the hot tuna Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 The problem is that the main spring inside the mag just isn't strong enough to push the bolt-catch up so it engages in the time it takes for the BCG to slam back and forward again. The only way to fix this is to either pack something behind the spring to pre-load it or to use different mag's. No idea. I haven't tried em. Oddly enough, loads of people claim to have bought them and the main thing they say is that they're lighter. Which we already know. Nobody seems keen to say whether the V2 mags work the bolt catch properly. I'm guessing that's cos it'd mean admitting it didn't work properly to begin with. Right, but personally I think doing a little moddification to make them work is worth the savings. Thanks by the way, this thread is awesome. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KWP Posted July 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 The new 5KU mags is a replica of the AGM mags and seems to have ironed out the AGM mag issues (stronger spring, full metal exterior) and just like the AGM it doesn't leak on green gas. With 630g it also weighs less. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PPM05 Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 The new 5KU mags is a replica of the AGM mags and seems to have ironed out the AGM mag issues (stronger spring, full metal exterior) and just like the AGM it doesn't leak on green gas. With 630g it also weighs less. Well that would be awesome then ! Anyone tried them already ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stew_b_10 Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 be careful. my mag actually developed leaks after i had to take it apart because one of the o-rings became unseated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 be careful. my mag actually developed leaks after i had to take it apart because one of the o-rings became unseated. replaced the 3mm ID x 1mm o--ring in two magazines. emptied one magazine full of bbs with propane doing bursts. both magazines did not vent out gas uncontrollably...they are holding up with propane just fine... i willl do more testing when i fix semi auto on the gun 48 o-rings left in my pack-o o-rings and 4 more magazines to replace o-rings for... ---------------------- Just received my RS charging handle. I will most likely have to do some work on it...will post a how to if i manage to pull it off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 (edited) Guys, I bought my M4 RIS second hand and the previous user had put about 3-4 magazines through it before me. When I got the gun, I shot about 20-25 additional mags and the magazines never leaked the whole time and still hold gas perfectly fine. Take note that this was all with propane/green gas. Also from the start my magazines never swelled up and were extremely easy to insert and get out of the gun. My mags drop out of the gun when I press the magazine release button. So I basically got more than what I could ask for from a mag. No leaks whatsoever and no swelling. That's the problem with AGM though. Their quality isn't consistent throughout. Some people get crappy mags that leak and swell while some don't. Early on it was a hit or miss. Hopefully they've tightened down their consistency issues with quality on their later versions. I'm going to buy 6 5KU magazines as soon as my AEG sells..... I'll let you guys know how they compare to the stock mag and how they perform. Hey Snoopy, about the RS charging handle. Does the hole for the gas tube let the gas key pass through or does it hold it in place properly? I'd be a bit skeptical since the part with the hole takes all the recoil stress from the BCG. Honestly I was also going to get a RS charging handle but since EBB has the PRI replica handle for $25 shipped, I'm going to get it instead later on when my stock handle breaks. Identical to the real PRI, CNC made, and you know it'll be a drop in fit. For the price, it's what you'll pay for a commercial RS handle so it's worth it. -Luis Edited July 22, 2009 by Luis21 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 Hey guys I was wondering...does anyone have an issue with light striking? The mag has been sitting in my room, at about 80 degrees F, and the valve is REALLY hard to push in. When inserted into the gun and fired, it just makes a little "poot" and doesn't move the bolt all the way back or reset the trigger. I've never had this problem with any GBB's I've had, and I just started noticing this in the AGM. Is this a common problem for the AGM M4? @ colazel: I posted earlier about the MOE handguards. Mine were really hard to fit, and even then they don't fit into the delta ring all the way. I had to use the metal handguard cap from a TM M4, and that still doesn't entirely solve the problem. My handguards were ever too slightly large for the cap and delta ring. