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MDK, do you see any issues with adding these shims? additional wear, durability of the the floating valve with added shims, etc? how many rounds have you put through it since you first installed them?

 

No, no issues yet; only horrible consistency, and I'm pretty sure that's not caused by adding the shims. Though, I've no clue what IS causing it!

 

I've not put many rounds through the gun with the shims there, as I'm trying to find what the damned gun is shooting at; my chrono is being awkward, as is the gun with the aforementioned consistency issues. I doubt that it'll add any additional wear; all that it does is make the floating valve sit further forward than normal; that's it.

 

As I said in my guide; this is, as far as I can tell, exactly what the NPAS system does; it changes where the floating valve sits. Though, the NPAS is adjustable on the fly; this isn't :P

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Edit: Took a look at Stealth's thread about the bolt catch in general disc, and he mentioned something about the bolt catch sticking where the pin is not involved because of the casting process. If that was what you meant by the bolt moving freely then your right, you do not want that.

Uhuh,

 

Personally, I reckon the whole dsign of the bolt catch is screwy.

 

Try it for yourself.

Seperate the upper and lower receiver then shove your finger up the mag-well and try pushing on the bolt catch.

Sometimes the catch will hinge up sideways, as it should. Other times it'll try to lean backwards which causes it to wedge in the slot in the receiver and jam.

 

You can also see the problem if you just try to wiggle the bolt catch around.

The catch doesn't just move up and down as it should. It'll move side to side and forward/backwards as well.

 

Any movement that ISN'T in the intended direction will cause the catch to bind up and jam.

This problem is magnified in the AGM gun because the pin hole through the bolt catch is larger than it needs to be, resulting in excess movement.

 

The whole striker block and mag catch needs re-engineering IMO.

I wouldn't be surprised if, given a few months, we see a drop-in replacement become available from somebody like Prime or G&P.

Course, the Prime one will probably be milled from unicorn horn and cost roughly the same as the GDP of a small african nation.

 

*EDIT*

Also, excellent work MDK.

Nice to see somebody doing some proper work on these things.

Unfortunate that your camera is really, really awful.

 

I assume no marbles were required for that modification?

;)

 

*EDIT2*

The levers inside the mag don't really affect the way the bolt catch operates IMO.

As long as they don't have any moulding residue on them (mine didn't) they should be fine.

You can check this simply by stuffing the empty mag into the lower reciever (while it's seperated from the upper) and simply prodding at the bolt catch.

You will find that the magazine pushes the bolt catch through the full range of movement quite easily.

It's not like the lever is barely managing to move the bolt catch far enough.

The only thing that warrants replacing (or modifying) in the mag is the main spring IMO.

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where ever you order from, just make sure they glue on a plastic orange tip. I had PX paint mine orange, because i have plenty of flashhiders around. Don't mess with customs if you can avoid it. you don't have to worry about trades on this gun, the only trades are inside the KAC M4 RAS on the 062.

 

 

edit: has anyone heard anymore about the bomber mags? why GHK over them?

Edited by stew_b_10
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Also, excellent work MDK.

Nice to see somebody doing some proper work on these things.

Unfortunate that your camera is really, really awful.

 

I assume no marbles were required for that modification?

;)

 

<_< There was nowhere for me to put the marbles this time... :D

 

My camera is indeed terrible; I took the pics with my phone, which is... not great. I've got better pics for my review, but I couldn't be arsed to go get the decent camera when I took the pics of the nozzle.

 

I just need to fine-tune this now, and wait for my propane adapter to appear; three cans of propane sitting here, and no adapter to use with them :(

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AGM MKII Lightweight Mags/

 

Ok Guys my AGM Lightweight mags are here.

 

OK they may one be 20% lighter but they really feel much lighter, like 30 - 40% lighter.

 

The build quaility is very simlar, As the standard version.

 

However I have noticed a number of differences,

 

1st the MKI mag has 4 pins to hold on the forward side of the Mag ie that the Spring for the BB goes. The MKII has only pin one at the top.

 

The MkI at the rear side ( Ie where the fill valve is) , has Two pins, one smaller at the bottom and larger one at the top. The MKII has only one small pin at the top.

 

The valve that the Gas goes in. MKI has a large brass valve with nozzle being set back 3/4 mm. The MKII has a sligtly smaller Brass Valve, the nozzel is level with the valve.

