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got a chance to take a look over the 063 I picked up the other day (the little shorty)

 

compared with the 061:

 

front sight block has a fake gas tube and hole to mount it, as per the 062 -the 061 has no gas tube just a moulding of one inside its hideous plastic handguards. If you want to add one to an 061 then you need to drill the hole for it in the front sight block.

 

Only issue with fake gas tube on the 063 is it was fitted back to front at factory (woops)

 

7.5" outer barrel - again reasonably good quality as per the one on the 061/062. Main difference is that it now uses the narrow G&P type shoulder rather than the fat WA style shoulder (as a result the barrel nut F/F mount off my RS Hogue tube tightens down fine onto it)

 

Only issue with the outer barrel is the notches cut to fit in the spigots on front of the upper receiver are shorter than the spigots themselves. Because of that theres a wafer thin stand off between the base of the barrel and front of the upper. That doesnt affect tightness of the barrel but I'd suggest running over the ends of the spigots on the receiver with a file, that way the rear face of the outer barrel will be in full contact with the front of the upper, and not just resting on the front of the spigots.

 

Hop unit is a slightly tighter fit inside the barrel trunnion, and theres no longer a gap between front of the hop adjuster drum and the front of the cut out in the outer barrrel.

 

The F/F barrel nut is usual internal thread on inside to screw onto the receiver, and is M48x1.25 thread on the outside for the F/F tube to screw over it (unlike the hogue style tubes that screw inside the FF nut)

 

Flash hider is slightly different styling from the stock M4A1 flash hider, has no grub screw in the bottom but is still steel and same negative thread as the other models.

 

 

Only other real change over the standard rifles is the windage-only 4 aperture flip up rear sight. As usual its a knock off of a real steel design and its been done better in airsoft form before. This AGM one is all just a wee bit loose - not enough to make it rattly etc, but enough to make it feel more lightweight and cheap than it would otherwise need to. A stronger spring behind its locking detente, a counter sunk screw to hold its tightening plate and the rivet that holds the aperture drum set a little tighter, would make it feel a lot more robust and cost next to nothing to do. anyways its nothing that wouldnt take 5 or ten mins of effort to knock it into much better shape if you were determined to keep it

 

Internals look identical to the 061 parts. OK the buffer is now white plastic rather than black, the hammer lock is now coated black rather than being bare metal but thers no changes in them. Bolt catch etc are all just as wear prone as on the original (I wouldnt really expect changes there anytime soon)

 

Magazine is the same sort of 780 gram supplied with the 061

 

 

Now personaly I don't actually like the styling of the 063 (I bought it cos Ive a need for the 7.5" barrel asembly it came with as an option on one gun, the flip up rear sight for that build too, and the gas-tube-ready front sight block for a different project) The rail adorned free float tube I dont like at all especially in combo with a conventional front sight.

 

That said I know at least CA have an AEG that uses same sort of setup (might be popular, I dont know), and Im sure it would be OK for a real steel config (practicality of 7.5" barrels aside..)

 

Thing is Im not sure AGM really thought it thru from point of view of a WA based gas gun with a hop adjuster thats in front of the barrel shoulder, not tucked away behind the ejection port like it is on an AEG :D

 

Someone buys that CA AEG and wants to adjust the hop? No problem, just open ejection port cover and fiddle with it to your hearts content. But thanks to that combo of fixed front sight assembly and hop adjuster hidden underneath the tube, it becomes a bit of a farce on the GBB version.

 

The whole lot needs stripped before you can unscrew the F/F tube - so you've got to remove the flash hider, knock out sling mount split pin, then the two front sight block pins and the grub screw that hides under the sling mount, then pull the lot off along with the gas tube. Only then do you have room to unscrew the F/F tube and get to the hop.

 

At very least anyone who does decide to keep it 'as is' would be better off striping it once, and discarding the grub screw that hides under the sling loop. Cos then you'ld only need to knock the two front sight block pins out and not have to fart around knocking the sling loop split pin out every time too

 

The real solution to all that faffing around would be to set it up with a flip up front sight. The PRI one is ideal, need to adjust the hop? flip up the front sight and you've got suggicient clearance to allow the F/F tube to both be unscrewed and slid far enough forwards to give access to the hop adjustment.