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beretta Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 The valve might be bent, this happens when you slap the mags in without the hammer being cocked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 (edited) or you can stick the mag in the fridge for 10 minutes then try it again... luis, i will get back to you....i noticed the cnc charging handles on ebb as well...i got a rs one as a just in case part...i got it along with a buffer tube ring wrench...i tightened mine down some thats what happened to my semi-auto hammer sear...hopefully I receive the replacement trigger parts by saturday Edited July 23, 2009 by sacairsoftsn00py Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonny2400 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 No idea. I haven't tried em. Oddly enough, loads of people claim to have bought them and the main thing they say is that they're lighter. Which we already know. Nobody seems keen to say whether the V2 mags work the bolt catch properly. I'm guessing that's cos it'd mean admitting it didn't work properly to begin with. Bolt catch works fine on the MKII, about 90% of the time, However as I have said a number of times, stay clear of the MKII's they leak like mad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 I always made sure the hammer was cocked before I put the mag in, and I did stick the mag in the fridge for 10 mins before trying it again. Same results. If I screw the valve assembly into the body too tight, would that have an effect? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beretta Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 It might have been damaged from the factory, a few of the ones ive seen have been. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 (edited) Nope not the case either. It leaked, but I fixed it. It started doing this the last time I went into the mag to fix the seal. I'm thinking it has something to do with the teflon tape I wrapped around the o-ring that kept slipping, but I did it before and it worked fine. I can't figure out what's causing the problem now. I should further clarify. The bolt does move back, but not far enough to reset the hammer and trigger. I took a look at the floating valve assembly. Is the floating valve supposed to be sticking out, and push back into the nozzle, or is the valve supposed to be resting inside, and pushed outwards but the gas? Edited July 23, 2009 by ruchik Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Good lord! It took almost 2.5 hours to install a PDI inner barrel and a Prime Barrel guide. At least now I know for sure that my gun will shoot straight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 At the risk of telling you how to suck eggs, a normal GBB works in a simple way. The hammer hits the firing pin and then bounces back slightly which causes the firing pin to be pushed into into the gas valve momentarily and this releases a short blast of gas which cycles the slide or bolt carrier. The WA Magna system is a bit smarter than this. The first part works the same, the hammer strikes the firing pin and then bounces back which pushes the firing pin forward so it can depress the gas valve. This is where things are slightly different. The gas valve is HELD open by that lever built into the mag. The slide (or in the case of the M4, the bolt carrier) moves back about 1". The shape of the slide (or bolt carrier) is designed to depress that tab after roughly 1" so that the lever unlocks the gas valve again, which shuts off the flow of gas. Basically, this means you get a measured amount of gas with each shot. Wait no, I think this is the problem. I lost the little spring for the valve lock lever, so it can't move up or down anymore. But this just started happening...I lost that spring a while ago and the mag/gun worked fine for a bit. Maybe it decided it didn't like not having that lever working anymore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stew_b_10 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 would you like to elaborate on the issues you faced? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 I did, just a couple posts above. The mag doesn't seem like it's releasing enough gas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 @Snoopy: Sounds good. I'm trying to get an armorer's wrench to tighten the stock ring down as well as the barrel nut. They come loose after firing a couple mags. Just post up the mods you do to the handle. @Ruchik: My mag also has that same problem sometimes, especially when full. The pressure of the gas is stronger than the hammer spring. All I have to do is take it out of the gun and release a burst of gas manually and insert it back in and fire a shot right away. What happens is that the valve sort of freezes in place. Make sure you lube the valve and the pin that's pushed down by the hammer. @Roecar: What in the world made it take so long? -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 i tightened the barrel nut on mine first time i had the gun....i have me wrenches to tighten the barrel nut and the buffer tube ring now... every little thing seems to be failing...piece by piece, i end up spending what i would have on a g&p woc.... check out the list of what will be my complete setup... AGM M4 RIS............................................................................. ....................................$129 Airsoft Surgeon Light Weight Aluminum Bolt Carrier for WA M4..................................$115 G&P WA M4 Steel Hammer.......................................................................... ..................$56 G&P WA M4 Steel Sear............................................................................ ......................$28 G&P WA M4 Steel Trigger......................................................................... ......................$39 G&P WA M4 Steel Bolt Stop............................................................................ ...............