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which grease to use on the bolt? I've cleaned up the bolt but now needed to regrease it so i used some gear grease..

Is this fine or should i use cylinder grease or something else?

 

As thin a grease as you can get really, I originally used LM grease on it and it was fine. Ive done some mods since though, I completely removed all the paint from the bolt and sanded/polished it to a chrome finish. same with the inside of the upper receiver. this, combined with grease/oil will have the gun running like clockwork. Mine is soo snappy after doing this. its a complete joy to fire. :)

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Just get the GHK mags, no fuss about it working as they fit nicely and fire great. Ordering an AGM from HK plus shipping is almost the cost for a GHK.

 

I was planning on getting these, but their was a few posts that the GHK do not fit!, So I went with the AGM lightweights, However I must point out that the cost of 2 GHK mags del was the same as 6 AGM MKII lightweight 50 rounds mags (however having used the WE M4 mags on Sunday, the AGM MkII lightweight will be anything but lightweight at 700g

Edited by jonny2400
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upcoming weekend i have a 2day skirm.

First time i'm going to use it in the field, Let's hope this gun holds up :)

 

Going to be fun to head in against a majority of ppl who only use frikkin' high caps. :s

Bah... still don't understand how ppl can play with this.

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Take care to make sure everything is tight.

If you don't bother to fix stuff like scopes and torches to the gun you might want to do that now.

 

I've built up my gun and just "nipped-up" the barrel nut and stock tube and, after a couple of hundred shots I realise that everything is coming loose again.

 

The recoil really does shake things up.

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provided noones made an *albartroth* of the tolerances then the EBB chamber should be fine

 

things not to bother buying

 

Ra-tech 'winter' spring - nothing wrong with it but its pretty much identical gauge, strength and length to the spring thats in the AGM

steel buffer tube ring - the one on the gun is already steel

hammer lock - its already presed metal anyways and seems like it might be specific to the AGM

enhanced hammer spring the AGM hammer spring is already strongest of the lot

 

things to hold off buying till you actually need them (unless you just want to gut it out and start with steel parts from day one)

trigger, trigger sear, selector - not the most high wearing of parts, you will pick up wear eventually but wouldnt expect it any time soon

 

hammer - expect some issues with the contact edges eventually (hammer lock area and sear face for trigger to lock against) but given price of replacement hammers I'd use it till it wears first.

 

If you want to lightly polish the leading edge of the hammer where the bolt carrier rides over it fair enough but dont go polishing the whole thing - the sear face near the bottom needs to keep its profile, and the section that contacts with the auto sear cant afford any material off of it - as its already at the 'hair trigger' level of engagement when in use.

 

buffer stop post - use till it breaks, but I'd buy one if you've got an order in for other parts as its likely to cost buttons to add to an order.

 

mag catch - use till it wears or breaks then replace the catch with a steel Ino one

best combo is the steel ino mag catch and the AGM release button - the ino button is slighty smaller and when fitted in the AGM lower can tilt slightly when pressed, making it harder to release the catch than it would be using the AGM button. You can buy the two parts of the ino catch seperately (at least if you go thru RA-tech) so save 10 bucks and just buy the catch part and dont bother with the button.

 

worth getting rid of at earliest opportunity

 

the bolt catch - its ######. Personally I'd go with the RA-tech one, on basis its a known fit with minimal fettling to the firing block required and works just fine

 

the standard blowback assembly ditch for an adjustable npas - no real point screwing around with duster hoping for the best as far as feild limits go when you can dial in your own FPS with a variable NPAS.

 

you can:

 

cheapest - keep the standard nozzle assembly part and just fit the variable NPAS bolt and flute valve into that

 

middle ground fit an entire variable npas bolt inside the stock bolt carrier (be sure and use the side plate that comes with complete variable npas assembly or the cnc'd aluminium equiv - the stock white sideplate supplied with the AGM has a wider slot cut for its standard nozzle assembly)

 

spendy - fit an entire RA-tech steel bolt carrier with complete npas assembly inside it - 260 bucks

Edited by snorkelman
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062 Arrived today, First impressions:

 

1) Doesn't lock back at the end of a mag

2) No Propane leak

3) No noticeable swelling

4) Front end wobble easy to fix

5) noticeable cooldown at 70 degrees F

6) mag doesn't load bbs smoothly with supplied speedloader/attachment

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Your #1 is most likely due to the magazine. The spring is not strong enough to push against the bolt stop to engage it.

 

I just dumped most of my spending money on magazines, does anyone know what the FPS is on the stock bolt with propane and duster? At the site I play the limit is 400fps with .25 BBs, need to decide if I should get some duster gas in the short term before I get the NPAS kit.

 

Guess I should also add that it's going to be used in around 80 degrees F.

Edited by Badly Browned
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provided noones made an *albartroth* of the tolerances then the EBB chamber should be fine

 

Ha! Famous last words! :rolleyes:

 

The alloy hop sold by EBB is very nicely made but, after building everything into it, it doesn't actually work.

 

For some reason, twiddling the adjuster doesn't make the arm move.

