AGM M4 GBB

[Phuncz]

I asked WGCshop.com what RIS/RAS systems or handguards would work on the AGM and they recommended the G&P line. At the moment I'm thinking about three options:

 

G&P WA M16A2 Handguard Kit

 

Or:

 

G&P WA M4 RAS Front Set (Long)

 

Or:

 

G&P WA Defender Front Set

 

The first two have their own barrel nut and delta ring, so it should fit without a problem. But the handguard model seems to be the only option if you want to easily adjust hopup. The third one is the one I really want, but I have no idea how it would fit. Hmm still in doubt what to choose...

Edited December 17, 2009 by Phuncz

[tinydata]

The first two have their own barrel nut and delta ring, so it should fit without a problem. But the handguard model seems to be the only option if you want to easily adjust hopup. The third one is the one I really want, but I have no idea how it would fit. Hmm still in doubt what to choose...

 

I have a G&P M4 and the RIS isnt that hard to pull off the bottom. (KAC style)

[stirrat]

The 3rd option has its own special way to attatch onto the receiver, there should be instructions, but if not there will be people out there who know what to do..

[FearMeansControl]

I have a G&P M4 and the RIS isnt that hard to pull off the bottom. (KAC style)

 

I have a G&P RIS II and it's easy to take off the bottom, but getting it back on is an absolite fruitcage

[Clastyclay]

Sorry, if I ask again, but I can not find the posts about the way to silence the gun.

Is it possible or not? I have the idea, that it could silence if the ejecting port is covered combined with an effective silencer aswell.

[stirrat]

Sorry, if I ask again, but I can not find the posts about the way to silence the gun.

Is it possible or not? I have the idea, that it could silence if the ejecting port is covered combined with an effective silencer aswell.

 

You want to silence your GBBR?!, wrap it in a towel or get a springer then..

 

A silencer will do some noise reduction, but most of the noise comes from the bolt, so your gonna have a hard time reducing the noise from that, without covering it in foam!

[1st Commando]

to be honest the one reason I put a silencer on my GBB rifles is because they do sound quite similar as some real silenced rifles as they are.

You don't really have much chance of silencing them in terms of airsoft though due to the way tehy work.

Plus the bang is all part of the GBB experience and it scares the hell out of the enemy indoors

[weekenny]

Got a burst kit today fitted it but get safe, semi and nowt......... will need to investigate but my bolt broke the wee cir-clip came off the back and it got a mushed inside

 

 

[UrPeaceKeeper]

Got a burst kit today fitted it but get safe, semi and nowt......... will need to investigate but my bolt broke the wee cir-clip came off the back and it got a mushed inside

 

Which burst kit? The clone one or the RA-Tech one?

 

I will be installing the clone burst kit hopefully around christmas time... Christmas is slated to be a very interesting time... why you ask? Because for either I will be recieving my Harbor Freignt Mini Mill -OR- an ACM M4 GBB, with burst kit and the clone NPAS and some other goodies

Edited December 19, 2009 by UrPeaceKeeper

[raito]

Finally got my JDT BCG installed, before putting it in I cleaned it and sprayed the insides with some silicone spray, a lot of gunk was there, and sprayed some more to get the nozzle moving nicely, installed it and it works without any problem. I do plan on lightening it some time later, but for now it cycles ok on green gas, I dont use auto much anyway...

 

The odd thing I found is it doesnt make as much noise, "Bang" as my original standard BCG... anyone else experiencing this?

[weekenny]

Which burst kit? The clone one or the RA-Tech one?

 

The clone one. Need to have a look at how the sears are moving and see what's wrong.

[Bob The Great]

The clone one. Need to have a look at how the sears are moving and see what's wrong.

 

What exactly does it do when in burst mode? Does it just run auto until you release the trigger? If so, it could be that the selector is mis-aligned, and is not allowing the burst disconnector to engage. Alternately, the ratchet on the hammer may not be turning properly or the burst disconnector itself may be sized incorrectly and may not be catching the hook on the back of the hammer when it is supposed to.

[Hite]

Used my AGM M4 today in -4 c temps. Only got the one agm mag for it, but it perform brilliantly in the temps (single shot only and a wooly hat keeping the mag warm). But sadly now the mag leaks gas like a bugger, so will need to grease it up or something!

 

On a side note, has anyone used the 5ku aeg hop unit? is it worth getting etc?

[Ion]

Got my AGM. However, there is a lot of reciever wobble, anyone used the G&P locking pins and had sucess?

 

 

[Luis21]

Got my AGM. However, there is a lot of reciever wobble, anyone used the G&P locking pins and had sucess?