 

Top, The black one peice with the screws are a matt finish on the MK1, The MKII is shinny, again with two screws. The base is a little different also The MKI has a little cut out at the front that the front side fits in. The MKII does not have this.

 

In Summary, all four sides including top and bottom have been made from new molds. I have not opened the MKII ( Hope not to have too! lol)

 

The Bolt Stops works fine on the MKII semi.

 

All my new MKII leaked gas to a higher level than the MKI. I have used abbey Maintaince gas on first fill. However they have started to settle down with a few fills. Each one seems to leak from different areas, One on the fill Valve, One from the base and one from the top.

 

They are all a very very tight fit. Much Much tigher than the MKI, I will need to file down the mag, It takes Both hands to pull them out, They also need a few hits to seat.

 

Fit

 

On the MKI AGM mag, it shows wear on the rear, Both sides none on the outset part. ie where the valve (ie where hammer hits) and wear on the side ( Front when part with BB is on right hand side) None on front side of mag.

 

MKII has serious wear on rear, left hand side only, on outset part again towards the left hand side. None on either side on on front Serious wear on the left hand side, none on the right.

 

Preformance

 

They appear to cause the bolt lock to work better, The newer valve, seems harder to fill.

 

The MKII seems to have a little less cool down, the full charge is allowing 75bb on a full charge. I never tried this on the MK1

 

I had to spend a few mins, working on these to get them working, the other cases where bend from del (or maybe from factory) However this was quickly fitted with a screw driver.

 

 

Hope you find this useful guys

 

JE

Edited by jonny2400
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I'm deciding on whether to order it from Gunner or EBB.

 

Who has faster shipping to the East Coast? EBB shipping or Gunner's HK Post Airmail?

 

Both Airmails will be the same. However Gunner will send it out to the mail faster than EBB, that's a given. EBB will take longer to proccess and ship out.

 

Also, my Inokatsu AR-15 prototype lower reciever parts just came in! I'll install them later.

 

I got these: http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=26432

 

-Luis

 

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@ messenjah

 

Does the PTS MOE stock fit?

Can you take a photo including the stock?

 

Btw. it looks nice, but you can consider a new web camera :D

 

 

 

Yeah it fits very nicely, theres absolutely no play in the stock on the standard AGM stock tube. it fits better than pretty much any other rifle ive had the MOE stock on.

 

3646860686_c74d56dd89_b.jpg

 

3650869355_4434816220_b.jpg

 

3646873276_f537ec97ab_b.jpg

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AGM MKII Lightweight Mags/

 

Ok Guys my AGM Lightweight mags are here.

 

OK they may one be 20% lighter but they really feel much lighter, like 30 - 40% lighter.

 

The build quaility is very simlar, As the standard version.

 

However I have noticed a number of differences,

 

1st the MKI mag has 4 pins to hold on the forward side of the Mag ie that the Spring for the BB goes. The MKII has only pin one at the top.

 

The MkI at the rear side ( Ie where the fill valve is) , has Two pins, one smaller at the bottom and larger one at the top. The MKII has only one small pin at the top.

 

The valve that the Gas goes in. MKI has a large brass valve with nozzle being set back 3/4 mm. The MKII has a sligtly smaller Brass Valve, the nozzel is level with the valve.

 

Top, The black one peice with the screws are a matt finish on the MK1, The MKII is shinny, again with two screws. The base is a little different also The MKI has a little cut out at the front that the front side fits in. The MKII does not have this.

 

In Summary, all four sides including top and bottom have been made from new molds. I have not opened the MKII ( Hope not to have too! lol)

 

The Bolt Stops works fine on the MKII semi.

 

All my new MKII leaked gas to a higher level than the MKI. I have used abbey Maintaince gas on first fill. However they have started to settle down with a few fills. Each one seems to leak from different areas, One on the fill Valve, One from the base and one from the top.

 

They are all a very very tight fit. Much Much tigher than the MKI, I will need to file down the mag, It takes Both hands to pull them out, They also need a few hits to seat.

 

Fit

 

On the MKI AGM mag, it shows wear on the rear, Both sides none on the outset part. ie where the valve (ie where hammer hits) and wear on the side ( Front when part with BB is on right hand side) None on front side of mag.

