needs to go. I noticed this when trying to insert the mag - because you can't. There are two solutions: replace the hammer spring, or just rack the charging handle before loading a fresh mag. Problem solved  Next when field stripping I found the same problem mentioned previously regarding the lock pins. In short the rear divot is too narrow to keep the pin tight and erect, instead it just flops wherever like a limp.. well you get the picture.  I also fitted a WE M4 front body pin to the AGM, which doesn't rotate, the rifle is a lot tighter now than it was before.  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stickyittoyou Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 is the ra tech complete bolt required as an upgrade since the stock bolt is already metal? anybody have the 2roy pom cylinder? anyone know where to get one?  i want to grab this to replace the the stock cylinder with this then drop a npas into that  does anyone think this is a good idea?  For me... yes. I know that the stock metal bolt isn't hardened enough. I want something that is steel and won't become deformed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sin415 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 (edited) okay so i want to be able to run this on propane/green gas, but most likely for plinking  im planning on grabbing a 2roy cylinder or a pro arms one, ra tech npas, g&p bolt stop [is this necessary?], acm metal hopup with g&p rubber, ghk or bomber mags.  would this be good enough to run green reliably? Edited June 18, 2009 by sin415 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shinhk Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 The firing pin won't retract in any of the guns, even in GBBs or the WE GBBR. The WA does. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kalmar Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 (edited) The WA does. Â Indeed it does. Weaker spring, thus fully retractable. Â Against forum rules to discuss such matters im afraid... Â Understood, disregard please. Edited June 18, 2009 by Kalmar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 But how? The hammer would have to be very weak if the valve can push the firing pin AND the hammer back? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kalmar Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 But how? The hammer would have to be very weak if the valve can push the firing pin AND the hammer back? Â Not really, the hammer spring is such that it rests in a relaxed position instead of being held forward like the G&P and AGM. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 I just realized on the bolt carrier there isn't any visible way to remove the bolt. The two pins only going in one way and I'm not sure how to remove them. I can't read Japanese for the life of me so how does one disassemble this to accommodate a new replacement? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morb Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 can you use the PGC hop-up with the standard barrel that comes with the AGM? Or does it have to be an AEG barrel? I want to replace the hop up immediately when i receive my gun but not planning on switching the barrel just yet. Â Any other suggestions for hop up ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
falconfour4 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 There is a bit of body wobble in my 062 AGM M4, has anyone got any nice easy ways to fix it or at least reduce it ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 Real M4's have a bit of body wobble too, apparently. Â That's a good question about the PGC hop up. Do I have to use AEG inner barrels, and can't use the stock barrel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 (edited) There is a bit of body wobble in my 062 AGM M4, has anyone got any nice easy ways to fix it or at least reduce it ? Statement from Armalite regarding receiver wobble ('real steel' but interesting nonetheless) Â O-ring fix (scroll down the page a bit) Edited June 18, 2009 by chris u'5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KWP Posted June 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 There is a bit of body wobble in my 062 AGM M4, has anyone got any nice easy ways to fix it or at least reduce it ? Don't seem to be a common problem, mine has very tight fit of upper and lower. But I remember some G&P WOCs had this problem and someone solved it by adding an o-ring to the front receiver pin - hope that helps. Â That's how mine looks, very tight, no wobble at all, same with all other pins and the fire selector switch: Â Photo 1/2: Â Photo 2/2: (Grip pod wasn't included) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Haba Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 kwp can you tell me if the ras is a replica of the KAC carbine ras and tightens via a clamp on the delta ring? i'm interested especially in the tightening system, since for example the dboys _ris_ replica sucks a**(the tightening screw is loacted on the front sight side). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kalmar Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 If nothing else, I've got to say I'm glad I paid $124+shipping for that little plastic speed loader attachment. Seriously, thank God for that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morb Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 (edited) Hey KWP, noticed that you're selling your AGM.... would've bought it if i hadn't ordered it from EBB. Any particular reason why you're selling it if i may ask? Edited June 18, 2009 by morb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crimson Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 Mine arrived today  Didn’t get stopped by customs and it got here in 2 days (when EB decided to send the thing)  The Daniel Defence RAS was upside down, the ras unit was loose and poorly installed, the rest of the gun has no problems. I managed to tighten the Daniel Defence RAS its still lop sided, as there is no gas block or gas rod to stabilise it  Mine is firing at 470 FPS consistently  Mag is leaking nothing major but small hisses  Bolt Stop functions works occasionally maybe 5 out of 10 shots empty.  Absolute *fruitcage* Joy to fire! The recoil is not that of a 5.56 but not weaker than a .22 i would say it was slightly stronger than a .22 when using green Gas  Problem: since the ras is in the way its a *badgeress* to adjust the hop unit Very impressed, ile throw up a small video review by the end of the week  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 If nothing else, I've got to say I'm glad I paid $124+shipping for that little plastic speed loader attachment. Seriously, thank God for that. Â Sarcasm? Â In regards to my earlier post about taking the bolt carrier group part... does anyone have a manual translated or a WA manual in English? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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