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Ok, I have another question if someone knows the answer. I read earlier (much earlier) in the thread about the hop units, as the early ones did nothing, and there was mention of a replacement hop unit that allowed the use of an aeg barrel. I was wondering, as my original model still has the crappy hop unit if it might be worth me changing it over to this one and using a tightbore barrel with it, if it is any good and if it will work.

 

The one that I was looking at is this one, http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/5ku-aeg-barrel-...-m4-series.html which isnt too expensive, and I am going to be ordering other stuff anyway, so I was thinking of adding it to my order, unless anyone can confirm if they are no good and which one to go for instead?

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So after 6 months of ownership, I've decided that I'm now man enough to break the epoxy bond that I used to eliminate barrel wobble so I could install one of the fancy rear adjust hopups that Luis21 likes so much.

 

Only problem is that I haven't a clue on how to assemble this silly hopup: http://www.rsov.com/index.php?target=produ...product_id=3936

 

I also got two of the big springs from them, one having a good amount less resistance than the other. Any ideas on how to put this all together?

 

EDIT: Wow, I should've read all the posts since I last came before I just run and post about the same hop that the poster before me is asking about :)

 

@Spencerman: I haven't got it installed yet, but it looks to be a well built piece of hardware.. I'm having trouble understanding how it's meant to adjust once in the gun though.. There's no dial type of mechanism, but rather seems to push down on the hop nub by a ramp pushing up on the hop lever. I'm not quite sure how we're to adjust the position of this ramp though :|

Edited by FearMeansControl
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Apologies in advance if my question has already been answered (I know it has) but I don’t have the time/am to lazy to read through the whole thread.

 

Basically I recently picked up an AGM M4 second hand. Everything seems great but the fps is higher than I was expecting. The last owner said it did about 350fps on green but its chrono’ing at more like 400+fps.

 

My knowledge of gbb is limited and im totally new to gbbr’s.

 

Would appreciate it someone could enlighten me as how to lower the power (by bodging or with aftermarket parts). Either through posting links or letting me know what pages of this thread are most relevant.

 

thanks

 

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Aye, I came up with a shimming fix; basically make sure the flute valve is set to be a negative pressure one, and glue shims behind it so it sits further forward; same basic principle that the NPAS works on.

 

TBH, it's a moot thing to do nowadays with the clone NPAS; It's fine as a stopgap, but I wouldn't recommend it as a long-term solution when an adjustable version is around for less than twenty bucks.

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Got a new alu nozzler tip for my RAT NPAS bolt, the plastic one had got smushed down on one side. Don't fancy just going at it with tools before I know what I'm actually doing though, is it just on a normal screw thread? Screw out old one and screw in new one?

 

R.e. the guys asking about the AEG/Rear adjust hop-unit, I've got the original Prime version and it's definitely hard to understand so I can empathise. I won't even attempt to explain how to do it in writing unless it really comes to that because I'd wear out the keyboard and it probably wouldn't even make any sense. Will try to get some pictures of mine later on.

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Aye, I came up with a shimming fix; basically make sure the flute valve is set to be a negative pressure one, and glue shims behind it so it sits further forward; same basic principle that the NPAS works on.

 

Did this today and managed to bring the fps down to 360fps at room temp which I'm happy with for now. Thanks for the tip.

 

So all is well except for my hammer pin snapping in two during testing. So that's another thing to add to the shopping list.

 

Oh well, no one said this GBBR lark would be cheap.

Edited by Evert 72
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Heh, glad to hear it's a useful fix :) One of my pins snapped in two as well, so I just got a set of Chinese anti-rotation pins. They look pimp and it saves me from losing the pins in-game (a worry of mine). I'd just get them from RSOV with other small bits; if it's under 1kg then you can do post office shipping. I ended up getting a steal sear, AR pins, 416 style pistol grip, and new alu buffer & spring over the summer, and the shipping cost me a whopping six USD, and took less than a wee to arrive.

 

I must say, the GBB lark DOES look cheap if you get a KJW.... It's more expensive initially (by a fair whack, tbh), but the only things that appear to break can be fixed with bits from t_hum for not a lot of dosh... And he's working on mags that go into STANG/PMAG shells...

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4208809760_bbd4eea908_b.jpg

 

ACM m4a1 (ris verson)

Pro&T PWS front kit

Pro&T ASAP plate, Element ambi charging handle latch, G&P storm pistol grip.

 

I have mixed feelings about the ACM, while the hop seems to work fine (something that has been causing problems with the AGM) the finish isn't great, the takedown pins are very stubborn, there is a fair bit of body wobble (although shiming out the hinge at the front would prob. solve that easily). Also, my element Voltor BGG wont fit without encouragement, so that will need to be dremeled down a bit.

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Ok, the basic instruction leaflet that came with my Prime AEG/Rear adjust hop unit, have left it large deliberately:

 

dsc00213jv.jpg

 

My apologies for the phone camera. For now that will hopefully be enough to give a few people at least a basic idea of how to go about constructing the thing, any further issues arise then post 'em up and I'll try my best to help out.

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Would this RIS work on the ACM M4?

 

Also, when I pull back the bolt on my gun, the hop up wheel moves towards the delta ring like 1/3 of a centimeter. Would this cause anything bad to happen? My magazine is shot, so I really can't test it out.

 

Colazel:

You can buy GHK magazines from RA-Tech.

 

Also, are GHK magazines compatible with the RA-Tech mag rubbers?

Edited by vilerk
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Ok, the basic instruction leaflet that came with my Prime AEG/Rear adjust hop unit, have left it large deliberately:

 

My apologies for the phone camera. For now that will hopefully be enough to give a few people at least a basic idea of how to go about constructing the thing, any further issues arise then post 'em up and I'll try my best to help out.

 

Thanks, that's really appreciated :D I got the thing assembled and in my gun minus the tiny set screw provided (which I assumed was to provide adjustment), as it didn't fit in what I figured to be the spot for adjustment..

 

It looks like its telling you to adjust the hopup via a notch in the feed ramp, is this correct?

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@Vilerk: You need to eliminate the hop-up chamber movement ASAP. Place a spring or a sapcer in front of it so that it doesn't move forward.

 

This will cause inconsistent performance since the loading nozzle is sealing with the hop-up unit differently everytime.

 

@FearMeansControl: Yes, you adjust the hop-up grub screw with a small hex-wrench through the 6 o'clock position on the barrel extension feed ramps.

 

I just ordered a bunch of Element upgrade parts and will do a mini review on them as soon as they arrive. :D

 

-Luis

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3 rnd burst update - the problem seems to be that the selector tolerances are too tight and when in burst mode it's meant to push one sear out the way allowing the burst sear only to engage but the notch is too wide and it not only pushes the sear down but also the back edge of the trigger mechanism jamming it.

 

I'll file down the notch a little and take some pictures and update when my new nozzle arrives. :)

 

 

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