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I posted a similar question in the Jing Gong M4 thread, but I thought you guys might be able to help with this.

 

I want to buy a GBBR to use for very light target shooting in my backyard with propane (cheapest and most available gas in my area). I'm considering either the JG, AGM, or ACM.

 

Which will last the longest with extremely light use with propane firing mainly single shots? It will not be used for skirmishing, only for back yard tinkering about once or twice a month.

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Ive got some big troubles related to the delta rings and barrels and uppers.

 

Delta rings

1 stock AGM deltaring wich has bad threading.

 

1 Dboys deltaring (i think its for AEG, but that shouldnt mather in my eyes) that is brand new.

 

 

Uppers

 

2x AGM original uppers, both with bad threadings.

 

1x WA M4 Vltor upper, its brand new.

 

 

Barrels

 

1x Stock AGM barrel

 

 

 

Now to the problem (il explain as well as i can, if it doesnt make sense, il try posting a video instead):

 

On the 2x stock AGM uppers, the Dboys delta ring fit perfectly, but the ring that pushes the barrel to the upper, is a lot further sinked into the delta ring, so it doesnt leave enough room for the AGM barrel to fit inside the small space thats left for it by the delta ring.

The AGM stock Barrel ring, is way to big for the AGM uppers, and wobbles and you can litterally put it on the upper without screwing it.

 

On the 1x WA vltor, the dboys delta ring, is waaay to small, it wont fit, but the stock AGM fits perfectly, its like it was made for the WA upper. But i dont got the barrel extender (the one that houses the hopup unit) yet, so i dont know if the stock AGM barrel will fit, i doubt it.

 

How come that the AGM's original deltaring is made for the WA and doesnt really fit the AGM at all ? atleast not mine.

 

Now i have a barrel extender on the way, i also got a WA front barrel on the way. But i cant seem to find a new AGM deltaring or not even a WA one.

 

I should mention that the goal is to use the WA Vltor upper with just a barrel(any will due) and fit the standard AGM RIS.

 

I hope you can help me fix this mess of components that wont go togheter

Edited by PoleCat
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Ok my ACM arrived today :D

 

Gave it a good clean and lube then a quick test on Kick *albatross* Gas (apparently the most powerful Green Gas on the market). Poor man's chrono put it at about 420-450 as expected.

 

Now a couple of observations:

 

1) Finish is very nice, better than I expected for the price.

2) It feels way heavier (without mag) than a D-Boy metal AEG M4?? Thought they were meant to be lighter?

3) Bolt catch functions well.

4) After I ran out of gas the mag would no longer accept gas it just passed right through, then I noticed the valve stem wasn't fully out, pressed the sticky up triangle bit on the mag and it popped out and all is fine again, is this normal?

5) It appears to have a metal hop chamber or what I think is the hop chamber. Looking into the ejection port with the bolt back, the part just inside the castellated bit looks to be some sort of alloy (perhaps someone can confirm this is the case on the ACM)

6) Front and stock are solid (small wiggle when fully extended) the only movement is between the upper and lower, now is it wise to gently squeeze the lower at the front pin area in a vice to sort this, or am I likely just to crack the lower? Is there a tried and tested fix?

 

Cheers.

 

 

 

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Ok my ACM arrived today :D

 

2) It feels way heavier (without mag) than a D-Boy metal AEG M4?? Thought they were meant to be lighter?

 

4) After I ran out of gas the mag would no longer accept gas it just passed right through, then I noticed the valve stem wasn't fully out, pressed the sticky up triangle bit on the mag and it popped out and all is fine again, is this normal?

 

5) It appears to have a metal hop chamber or what I think is the hop chamber. Looking into the ejection port with the bolt back, the part just inside the castellated bit looks to be some sort of alloy (perhaps someone can confirm this is the case on the ACM)

 

6) Front and stock are solid (small wiggle when fully extended) the only movement is between the upper and lower, now is it wise to gently squeeze the lower at the front pin area in a vice to sort this, or am I likely just to crack the lower? Is there a tried and tested fix?