 

MKII has serious wear on rear, left hand side only, on outset part again towards the left hand side. None on either side on on front Serious wear on the left hand side, none on the right.

 

Preformance

 

They appear to cause the bolt lock to work better, The newer valve, seems harder to fill.

 

The MKII seems to have a little less cool down, the full charge is allowing 75bb on a full charge. I never tried this on the MK1

 

I had to spend a few mins, working on these to get them working, the other cases where bend from del (or maybe from factory) However this was quickly fitted with a screw driver.

 

 

Hope you find this useful guys

 

JE

 

Wow. Nice little overview. What makes them lighter is basically the construction and the fact that they hold less gas. Hopefully, since they have less pins and such, the construction and rigidy won't be worse and have them break if they get dropped...

 

MK.1 mags last for about 100 shots.

 

However you're saying that these new lightweight mags leak gas? What's the point if they leak? If they do, I'll stick with Mk.1 mags any day.

 

-Luis

Edited by Luis21
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Wow. Nice little overview. What makes them lighter is basically the construction and the fact that they hold less gas. Hopefully, since they have less pins and such, the construction and rigidy won't be worse and have them break if they get dropped...

 

MK.1 mags last for about 100 shots.

 

However you're saying that these new lightweight mags leak gas? What's the point if they leak? If they do, I'll stick with Mk.1 mags any day.

 

-Luis

 

Them appear to be at least as strong as the MKI and well the MKI also leak gas, at the start. However as my MK1 mag had wear marks, I am guessing that my retailer test fired my AGM M4 before posting out, They may have also tested the mag, Thus it had one or two fills before I took delivery. The MkII shows no sign of use, So it may take a little longer. As I have received 6 mags, I have used each one only once or twice, However after each use the sign or leaks seem to reduce.

 

 

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hey, when you go to shim the mag follower spring, don't be like me guys. don't struggle for what seems like forever, then just pop off the feed lip and slide it down there in 5 seconds ;).

 

2x 2mm hex screws. use them.

 

edit: sneak peak pics of the VLTOR/KAC reciever tomorrow. then ill be withholding pics till its done.

Edited by stew_b_10
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Two things:

 

First, here is the set of Inokatsu parts that I'm about to install:

 

DSC09609.jpg

 

DSC09611.jpg

 

The parts are of the highest quality. They're all made of steel(tested everything with a magnet). They might also be CNC'ed, which I think they are or milled/lathed. Look at the manufacturing markings.

 

DSC09613.jpg

 

DSC09614.jpg

 

 

The firing block has the little hole for the spring and detent like the original WA but it doesn't use it. Instead, it uses a pretty stiff spring located at the base of the bolt catch. I'm staring to doubt that my spring mod is going to be able to engage the bolt catch now. The spring seems too stiff, I might have to clip off several coils off the little spring...

 

DSC09616.jpg

 

DSC09617.jpg

 

Under the firing block.

DSC09618.jpg

 

Second,

 

After I got the bolt to lock back every single time, here's the aftermath of about 800 rounds. The small steel insert that catches the bolt fell off the bolt catch and softer pot metal started to catch the bolt instead. The softer metal is now ruined and I can't even put the steel face back on anymore...

 

This is what happens when a metal has continuous contact with a harder metal. This is the stock AGM part. Once again, the weak point of the gun.

 

DSC09619.jpg

 

DSC09620.jpg

 

DSC09623.jpg

 

Now I'm going to go install the Inokatsu parts, go to the store and get some duster, test it out and report back in a couple hours.

 

-Luis

 

 

 

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I've been following this thread ever since the AGM GBB came out in my country. I want to ask if anyone has tried Bomber magazines for testing or in a game and how did it work compared to the stock mag. This gun is gaining popularity and stocks for spare magazines are a bit sparse.

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I've been following this thread ever since the AGM GBB came out in my country. I want to ask if anyone has tried Bomber magazines for testing or in a game and how did it work compared to the stock mag. This gun is gaining popularity and stocks for spare magazines are a bit sparse.

I use Bomber but I was in HK when I bought them so managed to test them before purchase. Therefore I have no leak issues. However my other colleague who ordered online had leak issues. I also bought the new WA Super mags and they so far hold up fine too, however they are expensive.

 

As I've got a Prime receiver, I cannot use GHK.

