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The machine at work is set up for thread turning, so all i did was use an internal threading bar with a 1.75mm pitch full-form insert, the thread actually measures a 1.5mm pitch, but its very stumpy and thick, so using a bigger insert and not going quite as deep allowed me to match the thread on the receiever perfectly.

 

Ah, lucky...

 

I was thinking about threading my own barrel nut, but I couldn't find a cheap tap that was the right size. I ended up not needing to anyway.

 

Also, the handguard is one piece then (delta-ring/barrel-nut 'built in')?

 

-T.S.

Edited by T0p Sp!N
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Ah, lucky...

 

I was thinking about threading my own barrel nut, but I couldn't find a cheap tap that was the right size. I ended up not needing to anyway.

 

Also, the handguard is one piece then (delta-ring/barrel-nut 'built in')?

 

-T.S.

 

 

Three peices. I used a peice of solid aluminium bar to make the barrel nut, and the handguard is made of 1 3/4" ali tubing with a 1/8" wall thickness, giving plenty of ridgidity int he handguard to survive a beating. The thread going into the handguard is about 1 1/2" long to give maximum strength

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What brands will fit the AGM if i choose to buy some new parts. Like a hop chamber; Nozzle, Bolt.

Bolt stopper anyone ? Link

 

New on the gas front.

Any part links wolud help a lot.

 

Using WGC as my supplier or anything relaible.

 

Mine broke down today, going to take a deeper look on it tomorrow, but im guessing a cracked nozzle locked oval when i looked and the bolt does not go all the way inside the hop chamber.

 

//Salazar SWE

 

 

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Everything here is confirmed as compatible.

 

Hop-up Chmbers that will fit:

-PGC AEG barrel HU chmber

-PGC copy

-Prime AEG barrel and bucking HU chamber

-Prime WA style chamber

-RA-Tech chamber

-G&P HU chamber

-WA chamber

 

Loading nozzles:

-WA nozzle

-RA-Tech plastic

-Ra-Tech aluminum(just change out the orange o-ring is the movement is sluggish, use the stock o-ring)

-Pro Arms Hi Power

-Airsoft Surgeon/G&P

-2Roy(but they crack fast, beware)

-Inokatsu Plastic

 

Bolt Carrier:

-RA-Tech steel carrier

-WA carrier

-Airsoft Surgeon/G&P colt style carrier

-Airsoft Surgeon VLTOR lighweight carrier

 

Bolt stop:

-Inokatsu(I have one, it's great)

-Ra-Tech(needs a bit of filing)

-G&P stopper

-LCT

 

Lower receiver parts(hammers, sears, and triggers):

-Inokatsu(I have all Inokatsu, all you need to do is file the firing bock down a bit)

-G&P parts

-WA parts

-RA-Tech ball-bearing hammer

-ACM steel parts

-LCT ball bearing hammer(I don't know if it fits first hand though)

 

All this can be found on WGC Shop by searching WA M4, on RA-Tech's website, or on Redwolfairsoft.

 

Good luck with your AGM.

 

-Luis

Edited by Luis21
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Everything here is confirmed as compatible.

 

Hop-up Chmbers that will fit:

-PGC AEG barrel HU chmber

-PGC copy

-Prime AEG barrel and bucking HU chamber

-Prime WA style chamber

-RA-Tech chamber

-G&P HU chamber

-WA chamber

 

Loading nozzles:

-WA nozzle

-RA-Tech plastic

-Ra-Tech aluminum(just change out the orange o-ring is the movement is sluggish, use the stock o-ring)

-Pro Arms Hi Power

-Airsoft Surgeon/G&P

-2Roy(but they crack fast, beware)

-Inokatsu Plastic

 

Bolt Carrier:

-RA-Tech steel carrier

-WA carrier

-Airsoft Surgeon/G&P colt style carrier

-Airsoft Surgeon VLTOR lighweight carrier

 

Bolt stop:

-Inokatsu(I have one, it's great)

-Ra-Tech(needs a bit of filing)

-G&P stopper

-LCT

 

Lower receiver parts(hammers, sears, and triggers):

-Inokatsu(I have all Inokatsu, all you need to do is file the firing bock down a bit)

-G&P parts

-WA parts

-RA-Tech ball-bearing hammer

-ACM steel parts

-LCT ball bearing hammer(I don't know if it fits first hand though)

 

All this can be found on WGC Shop by searching WA M4, on RA-Tech's website, or on Redwolfairsoft.

 

Good luck with your AGM.

 

-Luis

 

Very good info!!!

THX mate hate slowing this thread down with stupid questions.

Will order install and give a review.