 

2 yep the receiver is a lot chunkier construction than that on a typical AEG M4

 

4 To be expected. When you fire the gun and the mag valve gets depressed the triangle bit is a valve lock - that pops up and locks the valve open. The valve then stays open till the bolt carrier runs over the top of it during blowbacck and forces it back down - the valve can then spring back to its fully extended (closed) position. When you run the mag out of gas then the bolt cant recoil after the last shot, doesnt run over the valve lock which leaves the valve lock engaged when you remove the mag.

 

5 yes hop chamber is pot metal - is a slightly weird design with a hop rubber all of its own. Can be swapped out for a CNC'd alloy one and a normal WA style hop rubber if you prefer just dont lose the other parts of the original hop (adjuster actuating arm and pivot pin) you'll need those to complete the third party hop unit.

 

6 personally Id just live with it rather than trying to pinch it tight If theres a lot of play you could fit a G&P or RAT adjustable eccentric pin to pull the upper down onto the lower (though you'ld likely need to open up ID of the holes in the lower and upper to get those to fit).

 

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4 To be expected.

 

5 yes hop chamber is pot metal

 

6 personally Id just live with it

 

4 Cheers didn't know how the valve lock worked, thanks.

 

5 So is this worth keeping? if I can get it to work, did plan to go AEG barrel with CNC hop at some point but if this one isn't likely to fail I can do other things first.

 

6 I may just deal with then its very slight but I notice it will probably wait to see how much it bugs me.

 

 

Cheers

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Is that a PPS set nozzle? The flout valve sticks a bit out of the nozzle so I would guess it is. They clearly used element specs for nozzle setup.

 

Once again I was amazed by WA platform. You can easily go from full auto 400 fps to 500 fps semi auto only in just one easy swap of the bolt carrier...no messing with firing group. I just dremeled the part of the BCG that strikes the hammer lock and thus disabling the full auto feature. A+ for that.

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Once again I was amazed by WA platform. You can easily go from full auto 400 fps to 500 fps semi auto only in just one easy swap of the bolt carrier...no messing with firing group. I just dremeled the part of the BCG that strikes the hammer lock and thus disabling the full auto feature. A+ for that.

 

 

 

turning the bolt carrier into a semi-auto carrier doesnt turn the rifle into a semi auto one, it turns it into a full-auto selectable rifle that will lock its hammer up after first shot on auto and needs switched back to semi to clear :)

 

you're better off modding the selector to remove the bump that disengages the semi auto sear (that will ensure that the selector is always set to semi no mater which of the two settings you turn it to)

 

 

 

 

 

,

 

 

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@snorkel

 

I know It still has an auto option but it's not capable of auto firing with the moded carrier. I just like to have an option of really quick change between an full auto replica, and a DMR single shot one - legally speaking. It could be a little hassle if you leave it in auto and it locks up after the first shot, but that's why you have your thumb for. :)

 

 

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@ mutikasha, aye you can thumb the safety back to semi to disengage the hammer lock

 

but you leave yourself with the issue that the hammer lock is a bit of a hair trigger on a lot of these rifles, if it fails to do its job it won't need to be tripped by the bolt carrier, and if the unmodified selector is on auto then that 500 FPS DMR will fire auto

 

 

@weekenny, personally Id leave it decocked with selector on semi, less stress on the hammer spring

 

the reason its like that is it follows the fire controls of the real AR

 

 

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the uppers are close but not directly interchangeable you'ld need to mod an AGM upper a little

 

by looks of a test fit the problems are with alignment of the rear pin - it doesnt get down deep enough to pass thru the ACM receiver

 

you could

 

open up the hole in the rear tab of the AGM upper or

you could take material off the lower edges of the rear of the AGM upper to let it sit a little lower

 

second option would probably be best it'll ensure that the bolt carrier gets a straight path into the buffer tube

 

I wouldnt reccommend doing it the opposite way around (AGM lower and ACM upper) when you put the rear pin thru that combo the upper will be stood off in relation to the lower with a visible gap between the two

 

increase the top of the hole on the ACM upper rear tab and yes you'll get it to physically fit down snug against an AGM lower but there'll be nothing to hold it down in that position, and as a result you'ld get a lot of play between upper and lower.

