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I talked with Evike and they said they'd replace the 2Roy cylinder for me and check to see whats up with my BCG. I'll post any progress sometime Saturday afternoon.

 

Well I wasted a trip to Evike, they won't look at my parts nor will they show me how to "install" it due to ATF regulations... Bulls*** I say but whatever. Plus they say I installed it wrong thus it is my fault, I assembled the cylinder just like the AGM one was but the 2Roy broke within 20-30 shots. Does anyone have English instructions or a guide to "properly" assemble a cylinder (bolt)?

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Some problems I've been having with my AGM M4A1: I think the upper receiver isn't properly mated to the lower, and now the pin won't go all the way back in. To solve this, I was thinking of getting a G&P mbk. Did we determine if the G&P MBKs would fit on the AGM M4? I asked RW, but they said 'no' and then tried to get me to buy the WOC, but it sounds like some guys here have managed to make it work.

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Same problem here Wraith, my workaround for the pins not going back in is to half insert the front pin then fully insert the rear pin. After that my front pin goes all the way in, not sure if it will work for you but on mine if the front pin is all the way in my rear pin will not go in at all.

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I put my cylinder and bolt together and my AGM cycles but you can hear that something is wrong by the "hollow" sounds of the shots. When the gun is in automatic it fires erratically. And for both semi and automatic, BBs either roll out of the barrel or "shoot" 5ft with a visible amount of gas pouring out of the barrel and/or the ejection port. What has happened with my BCG?

 

@Wraith18A:

When it comes to RW and the AGM I personally think they are completely biased against it. That 'so called' compatability test is completely assinine trying to show that parts don't work by meshing things together that you just wouldn't do. Would you honestly trying to mesh an AGM upper with a G&P lower, put an AGM bolt into a G&P/WA body, etc... pointless... Visit other airsoft websites and you can find people who've put AGMs into new G&P MBKs or other AGM users putting all sorts of WA/G&P/Inokatsu externals and internals into their guns. Again I honestly think RW is becoming an over priced, primadona POS website touting their ###### because they have the biggest collection.

 

Yes I am a bit peeved with my AGM right and I am starting to wish I waited two weeks until the WE SCAR came out... but being who I am I really want my gun to be ready to skirmish with by August.

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can anyone(who actually owns the cnc'ed hop up unit from EBB) tell me which kind of barrel(aeg or gbb) and which hop up rubber it takes?

It uses the original barrel, bucking, hop-arm and aduster.

 

It also, erm, doesn't seem to work.

 

The holes for the hop arm to fit into are drilled a tiny bit too far up and, as a result, the arm doesn't have the range of movement that it should have.

 

Note that you CANNOT fix this by JB-Welding a blob onto the front of the arm. The problem will still remain because, as the front part tries to go down the back part will STILL be restricted in its movement inside the adjuster.

 

The only way you could fix this would be to heat up the aduster arm and bend it very slightly in the middle.

Not the sort of thing you want to do with your only hop up arm to make it work with an item that is supposed to be a drop-in replacement. :(

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Does anyone know what length inner G&P barrel fits?

 

The stock AGM M4 barrel is 350mm. However a standard 363mm barrel should fit. Just make sure to get the PGC hop-up if you're going to use an AEG barrel.

 

I want to get the PGC hop-up to use AEG buckings instead of the poor stock one. Accuracy and range are horrible stock. It's not even funny.....

 

-Luis

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have you seen the hop? what did you expect? :P

 

Yes, I've spent so much time into modding it so that the BBs won't roll out the barrel but it just won't work. It either holds the BBs and puts way too much hop or it shoots terribly while pissing out BBs when the barrel is pointed downwards.

 

Does anyone have experince with the RA-Tech hop-up? I know it's the same design as the AGM/WA but do the BBs roll out when used? I think it has to do with the actual rubber used, not the hop-up unit.

 

I'm also considering getting a G&P Hop-up rubber and leaving the hop-up unit stock.

 

-Luis

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Good news for all you budget minded GBBR players, I figured out why my bolt (cylinder) kept braking. Not only is the stock hopup rubber a total POS but after 1XXX amount of shots the rubber will shift around causing the inner barrel to twist, that adds extra pressure (negative pressure or something like that?!) on the nozzle and hopup unit. This pressure caused the back of my bolt to smash into the bolt carrier that lead to my bolts to prematurely break.