 

 

 

//Salazar

 

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got another bundle of bits thru from Airsoft Global this time, some of it I needed for a build other bits were cheapies to have a look at/compare

 

cheapies

 

9" outer barrel

bearing hammer

hard recoil alu buffer

cnc hop unit

another different TD grip (the one that suits the WE as well as the WA)

 

plus

 

G&P hammer lock (gives me one each of AGM Ino and G&P to play with)

G&P steel buffer lock

G&P mag catch (cost complete is same as the main catch part from Inokatsu)

G&P eccentric front pin (my 061 should give its capabilities a good test lol)

 

Inokatsu/LCT steel trgger (I bought one of these for previous build its cheaper than the G&P and works fine)

 

 

will post back results on using them in an hour or two (fit, dimensions and any issues with function etc)

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initial impression of cheapies

 

9" outer barrel - nicely cut and finished with a matt anodized coating and a well defined CCW thread. Straight profile. Rear face is nice and true.

 

to be aware of:

 

Uses narrow shoulder so the standard AGM 061/062 barrel nut wont be usable unless you add some spacers (not supplied).

 

No grooves cut for front sight post thru pins.

 

 

bearing hammer - Not a pretty finish (painted/powder coated black and has some gnarly lumps in the finish on the side of it) That said the sear surfaces for trigger and semi auto sear are sharp and well defined. Same width as stock AGM hammer.

 

The bearing races are bit lightweight and theres some side to side play - still to fit it though so I dont know yet if thats any going to prove any sort of issue

 

I think what its missing is the sprung steel washer that RAT stick in the middle of their set to grip the cntre groove of the hammer axis pin, that would account for the play

 

If the play is an issue then its going to be very easy to resolve (reduce the length of the outer bearing axles so the outers can sit closer together) a 1 min job with a file or some heavy grit wet n dry

 

Personally I'd have preffered if they built it without the bearings as just a nice plain steel replacement for the stock pot metal hammer (sidesteps any concern over quality of bearings then) but thats just me being picky at this stage

 

 

 

hard recoil alu buffer super shiny finish and well enough machined and turned

 

Is one of those ones with the bundle of rattly weights inside. I dont see those doing anything for recoil but its certainly a lot stronger than the stock plastic moulding included with the AGM. Basically if the weights bother you then knock the end cap pin out, remove the cap, throw away the rattly weights refit the cap and stick the pin back in. Et voila tis done.

 

cnc hop unit - Unlike stealths this one is a spot on match for the RAT unit with the exception of one step of machining thats been omitted from it

 

theres a lip at breech end of the RAT unit with a couple of thou of material machined off behind that lip inside the hop chamber (for a width of a mm or so) its so shallow you cant really see it just feel it

 

The cheapy has the lip but lacks that groove, but to be fair though I really cant see that groove being all that significant. The lack of it on the cheapy doesnt prevent the RAT hop rubber fitting and the unit goes thru all the motions of dialing in the amount of hop as it should once assembled.

 

another different TD grip this is the one that suits the WE as well as the WA so has small hole for the selector detent spring that WE would require and has the little removable base plug. My other 'WA only' one that I got from gunner doesnt have the holes on the top and lacks the base plug.

 

This We compatible one is a much better fit to the contours of the lower receiver - it doesnt overhang the rear of the receiver like the one gunner supplied and it doesnt undercut the width of the receiver (leaving the sides of the lower overhanging it) either.

 

Only downside is that the Wa-only one that gunner supplied had nicer grain moulding on the sides of the grip (the WE compatible one has a rougher grain that isnt as well defined and has a small circular moulding mark amongst it).

 

The new one is also a slightly softer material than the WA only one - you can feel just a little give when you squeeze hard on bottom of this one, whereas the WA only one was totally rigid

 

For most folks that shouldnt be an issue, but as I want to dye it a different colour then the change of material its made from raises the prospect that it might shrink while dying it. I'll just need to wait and see..

 

Inokatsu/LCT steel trigger I bought one of these for previous build - its cheaper than the G&P and I found it works fine

 

This new one was LCT retail boxed and has a jet black finish, my original one was bought from Ino themselves via RAT as a spare part, and has more of a dark grey phospate finish, so visually the two are slightly different finishes from each other.

 

That difference in finish aside they both appear to be the same dimensionally etc.

 

 

anyways first impressions over I'll try and get the stuff assembled into a receiver and checked n tested later tonite

Edited by snorkelman
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nopes thats the barrel extension, as TS said theres no need for one of those on the AGM (or the Kings Arms MBKs) as its incorporated into the casting of the upper of those

 

I meant the black CNC hop unit, though mine was bought from Airsoft Global

 

I think stealth picked his up from EB, but found it was machined out of spec could be an earlier batch or just luck of the draw

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dose the CNC hop fix the problem of BB rolling out the front?