 

GHK mags- the ACM lower will need material taken off of the inside of the magwell, Id advise leaving that till you decide wether or not you're happy with the guns performance running the stock magazine and 5ku mags (which the stock mag is identical too) carry out the mods on the lower to take GHK mags and the stock mag and 5kus will no longer be as tight a fit in the lower as they otherwise could be if you left it alone.

 

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What's the best way to leave this when storing it...

 

1) Cocked with the selector set to safe?

 

or

 

2) De-cocked with the trigger locked back?

 

Seems odd to me that it can only go to safe with the hammer cocked.

 

Cheers

 

Doesn't really matter, but if you want to relieve spring tension for storage, dry-fire the gun and store it with the hammer down. Having the selector set to fire doesn't do anything with the hammer down.

 

The reason you cannot engage the safety with the hammer down is that the hammer does not allow the trigger to return fully to its forward position, and therefore the selector cannot rotate to safe to block the trigger's movement.

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the uppers are close but not directly interchangeable you'ld need to mod an AGM upper a little

 

by looks of a test fit the problems are with alignment of the rear pin - it doesnt get down deep enough to pass thru the ACM receiver

 

you could

 

open up the hole in the rear tab of the AGM upper or

you could take material off the lower edges of the rear of the AGM upper to let it sit a little lower

 

second option would probably be best it'll ensure that the bolt carrier gets a straight path into the buffer tube

 

I wouldnt reccommend doing it the opposite way around (AGM lower and ACM upper) when you put the rear pin thru that combo the upper will be stood off in relation to the lower with a visible gap between the two

 

increase the top of the hole on the ACM upper rear tab and yes you'll get it to physically fit down snug against an AGM lower but there'll be nothing to hold it down in that position, and as a result you'ld get a lot of play between upper and lower.

 

GHK mags- the ACM lower will need material taken off of the inside of the magwell, Id advise leaving that till you decide wether or not you're happy with the guns performance running the stock magazine and 5ku mags (which the stock mag is identical too) carry out the mods on the lower to take GHK mags and the stock mag and 5kus will no longer be as tight a fit in the lower as they otherwise could be if you left it alone.

 

thanks buddy!

 

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Really need some help please.

 

I got the AGM when they first came out, as I wanted to try the new GBB experience.

 

However I got left with a sour taste, mostly about the mags, the one that came with my M4 failed on the first day, I then shelled out £100 for another 3 new AGM V2 which all leak like mad.

 

Which Mags should I get GHK?

 

Also the white part on my bolt cracked after a few shots or poss was shipped cracked, Will this part below fit, to allow me a straight swap?

 

http://www.ebairsoft.com/complete-bolt-car...ure-p-2624.html

 

Also I had the dripping BB problem, at the time a number of guys on here had spend shed loads on new hop up units that didn't fit or work. Is there one that does the job?

 

for example

 

http://www.ebairsoft.com/barrel-guide-barrel-p-2587.html

 

Does this work? As I really like Mad Bull v2 on all my AEG or will it be a waste of money.

 

 

Any help, would be great.

Edited by jonny2400
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@Jhonny2400

 

Some quick answers:

 

I bought this replacement hopup:

http://www.ebairsoft.com/aluminum-chamber-p-2300.html

 

It fixed all my problems of dripping BB's (just use the the leaver arm and the rubber, and also the barrel from the AGM).

 

 

to fix mags, all you really have to do, is take them apart, soak the o-rings in silicon oil, then reassemble the mags, and always store them with gas in them.

 

 

 

 

 

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