Edited by snorkelman
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I just went outside to see how far my shots were going. There's some scattered BBs on the dirt which means that the BBs did not roll out there. I had 83 staps from where I was shooting to where the BBs landed. With about 3 feet per step, that would get the range out to approximately 250 feet using green gas and .25g BBs.

 

The thing that I noticed however was that when the magazine cools down, BB's sail high.

 

Sorry, I do not have any idea as to how hard my gun is shooting as I do not have a chrono.

 

 

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Thought I'd add my findings.

 

Rep. Daniel defense lite rails will not fit over the hopup bump and need dremelling to do so. The ring however fits smoothly on the threads.

 

Rep. Larue rails fit, as do the rings, but the rail isn't quite flush with the upper.

 

Guarder WA steel outer barrels fit as well.

 

 

 

Sorry if it's been covered.

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got fung to send over one of the Element TD grips along with the 063 (a tan one as I wanted to test wether the plastic its made out of will take a dye job or not)

 

It fits onto the lower but its too narrow at top (narrower than the base of the lower it mounts against so the lower overhangs the side of it) ah well least I can boil dye it now without worrying wether it'll shrink or not lol

 

edit - the tan element TD grip dyes a treat less than 5 mins in boiling dye and it was done (with no shrinkage from being boiled for that amount of time). I used a spare plum dye caplet I had left over from doing AK parts a couple of years back so its now a plum TD grip lol.

 

Now Ive just got to find one that actually fits onto the gun as it should and then I can dye one the colour I actually had in mind (I want a very dark blue grip for use on a pearlescent blue AGM Im puting together)

 

7.5" barreled shorty with its stock AGM hop unit and .25 BBs gets 190 to 200 feet of straight flight before the BBs run out of steam and drop like a stone (variable npas set to chrono 295 FPS with the .25s)

Edited by snorkelman
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Thought I'd add my findings.

 

Rep. Daniel defense lite rails will not fit over the hopup bump and need dremelling to do so. The ring however fits smoothly on the threads.

 

Rep. Larue rails fit, as do the rings, but the rail isn't quite flush with the upper.

 

Guarder WA steel outer barrels fit as well.

 

 

 

Sorry if it's been covered.

 

 

Are you talking of this DD lite rail?

 

http://www.ebairsoft.com/lite-rail-rail-p-2310.html

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Yeah, I hope to finish my AGM and buy a WOC when I return from basic/AIT in February.

 

Oh yeah, I shot about 200 rounds of .3's w/propane, through my AGM yesterday and it was dead accurate. .2's seem to been just plain unusable, they fly all over the place. I hope to use .25's for a happy medium.

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Right, I've just been a silly bugger and had a bit of a fiddle around with some things.

 

Turns out, with a bit of fettling and fiddling, you can get pretty much any GBB mag to chamber rounds in one of these babies.

 

I've just chambered 10 rounds from a TM Sig mag, for example. I've added some tape and stuff to hold it in the correct place, and it all lines up fine. All I need to do is extend the valve knocker with a bit of something, secure the mag a bit better, and I'll have an AGM M4 that runs from TM Sig mags.

 

Is this awesome, or what? :D

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i want ot know if the delta ring on the AGM is a G&P style delta ring because i dont know what the difference between a G&P or another?

 

also , do you think the DD OMEGA 7.0 handguard will fit on AGM

http://www.ebairsoft.com/omega-style-freefloat-pr-1707.html

 

thank for you time :P

 

Seeing as it uses the existing barrel nut, I don't see why not.

 

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Update after about 400 rounds:

 

1. bolt catch piece on the bolt carrier has broken off. I see a small hole there now and have had to file it down since it mushroomed and was pushing against the upper.