I then tried removing the spring and pushing down on the arm with a jewellers screwdriver.

That did make the hop-up intrude very slightly into the bore but I was worried that I was using enough force to snap the arm so I stopped.

 

All in all, I think the problem is that it's all just a bit snug.

The OEM hop has nothing holding the two halves together so it all kinda hangs loose inside the end of the gun.

The new hop is clamped together with a couple of hex screws and I suspect they're just a tiny bit too tight.

 

Further investigation is required.

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On the ra-tech one that (I think) it copies, the hex screws just centre the barrel inside the hop unit, only the phillips screw actually pulls the two parts (loosely) together. Id strip it back down and fit the actuator arm inside one half of it - might just be the pivot points on it are a little too fat for the holes they're supposed to fit in

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Your #1 is most likely due to the magazine. The spring is not strong enough to push against the bolt stop to engage it.

 

thanks,

 

but i was just providing a quick overview of the common issues that we cant quite get ironed out: what does or doesn't occur in a stock 061 and stock 062.

 

of course it varies, but i was just adding another set of votes for each issue.

Edited by stew_b_10
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On the ra-tech one that (I think) it copies, the hex screws just centre the barrel inside the hop unit, only the phillips screw actually pulls the two parts (loosely) together. Id strip it back down and fit the actuator arm inside one half of it - might just be the pivot points on it are a little too fat for the holes they're supposed to fit in

More to it than that.

 

There is a bit of swarf on the hop arm and there were burrs on the metal of the hop up.

I cleaned off the swarf and used a couple of drills to clean up the holes by hand.

 

With the arm in by itself it's not exactly loose but it moves well enough.

 

The problem seems to be that with the barrel and bucking fitted the arm can't push the bucking down properly.

It's almost as if the shape of the housing is holding the bucking rigidly so it can't press downwards.

 

I'll have another look in the morning.

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Well, I just got my 061 from ebairsoft. After 20 minutes of "gun love" --as my wife put it-- I am fairly impressed. The overall gun isn't bad at all, and I'm happy with the purchase.

 

HOLY SCHNIKEES is the magazine HEAVY! Yeah, we know it's "700g," but until you pull the thing out of the box yourself, you don't realize that one empty magazine ways seriously almost as much as the freakin' gun! Sheesh, and I thought the PTW's "RS weight simulating" mags were heavy. With out a lighter solution, I really don't see any kind of skirmish capable loadout in our humidity. I typically roll with 8-12 mids for an all day gig, I'd have a stroke lugging around 8 of those babies all day.

 

 

EDIT: Oh, and hey, has anybody found a Translated gun Manual? Just curious. The pictures are entertaining and fairly descriptive, but English would be handy.

Edited by Downslide
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775 grammes for the original one, versus 475 grammes for the GHK (which is pretty much within half an ounce or so overt hat of a fully loaed AR mag)

 

Not got any issues with GHK mag insertion - using the ino mag catch the mag slides and clicks into place and will drop out under its own weight soon as mag release is pressed.

 

Only modification over standard lower is that mine was stripped of paint and then dipped in bath of caustic soda for long enough to remove all trace of the fireselect markings.

 

Not suggesting anyone does the same lol but does suggest any tightness in the mag well area only amounts to a few thousandths of an inch at most (as thats all the caustic soda bath will have stripped from mine) so a quick run over inside of the magwell with a file or some heavy grit wet n dry should be enough to alow decent GHK mag fitment.

 

 

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The problem seems to be that with the barrel and bucking fitted the arm can't push the bucking down properly.

It's almost as if the shape of the housing is holding the bucking rigidly so it can't press downwards.

 

I'm using Ra-tech red bucking along with the RA-tech hop unit, stock AGM barrel and AGM arm - one thing that does seem slightly different is the outside of the Ra-tech bucking has slightly different profile to the AGM one, not sure if its enough to affect operation of the arm though, I can try assembling it with the AGM bucking to see if that makes any difference

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Probably nobody is interested, but just FYI: The easy-to-break AGM bolt catch is available now as a spare part for about US$10 plus shipping. But I guess if yours breaks it would be better to go for a solid steel solution from another brand. :D

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Probably nobody is interested, but just FYI: The easy-to-break AGM bolt catch is available now as a spare part for about US$10 plus shipping. But I guess if yours breaks it would be better to go for a solid steel solution from another brand. :D

 

Where is it available ?

 

Thx Lance

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Probably nobody is interested, but just FYI: The easy-to-break AGM bolt catch is available now as a spare part for about US$10 plus shipping. But I guess if yours breaks it would be better to go for a solid steel solution from another brand. :D

 

aye at 15 bucks for the Ra-tech steel one there isnt much point

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this maybe interesting for us AGM M4 GBB-Owners:

 

http://www.filairsoft.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78234

 

Lance

Not really.

 

It's a login page telling me I ned to register on some other forum. :rolleyes:

 

*EDIT*

Working now.

 

Surprised to see that's what the gun looks like after a thousand rounds through it.

Mine looked like that by the time I'd emptied the first mag and it hasn't changed since.

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