 

To fix this I used a G&P bucking to properly seat and secure the innerbarrel so the bolt nozzle would properly engage the hopup unit. For the time being I'll keep this set up until I can get my hands on a NPAS BCG kit.

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Does anyone find that the leaking in the mags are caused by the stike valve

 

I managed to repair 2 mags, but the other 2 have leaking strike valves and i have no idea how to fix them ?

 

Gonna see if replacing the o rings makes a difference

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Good news for all you budget minded GBBR players, I figured out why my bolt (cylinder) kept braking. Not only is the stock hopup rubber a total POS but after 1XXX amount of shots the rubber will shift around causing the inner barrel to twist, that adds extra pressure (negative pressure or something like that?!) on the nozzle and hopup unit. This pressure caused the back of my bolt to smash into the bolt carrier that lead to my bolts to prematurely break.

 

To fix this I used a G&P bucking to properly seat and secure the innerbarrel so the bolt nozzle would properly engage the hopup unit. For the time being I'll keep this set up until I can get my hands on a NPAS BCG kit.

:punk: Roecar are you using the stock hopup chamber still?
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RA tech hop unit fits, the issue is getting clearance for the hop actuating arm so that it doesnt permanently over-hop

 

raactuating.jpg

 

the general areas I removed material are highlighted above

 

1 the actuating nubs

2 the top surface between the spring pressure point and the pivot point

3 the bottom surface at front of the lever

 

 

We're talking a tiny depth of material off of each, then rebuild the hop unit, compress the spring, turn the adjuster barrel fully to minimal hop setting, then repeat. You'll need to be particularly careful with the nubs to ensure you maintain the original profile (you dont want to file them into points, or oval them or flatten them)

 

Be warned - Ive yet to see anywhere that sells these actuating arms, so jump in with both feet and attack it like you're planing half the wood off of a two by four then you've only yourselves to blame. A dremmel isnt the tool for this, a small grinding stick and a delicate touch is way more appropriate

 

I've got one of the cheap 12 dollar cnc'd copies of the RA-tech unit on order but it hasnt arrived yet, Stealth might be able to tell you if the areas above are the same ones that would need worked over to get the AGM actuating arm to work with it - if it is then we can safely assume that both the RA-T and the 12 dollar copies are same spec.

 

In which case buy a 7 bucks RA-T hop rubber and the 12 dollar copy elsewhere, rather than the 55 dollar RA-T one and save yourself 43 bucks

 

Mag wise I've got two GHK mags here at the moment neither have leaked 'out the box' I picked up a temporary leak from the release valve on the one I stripped to measure up the internals of but that was just a case of removing and reseating it.

 

Only issues with mine are

 

1 - the bolt stop actuating lever kicks in while theres one BB left in the mag

2 - the valve lock is showing a little wear where the bolt runs over it - the one part of it that could do with being remade in hardened steel

 

have seen one person mention the bb feed lips splitting on one of theres so it gives enough under spring tension to spew BBs - wether thats a one off or down to a dropped/damaged in transit mag I dont know.

 

I've run mine from day one on an inokatsu mag catch and mags are lined up at appropriate height for the bolt carrier, wether same applies runing with original AGM catch I couldnt tell you (I wouldnt assume theres going to be any difference in that respect but it is one of the things Ive changed so best to bear in mind)

 

Edited by snorkelman
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...

 

Mag wise I've got two GHK mags here at the moment neither have leaked 'out the box' I picked up a temporary leak from the release valve on the one I stripped to measure up the internals of but that was just a case of removing and reseating it.

 

Only issues with mine are

 

1 - the bolt stop actuating lever kicks in while theres one BB left in the mag

2 - the valve lock is showing a little wear where the bolt runs over it - the one part of it that could do with being remade in hardened steel

 

...

 

I just received and tested a GHK mag myself from Massive Defense.

As far as what 'gen.' it is, mine has black gas reservoir ends and a silver 'valve locker'.

 

No leaking whatsoever. No gas venting during operation either.

 

One thing I noticed was that the mags wouldn't insert completely.

The solution was to bend the two metal shell tabs at the top rear of the mag 15-30 or so degrees with pliers.

(If you take a look at original AGM mags, you'll have an idea of how much bending is needed.)

Also, forcefully inserting your mags repeatedly can do the job, but will damage your upper receiver. I believe I read similar tips on GGI.

 

I also noticed that the bolt catch didn't always activate with an empty mag during dry fire operation. Perhaps with just 1 BB left it might, but I haven't tried yet.

I also still haven't sanded around the bolt catch area on my stock bolt catch, though.