 

You can put something like an accuwedge at the rear of the lower receiver where the rear upper hole comes down.

 

-Luis

 

[raito]

I just cut some o-rings and glue it on the front tab, works and no wobble at all...

[weekenny]

What exactly does it do when in burst mode? Does it just run auto until you release the trigger? If so, it could be that the selector is mis-aligned, and is not allowing the burst disconnector to engage. Alternately, the ratchet on the hammer may not be turning properly or the burst disconnector itself may be sized incorrectly and may not be catching the hook on the back of the hammer when it is supposed to.

 

One shot then nothing even with repeated trigger pulls you need to flip the selector to semi then back to get another shot.

 

Think the hammer ratchet may be the problem as I cant see it moving round will need to investigate further.

[stirrat]

One shot then nothing even with repeated trigger pulls you need to flip the selector to semi then back to get another shot.

 

Think the hammer ratchet may be the problem as I cant see it moving round will need to investigate further.

 

 

I had this same exact problem, only problem is that i dunno what i did to fix it...........

 

I'll get back to you when i remember

[Bob The Great]

One shot then nothing even with repeated trigger pulls you need to flip the selector to semi then back to get another shot.

 

Think the hammer ratchet may be the problem as I cant see it moving round will need to investigate further.

 

The ratchet would not cause that issue. If the ratchet were free-wheeling, the gun would shoot in Auto rather than Burst.

 

Your auto sear is not releasing the hammer to fall for the second shot. If you used the same hammer and same auto sear without the rest of the burst kit (ie, convert back to Safe-Semi-Auto, but keep these two parts from the kit), I'll bet it would do the same thing in Auto.

 

The reason you have to flip the selector is that the hammer is still being held by the auto sear, despite the bolt being closed. Moving the selector to Semi rotates the auto sear out of the way and allows the hammer fall a short ways and be caught by the trigger, ready for another shot.

 

This could be caused by one of four things - out of spec hammer, out of spec auto sear, out of spec bolt carrier, or a bolt carrier that does not fully close for whatever reason. If your gun worked fine on Auto before the conversion, and if you are using the same auto sear and bolt carrier as you were then, I would suspect that the hammer is slightly too large.

 

Are you using an auto sear that came with the kit? Or is it your original one? If it's original, I wouldn't be surprised that it doesn't work with the new hammer, given the widely varying tolerances between different manufacturers (especially clones).

 

Another possibility: If you have ever closed the recievers together with the gun in Auto (and used some force to do it), your auto sear may have been bent, which could also cause this problem.

 

You can verify that this is what is happening by following these steps:

1. Unload the gun. This is a dry fire test.

2. Set the selector to burst.

3. Pull and hold the trigger and note the sound the hammer makes when it falls. You will need to continue to hold the trigger for the rest of these steps. Secure it with a zip-tie if you wish.

4. With the trigger still pulled, pull the charging handle all the way to the rear and hold it. You should hear a small click as the auto sear engages the hammer.

5. While looking through the ejection port, slowly return the bolt carrier forward, going very very slowly as the bolt approaches the feed ramp.

6. Listen closely during the last bit of travel. On a properly functioning rifle, just as the bolt stops moving, you should hear the same sound of the hammer falling as you heard before.

7. If you do not hear the hammer fall, push the bolt carrier forward with your thumb, through the ejection port, to verify that it is fully forward. Some recoil springs are very weak, and may not be able to push the bolt all the way forward without some momentum behind it.

8. If you miss the sound or aren't sure if it's what your heard, repeat steps 4-7 and listen again. Note: with the burst kit installed, you can only repeat the steps twice before you have to release the trigger to reset it.

 

If you don't hear the sound of the hammer falling, it means that the auto sear is still holding the hammer back, and if you release the trigger at that point, you will find that it is unresponsive, and you will have to move the selector back to Semi as you described.

 

Once you've verified that this is the issue, you need to do one more test to verify that the bolt carrier is closing fully when fired. The next time the gun does this when actually being fired, hold the trigger back, then reach around and push the bolt carrier forward with your thumb through the ejection port. If it moves, be ready for the gun to fire again as the auto sear trips! If it fires again, this means your fire control group is operating properly, but the issue is that your bolt carrier is not seating fully at the end of its travel. Look carefully for any obstructions or rough spots, or you can try a stronger recoil spring to fix it.

 

If none of this works, the most obvious fix is to replace the auto sear with one that works with your kit. I don't know where you'd find one, if the kit didn't come with it. You could try installing another standard auto sear if you have one, just in case its tolerances allow it to work.