2. mag has started leaking

3. barrel nut came loose

 

fixes for the above problems:

 

- disable bolt catch mechanism temporarily until a new bolt carrier is replaced

- will replace all o-rings in the mag. I've already taken the mag apart and then lubed all the factory o-rings but that didn't help. looks like one of the smaller o-rings is all twisted and curled up and maybe where the leak is coming from. hopefully I can find all the correct sized o-rings at the local hardware store

- when I first tightened the barrel up I did it by hand. Guess that wasn't tight enough for the recoil and vibration after just a few hundred rounds. Ended up taking the whole front end apart and tightened the nut with a vise wrench and strap wrench. The front end is now solid with no movements again

 

The gun still shoots straight and hard and I've enjoyed every second of it. Hopefully by replacing the o-rings I can fix my mag and shoot a few more hundred rounds before replacing some other parts of the gun.

Edited by Bonjour43ma
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I have bought replacement o-rings for the magazine. It helped for a couple of mags worth but did not hold up afterwards. As with classic guns, a possible fix would be super-gluing the o-ring into the shaft where it sits on. I have done that and emptied about 4 mags worth on one of the magazines I have done it to and it has held up.

 

Also, I have stopped using my AGM magazines with the fix as I am now in posession of 4 WA magazines and 2 GHK magazines.

 

I might be selling 5 AGM magazines with the super glued o-rings. I will probably toss in spare 3mm ID x 1mm o-rings with them too.

 

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Well, I know it's old news really but I just sheered off the rear of my bolt after about 1500 rounds on propane/green gas. The broken piece actually dislodged in a way that the bolt carrier got stuck. I had to remove the stock tube first to try to move the bolt back because it was stuck in a way that prevented me from opening up the receiver.

 

Obviously I need to replace the bolt now and I was wondering how many people had replacement plastic bolts and how they are holding up. Actually, even if you have the aluminum bolt I was wondering how they were holding up as well.

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I have been using the Pro-Arms hi-power nozzle in my gun. I have shot a little over 3000 rounds through it now. Its still kicking...

 

On a side note, I got to chrono my gun at a shop today. With Airsoft Elite .25g BBs, my gun was shooting 460-470 FPS using propane. I am using a G&P hop bucking, stock hop, and a Pro-Arms hi-power nozzle in my AGM.

 

Hmm..no wonder I get shots up to 250 feet. LoL!

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I have bought replacement o-rings for the magazine. It helped for a couple of mags worth but did not hold up afterwards. As with classic guns, a possible fix would be super-gluing the o-ring into the shaft where it sits on. I have done that and emptied about 4 mags worth on one of the magazines I have done it to and it has held up.

 

Also, I have stopped using my AGM magazines with the fix as I am now in posession of 4 WA magazines and 2 GHK magazines.

 

I might be selling 5 AGM magazines with the super glued o-rings. I will probably toss in spare 3mm ID x 1mm o-rings with them too.

 

so are you saying that it's not worth the time to try to fix these AGM mags and that I should just get some WA, GHK, or Bomber mags instead?

 

 

btw, woot! I found the bolt catch piece that had broken off of the bolt carrier! what a miracle. Going to superglue it back on and see how long it'll last. :)

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So I lost my part #18. I'm getting another BCG anyway, but is there anything I can use to replace it, or anywhere to buy it?

 

part 18 is an eclip, its either a 3mm or 2.5mm eclip (cant remember which exactly off hand, though from memory Im leaning towards it being 3mm)

 

 

first two searches of ebay.com I tried I found these

 

3mm

http://cgi.ebay.com/Thunder-Tiger-3mm-e-clips-

PD0977_W0QQitemZ360156183087QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item53dafb3a2f&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116://http://cgi.ebay.com/Thunder-Tiger-3...p3286.m20.l1116

 

2.5mm

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-E-Clips-2-5mm-20-...p3286.m20.l1116

 

for the prices beign asked you might as well buy a bag of each and Im sure you might find them a few cents cheaper on there if you searched a bit longer - I jsut grabbed a listing of each

Edited by snorkelman
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