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Thanks, that's really appreciated :D I got the thing assembled and in my gun minus the tiny set screw provided (which I assumed was to provide adjustment), as it didn't fit in what I figured to be the spot for adjustment..

 

It looks like its telling you to adjust the hopup via a notch in the feed ramp, is this correct?

 

That small screw (should have a hex head at one end) should screw in to the hole at the 6 o/clock of the unit, but it goes in the opposite end to where you'd adjust it if you see what I mean. Then the spigot on the small O piece that slides on to the inner barrel goes in to that same hole at the 6 o/clock, and when you turn that small screw in and out it moves said piece back and forward, which in turn moves the arm above the hop nub up and down.

 

It's a bugger to explain as you can tell.. I'll get a picture.

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I've ordered an element nozzle to get me back up and running fingers crossed it lasts :D

 

Uh, don't the element nozzles have a reputation for being rubbish and shattering easily?

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No problem man.

 

The Element nozzles are pretty good. I've bought 3 over time for several projects.

 

They're only $6 with free shipping from RSOV too so order up! :D

 

-Luis

I agree, only thing I would say is you need to sand portion of the nozzle from the injection spot.

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thats disappointing. looks like i'll have to invest in a metal one. thanks, bro.

 

Uh, why?

 

Metal isn't infinitely superior to plastic in every possible situation, you know. In many, MANY cases, plastic is VASTLY preferable. I'd argue that the nozzle for a GBB is one of those many occasions.

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Uh, why?

 

Metal isn't infinitely superior to plastic in every possible situation, you know. In many, MANY cases, plastic is VASTLY preferable. I'd argue that the nozzle for a GBB is one of those many occasions.

 

Ok, thanks for the advice. My knowledge of airsoft gun's internals is pretty minimal. I just assumed that in terms of durability it would last longer, but i guess not (i need to do more reading into it). does plastic deal with the cooling due to the gas better than metal?

 

Anyone know what the deal is with the shortage of chinese-made rifles?

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Ok, thanks for the advice. My knowledge of airsoft gun's internals is pretty minimal. I just assumed that in terms of durability it would last longer, but i guess not (i need to do more reading into it). does plastic deal with the cooling due to the gas better than metal?

 

Anyone know what the deal is with the shortage of chinese-made rifles?

 

Chinese factories just got raided recently. The AGM M4 is out of stock everywhere except for EBairsoft.

 

In this case, unless you want to buy nozzles every 2000-4000 rounds, buy an aluminum nozzle if using green gas or propane. Trust me.

 

-Luis

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Chinese factories just got raided recently. The AGM M4 is out of stock everywhere except for EBairsoft.

 

In this case, unless you want to buy nozzles every 2000-4000 rounds, buy an aluminum nozzle if using green gas or propane. Trust me.

 

-Luis

 

ah ok, thats a bummer. Actually im really bummed that the gun is $100-$130 and the shipping is no less than $70. EBairsoft has it shipped for $182.

 

alright, thanks for the input.

 

EDIT: Luis--I PMed you.

Edited by Zman
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My Chinese bolt catch just snapped off and went flying through the air. The button part on the outside of the gun. Just regular fire. I had just changed the bolt carrier from the stock AGM, but I don't think that has anything to do with it. I had just hit the catch right before it broke and started fireing, then it snapped and flew through the air, but I didn't think I hit it hard enough to snap it.

 

Anyone have any ideas as to why this happened? Maybe it had taken too much of a beating. It was an older bolt catch, and the part that touches the carrier was really worn out (but still worked) so I'm guessing it just wore out.

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My Chinese bolt catch just snapped off and went flying through the air. The button part on the outside of the gun. Just regular fire. I had just changed the bolt carrier from the stock AGM, but I don't think that has anything to do with it. I had just hit the catch right before it broke and started fireing, then it snapped and flew through the air, but I didn't think I hit it hard enough to snap it.

 

Anyone have any ideas as to why this happened? Maybe it had taken too much of a beating. It was an older bolt catch, and the part that touches the carrier was really worn out (but still worked) so I'm guessing it just wore out.

 

Pot metal (I'm assuming you weren't using a steel catch?) isn't exactly the strongest thing around and has a tendency to break after a while ;)

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Pot metal (I'm assuming you weren't using a steel catch?) isn't exactly the strongest thing around and has a tendency to break after a while ;)

Yeah, I just wanted to make sure I guess. I forgot to specify it was pot metal. Haha. I just found it weird it would all of a sudden break, but I guess thats pot metal for ya.

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Yeah, if it was a stock AGM bolt stop then I wouldn't be surprised at all.

 

My stock one broke when I simply inserted the stock magazine and I didn't even tap it in or anything. I just inserted it and locked it in.

 

I had fired less than 500 rounds. Those stock bolt stops are pretty horrible....

 

-Luis

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ACM M4 GBB stock bolt stop is steel :D

 

I was disassembling my GHK magazine to solve my feeding problem caused by some imperfections in the magazine lips when I realized something interesting.

 

All GBB and NBB valves I have see open inwards the gas deposit, this helps keeping it closed for no leaking. But the GHK magazine valve open outwards so the gas pressure try to open the valve. If there is too much pressure, I imagine that the valve will open. I have see in the videos that this magazines doesn't leak with CO2 so, could this little thing allow the valve open when there is too much pressure avoiding that the magazine break if the pressure is too high?

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