 

You could also try to remove the ratcheting components from the burst hammer and install them on your old hammer. If the old hammer worked fine, it should still work fine with the ratchet installed.

 

Removing a small bit of material from the auto sear engagement area on the burst hammer may fix the issue. Be VERY CAREFUL not to remove too much material from the hammer or your gun will suffer hammer-follow problems.

 

You could try to carefuly bend the top flange of the auto sear towards the rear of the gun to cause it to engage a little sooner. It won't take much, so go slow. Alternately, you could bend the lower flange towards the rear of the gun to cause the sear to release the hammer sooner. I would not try this unless you have a spare auto sear or two laying around - it's possible to crack the sear if you bend it too much or go too far and have to bend it back. Also, this will mean you can't switch back to your old hammer without replacing the auto sear, or else the old hammer will be released too soon.

 

Run through those tests, and it should give you an idea of where the problem is.

Edited December 20, 2009 by Bob The Great

[Spencerman]

I have just purchased my second AGM M4, and have to say that the problems that I experienced with my first one have gone. I got the short snubby version this time instead of the full size jobbie, mainly because it chronos out of the box at 350 (ish) which is perfect for my needs. I would have liked a longer barrel, but that really is not necessary for what I want. It also doesnt suffer from the bb dribbling out of the end when you stop on full auto, so the hop unit must be miles better in some way.

 

I want to put a much longer front end on, and swap out the stock for a solid one, turning it pretty much into an M16ish looking gun. I was wondering whether the front ends for a WA would fit, as there is a nice one I like perfectly made by G&P for the WA M4. I also wondered about the solid stock if the WA ones fit? The stock will be later though, first thing is going to be the barrel, so if anyone knows if they fit I would be very greatful to know.

[Bob The Great]

I have just purchased my second AGM M4, and have to say that the problems that I experienced with my first one have gone. I got the short snubby version this time instead of the full size jobbie, mainly because it chronos out of the box at 350 (ish) which is perfect for my needs. I would have liked a longer barrel, but that really is not necessary for what I want. It also doesnt suffer from the bb dribbling out of the end when you stop on full auto, so the hop unit must be miles better in some way.

 

I want to put a much longer front end on, and swap out the stock for a solid one, turning it pretty much into an M16ish looking gun. I was wondering whether the front ends for a WA would fit, as there is a nice one I like perfectly made by G&P for the WA M4. I also wondered about the solid stock if the WA ones fit? The stock will be later though, first thing is going to be the barrel, so if anyone knows if they fit I would be very greatful to know.

 

The standard WA style barrels fit my AGM fine, you just may need to replace the barrel nut if yours is for the "thick" shouldered barrels. The stock tubes use a unique thread though, so I don't think you can switch it out to a fixed stock.

[1st Commando]

I used my AGM M4 today for the first time .

 

After under 200 rounds (it was preowned) the nozzle unit shattered!

 

Anyone have any idea if the Element EX105 High power nozzle will work ok and will it be compatible with the Npas from my old nozzle ?

 

Cheers

[stirrat]

I used my AGM M4 today for the first time .

 

After under 200 rounds (it was preowned) the nozzle unit shattered!

 

Anyone have any idea if the Element EX105 High power nozzle will work ok and will it be compatible with the Npas from my old nozzle ?

 

Cheers

 

 

It will be compatible as everything is made to the same spec, element just copied wa spec so it should fit.

 

But your better off getting Ra Tech's new plastic nozzle, quality is just so much better than this clone ###### that keeps breaking!

 

 

As for weekenny's problem, i'm pretty sure its the way you have installed the burst kit, something is not alligned properly so it wont work.

 

Try take it apart and assembly it again. Its kinda hard to describe, but i'm sure its got something to do with the way you install the pins

[vilerk]

I used my AGM M4 today for the first time .

 

After under 200 rounds (it was preowned) the nozzle unit shattered!

 

Anyone have any idea if the Element EX105 High power nozzle will work ok and will it be compatible with the Npas from my old nozzle ?

 

Cheers

 

NO, don't get the Element. It works, but it will break quickly just like the AGM. I got the Energy one, which is made of a better quality plastic than the Element. It fits perfectly with my 5KU NPAS.

[tinydata]

My vote goes with the 2Roy POM nozzle. Its $30 and pretty reliable. It survived a couple hundred in my AGM and has survived way more in my G&P. All on green gas with a NPAS set to 330 fps.

 

It wore a little bit the first 100 rounds but hasn't worn down ANY more.