$39 G&P WA M4 Anti-Rotation Links........................................................................... ..........$19 Guarder Hard Type Hop Bucking......................................................................... .............$5 KM 6.04mm TN Barrel for M4.............................................................................. ............$38 MAG Spring Kit for WA M4.............................................................................. .................$8 Pro Arms Adjustable Hop Unit............................................................................ ............$62 Pro Arms Loading Nozzle ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total: $538 before shipping sooner or later the hammer sear will ###### out...have one on hand, just in case oh, make it a G&P... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 i tightened the barrel nut on mine first time i had the gun....i have me wrenches to tighten the barrel nut and the buffer tube ring now... every little thing seems to be failing...piece by piece, i end up spending what i would have on a g&p woc.... check out the list of what will be my complete setup... AGM M4 RIS............................................................................. ....................................$129 Airsoft Surgeon Light Weight Aluminum Bolt Carrier for WA M4..................................$115 G&P WA M4 Steel Hammer.......................................................................... ..................$56 G&P WA M4 Steel Sear............................................................................ ......................$28 G&P WA M4 Steel Trigger......................................................................... ......................$39 G&P WA M4 Steel Bolt Stop............................................................................ ...............$39 G&P WA M4 Anti-Rotation Links........................................................................... ..........$19 Guarder Hard Type Hop Bucking......................................................................... .............$5 KM 6.04mm TN Barrel for M4.............................................................................. ............$38 MAG Spring Kit for WA M4.............................................................................. .................$8 Pro Arms Adjustable Hop Unit............................................................................ ............$62 Pro Arms Loading Nozzle ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total: $538 before shipping sooner or later the hammer sear will ###### out...have one on hand, just in case oh, make it a G&P... Yeah man, that's a stock WOC right there... Kinda makes you think twice... I know I would. Here's my upgrade plan(the ones with * means I already have that part): *AGM M4 RIS (062) $100 *Full set of Inokatsu steel lower receiver components (Firing block w/ bolt catch, hammer, trigger sear, trigger, and selector switch) $45 Complete steel RA-Tech bolt carrier group w/ NPAS $260 Copy of the PGC/ Pro Win hop-up chamber for AEG barrels $14 (should arrive tommorrow) *Classic Army 6.08mm 363mm AEG barrel free Heavy recoil buffer $9 That's $428 without shipping costs. Not bad at all, still less than a WOC. More than a WE. I also plan to buy 6 of the 5KU magazines so there's another $140. I don't mind the price at all since it should pretty much good to go. The only thing I see wearing out in the future is the bolt catch. -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 @Roecar: What in the world made it take so long? Well the parts have super tight tolerances especially when combined with the G&P rubber which is too long. Its mostly putting it together and taking it apart until things mesh properly. Took a couple of tries to get the assembly to fit properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Well the parts have super tight tolerances especially when combined with the G&P rubber which is too long. Its mostly putting it together and taking it apart until things mesh properly. Took a couple of tries to get the assembly to fit properly. You got a WA type PDI 6.01? or the AEG type combined w/ a Prime hop-up unit and a G&P AEG bucking? -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 You got a WA type PDI 6.01? or the AEG type combined w/ a Prime hop-up unit and a G&P AEG bucking? -Luis WA type Prime Barrel Guide (hopup), G&P WA barrel bucking, amd a 6.01 PDI inner barrel. G&P bucking are way too long to fit in a WA type hopup so I trimmed about 2-3mm from the "back" end. Also the Prime hopup as I said has super tight tolerances to it takes a lot of silicon and careful pressure to get it all to fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 WA type Prime Barrel Guide (hopup), G&P WA barrel bucking, amd a 6.01 PDI inner barrel. G&P bucking are way too long to fit in a WA type hopup so I trimmed about 2-3mm from the "back" end. Also the Prime hopup as I said has super tight tolerances to it takes a lot of silicon and careful pressure to get it all to fit. That's cool. We'd all appreciate if you could let us know how good it's shooting. You know, we want to know if the $230 in parts is worth it. Thanks, -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Definitely will, all that I'm waiting for now is the RATech BCG which was shipped as of yesterday HK time. I'm hoping it'll be here by Friday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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