Manually pulling the bolt with an empty mag works 100%.

 

-T.S.

Edited by T0p Sp!N
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''RA tech hop unit fits, the issue is getting clearance for the hop actuating arm so that it doesnt permanently over-hop''

 

 

Thanks for the information... I think this is just unacceptable, Why can't companies make their airsoft products correctly. If some one is going to pay.. £50 for what is a small piece of plastic and metal, then surely this small piece of over priced materials should at least do the job.

 

I mean this relates to all airsoft items, the quaility is just shocking. I mean look at the wa/we M4 these range from £300 - £500 and they don't work correctly out of the box, but we should accept this........!!!

 

Thats like your new £500 I Phone is great, but to text you need a new key pad, to look at pics you need a new screen and to switch it on you need a new battery, which costs another £100 but won't fit!

Edited by jonny2400
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''RA tech hop unit fits, the issue is getting clearance for the hop actuating arm so that it doesnt permanently over-hop''

 

 

Thanks for the information... I think this is just unacceptable, Why can't companies make their airsoft products correctly. If some one is going to pay.. £50 for what is a small piece of plastic and metal, then surely this small piece of over priced materials should at least do the job.

 

Indeed, though worth bearing in mind it might not neccessarily be the RA-Tech hop unit thats at fault - could just as easily be the actuating arm in the AGM (ie so long as their arm works in their hop unit they might not be overly concerned about hitting 100 pcnt dimensional accuracy to the original WA part).

 

That said at 55 bucks it wouldnt kill RA-T to include an actuating arm of their own (ideally along with a matching adjuster barrel) or even just offer them as an additional purchase option, after all if I wanted best reception for my product I dont want its performance left at mercy of some minor out of spec subcomponent produced by someone else...

 

the most annoying thing is that they've already made them for use in their complete barrel and hop unit set, and use them on their custom inokatsu builds too, so its not as though they've got R&D or CNC programing costs to factor in in order to get some manufactured.

 

cant help feeling its also costing them sales they might otherwise get - e.g if Ive buggered up an AGM/WA/G&P hop arm or adjuster barrel Ive no option but to source another one of the same, whereas if the RA-Tech unit came with those parts I'd be more inclined to treat myself to it as a 'fix problem and upgrade at same time' solution. Whereas if it doesnt come with those parts then I'd need to go to hassle of sourcing them too before I could make use of it (in which case having laid out for those parts I might leave RA-Ts upgraded hop unit to another day...)

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I just received and tested a GHK mag myself from Massive Defense.

As far as what 'gen.' it is, mine has black gas reservoir ends and a silver 'valve locker'.

 

No leaking whatsoever. No gas venting during operation either.

 

One thing I noticed was that the mags wouldn't insert completely.

The solution was to bend the two metal shell tabs at the top rear of the mag 15-30 or so degrees with pliers.

(If you take a look at original AGM mags, you'll have an idea of how much bending is needed.)

Also, forcefully inserting your mags repeatedly can do the job, but will damage your upper receiver. I believe I read similar tips on GGI.

 

I also noticed that the bolt catch didn't always activate with an empty mag during dry fire operation. Perhaps with just 1 BB left it might, but I haven't tried yet.

I also still haven't sanded around the bolt catch area on my stock bolt catch, though.

Manually pulling the bolt with an empty mag works 100%.

 

I should have explained a little more - mine locks back with either 1 BB or zero BBs - ie the latch is already high enough to trip the bolt catch while 1 BB is still in the mag, if it doesnt trip with zero BBs I wouldnt expect it to latch with one remaining

 

as far as locks back when pulled manually it might not neccessarily be the bolt catch or the actuating arm on the mag - the bolt carrier itself might not be cycling far enough under gas blowback to allow it to trip

 

If its tripping OK with AGM mag and not with the GHK I'd chrono it with both mags - if the seal is just off on the GHK it could be dropping power slightly and giving you a 90 or 95 percent cycle - far enough to cock the hammer and cycle the next BB but just a teeny amount off from going far enough to get behind the bolt catch.

 

Fully cocked the bolt carrier really only goes 6 to 8mm further than rear of the bolt catch (on mine I make it 7.5mm) so it wouldnt take a great deal of short stroking for it to fail to go back far enough - e.g. if mine blew back just 8mm less than full stroke it would never let the catch trip

 

That might not neccessarily show up in chrono results either , but if there was a discrepancy that could explain it.

Edited by snorkelman
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