 

no BBs rolling out barrel on my 061 with RAT hop unit then again no BBs rolling out the barrel on m 063 with original AGM hop unit.

 

As this CNC hop is a clone of the RAT then yeh if you have BBs rolling out then this could fix it - but I expect any fix acheived will just be the heavier hop rubber which folks will buy and fit at same time (G&P or RA-Tech) which you could just buy and fit in the standard AGM plastic hop..

 

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dose the CNC hop fix the problem of BB rolling out the front?

 

How many BB's have you shot through the gun?

 

When I first got it, It seemed like a good amount made it through, but once I'd adjusted the hop and let off 10 or 15 mags worth, the problem seemed to have resolved itself.

 

That's even with a hop-up unit that I cracked when the front and fell off and get hit by a stray BB not getting chambered :P

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I'm going to repeat my sayings about the float valve being a bit too long, and pushing the BB's too far into the hop, causing them to roll out the barrel.

 

I had the same problem, and it totally disappeared when I lopped the floating valve.

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cant say I've noticed any difference on mine (only hammer related issue I ever had was lack of consistent full auto lock when I used the Ino hammerlock and selector, other than that its been fine)

 

tried removing it cleaning up the bushings regreasing and reseating it?

Edited by snorkelman
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Does anyone have a problem with the hammer light striking? It feels like the hammer isn't dropping with as much force as it used to. Is the hammer spring wearing out, or is it just gummed up?

 

 

I can't say I've noticed this... my lowers continue to appear brand new with the exception of paint wear in the normal spots ;)

 

btw, I shot a full magazine in one long auto burst for the first time tonight.. probably shouldn't be done, and I've waited this long because i've expected something to break. lo' and behold, no breaks but a helluva lot of fun instead.. Loving AGM right now.

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Nope haven't tried taking apart the hammer mech yet. But the mag problem still persists. The valve is REALLY hard to push in when it's got gas in it. I know it wasn't always that way either. I stuck the mag in the freezer for 10 minutes, still the valve was stiff. The valve itself, when the mag is empty, moves in and out just fine, so it's not bent. And it's leaking on top of that. I superglued the o-ring in place, no dice, still leaks. Something is causing that valve to push outwards with extreme pressure. At this point, I think I'm just going to can it.

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Well, my RA-Tech parts have arrived! NPAS, New hop rubber, and a repalcement part #7 (I think it is). Though, I didn't realise one of them came with the NPAS kit. Uhm. Ah well.

 

Now, to figure out where the bally hell I've put my chronograph and get this baby running at 330fps!

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I had that problem, to a small degree.

 

I just unscrewed the stock tube, added some superglue to the threads, and screwed it back in.

 

I really need to do it again; not because it's loosening or anything, but because it's ever so slightly at an angle xD

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with the AGM M4's you'll find the barrels and stocks arent screwed on tight when shipped.. not for any kind of lazyness, but because the receiver is ali, and the bits attached to it are varying metals..

 

because they're shipped through multiple different climates (temperatures) ali expands/contracts at a hellish rate.. this contraction/expansion can cause barrels/delta rings/stock tube nuts to lock up solid or even snap off if they're done up tight..

 

On my gun i just had to tighten up the stock tube ring with the appropriate spanner and it was good as gold

Edited by Bane
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*sigh* Alright, I give up. This is bugging the frell out of me, and I want it sorted.

 

My AGM is currently being REALLY inconsistent. The power will vary by as much as 70 odd fps, and at the beggining of a mag the gun just refuses to fire; all I get is a little "puff", that'll just about fire the BB, but the bolt carrier won't budge.

 

Sometimes, after doing this ten or so times, the mag will behave and fire relativley normaly, with the afforementioned power variations.

 

This happens with all 3 of my Gen "2" AMG mags (original is leaking and I've not fixed it yet), running propane. There's some interference between the rubber seal on the mags and the bolt, but not a huge amount. I've just taken apart the Lower receiver, cleaned everything, checked it's seated correctly, and so on, and it's still doing it.

 

Parts installed are:

 

> RA-Tech NPAS Bolt

> RA-T Steel bolt catch

> RA-T Hop rubber

 

EVERYTHING else is stock AGM. The problems were around before I stuck these bits in this morning, and have persisted with them in, meaning that the problem is neither caused by, or solved by these parts.

 

So, Suggestions, anybody?

 

 

EDIT: It's not likely to be the mags, surely? I've heard tell of them causing inconsistencies, but surely not THAT much... right?

Edited by MDK_Marshal
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