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how far out are the GHK mags from fitting the prime lower? (I dont mind taking a file to inside of the prime magwell it would be gettign refinished anyway)

Not certain...someone in GGI asked the same question but I was lazy, really didn't want to bother doing so much mods to save $5-$10/mag. Esp when Prime receivers are so expensive, that was gonna be the last thing I wanted to mod. I went for the "pick another brand of Mag" route.

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i keep on having problems with the valve of my AGM mag. The tiniest O-ring keeps on getting stuck which is the cause of those leaks..

Any tips on resolving this? Besides replacing the o-ring, which i can't seem to find the correct size anywhere.

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Finally got mine from Uncompany... they said it was QC checked, the box got a UN Test qualified sticker on it.. any ways people said that their magazine was leaking, mine hasn't leaked so far... but there is the problem of the bb droping out if the barrel is pointed downwards, any solution to this? besides that am very happy with this gun :D

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Finally got mine up and running.

 

Runs like a train in semi - no missfeeds, no dribblers fps variance of around 10 fps accross best part of a mag.

 

bolt carrier

RA-T steel one, RA-T aluminium bolt assembly, RA-T variable NPAS and RA-T white plastic nozzle. I swapped out the aluminium side lock for RA-T plastic one and swapped the red RA-T oring for stock AGM one (the bolt was feelign a little tight when extended - didnt want to snap back into place)

 

Hop up unit - RA-T

Hop bucking - red RA-T

hop adjusters - AGM

hop unit spring - AGM

 

GHK mag seems to have a tendency to lock the bolt with one round left in mag but otherwise is fine - loads and ejects easily with zero leaks, holds approx 18 grammes of ultra per fill

 

Abbey Ultra hop fully off, averages over 10 shots using .20s

 

 

NPAS fully closed 0 FPS (OK, no I didnt try that one 10 times lol)

 

NPAS 1 turn open 100 FPS (though failed to fire BB out of the hop reliably)

 

NPAs 1.5 turns open 280 FPS

 

NPAS fully open 461 FPS

 

so with ultra, the FPS you've got around 280 to 460 FPS to play with (OK maybe 230 as absolute bottom if you're prepared to fiddle around in tiny fractions of twiddling between 1 and 1.5 turns of the NPAS - might be useful if you live somewhere with a .5 joule full auto limit lol)

 

still to give full auto a good work out - not convinced that the full-auto hammer lock is totally consistent - I get distinct impression its not locking the RA-tech hammer every time and cos of that every now and then the mag is being fired before bolt is fully forwards.

 

Is not a cooldown issue as theres no tail off in performance instead it goes from full-on full auto at whacking pace, then straigth to a sudden burst of gas out the port, a light recoiling shot (which likely doesnt cycle the bolt far enough) and then a gas vent. On a freshly filled mag it can kick in after 30 to 40 cycles, or can kick in in less than a dozen..

Edited by snorkelman
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Finally got mine from Uncompany... they said it was QC checked, the box got a UN Test qualified sticker on it.. any ways people said that their magazine was leaking, mine hasn't leaked so far... but there is the problem of the bb droping out if the barrel is pointed downwards, any solution to this? besides that am very happy with this gun :D

 

heres a few guesses to have a try at

 

dirty/greasy hop rubber? my stock AGM one was pretty gungy, wasnt likely to grip any thing with that amount of lube on it

 

misaligned hop rubber? if you have white AGM hop chamber then theres should be a distinct circular black outline of the throat of the hop rubber visible when you look into the breech, if its all twisted into an oval shape or sitting deeply inside breech of the hop unit that could be source of the problem

 

spring missing from hop adjuster? No spring and you might not have sufficient tension in the hop rubber to grab a BB

 

When you unscrew outer barrel and slide the barrel assembly out, then the hop unit will come out of the front of the upper receiver along with it.

 

Recessed into top of the hop unit should be a small spring that presses down on the internal hop actuating lever - be careful not to have it sproing out as you draw off the barrel asembly from receiver of the rifle (if you're nervous about losing it then punch the barrel thru a plastic bag so that the bag covers the breech end of the barrel and front of the upper receiver before puling the barel assembly out) If that spring is missing that might be the prob (or even part of the prob in combo with above two).

Edited by snorkelman
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